When you close your liftgate, is the center of the glass bowed out? If so, it would be higher than the Top Glass and not flush.
Did the SC adjust your liftgate and left those markings on the painted screws?
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Ear pain/Pressure help
- Thread starter justobuf
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- sound proofing
Did the SC adjust your liftgate and left those markings on the painted screws?
My issues started after top glass replacement after 3 months of ownership. I have a feeling this is caused due bad fitting of glasses either top or back.
I've measured the same thing compared to my model 3. Peak frequency in Model 3 was up near 50 Hz or so, while it was in the mid 30s for Model Y. I sense it as pressure waves over road imperfections. Think it's a combo of the vehicle shape, glass roof, and stiffness or the body and suspension. I'm curious if the new 4680 structural pack cars suffer the same issue, or if there are enough changes to affect the resonance of the vehicle.
Honestly, I bought the Y mostly for the supercharger network. Once there are reliable and redundant CCS charging options to the places I travel, I think there are better options for the money, even ignoring this issue. I will be offloading the Y earlier than expected due to the issue.
ZenRockGarden
Active Member
I have just performed the clear tubing hatch-seal-fluffing operation to my '22 MY, and I'm rather pleased with the results.
I was getting a few rattles and other sounds from the rear sector of the car when driving over bumpy pavement, detracting from the otherwise magic-carpet effortless glide which mostly characterizes the MY's driving experience.
The above video is outstanding, and using the details in there I was able to acquire the appropriate clear tubing, and with a bit of windex for lube I got it snaked in there rather easily.
One suggestion based on my experience: I found 3 pieces were ideal for the install. The seal doesn't go "thru" at top center, so I was able to work from chest-high on each side of the car, run one segment across the entire bottom of the seal and up to chest-high on the opposite side, and then one piece each going upward from each side to the center of the top where it doesn't go thru. In a perfect world you could start at the top and go clear round with one run, but the physics of friction and tube-pushability seemed to max out at "about half way", hence my three-piece solution. This also has you working the tube-snake operation at a pleasant position on the car vs trying to shove it in while hunched under the top-center of the hatch.
Post install, I of course had to lengthen the bump stops. The hatch-closing sounds seem to convey greater labor getting the hatch snugged closed but once closed the rear sector of the car sounds more solid, rattle free, and maybe a bit less boomy. It does not change the car into a Lexus, but it's a noticeable upgrade that's dirt cheap and easy to perform.
Thank you @ilovecoffee for sharing the knowledge and idea.
I got in my second parcel shelf. The first one was the ModelYShelf.2, the new one is the Aliexpress shelf that comes with the moulding. That one seals much better. I am now using both, which is a bit of overkill, but I feel the volume is further reduced.
Also, my hatch has finally settled and now closes without having to push it down manually. And lastly, after 4000km on the odometer since I got the car, it seems to be in general a bit quieter and the suspension seems to have settled a bit.
Also, my hatch has finally settled and now closes without having to push it down manually. And lastly, after 4000km on the odometer since I got the car, it seems to be in general a bit quieter and the suspension seems to have settled a bit.
ilovecoffee
Member
Pretty sure it is the same one that's on Amazon (because that's also from China).
Which I posted about several pages back (there was an error in my review about it not being able to flap open easily, that was just because I didn't push it in properly).
It works really well in terms of sound isolation, it actually comes in handy sometimes because I've put things on top from a Costco run or whatever.
@ilovecoffee : Thank you for your posts and instructions. I got tired of the ear pressure and did the clear vinyl tubing with OD 5/16" this weekend and readjusted the flexible hatch stops. My hatch trunk closes just fine but opens with a loud POP that was quite noticeable. This is expected given the additional stiff tubing I put in pushing out against the hatch trunk right?
Overall there is a substantial decrease in low frequency rumbling and pressure to where it is enjoyable again. I'm now contemplating the additional butyl sound deadening for the rear wheel wells as shown in your video. What percentage gain in noise reduction can we expect by doing the butyl mat on top of vinyl tubing + hatch stop adjustment? The vinyl tubing was dead simple, but I'm pondering if the butyl rear wheel well sound deadening might take a lot more effort (the 80/20 rule) to make it worth while.
ZenRockGarden
Active Member
ilovecoffee
Member
If I had to give it a rating in relation to the vinyl tubing, I'd say it's about 40% as noticeable.
I consider most road noise transmittance from tires/suspension in the low range but of course it's not nearly as low as the resonance from the hatch door. IMHO it has an effect on booming noise. Just throwing a number out there I'd bet this tackles the 100hz to 150hz range.
The parcel shelf is also an easy addition to lowering overall noise (but more expensive and lesser results).
Hmmmm… are NEW vehicles coming out with these issues still? have there been reports of vehicles delivered in the past 1-4 months that are still causing sound/ear problems? As someone sensitive to pressure changes, I’m getting nervous with my delivery approaching.
I took delivery less than 4 weeks ago and I have low frequency booming.
ElectricAnt54
Active Member
If the FUD has gotten to you, consider buying a used Tesla. You’d get to test drive the exact car you would buy. Sometimes (not always) when I go to my local tesla showroom they offer to sell me a demo model. Hopefully you have test driven a model y already too. I took test drives at showrooms and rented a MYLR and MYP before ordering.
fyi, my pal got a jeep brand suv and complained to me about that car’s low frequency booms
.@ilovecoffee
Is the Kilmat 80mm at 18 sq ft sufficient to cover the rear wheel wells for this application? I watched your video and I just want to do the most affected areas and not the entire rear trunk.
ZenRockGarden
Active Member
It's more of design challenge and hatch-alignment issue than some kind of narrow specific bug that needs fixing.
The MY has a big rear hatch that can become a resonator if not tightly secured. The car is otherwise very well sealed in part for the Bioweapons-Defense-Mode feature. In some cases, for some humans, the result can be a sense of ear pressure.
Best fix is the clear-tubing and hatch-stop align tactic. But lots of people don't find a problem at all, and MOST cars with big rear hatches are vulnerable to more rear noise compared to their sedan counterparts.
