Electrical genius required?

[SageBrush]

Your second point is why I ask the OP to try the Tesla at 31, 30, 29, etc and see when the gates come back to life, not just down to 16. That could help understand why only the Tesla(s) are causing this.

OP wrote in another post that anything over 16 Amps to the Tesla results in gate problems.

Regarding a feeder ... that is why I asked for a wire drawing. Although OP did say that the second branch circuit is from the main panel.

 

[LiamPope]

OP wrote in another post that anything over 16 Amps to the Tesla results in gate problems

Oh missed that. Makes no sense at all then! lol!

 

[MrT3]

But if we have volt drop external to the installation - i.e. undersized/too long supply feeder, then a high draw on any circuit in the installation could drop the voltage for the whole installation. Possibly that's what is happening.

That, or just a loose connection at the meter/consumer unit.

 

[MrBadger]

OP wrote in another post that anything over 16 Amps to the Tesla results in gate problems.

Iirc they only said they tried 16 and less and 32A - not mentioned anything in between.

@MrBadger does Teslafi record the voltage throughout the charging period? Like this Teslamate graph:
View attachment 901638

Yes

 

[GPDP]

Does your BMW have this option?

View attachment 901656

I wonder if it is limiting the current even if set to 32Amps.

I have the charge limit for AC charging set to unrestricted.

 

[GPDP]

I have come to the conclusion that the issue is caused by the Tesla, at least I cannot see any other sensible explanation.

I plugged the BMW in, charged it at 32 amps, which the Hypervolt app confirmed at 31 amps.... the gates worked fine.
I swapped the charging lead over to the Tesla and the gates wouldn't work, I reduce the current down by 2 amps at a time until I got the gates working, which was down to 16 amps.
I then decided to do a few more tests, so I turned on an electric shower in the house, the shower is off it's only supply via 40 amp breaker, the smart meter said I was drawing 9.5Kw, went outside and gates work fine.
Then I decided to leave the shower running and plug the BMW into the Hypervolt at 32 amps.... I let it charge a few minutes to get up to the 32 amps, which was confirmed by the Hypervolt app.... the gates work fine.
End result (as far as I can see) is the Tesla is at fault.

 

[Jason71]

I have come to the conclusion that the issue is caused by the Tesla, at least I cannot see any other sensible explanation.

I plugged the BMW in, charged it at 32 amps, which the Hypervolt app confirmed at 31 amps.... the gates worked fine.
I swapped the charging lead over to the Tesla and the gates wouldn't work, I reduce the current down by 2 amps at a time until I got the gates working, which was down to 16 amps.
I then decided to do a few more tests, so I turned on an electric shower in the house, the shower is off it's only supply via 40 amp breaker, the smart meter said I was drawing 9.5Kw, went outside and gates work fine.
Then I decided to leave the shower running and plug the BMW into the Hypervolt at 32 amps.... I let it charge a few minutes to get up to the 32 amps, which was confirmed by the Hypervolt app.... the gates work fine.
End result (as far as I can see) is the Tesla is at fault.

I missed a page or two of this. I know you ruled out the Tesla interfering with the signal to the gates since when you press the wireless remote the gates start to open then stop but have we considered the ( highly unlikely) possibility of the Tesla generating some sort of RF interference that is telling the gates to stop.
i.e. they are stopping because they think they have been told to rather than due to some power issue?
I know it only happens when the current is >16amp but presumably any interference would also be proportional to the current.
if you had not already dismissed four pages of more sensible ideas I would not be suggesting this but you know what they say "when you have eliminated the impossible............"

 

[GPDP]

I missed a page or two of this. I know you ruled out the Tesla interfering with the signal to the gates since when you press the wireless remote the gates start to open then stop but have we considered the ( highly unlikely) possibility of the Tesla generating some sort of RF interference that is telling the gates to stop.
i.e. they are stopping because they think they have been told to rather than due to some power issue?
I know it only happens when the current is >16amp but presumably any interference would also be proportional to the current.
if you had not already dismissed four pages of more sensible ideas I would not be suggesting this but you know what they say "when you have eliminated the impossible............"

I know nothing about RF interference, but presumably the interference would need to be at the gate control panel / antenna which is around 40 metres from where the car is parked?

 

[Tony Hoyle]

You can get RF transmitted across the mains supply, which is after all just a long antenna.. not normally so much on a different circuit.

 

[srichards]

Know anyone with a Zoe? They charge at the full 32 amps and cause masses of interference if my home electrics were anything to go by.

 

[GPDP]

I don't know any Zoe's lol... how would I test for or work out if RF interference is the cause?

 

[power.saver]

I don't know any Zoe's lol... how would I test for or work out if RF interference is the cause?

RF is unlikely the cause because you said the gate starts to move, then stops. It is really most likely a voltage sag at the gate when it starts to move that causes it to shutdown.

 

[init6]

I don't know any Zoe's lol... how would I test for or work out if RF interference is the cause?

Where are you standing when you use the controller? try to get as far away from the car and as close to the gates as possible. Depending on the freq of the controller try to put your body between the controller and the car.

 

[GlynG]

Time i think to get a sparky in. Do have one last ditch idea, is it possible to get a length of cable, a reel of 2.5 cable fit a 13 amp plug on one end, roll it out above ground and wire it into the gates and just try it that way - this will be another check to confirm or exclude the underground cable before you pay to have a sparky in

 

[GPDP]

Where are you standing when you use the controller? try to get as far away from the car and as close to the gates as possible. Depending on the freq of the controller try to put your body between the controller and the car.

The issue happens even when coming home, using the controller on the outside of the gates far from the charging car.

 

[GPDP]

Time i think to get a sparky in. Do have one last ditch idea, is it possible to get a length of cable, a reel of 2.5 cable fit a 13 amp plug on one end, roll it out above ground and wire it into the gates and just try it that way - this will be another check to confirm or exclude the underground cable before you pay to have a sparky in

Sounds like an excellent idea.... I wouldn't have a drum of 2.5mm cable, but I do have a long extension lead and could make up a short cable length for it... sounds like a plan for a warm day.

 

[Sean.]

I have come to the conclusion that the issue is caused by the Tesla, at least I cannot see any other sensible explanation.

I plugged the BMW in, charged it at 32 amps, which the Hypervolt app confirmed at 31 amps.... the gates worked fine.
I swapped the charging lead over to the Tesla and the gates wouldn't work, I reduce the current down by 2 amps at a time until I got the gates working, which was down to 16 amps.
I then decided to do a few more tests, so I turned on an electric shower in the house, the shower is off it's only supply via 40 amp breaker, the smart meter said I was drawing 9.5Kw, went outside and gates work fine.
Then I decided to leave the shower running and plug the BMW into the Hypervolt at 32 amps.... I let it charge a few minutes to get up to the 32 amps, which was confirmed by the Hypervolt app.... the gates work fine.
End result (as far as I can see) is the Tesla is at fault.

Did you check the voltage at the actual gate though - (a) while your pulling charge (gate inactive) as said above and (b) then when you drop the gate motor into operation and start pulling some current along that long cable run…

The first thing a competent spark will test when you get them out.

Good luck.

 

[SageBrush]

The first thing a competent spark will test when you get them out.

After a good inspection of the connections to the motor and the motor itself, and the RCD, I would build a matrix of Amps and Voltages at the motor with no charging, Tesla at each EVSE, and BMW at each EVSE.

A clear wiring diagram would sure help. It would also be very cool to know the required torque to swing the gate and the max torque of the motor.

 

[LiamPope]

Surely we can put volt drop to bed now we know the gates work fine with a BMW charging at 32 A on either charger and a 9.5 kW shower running, but they don't work with just a Tesla charging 16 A on a separate final circuit? Even though it sure seems like stalling due to volt drop! I dunno. Now gotta be something wierd like RF, DC, some monitoring or communication the Tesla might be injecting, some weird degredation of the gate cable... really strange! Trying an alternative cable to the gate is a good idea.

Op do you have an oscilloscope?

 

[init6]

We could put voltage drop to bed if we saw the Teslafi voltage graph as suggested above.