green1
Active Member
So Tesla's solution, to my understanding, is that you can press the unlock button on the fob an extra time, that part is just like your german cars, pretty much any of the other solutions involve new hardware.
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
BertL
Active Member
I would think so. The Japanese and German FOBs with both a lock and unlock button provide more flexibility than the single button Tesla has chosen to provide.
green1
Active Member
And yet Tesla has managed to do the exact same thing with it's single buttons in this case as the German cars do with 2.
My comment about more hardware was the touching above the handle and the unlock button on the arm-rest. Tesla already has the fob thing the same as everyone else.
JenniferQ
Active Member
Has anyone else noticed that it seems to be much easier to engage Hill Hold after the update? I don't know if it's my imagination or not. I feel like I used to really have to mash on the brake pedal at a light to engage it, but it seems to engage much easier now. Could be my imagination...
dirkhh
Middle-aged Member
Compared to 6.2 hill hold in 7.1 is definitely one of the highlights. Works perfectly and intuitively for me.
And having the little icon on the IC is one of the few real UI improvements to me.
And having the little icon on the IC is one of the few real UI improvements to me.
mrElbe
Active Member
Many of the false speed limit problems are due to the fallback to use the Navteq database speed limits when unable to read a sign or when a sign is lacking. If they would update the over 3 year old Navigon / Garmin maps, then the limits in the data base would be more current.
BertL
Active Member
Design is an interesting and many times subjective thing when it comes to choices and how it meets different needs for different people. Owners and perhaps occasional drivers of a vehicle can decide which implementation is simpler or best in the spur of the moment to remember how many times to click which button (if one is provided).
I personally am fine with either since I'll likely never use Driver Mode, as I do not generally have security concerns with someone jumping into my passenger side as I'm opening the driver's door, nor do I care that multiple handles present as I approach, nor do I desire a separate panic button as some Owner's may. (Yes, someone could honk their MS horn via the iPhone/Android App, but not set off a recurring honk/light combination alarm via the MS FOB as most "everyone else" has offered on their FOBs for years.
).Agree that I don't seem to have to push quite as hard and far with 7.1 to engage it now, as I did with 6.2 or even 7.0. I also use this all the time now that it's as good as my previous MBZ had, but am still overly annoyed with the ((H)) icon completely hidden by the steering wheel with the 7.x UI. If you're ever in my MS or behind me, you'll see me doing my neck craning exercises looking under the steering wheel every time I apply Hill Assist, to ensure it's on before letting up on the brake.
My previous car had a button on the door handle. Press it once and the drivers door unlocks, press it twice and all the doors unlock.
- - - Updated - - -
Haven't noticed. Though I think the buzzing is gone from the hillhold in 7.0
Chasedrgc1223
Nearly Insane
I'm glad someone mentioned the buzzing, as my car has had it from 7.0 and no one has mentioned anything. Recently, the SC looked into it and found nothing abnormal, but stated I had the "old style brake fluid" and they gave me the new one. The buzzing went down significantly, but this may have been due to getting updated from 2.7.56 to 2.9.40 at the service center. After 7.1, I can't really be certain it fixed it, but I'll be listening for it now. Anyone know what caused it??
beeeerock
Active Member
Was this a really quiet sound that almost gave the impression of a delicate metal/foil damper being rattled? Likely sensed to be coming from the front left area? I had that sort of sound and haven't noticed it since 7.1. Prior to that, it would appear during hill hold (foot off the brake) and on some occasions when I began to back up. I had a technician listen to it and he thought it was electrical noise being introduced into the sound system. I wasn't convinced, but he suggested an update might solve it... which it may have done... whatever it was.
But... I'm curious... are we talking about the same thing?
Cyclone
Cyclonic Member ((.oO))
My mother's Lexus works as follows:
1. Have keyfob but do not use its buttons and keyfob up to driver door
-- Pull driver door handle or press the button on the handle and only the driver door unlocks
-- The button or door handles on any other door are ignored
-- Can unlock other doors by pressing unlock in the car or unlock on the keyfob
2. Have keyfob but do not use its buttons and keyfob up to any door other than driver's
-- Puling the driver door handle or pressing the button on the handle is ignored
-- Pulling the door handle or pressing the button where the keyfob is unlocks all 4 doors
3. Press unlock on the keyfob
-- First press unlocks driver door only
-- 2nd press (shortly after first) unlocks all doors
green1
Active Member
Cyclone
Cyclonic Member ((.oO))
Correct. Which is why I ended up turning driver mode back to all. I have gotten used to never using the fob, so I wasn't going back to it. And given that all the controls are towards the center of the car, I was getting in the car before the passenger and it caused too much grief. If #2 were there or I could tap the driver door handle after its extended to then unlock/extend the other 3 doors, I would turn it back to driver mode.
dhanson865
Well-Known Member
For those with 12v issues I'd strongly recommend you grab a CTEK 4.3 amp smart charger and learn how to access the 12v jump posts behind the nosecone. Amazon.com: CTEK (56-864) MUS 4.3 12 Volt Fully Automatic 8 Step Battery Charger: Automotive
Charging your 12v manually a few times a year might keep you from missing an over the air update and having to visit a service center.
green1
Active Member
For those with 12v issues, I'd strongly recommend getting the 12v issues fixed...
dhanson865
Well-Known Member
Toyota Prius
Nissan Leaf
Tesla Model S
all have the same issue where they have vampire loads and the 12v has to be working to turn the car on before the main pack and inverter come on line. It's been an issue for over a decade if it were so easy to fix don't you think one or all of them would have done so already?
The bix fix as an end user far as I'm concerned is using an external charger anytime the 12v battery gets low and charging back to full. The car itself doesn't do this under most in town or short to medium commute style driving habits. Only the super high mileage drivers get enough 12v charging from the cars inverter.
You can replace the 12v battery but that just starts the cycle over again assuming you use another AGM battery. It'll happen again on the new battery too.
They could change the charging profile for the 12v battery and have the inverter charge more aggressively but that has its drawbacks and will cause earlier failures in some cases.
They could change the size and or style battery.
* Larger AGM would have more buffer, see less depth of discharge and/or less cycles at the cost of increased weight and a higher price but would allow the inverter to charge more aggressively.
* Moving to LiFePo or some other lithium ion chemistry would be more expensive but would save weight and allow for much more intelligent charging profiles.
* Going to a dual 12v battery setup with one primary and one secondary would give redundancy for important processes but would add complexity and cost. Never been a good idea overall, people have tried that and always gone back to a single 12v.
Would you like to give something more constructive than a one line response with real suggestions on how Tesla or an end user can fix this?
Last edited:
green1
Active Member
You said "for those with 12v issues" implying it wasn't every car. If it isn't every car, then the ones who have the issue should get Tesla to fix it. I'm not going to get in to an argument here over whether or not the design is prone to problems, the point is that if your 12v system isn't healthy, keeping a battery charger on it "manually a few times a year" is not the right solution, nor likely very effective.
CuriousG
Active Member
If your preventative measures is what fixes the 12V battery issue, why is Tesla replacing the battery rather than just charge it once it arrives at the SC?
dhanson865
Well-Known Member
a smart charger like the CTEK desulphates as it charges but that won't do any good if the battery is severely discharged or damaged in any way.
12v lead acid batteries don't like to be taken down to low state of charge. It causes the sulfation to start or can put a cell into a state where it won't accept a charge (dead cell).
By the time you take it to the service center the best thing for them to do is put a fresh battery in.
But after you get that fresh battery if you want to keep it for a few years and not be replacing it repeatedly you will want to charge it in addition to what the car does. The higher average charge level the longer your 12v lead acid battery will last.
Think of it like a heart attack vs surgery vs diet and exercise. The Doctor/service center will do a heart bypass/replace the 12v because that is the emergency fix. The diet/charging can prevent the heart attack/12v failure and prevent having to go in for the surgery. But you'll have to maintain the 12v with the charger as a preventative as often as needed and that will vary based on your driving and idle periods which is the comparative to exercise.
- - - Updated - - -
For those with 12v issues means it is based on the driver/owners habits not just on the car. There is nothing Tesla or any other car company can do to prevent all 12v battery failures but just yelling "fix it" sure as heck isn't going to get it fixed.
You have to address the root cause or you'll just be replacing 12v batteries every 6 to 18 months.
Maybe you should read Near annual replacement of 12V battery is typical according to Tesla Service Tech and think about it before dismissing my knowledge and experience as incorrect.
Or maybe 12v battery died 250 miles from SC making me pay for 150 mile towing is another angle to consider.
If your car is under warranty and you live really close to a service center maybe you don't care to just let them replace the 12v on a regular basis. Myself I'd consider that wasteful of
materials
time
effort
money
at the least.
If you aren't under warranty or don't live close to a service center a $60 external charger is way cheaper than replacing a $200 battery too often. As a bonus the $60 charger will be usable on every vehicle you own from now until the day they stop using 12v batteries in cars.
As to the "few times a year" depending on your use you may have to do it all the time like every few days or never and every possibility in between. It depends on your usage profile, temps, and such.
I'm saying it takes less effort and money to just charge the 12v using an external device than to deal with having to replace a battery in or out of warranty.
Last edited:
Todd Burch
14-Year Member
Yes, you are talking about the same thing, and the driver's side A-pillar region buzzing was indeed fixed with 7.1. And a little bit of interference in the A pillar speaker was the best way I could describe it. I posted about it in the 7.0 thread a while ago but never really saw much of a response. It cleared up with the 7.1 update, but I hadn't really heard about it from others until now.
Similar threads
