So Yauheni sent me both the original damaged DC-DC converter and the used one he acquired used to replace it. I took both into the lab and dismantled the bad one which I must say was fully and truly destroyed. Not only were all PCB's physically damaged by collision forces, they were then subsequently water damaged. All the boards were conformal coated, which helped a bit, but it appears it was allowed to soak in dirty water for an extended time and there was extensive corrosion present, and it lifted the conformal coating right off the boards in many places.
The Gen 1 DC-DC converter assembly is manufactured by TDI Power (AC-DC, DC-DC Power Modules, Inverters, Electronic Loads, Rectifiers | Astrodyne TDI) for Tesla. It serves as the DC-DC, the high-voltage junction box, and as the controller for the battery fluid heater. It contains fuses for all the output connectors (40A for the A/C compressor, 40A for the PTC Cabin Heater, 20A for the Battery Heater and 20A for the converter itself.) The fuses are replaceable without soldering. The system is controlled by a dsPIC33FJ64GP microcontroller over CAN and it looks to me like it doesn't have very complex firmware. It receives CAN messages to adjust 12v output and control the output of HV to the battery coolant heater, and probably diagnostics but that's about it. It's a phase-shifted converter using four SPW47N60CFD .083 ohm 600v MOSFETs in a full-bridge topology. The converter is managed by a TI UCC3895 PWM Controller so the PIC doesn't have to even worry about driving the supply. The unit is liquid cooled by way of a channel-drilled aluminum extrusion that all the power dissipating components are affixed to. In my opinion it's very well engineered.
I cleared all the dirt and mud off the bench from the bad unit and examined the used unit. It appeared to have also sustained some collision forces, but there was minimal cosmetic damage only, and nothing to affect the function of the unit. The unit has 3 signals other than power, and all are contained in a 6 pin sealed Molex connector: Pins 1 & 2; Red & Dark Blue: CAN bus. Pin 4 is Red with Black: Enable line. Pins 5 & 6; Yellow with Dark Blue & Yellow with Dark Gray: High Voltage interlock loop. The Interlock loop just provides closure when all connectors and covers are in place so that the HV system knows it's safe to begin precharge.
After some basic sanity checks, I provided 360VDC from a Lab supply and observed a small initial inrush draw that quickly tapered off, which was likely the filter capacitors charging up. The Enable line is all that's needed to fire up the converter, but it will not start unless 12V is already present on the large red output stud. Once the 12V is present, Providing 5-12v on the enable line will start up the converter and it will provide a fixed 13.6VDC with no signalling required from the CAN bus. I was able to load it up to about 500W until I ran out of load capacity. It was rock-solid, maybe only falling a handful of millivolts under that load. After a hot soak, I ran a isolation test to verify the HV isolation integrity. Everything seemed fine, so it's now back on it's way to Arizona. If it doesn't work in Yauheni's car, then there's a problem still in the car.
Yauheni, please take some pictures of the 6 pin connector you repaired so we can have a look before you plug it in.
The Gen 1 DC-DC converter assembly is manufactured by TDI Power (AC-DC, DC-DC Power Modules, Inverters, Electronic Loads, Rectifiers | Astrodyne TDI) for Tesla. It serves as the DC-DC, the high-voltage junction box, and as the controller for the battery fluid heater. It contains fuses for all the output connectors (40A for the A/C compressor, 40A for the PTC Cabin Heater, 20A for the Battery Heater and 20A for the converter itself.) The fuses are replaceable without soldering. The system is controlled by a dsPIC33FJ64GP microcontroller over CAN and it looks to me like it doesn't have very complex firmware. It receives CAN messages to adjust 12v output and control the output of HV to the battery coolant heater, and probably diagnostics but that's about it. It's a phase-shifted converter using four SPW47N60CFD .083 ohm 600v MOSFETs in a full-bridge topology. The converter is managed by a TI UCC3895 PWM Controller so the PIC doesn't have to even worry about driving the supply. The unit is liquid cooled by way of a channel-drilled aluminum extrusion that all the power dissipating components are affixed to. In my opinion it's very well engineered.
I cleared all the dirt and mud off the bench from the bad unit and examined the used unit. It appeared to have also sustained some collision forces, but there was minimal cosmetic damage only, and nothing to affect the function of the unit. The unit has 3 signals other than power, and all are contained in a 6 pin sealed Molex connector: Pins 1 & 2; Red & Dark Blue: CAN bus. Pin 4 is Red with Black: Enable line. Pins 5 & 6; Yellow with Dark Blue & Yellow with Dark Gray: High Voltage interlock loop. The Interlock loop just provides closure when all connectors and covers are in place so that the HV system knows it's safe to begin precharge.
After some basic sanity checks, I provided 360VDC from a Lab supply and observed a small initial inrush draw that quickly tapered off, which was likely the filter capacitors charging up. The Enable line is all that's needed to fire up the converter, but it will not start unless 12V is already present on the large red output stud. Once the 12V is present, Providing 5-12v on the enable line will start up the converter and it will provide a fixed 13.6VDC with no signalling required from the CAN bus. I was able to load it up to about 500W until I ran out of load capacity. It was rock-solid, maybe only falling a handful of millivolts under that load. After a hot soak, I ran a isolation test to verify the HV isolation integrity. Everything seemed fine, so it's now back on it's way to Arizona. If it doesn't work in Yauheni's car, then there's a problem still in the car.
Yauheni, please take some pictures of the 6 pin connector you repaired so we can have a look before you plug it in.
