Frunk Dent (Frustrating...)

[Max*]

I think the fear is a bit overblown. I use mine at least 3 times a week. I keep our re-usable grocery bags in there, as well as bounty and bottled water. So I open/close it all the time, so does my wife.

I was scared of creasing it for the first few weeks after reading TMC, then realized that it's overblown. No worries here, no crease here.

 

[mknox]

I think the fear is a bit overblown. I use mine at least 3 times a week. I keep our re-usable grocery bags in there, as well as bounty and bottled water. So I open/close it all the time, so does my wife.

Same here, but reading between the lines, I think some owners have frunk mechanisms that are "stiffer" than others and require more pressure to close. I can close mine easily with my fingertips centered over the latch area (Horrors!) and I do this all the time. It closes with very little effort and I have no signs of any creasing. I don't think I could do this if my latch mechanism was any "tighter". It does close fully and seal well... no signs of water or anything getting inside.

 

[Ingineer]

If your frunk is extremely had to close, I'd demand service do something about it, or make them sign an agreement that states they will repair any damage caused by shutting it.

That said, if you want to disable it and you have a single-motor car, you can simply disconnect the primary actuator. On non-D cars, there is a manual mechanical release under the right side footwell, so it will still be operable. However, Without knowledge of this "hidden" release, it will never be opened. I would not recommend disconnection on D cars, as there is no mechanical bypass, so it would require a bunch of work to get back in.

 

[FlasherZ]

Same here, but reading between the lines, I think some owners have frunk mechanisms that are "stiffer" than others and require more pressure to close. I can close mine easily with my fingertips centered over the latch area (Horrors!) and I do this all the time. It closes with very little effort and I have no signs of any creasing. I don't think I could do this if my latch mechanism was any "tighter". It does close fully and seal well... no signs of water or anything getting inside.

I can attest to this, from my experience with loaners and my own car.

Prior to me hitting the deer in July, my frunk could easily be closed with one hand over the center latch. After repairs, I noticed that there's a bit more tension as you're closing the frunk - as if the seals were lined up a bit better (or they were replaced). I now close using the two-hand method because of this.

I also noticed that while I had the occasional loaner, they were much harder to close than my original Signature car.

 

[mknox]

On non-D cars, there is a manual mechanical release under the right side footwell, so it will still be operable. However, Without knowledge of this "hidden" release, it will never be opened. I would not recommend disconnection on D cars, as there is no mechanical bypass, so it would require a bunch of work to get back in.

I thought I heard that the interior release mechanism was dropped from later non-D cars. I think my advice would be to check for the manual release before fully disabling the actuator.

However, my understanding was that the intent was just to disable it from the fob to prevent accidental openings. I do this from time to time when I press the wrong end of the fob trying to open the trunk. If there's a way to get inside the fob, it would probably be a simple matter to disable the frunk button.

 

[jerry33]

My frunk has an estimated 2,000 opens and closes and no dents.

 

[Gizmotoy]

I thought I heard that the interior release mechanism was dropped from later non-D cars. I think my advice would be to check for the manual release before fully disabling the actuator.

However, my understanding was that the intent was just to disable it from the fob to prevent accidental openings. I do this from time to time when I press the wrong end of the fob trying to open the trunk. If there's a way to get inside the fob, it would probably be a simple matter to disable the frunk button.

The actuator would work for those of us with earlier cars. I was thinking the ideal situation would be to still allow it to be opened from the screen if you really need it, but disable the keys. That said, I suspect disabling the actuator is probably easier. Might be the better/less permanent choice.

The keys do come apart. The casing comes off for replacement, if necessary. What I don't know is if the casing is destroyed in the removal process. Worse case I could buy a new casing. It should be relatively easy to disable the button. Depending on what type, you'd either stick some non-conductive material between the button and the landing on the board, or desolder/cut one of button leads. Unfortunately I haven't seen inside one of the keys, and searches don't turn up any images on Google.

Either way, I asked my SC if there has been any changes to the status of this since we'd last spoke, as well as if there's the possibility of disabling the functionality in the key in software. They've inquired to Engineering and said they'd get back to me.

 

[Ingineer]

Yes, you can unsnap the key housing without damage. There is a little plastic button over each switch, so you could either just remove this (save) or put something in between the PCB and this button to block the switch from pressing down. You could also unsolder the switch or cut a trace, but the mechanical solutions are easily reversible.

To open the key, first remove the battery door, then pry off the sides with a small flat screwdriver.

 

[shadowinstallz]

Open my Frunk 3-4 times daily...no Frunk dent. No fear!

 

[Beryl]

This forum is so helpful.

I had new 48 hour loaner model 70 RWD a week ago and had the same fear after opening the frunk and noticing that it wouldn't easily close. My cousin trained after a few times -- carefully-- and it finally closed.

Is there a difference between AWD and RWD models in this regard?

 

[DCGOO]

On aircraft they use decals "NO STEP" or "STEP." Of course we would not want such crude instructions on our immaculate frunk lids. .

 

[Skotty]

Mine is somewhat difficult to close. Requires enough force to be concerning given the frunk dent legacy of the Model S. Using the 2 handed approach, I can feel the hood flex when I close it with enough force to actually make it close.

On a similar vein, today my frunk would pop but catch on the 2nd latch and not open. Is there an easy release for the 2nd catch like on other car hoods? Or is this another service center problem?

I have to admit, my desire to use the frunk is impaired. I still use it, but the latent anxiety is undeniable.

 

[green1]

Mine is somewhat difficult to close. Requires enough force to be concerning given the frunk dent legacy of the Model S. Using the 2 handed approach, I can feel the hood flex when I close it with enough force to actually make it close.

On a similar vein, today my frunk would pop but catch on the 2nd latch and not open. Is there an easy release for the 2nd catch like on other car hoods? Or is this another service center problem?

I have to admit, my desire to use the frunk is impaired. I still use it, but the latent anxiety is undeniable.

There is an easy release catch for the 2nd latch, it's just not as easy to find as on some cars. you push down on a button beside the latch.
This is however an easy service centre fix, if the 2nd latch isn't releasing automatically, they can fix that, it was a problem I had when I first got my car.

 

[Skotty]

There is an easy release catch for the 2nd latch, it's just not as easy to find as on some cars. you push down on a button beside the latch.
This is however an easy service centre fix, if the 2nd latch isn't releasing automatically, they can fix that, it was a problem I had when I first got my car.

Thank you! Very helpful.

 

[chipmunk]

Yes, you can unsnap the key housing without damage. There is a little plastic button over each switch, so you could either just remove this (save) or put something in between the PCB and this button to block the switch from pressing down. You could also unsolder the switch or cut a trace, but the mechanical solutions are easily reversible.

To open the key, first remove the battery door, then pry off the sides with a small flat screwdriver.

It's probably worth noting that anybody who has "Summon" capability might not want to disable the front button since they would no longer be able to Summon the car forward using the remote.

 

[Solarwind]

Yes have the crease. I think it came about closing the frunk with one hand while the other hand was busy holding something, maybe just removed from frunk.

 

[Ingineer]

It's probably worth noting that anybody who has "Summon" capability might not want to disable the front button since they would no longer be able to Summon the car forward using the remote.

Yes, but you can always use your phone.

 

[Ingineer]

Yes have the crease. I think it came about closing the frunk with one hand while the other hand was busy holding something, maybe just removed from frunk.

I've developed a technique of using one butt cheek and one hand when I have a hand full.

 

[tomp]

I've developed a technique of using one butt cheek and one hand when I have a hand full.

How? I thought the currently "approved" method used one hand toward each 'corner' of the frunk. (Whereas prior method was to put one hand towards either side of the center T)

 

[Ingineer]

How? I thought the currently "approved" method used one hand toward each 'corner' of the frunk. (Whereas prior method was to put one hand towards either side of the center T)

I sort of "sit" on one corner sideways (using one cheek) while pressing with my palm on the opposite corner. Your ass (at least mine is) larger than your hand, and somewhat soft, so the specific pressure is less. Next time I have someone around, I'll shoot a video.