I have a 2018 LR with Ghost and my 0-60 on the app was 3.56 during a 11.7 1/4 run at the dragstrip. So by what others have listed seems to be fairly accurate.
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Ingenext Boost Modules [aftermarket]
- Thread starter JPELKA
- Start date
I do not think installing the wiring harness is possible without taking the glovebox out. The whole process took me about 2 hours. It's not hard, but the space is quite limited.
I live 45min away from Ingenext shop , Im trying to contact the guy who program the boost stuff.
The model 3 highland range have the 3D7 rear motor(194kw/340n.m) new Hairpins Winding design.. so in theory it's a little faster than The old LR Wich as the 990 motor (180kw/326n.m) with regular winding...
Those rear moto combined with the 3D3 front engine (137kw/219n.m) the m3hlr should produce 331kw/443hp Vs 317kw/425hp for the old model .
so of the new hairpin 3d7 are 5% more powerful/efficient, when Ingenext unlock the software it should be exponential.
Maybe the boost 50 will be more likely boost 60 lol plus the 18hp increase bone stock ..
a lot of speculation here but I will get my answer when I talk to the Ingenext tech face to face or by the phone..
Knightshade
Well-Known Member
Literally all their stuff does for performance is tell the car you bought the boost option from Tesla. They aren't "programming" the boost- they're just lying to the car about what config you paid for.
I installed the ghost behind the glove box without removing it. If you are flexible and can bend the plugs 45deg back then it’s actually v easy. Takes me 5 mins to install and even less to uninstall if I need to
I installed in my 3lr over the weekend without removing the glovebox - for the primary reason that the ingenext instructions made no sense for my car and I couldn't figure it out.
Wasn't too difficult once I got my hand in, but it was literally feet on the roof and head on the floor lol
p.s I am seeing +56kw increase at peak power in my logs at 80% SOC (haven't tested higher yet) which is strange as I always thought it was meant to be 50hp (37kw)
GuyFromGPT
Member
GuyFromGPT
Member
My wife and I own 2 ‘23 Model YLRs. Hers has the ghost, and was a pain (for me) to install. So when I purchased my car later in the year, I didn’t want to take apart the dash again. So, mine the Tesla Acceleration Boost (purchased with Loyalty Bonus referral points.) Our cars are same build, just different color.
The Ghost is like the Performance, which I have also driven. The Acceleration Boost seemingly splits the difference between Ghost (Performance) and normal Long Range acceleration.
I would pay for the Ghost again, had I actually had to pay for the Acceleration Boost with money, instead of points.
The Ghost is like the Performance, which I have also driven. The Acceleration Boost seemingly splits the difference between Ghost (Performance) and normal Long Range acceleration.
I would pay for the Ghost again, had I actually had to pay for the Acceleration Boost with money, instead of points.
I have both a Boost LFP and Draggy, so I can do some comparisons when I get a chance.
GuyFromGPT
Member
I wish there was a software toggle, to put it in “Normal” Mode, to mediate the extremes between chill and stolen car banshee. Lol
GuyFromGPT
Member
Is this on a Ryzen car? I've had the thing sitting here for 2 months because I just can't find the time to take so much apart (worried I'll damage some stuff in the process, haven't been able to find the time to take my time with it). I'd much rather try to fit my fingers in there for an hour than remove the glovebox.
MagnusMako
Member
I can't speak for the Ryzen install specifically but on my '18 3 AWD, I ordered these two extension pliers and used them to help. I tried for half an hour on my own with fingers and just found the dexterity needed to get into such a small space while laying awkwardly at cramped angle on the passenger floor was just too difficult. Once I had the pliers I was able to wrangle the harness connectors out much easier and only took me about 5-10 minutes to get it physically installed.
Thank you. I believe on Ryzen it's even more difficult.
Here's a pic I took, it's tight tight tight! Maybe if I remove the upper door jamb trim there would be a little more space to work. I can't even really see the upper connector!
Edit: so the two connectors that need to be routed thru the Ingenext module are actually above the white connector that is visible. I can't even see the bottom of the two, I think it's impossible to do it without removing the glovebox.
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Update: I have the glovebox removed and am still having a really tough time unplugging the X170 connector. The way they ran the other wires is blocking my access to the trick mechanism for unlocking it. Can anyone who's done it offer any advice?
I am convinced there is no way in hell you can do a Ryzen install w/o removing the glovebox.
I am convinced there is no way in hell you can do a Ryzen install w/o removing the glovebox.
I can't speak to the newer models other than to say I feel your pain. I spent like 3 hours (upside down, head under glovebox, feet in the air) trying to get the thing connected on my '18 and from what I gather it's way harder now. Good times wondering if I had stranded myself without a vehicle when I was supposed to be heading out in the morning. Good luck!
I finished the install and am just finishing up putting the trim back. I had to go pick up kids from school, there's another Tesla avail if I couldn't have brought this car to a drivable state — but I did. I couldn't finish everything, basically glovebox and airbag were back in 100% but upper dash was still lose on the pass side until I finish everything else. I was almost afraid to punch it for fear of the dash braking apart
Tho it's not that weak and was fine.The install was an absolute pain. Difficulty is 10/10 on Ryzen. I would say, if you're not very comfortable working on cars, electronics, etc., probably not a great idea. I've worked on cars in the past, including taking (gasser) engines apart, my main concern was really not to damage anything taking it apart/putting it back. I am happy to report that, other than the X170 connector, which can go straight to hell (sayonara red clip! you will not be missed!), all the parts are made extremely well from a popping out and back in, unlike parts on some computers (you go to upgrade RAM/SDD and it just doesn't go back together exactly like before, and you mar some parts because even with the right tools they don't come apart properly — there is none of that here, yay! So, there is at least that (again, except for the X170 connector). The people/robots who put my car together routed the cabling around the connectors in question the worst way possible/imaginable, I had a terrible time with both connectors, but in particular with the upper X170 — there is a very thick and hard cable that ran in such a way that you couldn't remove the connector. An absolute nightmare.
