CuriousG
Active Member
Have you tried calling Tesla lately? Unless your car has recently been in for service and you have a previous extension they have given out, you'll have a hard time getting to talk to someone.
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Make an appointment via the app, they will contact you if it can be done via mobile service. That said, I did manage to get a hold of a live person few weeks ago when I needed a new 12V battery, made the appointment but it wasn't for a couple of weeks, so called them if I can just buy and pick up and install the battery myself as I was worried about the car crapping out on me expectantly, they were very helpful and said I can, but also offered to squeeze me in just a few days later with a mobile tech, so I took that. The tech came and did an excellent job.Have you tried calling Tesla lately? Unless your car has recently been in for service and you have a previous extension they have given out, you'll have a hard time getting to talk to someone.
I’m about to undertake this adventure. Which fuse is for the MCU...?Pulling the fuse for MCU is all that's needed. There's no high-voltage present near the MCU.
Quicker and easier.
The same one I mentioned in Post 225I’m about to undertake this adventure. Which fuse is for the MCU...?
Don't other devices on the CAN or other bus not seeing the MCU have any issues if you remove the MCU while the rest of the car has power?Pulling the fuse for MCU is all that's needed. There's no high-voltage present near the MCU.
Quicker and easier.
The car will run with a dead MCU or a dead IC, and i believe even both. Drive by wire failures were planned here, it is not a pleasant experience, but it doesn't put you in a state of danger by any means
Just want to point out that if the MCU fails and you are unable to charge the car (which seems to be the general consensus), then the MCU most definitely is needed to drive.
Have the limitations on the vehicle associated with an MCU1 failure been summarized? I believe the following are true...
No charging
No main display
No HVAC controls
No audio controls
And my specific question, similar to the loss of HVAC controls - does the battery cooling system still operate? During summer months, the vehicle cooling the battery in the afternoon is a common occurrence for my vehicle; losing that would presumably be not good.
you can start your car via app.. this overrides pin to drive, tried this to make sure i can still use this security feature as i too have a ms '13 with almost 200k km, though the mcu was replaced by the previous owner at some point
My 2017 MCU1 died at just under 2 years old and ~15k miles bricking the car in my garage.
Interestingly enough, I spoke with a Tesla mobile ranger who told me they are noW replacing MCU 1 with MCU 2. He said they have an adapter for the plugs and you get the full on new MCU 2 when it is replaced. Is that true- not sure, but I asked the question 5 different ways and he was pretty confident. As an aside, was told that this may not be public knowledge. Anyone out there have ANY confirmatory evidence that this is the case? I am skeptical, so I’d like to see something definitive...
If you drive in a state which has cold winters, no heat in the car while driving through remote areas could be considered dangerous. Having to drive with your head out the window because defrosters don't work, your windshield, mirrors and windows are all iced up, while you navigate narrow roads on the side of the mountains, also sounds pretty dangerous. Would you consider it safe?The car will run with a dead MCU or a dead IC, and i believe even both. Drive by wire failures were planned here, it is not a pleasant experience, but it doesn't put you in a state of danger by any means
I wasn't trying to do anything with the rest of the car while I had the MCU out, so while they may have been confused at the time, it's not a big deal.Don't other devices on the CAN or other bus not seeing the MCU have any issues if you remove the MCU while the rest of the car has power?
I have a December 2016 AP2/MCU1 Model S with 24,500 miles and I saw corrupted fonts once on the charging screen. That was a couple of months ago.I have seen those font errors from many months. But I have seen a lot of posts about that. Is that restricted to older cars? I had not realize that it was not occurring in newer cars. Or is it?
That was exactly the point the Service Center made to me when my MCU was not functioning recently -- that the weather was turning cold and that it would be a safety issue to let me leave in a car with no defroster. Since they gave me a loaner, I did not mind leaving the car even though I had come in without an appointment and knew they could not get to the car for at least 2 or 3 days. They were being very conservative, because it was really not yet that cold. But I appreciated the safety-first attitude.If you drive in a state which has cold winters, no heat in the car while driving through remote areas could be considered dangerous. Having to drive with your head out the window because defrosters don't work, your windshield, mirrors and windows are all iced up, while you navigate narrow roads on the side of the mountains, also sounds pretty dangerous. Would you consider it safe?
Yes...TonyT herein posting within this thread provides the service.MCU2 might be a worthwhile upgrade for $2k. That price for another MCU1 seems wasteful. In the meantime is there a third party service to mail in the MCU for the repair?
My eMMC situation seems to be getting dire. Lots of freezing, stuttering/loss of audio, and last night the entire thing froze up while playing chess with my daughter as we waited for my wife to shop.
Excuse me if this is a silly question, as I am not a software/computer specialist, or if I missed it being discussed already, but how hard would it be to upgrade the processor to get a functioning browser while the MCU1 is out getting a new upgraded eMMC? Is it pretty much the same level of difficulty?
Excuse me if this is a silly question, as I am not a software/computer specialist, or if I missed it being discussed already, but how hard would it be to upgrade the processor to get a functioning browser while the MCU1 is out getting a new upgraded eMMC? Is it pretty much the same level of difficulty?
MCU2 might be a worthwhile upgrade for $2k. That price for another MCU1 seems wasteful. In the meantime is there a third party service to mail in the MCU for the repair?
My eMMC situation seems to be getting dire. Lots of freezing, stuttering/loss of audio, and last night the entire thing froze up while playing chess with my daughter as we waited for my wife to shop.
Last night I got the new eMMC from Tony and my car is all put together again. I'm so glad I did it before it failed entirely. Tony was very helpful. He also upgraded my car to LTE which makes a big difference.
No more glitches, no more frozen screen, no more bluetooth and internet loosing connection. Most importantly I don't get stranded with a dead MCU which is inevitable with the chip failing. I should be safe now for the next 20 years.
I did most of the mechanical part of taking the dash apart myself.
View attachment 478018
Last night I got the new eMMC from Tony and my car is all put together again. I'm so glad I did it before it failed entirely. Tony was very helpful. He also upgraded my car to LTE which makes a big difference.
No more glitches, no more frozen screen, no more bluetooth and internet loosing connection. Most importantly I don't get stranded with a dead MCU which is inevitable with the chip failing. I should be safe now for the next 20 years.
I did most of the mechanical part of taking the dash apart myself.
View attachment 478018