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Took delivery of Model 3 yesterday. Just wanted to mention, AEB activation would also be reported in the system log file. I noticed, and instance of Lane Divergence Warning while driving yesterday was in the log file.

I have not read owner's manual from beginning to end. Wondering - is there anyway this log file be downloaded by the user? They need a Send to Printer or Print to PDF function (lol). Can entries be deleted by the user (as opposed to service person), or are they collected for the lifetime of the vehicle?
A screen print option that saves a PNG file or similar to the USB drive would be nice!
 
Model S P100D, Purchased 12/2017, HW 3.0 upgrade, FSD option (which I don't use because it performs so poorly)

When I purchased, I thought SW updates were going to be good thing, and for the first 4 years or so they were. In the last 18 months, updates have made TACC worse and worse. The latest update, 2023.7.10 has made TACC all but unusable and has ruined my car. TACC was once very good and, honestly, was one of the main reasons I bought the car. I once used TACC (and Autosteer) almost continuously every day on my daily commute and on trips. My Model S was hands down my preferred long-distance car because of TACC and Autosteer. Even my non-tech wife loved it. On our last long trip, it broke my heart to leave the Model S in the garage. We took my wife's Hyundai SUV, because its version of TACC now performs MUCH better than my $140K Tesla.

TACC is not safe. When a car drives in a way that is unexpected to other drivers, it creates a potential for a collision. Phantom braking is a big problem. I, too, have almost been rear-ended multiple times. Some brakes are so dramatic that they they send items on the seat flying in the air, and I know I would be rear-ended if someone was behind me. With the latest update, it's much worse. I would call it "phantom deceleration" (PD). For example, there's one place on my daily commute where the speed limit is 55. I'm using TACC and Autosteer set to 60 on a 4-lane road. PD slows the car quickly to 35, every time! My best guess is that it sees the small orange road cones on the side of the road (in the grass, about 20 feed from the edge of the road). On another 4-lane road, PD slows from 50 to 35. No cones anywhere this time. My guess is the yellow lines in the middle of the road just before a left-hand turn lane. Again, likely I would get hit if someone was behind me. In my 18 min drive to/from work, PD occurs at least 10 times every trip. I frequently have to fully disengage TACC/AP. My wife's Hyundai SUV does not have ANY of these problems.

TACC causes traffic congestion. Two of the biggest causes of traffic congestion are (1) cars accelerating too slowly when a light turns green (which limits the number of cars that can get through an intersection before the next red), and (2) excessive spacing between cars in traffic. TACC is HORRIBLE in both cases. (1) When the light turns green, my car accelerates VERY slowly. I always have to manually accelerate, which means I can no longer use TACC in stop and go traffic. (Performance in stop/go traffic used to be one of the features I liked best about TACC). (2) If I come up on a car driving more slowly, I'm happy with the distance TACC puts between me and the car ahead. But, when the car ahead accelerates, my car always accelerates very slowly, opening up a huge distance between me and the car ahead. I always have to manually accelerate. Bottom line, TACC is only useful if there are no other cars on the road. If I am in traffic, I am CONTINUOSLY having to accelerate manually. I.e. TACC is all but useless. My wife's Hyundai SUV is not great in this category either, but it's better than my Model S.

TACC gives a very uncomfortable ride. Phantom braking and PD make for a very uncomfortable ride. Also, "normal" braking is not smooth at all. The worst is when I am coming up on a car that is stopped at a red light. The car brakes very abruptly. I now almost always disengage TACC when approaching cars that are moving slowly or stopped. If I forget, my wife asks me to disengage. The way my car brakes upsets her stomach. My wife's Hyundai SUV always brakes smoothy in every situation. It is 10x better than my Model S.

Since this has been going on for over a year and because it gets worse with nearly every update, someone at Tesla apparently thinks this kind of performance is desirable. If this is the case, I fear there's little chance that it will ever get any better. Given this, as much as this kills me, I will very likely sell my Model S. I once loved my car and loved driving it. Now, I can't stand driving it. It is unlikely that I will EVER buy another car that updates it's software like this. The software updates have ruined my car. Tesla has stolen my car from me.

I would like to complain to Tesla and see if they recognize the issues that we are all having and if they intend to fix them. Does anyone know of a way to reach them?
 
How do I prevent an automatic update? Options are only Standard and Advanced.
There aren't automatic updates. You have to click install for the update to happen. Standard setting is for software that's been in other cars already and has bugs worked out. Advanced lets you get potentially buggy, beta software that will be tested on your car.

I am standard and always look forward to updates.
 
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Model S P100D, Purchased 12/2017, HW 3.0 upgrade, FSD option (which I don't use because it performs so poorly)

When I purchased, I thought SW updates were going to be good thing, and for the first 4 years or so they were. In the last 18 months, updates have made TACC worse and worse. The latest update, 2023.7.10 has made TACC all but unusable and has ruined my car. TACC was once very good and, honestly, was one of the main reasons I bought the car. I once used TACC (and Autosteer) almost continuously every day on my daily commute and on trips. My Model S was hands down my preferred long-distance car because of TACC and Autosteer. Even my non-tech wife loved it. On our last long trip, it broke my heart to leave the Model S in the garage. We took my wife's Hyundai SUV, because its version of TACC now performs MUCH better than my $140K Tesla.

TACC is not safe. When a car drives in a way that is unexpected to other drivers, it creates a potential for a collision. Phantom braking is a big problem. I, too, have almost been rear-ended multiple times. Some brakes are so dramatic that they they send items on the seat flying in the air, and I know I would be rear-ended if someone was behind me. With the latest update, it's much worse. I would call it "phantom deceleration" (PD). For example, there's one place on my daily commute where the speed limit is 55. I'm using TACC and Autosteer set to 60 on a 4-lane road. PD slows the car quickly to 35, every time! My best guess is that it sees the small orange road cones on the side of the road (in the grass, about 20 feed from the edge of the road). On another 4-lane road, PD slows from 50 to 35. No cones anywhere this time. My guess is the yellow lines in the middle of the road just before a left-hand turn lane. Again, likely I would get hit if someone was behind me. In my 18 min drive to/from work, PD occurs at least 10 times every trip. I frequently have to fully disengage TACC/AP. My wife's Hyundai SUV does not have ANY of these problems.

TACC causes traffic congestion. Two of the biggest causes of traffic congestion are (1) cars accelerating too slowly when a light turns green (which limits the number of cars that can get through an intersection before the next red), and (2) excessive spacing between cars in traffic. TACC is HORRIBLE in both cases. (1) When the light turns green, my car accelerates VERY slowly. I always have to manually accelerate, which means I can no longer use TACC in stop and go traffic. (Performance in stop/go traffic used to be one of the features I liked best about TACC). (2) If I come up on a car driving more slowly, I'm happy with the distance TACC puts between me and the car ahead. But, when the car ahead accelerates, my car always accelerates very slowly, opening up a huge distance between me and the car ahead. I always have to manually accelerate. Bottom line, TACC is only useful if there are no other cars on the road. If I am in traffic, I am CONTINUOSLY having to accelerate manually. I.e. TACC is all but useless. My wife's Hyundai SUV is not great in this category either, but it's better than my Model S.

TACC gives a very uncomfortable ride. Phantom braking and PD make for a very uncomfortable ride. Also, "normal" braking is not smooth at all. The worst is when I am coming up on a car that is stopped at a red light. The car brakes very abruptly. I now almost always disengage TACC when approaching cars that are moving slowly or stopped. If I forget, my wife asks me to disengage. The way my car brakes upsets her stomach. My wife's Hyundai SUV always brakes smoothy in every situation. It is 10x better than my Model S.

Since this has been going on for over a year and because it gets worse with nearly every update, someone at Tesla apparently thinks this kind of performance is desirable. If this is the case, I fear there's little chance that it will ever get any better. Given this, as much as this kills me, I will very likely sell my Model S. I once loved my car and loved driving it. Now, I can't stand driving it. It is unlikely that I will EVER buy another car that updates it's software like this. The software updates have ruined my car. Tesla has stolen my car from me.

I would like to complain to Tesla and see if they recognize the issues that we are all having and if they intend to fix them. Does anyone know of a way to reach them?
Curious: 1) what was your following distance setting? 2) what was recorded in the log/alerts file (I think it is the bell icon in upper left on Car Settings screen)?
 
I just took ownership of my first Tesla yesterday. I notice that there is a log of most events that happen, such as me veering into adjacent lane while trying to find something on the console and Lane Departure warning going off.

So two questions related to major PB events:
1) what is reported in the log for these events?
2) I am not sure if there is a way to disable regenerative braking completely. Maybe set Hold mode to "creep". Has anyone tried to reduce regenerative braking to differentiate if the sudden slow down is coming from Regenerative Braking or actual Brake actuation. Although this is not a solution it might mitigate the severity of deceleration when driving wide open roads where there is not much value to regenerative braking. I know in the manual I read something if the car slows down for any reason with TACC engaged that it will illuminate the brake lights. Hmmm. That makes me think- I did a hard ABS test yesterday - I will go back and check log to see if it reported this event.

If it is going to be left up to the users to solve these PB issues, for any incident reports I would suggest always reporting the date of event, the car model and year, the current software versions, and whether FSDb package installed, and if subscribed to Premium Connectivity. The latter, I mention because I read one report that suggested the poor cellular signal in desolate areas might have had some correlation to PB occurrences.
Unless the PB event was a false AEB activation, nothing appears in the logs.
 
I have read the Owner's Manual but not memorized it (LOL). Just took delivery of M3LR yesterday. Per your suggestion of not updating software rollouts if I find a one that gives a better solution to a TeslaVision deficiency can you answer these questions?

How do I prevent an automatic update? Options are only Standard and Advanced. It appears to be a "forced" push if vehicle is connected to WiFi. Vehicle was delivered with v11.1 (2023.12.200). Is the only solution to never connect vehicle to WiFi? What do I lose by not connecting to WiFi? Do I lose ability to view cameras in Sentry Mode or is this available through premium connectivity?

I did see mention in special cases, Tesla could perform an updater via Premium Connectivity wireless link.

I usually never update my iPhone immediately after a new update, because you can't go backwards unless you reset phone and restore from backup.
The car does not automatically update. It will automatically download new software, but requires you to initiate the installation of the software.
 
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The car does not automatically update. It will automatically download new software, but requires you to initiate the installation of the software.
I will note however it will keep nagging you to schedule an update, but you can easily close the window every time. However, some people may accidentally press to schedule one. If that happens, it's possible to cancel the schedule by telling it to begin the update and then cancelling it before the timer ends. Then the nag comes back and schedule is cancelled.
 
I just had an hour of stop and go traffic, 0-35 mph, and TACC was phenomenal. Didn't have to touch the brake or accelerator for an hour. Couple times I adjusted the follow distance from 7 to 4 to get more assertive launches from a stop, but either way was fine.

Excessive gaps in traffic does not cause congestion. Too many cars for the lane causes congestion, and that's it. Good gaps actually easy congestion, because fewer people have to hit their brakes.
 
I just had an hour of stop and go traffic, 0-35 mph, and TACC was phenomenal. Didn't have to touch the brake or accelerator for an hour. Couple times I adjusted the follow distance from 7 to 4 to get more assertive launches from a stop, but either way was fine.

Excessive gaps in traffic does not cause congestion. Too many cars for the lane causes congestion, and that's it. Good gaps actually easy congestion, because fewer people have to hit their brakes.
Truly excessive gaps do make congestion worse (by reducing traffic capacity per a given road), as does too little gap (which causes start-stop ripples that reduces traffic flow).
Do drivers who keep extremely huge gaps between their car and the car in front of them in heavy, very slow stop-and-go traffic cause the ...

The thing is TACC does not give excessive gaps. Even set to 7, it's basically what is considered a "normal" gap. But most people space their cars much closer, so they feel it is excessive. In reality most people don't allow a long enough following distance, especially in stop/go traffic, which necessitates continual stopping and starting (accelerating and braking extensively). TACC does attempt to reduce this but is not absolutely perfect. A perfect system would be able to keep the car rolling at the same average speed as the traffic (allowing the distance to the car in front to vary naturally) and basically never have to come to a stop even in stop and go traffic.

An excessive gap is generally formed if the car tries to maintain a gap of a given length instead of trying to match the average flow of traffic. For example they are following exactly 6 car lengths from the car in front, and works to maintain that distance even when traffic has slowed (and a shorter distance is more appropriate). This means the ripple effect of stop/start is still passed along to the cars behind, but then the gap means less cars can fit.
 
It seems a consensus that most drivers that experience automatic slow downs on 2-lane roads, with turns and hills, or not, have to disengage/not use TACC altogether.

I don't think you can make that conclusion. I personally don't have to disengage or not use TACC because of two lane roads. Every road is different...Now is there a section of 2 lane road where my car slows down and puts on the turn signal wanting to turn into the woods, sure, it doesn't actually attempt the turn by the way and realized the mistake. In this case I can just abort the turn signal and press on the accelerator a bit to get past the section.

Another spot is on a divided highway where the car USED to slow down on a certain curve for no reason, every time. It was fixed with my last update.

I am not sure if there is a way to disable regenerative braking completely. Maybe set Hold mode to "creep". Has anyone tried to reduce regenerative braking to differentiate if the sudden slow down is coming from Regenerative Braking or actual Brake actuation.

No you cannot disable regenerative braking...well you can but you would have to cold soak your battery. So from an experimental standpoint you can do this to check what is happening on sudden slowdowns..IF they are repeatable. If you have an area where the car always or almost always slows down then you can put the tip of your foot under the brake pedal and hold a bit of upward pressure. When there is a slowdown if it used the brake you will feel the brake pedal being depressed....I'll give you the answer though...the brake pedal isn't being activated, unless it is an AEB activation(warning on display and audible alert), OR you have blended braking turned on.


I know in the manual I read something if the car slows down for any reason with TACC engaged that it will illuminate the brake lights.

Yes, the brake lights are activated in two ways, by physical brake activation as well as a g-force sensor. Both of these modes of brake light activation are accounted for in the national vehicle safety standards.
 
Truly excessive gaps do make congestion worse (by reducing traffic capacity per a given road), as does too little gap (which causes start-stop ripples that reduces traffic flow).
Do drivers who keep extremely huge gaps between their car and the car in front of them in heavy, very slow stop-and-go traffic cause the ...

The thing is TACC does not give excessive gaps. Even set to 7, it's basically what is considered a "normal" gap. But most people space their cars much closer, so they feel it is excessive. In reality most people don't allow a long enough following distance, especially in stop/go traffic, which necessitates continual stopping and starting (accelerating and braking extensively). TACC does attempt to reduce this but is not absolutely perfect. A perfect system would be able to keep the car rolling at the same average speed as the traffic (allowing the distance to the car in front to vary naturally) and basically never have to come to a stop even in stop and go traffic.

An excessive gap is generally formed if the car tries to maintain a gap of a given length instead of trying to match the average flow of traffic. For example they are following exactly 6 car lengths from the car in front, and works to maintain that distance even when traffic has slowed (and a shorter distance is more appropriate). This means the ripple effect of stop/start is still passed along to the cars behind, but then the gap means less cars can fit.
Thanks for the more nuanced explanation, agree with everything you say.

Stepping back one level, I still say it's all just too many cars for the lane. There will always be a percentage of distracted drivers leaving too big a gap, that's part of the capacity.

If the lane is slowing below the speed limit, the capacity of the lane (to maintain the speed limit) is exceeded.


Back to PB: Just drove Spokane to Seattle and did have one PB event, that tracked with what someone else observed here or another thread: There was a big rig way in the distance, at the limit of what the cameras could parse, otherwise empty highway, truck flickered a couple times on the screen, had a couple full regen slow downs from 75 to 65 before I hit the go pedal. Happened 3x, stopped when I got closer to the truck and car fully resolved it.

Still drives great through massive mirages, low angle sun, full downpour rain. First PB on this release, and about 3-4k miles, wildly varying conditions.
 
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Driving from Flagstaff to Page. Using cruise control. No fewer than 25 phantom breaking incidents in 2 hours time. Incredibly frustrating and dangerous
I had a hard automatic breaking event at approximately 80 mph two days ago on my 2023 Model 3 RWD. It was very scary and I am completely worried about being hit hard from behind if being followed too closely on the highway. I have had the car only a few weeks, but do not see radar sensors on the front. What if a bug hits the camera ? Does anyone think this could cause it?
 
My PBs sometime seem harder than just regen and the bar gets fuller than I recall it doing with just regen I guess maybe it could be regenning harder that it does under normal conditions. Ultimately it doesn't really matter I dont think, slowing down from 75 to 40 is slowing down from 75 to 40 whether its from regen or regen+friction.
 
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My PBs sometime seem harder than just regen and the bar gets fuller than I recall it doing with just regen I guess maybe it could be regenning harder that it does under normal conditions. Ultimately it doesn't really matter I dont think, slowing down from 75 to 40 is slowing down from 75 to 40 whether its from regen or regen+friction.
I agree. I also think the regen braking available to us humans is significantly reduced as compared to what the car can do on its own.
 
My PBs sometime seem harder than just regen and the bar gets fuller than I recall it doing with just regen I guess maybe it could be regenning harder that it does under normal conditions. Ultimately it doesn't really matter I dont think, slowing down from 75 to 40 is slowing down from 75 to 40 whether its from regen or regen+friction.

I kind of look at deceleration rate as an important metric as well. Just saying it slowed down from 75-40 isn't really the whole story, how fast did it do it? Dropping your speed from 75-40 (76%) in half a second(average human reaction time) or even 1 second, is pretty quick and could bring in other questions.
 
I agree. I also think the regen braking available to us humans is significantly reduced as compared to what the car can do on its own.

I agree, and the deceleration curve definitely could be different as well. Hmm.., I need to find a strong repetitive PB spot and plot the deceleration and compare it to a normal foot off the accelerator.
 
This is pretty hard braking imo. It's not full on panic stop but pretty sharp.

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