Not sure where this small washer was supposed to go, but I had to install without it. Still need to somehow unscrew the leg more, but so far it feels that it stops some amount of cylinder movement. I still need to get rid of the air that got stuck in abs and install rear stainless lines.
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beastmode13
Member
Uneven pad material deposit on the rotor can the cause of the "soft" pedal feel.
Small washer goes with the small nut - can use superglue to hold together...
See post 52ish - I put link to small cheap wrench that makes adjusting the "leg" much easier...may be better options but this was effective vs. standard length wrench...
lbowroom
Plaid, white on black, CF, 8/27/21, Track Pack
The M6 washer goes on the bottom of the small M6 bolt to distribute the load a bit better on the slotted hole in the cross-member. It probably isn't a big enough deal to warrant you taking it back apart, but just letting you know
Didnt douse it, just one little drop to hold for install...assumed it broke free under torque...came with the kit so assume it had some value, but wouldn't sweat it either way!
@MountainPass I think there's still confusion about where this washer goes. In the photo it looks like it's under the spacer. But the in written instructions it sound like it's under the cross-member. Does it go on the brace side, or the nut side?
spacer
M6 washer
cross-member
M6 nut
Or
spacer
cross-member
M6 washer
M6 nut
spacer
M6 washer
cross-member
M6 nut
Or
spacer
cross-member
M6 washer
M6 nut
lbowroom
Plaid, white on black, CF, 8/27/21, Track Pack
But isn’t the serrated flanged nut the same or larger OD as the washer I dropped? How does that distribute the load better? I know, doesn’t really matter.... but we’re discussing it.
We don't like having serrated nut directly on the painted metal, it will mark it up and damage the finish. We will use larger washers in the next run whether it matters or not
Got mine installed and definitely can feel the difference! Installation was pretty easy after seeing all the warnings about dropping the washer lol used to tape to hold it to the underside of the crossmember while getting the nut in position.
Was definitely a little tricky to get the jam nut tightened after adjusting the brace length but should be good enough for what it's doing.
Was definitely a little tricky to get the jam nut tightened after adjusting the brace length but should be good enough for what it's doing.
ElectricGhost
Member
It's immediately noticeable. How heavy you brake doesn't really matter. What this product is doing is effectively removing slack in pressure when you push the pedal down. That slack is the first thing to work through before brakes are applied. Think of it as the first 10% of pedal movement is the gap in pedal movement applied at the factory (free play), the next is the firewall bending, then you have a combination of other effects with pressurization of the lines.
If you can tighten the brake pedal slack and install this brace, your braking is going to be more spot on with pedal movement and feel. I'm going to see if there is a way to fighting the pedal travel slack but the brace did a lot to address feel and responsiveness of braking, especially light braking, but even with firm it tightens up the pedal feel and lets you get on full pedal pressure a little sooner.
We should get them all filled by the end of next week, the braces have all been anodized but the spacers are just going out to anodizing today!
I finally got my act together and installed it. It took around 1.5 hours to finish it, taking my time and everything. Couple things I want to add compare to what the OP said
1. The two bolts from my brace weren’t on that tight. I got them out pretty easily. Of course every bolt on my car is a little loose, tesla QA....
2. The way I dealt with the washer problem. I placed the nut on a 10mm socket and set it aside. I then slip the washer on, holding it with my other hand. I go back to the socket and move it under the washer. It ended up not being bad at all.
3. I didn’t need any special wrench to tighten the adjuster. I just took a short 13mm wrench and hit it from the battery side. Just turn it sideways a little and it should be okay.
4. I took a quick test drive. It did what it was supposed to and gave me a pedal with less travel. If that’s what you are looking for, this is perfect. If you want the car to stop faster, get pads.
1. The two bolts from my brace weren’t on that tight. I got them out pretty easily. Of course every bolt on my car is a little loose, tesla QA....
2. The way I dealt with the washer problem. I placed the nut on a 10mm socket and set it aside. I then slip the washer on, holding it with my other hand. I go back to the socket and move it under the washer. It ended up not being bad at all.
3. I didn’t need any special wrench to tighten the adjuster. I just took a short 13mm wrench and hit it from the battery side. Just turn it sideways a little and it should be okay.
4. I took a quick test drive. It did what it was supposed to and gave me a pedal with less travel. If that’s what you are looking for, this is perfect. If you want the car to stop faster, get pads.
Did your stock brace bolts have Loctite on them? I am surprised they were loose...kind of. I hope you're enjoying the MPP brace!
Knightshade
Well-Known Member
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