Master Thread: Definitive 14-50 NEMA Outlet Guide

[pbcsd]

Great thread! Just chiming in, thought the "way" to go was to install a 14-15 outlet (and see that the Leviton one my electrician was going to use is not recommended) and posted a few Q's in various threads but will post the same here.

But still confused on 6-50 vs 14-50 for a dedicated outlet. Assuming the difference in cable cost is negligible, is there any particular reason to choose 6-50 instead of 14-50? Right now I am only "thinking" of buying an EV (likely the Tesla Y), but I assume many years down the line as ICE goes the way of the dodo bird a second and so on will be on the way.

Is a 6-50 and associated wiring a better solution longer term (wiring for a 6-50 less prone to potential issues down the line I think I read somewhere)?

 

[Sophias_dad]

Great thread! Just chiming in, thought the "way" to go was to install a 14-15 outlet (and see that the Leviton one my electrician was going to use is not recommended) and posted a few Q's in various threads but will post the same here.

But still confused on 6-50 vs 14-50 for a dedicated outlet. Assuming the difference in cable cost is negligible, is there any particular reason to choose 6-50 instead of 14-50? Right now I am only "thinking" of buying an EV (likely the Tesla Y), but I assume many years down the line as ICE goes the way of the dodo bird a second and so on will be on the way.

Is a 6-50 and associated wiring a better solution longer term (wiring for a 6-50 less prone to potential issues down the line I think I read somewhere)?

TBH, I'd go 14-50. 6-50 has no neutral line which means only two power carrying conductors need to be fed through conduit, meaning potentially smaller conduit and 1/3 of the conductor expense is eliminated. The UMC power adapter cord is $45 for the 14-50 and $35 for the 6-50.

14-50 seems to be far more common for EV chargers and other large power consumers, and 6-50 won't ever be usable for an RV in case your extended family comes for a visit.

Unless its a SUPER long run, the savings of that one conductor isn't worth the loss of versatility, IMHO.

 

[wws]

Great thread! Just chiming in, thought the "way" to go was to install a 14-15 outlet (and see that the Leviton one my electrician was going to use is not recommended) and posted a few Q's in various threads but will post the same here.

But still confused on 6-50 vs 14-50 for a dedicated outlet. Assuming the difference in cable cost is negligible, is there any particular reason to choose 6-50 instead of 14-50? Right now I am only "thinking" of buying an EV (likely the Tesla Y), but I assume many years down the line as ICE goes the way of the dodo bird a second and so on will be on the way.

Is a 6-50 and associated wiring a better solution longer term (wiring for a 6-50 less prone to potential issues down the line I think I read somewhere)?

A 14-50 supports *both* 120V and 240V circuits. For example in a large RV, 120V is used for lights and small appliances, and 240V is used for the air conditioning. Whereas a 6-50 *only* supports 240V. In the case of EV charging, only 240V is used. So for EV charging, there is no technical difference between a 6-50 and a 14-50.

However when on the road, a 14-50 is the defacto "50 amp" standard at RV campgrounds and the like. If you want to use RV campgrounds and such as backup charging locations, it is important to carry the Tesla 14-50 adapter. You'll almost never see a 6-50. For practical reasons, this is why so many opt for 14-50s.

 

[Gauss Guzzler]

14-50 is also the future standard while 6-50 is being phased out. And the presence of a neutral line allows you to easily replace the outlet with a subpanel to branch out to a bunch of 120/240V things.

But if the theoretical benefits of a 14-50 are of no value to you, a 6-50 is cheaper and just as good.

And be sure to consider a wall charger instead. By the time you get a GFCI breaker, a neutral wire, quality 14-50 outlet, box, cover, pigtail adapter and cord hook you're looking at nearly the same cost - and the 30% tax credit narrows the gap even further. Plus you get to keep the portable charger in the car for Airbnb's and stuff.

 

[wws]

14-50 is also the future standard while 6-50 is being phased out...

The 6-50, and 6-series receptacles in general, are not being phased out. Perhaps you are thinking of 10-series - such as the common 10-30 receptacle for clothes dryers in older homes? Like the 14-series, they offer both 120V and 240V capability. But don't have the separate safety ground that newer electrical codes require.

 

[Jeremy3292]

14-50 is also the future standard while 6-50 is being phased out. And the presence of a neutral line allows you to easily replace the outlet with a subpanel to branch out to a bunch of 120/240V things.

But if the theoretical benefits of a 14-50 are of no value to you, a 6-50 is cheaper and just as good.

And be sure to consider a wall charger instead. By the time you get a GFCI breaker, a neutral wire, quality 14-50 outlet, box, cover, pigtail adapter and cord hook you're looking at nearly the same cost - and the 30% tax credit narrows the gap even further. Plus you get to keep the portable charger in the car for Airbnb's and stuff.

I'm installing a 6-20 outlet at my parents house which will be covered under the porch on a dedicated circuit. GFCI breaker necessary or no? I don't want the charger to trip the breaker and come out to find my car not charged in the morning...

 

[Gauss Guzzler]

6-20 because you already have 12AWG in place?

Considering that there are a million Teslas out there and a whole lot of people using the UMC to charge on legal (GFCI) outlets you probably don't need to lose sleep over a handful of forum posts citing trouble. But if you want to lose sleep, the car will alert your phone if the charge is interrupted in the middle of the night.

I believe S. Carolina is on the 2017 NEC which only requires protection for 120V outlets but someday they'll move to 2020 NEC which requires it for all outdoor outlets.

 

[pbcsd]

14-50 is also the future standard while 6-50 is being phased out. And the presence of a neutral line allows you to easily replace the outlet with a subpanel to branch out to a bunch of 120/240V things.

But if the theoretical benefits of a 14-50 are of no value to you, a 6-50 is cheaper and just as good.

And be sure to consider a wall charger instead. By the time you get a GFCI breaker, a neutral wire, quality 14-50 outlet, box, cover, pigtail adapter and cord hook you're looking at nearly the same cost - and the 30% tax credit narrows the gap even further. Plus you get to keep the portable charger in the car for Airbnb's and stuff.

I don't believe we need GFCI breakers in Ontario Canada when its' installed in a garage away from any water source but will confirm. Curious, do you simply mean the Tesla Wall Charger? Are there generic ones that are recommended instead (e.g., if down the line I add a second EV that isn't a Tesla)?

 

[Jeremy3292]

6-20 because you already have 12AWG in place?

Considering that there are a million Teslas out there and a whole lot of people using the UMC to charge on legal (GFCI) outlets you probably don't need to lose sleep over a handful of forum posts citing trouble. But if you want to lose sleep, the car will alert your phone if the charge is interrupted in the middle of the night.

I believe S. Carolina is on the 2017 NEC which only requires protection for 120V outlets but someday they'll move to 2020 NEC which requires it for all outdoor outlets.

It's actually in VA where my parents live, which I believe is 2017 NEC as of 7/1/21 but 2014 NEC is grandfathered in until 7/1/22.

My dad built a massive 30x40 shop/garage so he already is wiring the entire place with 12 gauge for all the regular 5-15 outlets. So a 6-20 outlet works perfectly bc it provides very adequate charging for my needs and no extra work really other than 240 volt vs 120 volt.

Just didn't know if it was necessary to get a 20 amp GFCI breaker or if a regular 20 amp breaker would suffice.

 

[t.e.s.l.a_dude]

14-50 is also the future standard while 6-50 is being phased out. And the presence of a neutral line allows you to easily replace the outlet with a subpanel to branch out to a bunch of 120/240V things.

But if the theoretical benefits of a 14-50 are of no value to you, a 6-50 is cheaper and just as good.

And be sure to consider a wall charger instead. By the time you get a GFCI breaker, a neutral wire, quality 14-50 outlet, box, cover, pigtail adapter and cord hook you're looking at nearly the same cost - and the 30% tax credit narrows the gap even further. Plus you get to keep the portable charger in the car for Airbnb's and stuff.

Thanks for the info. This was exactly what I was looking for.

 

[fjliska1314@ya]

Many many discussions on this topic, but I have been unable to determine some basics - sorry, but perhaps have just not read enough. What I have read is 'be sure to NOT get the Leviton 14-50. Instead Bryant or Hubbell. Does anyone know the difference between:

Amazon.com

https://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-253-1454-HBL9450A-Receptacle/dp/B000J15QW2

https://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-Wiring-Systems-HBL9450A-Specification/dp/B00IPBMUKY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1532722760&sr=8-3&keywords=cooper%2B5754n&tag=tmc064-20&th=1

Zoro Select Receptacle, 50 A Amps, 125/250V AC, Flush Mount, Single Outlet, 14-50R, Black 9450FR | Zoro

Order Zoro Select Receptacle, 50 A Amps, 125/250V AC, Flush Mount, Single Outlet, 14-50R, Black, 9450FR at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.

www.zoro.com

Other than price and all are 'not Leviton' I really can't tell which route to go. M3SR+ on order, getting EVSE set up but struggling to find best price/performance options.
Of course if there are better options (price/performance), I'm interested. Thanks for any help available.

After reading all these comments I started looking for the Bryant 14-50 receptacle and found it on Grainger for $42.61 with a few dollars for shipping, I'll be installing it myself as I did the original install myself.

 

[patrickscott]

After reading all these comments I started looking for the Bryant 14-50 receptacle and found it on Grainger for $42.61 with a few dollars for shipping, I'll be installing it myself as I did the original install myself.

Thanks for the info.

 

[NJturtlePower]

Not sure if this was previously posted, but this was direct from Tesla back in 2018.

I have shared this screen shot quite a bit when I see DIY or even electricians using the cheap big box $20 outlets.

Purchased the Hubble unit and had my installers use that. Check eBay or Amazon for the best prices ($65-75) in my searches.

Hubbell 9450A 50A 4W Single Receptacle 125/250VAC 14-50R BK | eBay

 

[Jeremy3292]

Not sure if this was previously posted, but this was direct from Tesla back in 2018.

I have shared this screen shot quite a bit when I see DIY or even electricians using the cheap big box $20 outlets.

Purchased the Hubble unit and had my installers use that. Check eBay or Amazon for the best prices ($65-75) in my searches.

Hubbell 9450A 50A 4W Single Receptacle 125/250VAC 14-50R BK | eBay
View attachment 736652

Curious where you found that Tesla support document? Not seeing those recommendations in the link below:

https://www.tesla.com/sites/default/files/pdfs/installation-guides/nema-14-50-installation-guide.pdf

However, I definitely agree just curious where the doc came from.

 

[NJturtlePower]

Curious where you found that Tesla support document? Not seeing those recommendations in the link below:

https://www.tesla.com/sites/default/files/pdfs/installation-guides/nema-14-50-installation-guide.pdf

However, I definitely agree just curious where the doc came from.

I don't really remember, might have been the UMC guide or similar to what you posted, but last I've seen they don't promote any specific brands anymore, just state "commercial grade".

Either way, Commercial grade is NOT the $15-20 big box outlets some continue to use.

 

[SoCalRabbit]

A newbie here and been doing some research while looking into installing a charger for a Tesla 3 we are expecting to receive next month. I read from this guide and seems like a GFCI is also required to meet code, I'm sorry if it's been asked before but how does everyone handle the tripping issue with GFCIs? I'm considering going with a wall charger instead.

Tesla Charger Installation Must-Read

Looks like these guys also use Bryant w/ a decent explanation: https://shop.greenzuru.com/products/bryant-industrial-grade-50a-125-250v-14-50r-wall-outlet

 

[Rocky_H]

A newbie here and been doing some research while looking into installing a charger for a Tesla 3 we are expecting to receive next month. I read from this guide and seems like a GFCI is also required to meet code, I'm sorry if it's been asked before but how does everyone handle the tripping issue with GFCIs?

I don't know if there is anything people can do to "handle it" other than just "deal with it". Specifically the amount of current used by the charging cable's ground test is supposed to be less than the threshold for what would set off the GFCI, but they seem to be close, so if the GFCI breaker is a little out of spec or goes out of spec a few years on, it can start having that problem. I don't know of much to do at that point other than replace it with a new one, which is hopefully in spec again.

I'm considering going with a wall charger instead.

That is looking like a decent option these days because of that annoying requirement.

 

[SoCalRabbit]

I don't know if there is anything people can do to "handle it" other than just "deal with it". Specifically the amount of current used by the charging cable's ground test is supposed to be less than the threshold for what would set off the GFCI, but they seem to be close, so if the GFCI breaker is a little out of spec or goes out of spec a few years on, it can start having that problem. I don't know of much to do at that point other than replace it with a new one, which is hopefully in spec again.

That is looking like a decent option these days because of that annoying requirement.

That's what that Green Zuru installer service told us. We're not very experienced with electrical work and originally thought to install a NEMA plug ourselves, but learned that there's a decent chance that we'll have to be replacing the plug in a few years even with the industrial grade one.

We are going with the wall charger after some research and installer recommendation. Our house is a little bit complicated given our panel and service because it's an older California home, but apparently there's an option with the Tesla wall charger to set the amperage so we don't have to upgrade our service and move our panel to meet updated code. It'll charge slower at 15 mph but beats paying $10k+ to upgrade and all the hassle, sigh. Not sure if anyone ran into the same issue with older homes, really quite a pain.

 

[Gauss Guzzler]

Yeah it's no problem to run the wall charger on a 20A circuit and even with the price increase to $550 it's still only a tiny bit more expensive than the 14-50 setup - plus you get to keep the mobile cord handy for road trips and you still have a charger after you sell the car.

But 20A is a bit slow. I'd suggest you have the electrician show you the actual numbers, not just their opinion of how much capacity you should use. It's not common to have enough space for a double pole breaker yet be legally limited to only 20A. If they're just worried about you charging in the middle of the day with the A/C on full blast, the pool pump cranking away along with the toaster, microwave, and dryer you can just promise that you'll dial it back to 20A on those days.

Remember, an electrician's worst nightmare is to tell you "it'll be fine, just don't be stupid about it" and then have you call them back 2 months later demanding free rework because the breaker trips every time you do something stupid.

 

[Jeremy3292]

Could just buy a 6-20 adapter and install a 6-20 outlet. Simple ROMEX 12-2 install and would be very cheap if cost is an issue. 240 volts, 16 amps, and 16 mph on my M3 LR.

This is what I installed at my parents house and I think it is plenty tbh.