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Model 3 monthly Payment?

What do you atcipate spending - monthly?


  • Total voters
    125
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If you go down that path, get GAP insurance. You don't want your totaled 1 year in, and end up having to pay the bank back money because the insurance company cut you a check for less than the car is worth.

An insurance company won't cut you a check for less than the car is worth. They may cut you a check for less than you owe, but that is an different story.
 
Absolutely, I should have included that in my post as it’s a very important aspect.

I'm actually wondering, with huge preorder count and slow catch up (1 year), if you total m3, will there be a need for gap insurance? I'm thinking they will have to cover full loan because there aren't any cars like m3 on market. If someone can help out with their insight, would be great.
 
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I'm actually wondering, with huge preorder count and slow catch up (1 year), if you total m3, will there be a need for gap insurance? I'm thinking they will have to cover full loan because there aren't any cars like m3 on market. If someone can help out with their insight, would be great.

No, your loan balance has nothing to do with the value of the car.
 
Should be between $600-700 assuming my trade in is worth $10k (should be worth rather more, but aiming low) and that I put down another $10k cash. Might put down more, might put down less. Depends if I take delivery this year or next year because of tax implications.
 
I'm brand new but I registered just because I think a LOT of people are confused about the $7500 tax credit, and it's REALLY IMPORTANT to this payment discussion.

That tax credit is "nonrefundable." The tax credit will only reduce an amount of tax that you OWE at the end of the year. So, it is NOT money that you are going to get to use for the car. It's just money that you won't have to pay the IRS if you have a balance due at the end of your taxes. That money should not at all be used in your monthly payment calculations.
 
I'm brand new but I registered just because I think a LOT of people are confused about the $7500 tax credit, and it's REALLY IMPORTANT to this payment discussion.

That tax credit is "nonrefundable." The tax credit will only reduce an amount of tax that you OWE at the end of the year. So, it is NOT money that you are going to get to use for the car. It's just money that you won't have to pay the IRS if you have a balance due at the end of your taxes. That money should not at all be used in your monthly payment calculations.
Not true. Please read the many threads on this subject.
 
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I'm brand new but I registered just because I think a LOT of people are confused about the $7500 tax credit, and it's REALLY IMPORTANT to this payment discussion.

That tax credit is "nonrefundable." The tax credit will only reduce an amount of tax that you OWE at the end of the year. So, it is NOT money that you are going to get to use for the car. It's just money that you won't have to pay the IRS if you have a balance due at the end of your taxes. That money should not at all be used in your monthly payment calculations.
So you've registered to spread incorrect info, then. Congratulations on wasting your time, and ours.
 
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I'm brand new but I registered just because I think a LOT of people are confused about the $7500 tax credit, and it's REALLY IMPORTANT to this payment discussion.

That tax credit is "nonrefundable." The tax credit will only reduce an amount of tax that you OWE at the end of the year. So, it is NOT money that you are going to get to use for the car. It's just money that you won't have to pay the IRS if you have a balance due at the end of your taxes. That money should not at all be used in your monthly payment calculations.
a lot of people are confused, including you...:rolleyes:
Computer-Guy-Facepalm.jpg
 
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I'm brand new but I registered just because I think a LOT of people are confused about the $7500 tax credit, and it's REALLY IMPORTANT to this payment discussion.

That tax credit is "nonrefundable." The tax credit will only reduce an amount of tax that you OWE at the end of the year. So, it is NOT money that you are going to get to use for the car. It's just money that you won't have to pay the IRS if you have a balance due at the end of your taxes. That money should not at all be used in your monthly payment calculations.
So do you work in sales for BMW or Audi?
 
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I'm brand new but I registered just because I think a LOT of people are confused about the $7500 tax credit, and it's REALLY IMPORTANT to this payment discussion.

That tax credit is "nonrefundable." The tax credit will only reduce an amount of tax that you OWE at the end of the year. So, it is NOT money that you are going to get to use for the car. It's just money that you won't have to pay the IRS if you have a balance due at the end of your taxes. That money should not at all be used in your monthly payment calculations.
Not this again. Please read up tax liability vs. tax withholdings.

The IRS can owe me (due to me having the wrong withholding) $1k. But if my tax liability (the amount I need to pay uncle sam in taxes) is above $7,500 - then the IRS would send me a check for $8,500.

Please consult a CPA, your information is dead wrong.
 
I'm brand new but I registered just because I think a LOT of people are confused about the $7500 tax credit, and it's REALLY IMPORTANT to this payment discussion.

That tax credit is "nonrefundable." The tax credit will only reduce an amount of tax that you OWE at the end of the year. So, it is NOT money that you are going to get to use for the car. It's just money that you won't have to pay the IRS if you have a balance due at the end of your taxes. That money should not at all be used in your monthly payment calculations.

As others have pointed out, you are wrong concerning the refundability of the $7500 tax credit. You are correct that it shouldn't be used for monthly payment calculations as the buyer will still have to pay full price and then apply for the refund when they do their taxes in the following year.

When I did calculations for my monthly payment, I did it without subtracting the $7500 from the originaly price. I also did a "what if" scenario to see how much my payments would go down if I refinanced my load after receiving the state and federal tax refunds.

Btw, my federal tax refund was $7500 higher and my state tax refund was $6000 higher thanks to my Tesla purchase. :D
 
Not this again. Please read up tax liability vs. tax withholdings.

The IRS can owe me (due to me having the wrong withholding) $1k. But if my tax liability (the amount I need to pay uncle sam in taxes) is above $7,500 - then the IRS would send me a check for $8,500.

Please consult a CPA, your information is dead wrong.

Interesting. I've seen several sources stating the opposite, and my tax person said it would not increase my refund. This is good news. Could you point me in the direction of a credible source? Or something that could help me understand liability vs withholding?

As others have pointed out, you are wrong concerning the refundability of the $7500 tax credit. You are correct that it shouldn't be used for monthly payment calculations as the buyer will still have to pay full price and then apply for the refund when they do their taxes in the following year.

When I did calculations for my monthly payment, I did it without subtracting the $7500 from the originaly price. I also did a "what if" scenario to see how much my payments would go down if I refinanced my load after receiving the state and federal tax refunds.

Btw, my federal tax refund was $7500 higher and my state tax refund was $6000 higher thanks to my Tesla purchase. :D

That's great news!
 
Interesting. I've seen several sources stating the opposite, and my tax person said it would not increase my refund. This is good news. Could you point me in the direction of a credible source? Or something that could help me understand liability vs withholding?
Liability vs withholding is pretty simple. Liability is how much you owe. Withholding is how much you choose to take out of your paycheck each month. If you calculate it perfectly, at the end of the year your liability would equal your withholding, and you wouldn't owe any money or get a refund. If liability > withholding, you owe money. If liability < withholding, you get a refund back.

The EV tax credit reduces your liability. If, for example, your liability is $7500 in the year you purchased the EV, it would get reduced to $0. The amount of refund you get would be exactly the same as your withholding. The only tricky part is that the refund will never reduce your liability to less than 0 - you will never get more money back then you paid in.