Model 3 Performance/Ludicrous Waiting Room

[jjrandorin]

So has there been any consensus on what you should typically charge the new M3P to? Is it still 80%

No, 80% is "forum myth" as far as it doing anything appreciable as far as battery degradation is concerned. For a super duper high level "TL ; DR" its 60% or less if you want to have any real impact on battery degradation... but thats if your into min maxing.

Is it okay to charge to 100% occasionally if you know you will be going on a longer trip?

Yes, sure. Best practice is just to time the completion of the 100% charge as close to your leaving time as you can (but that means "within the hour" not down to the minute or anything).

For more than that, you can search TMC for any posts by user @AAKEE who has posted "all the data". Otherwise, any discussion of "the battery" tends to get bogged down, and its the number one posted topic here with probably 100+ threads and 10,000+ posts.

 

[jjrandorin]

Ditto. It cracks me up that if someone who ordered an LR a few months ago switches to a P they immediately get prioritized, ostensibly due to time. Yet we order at the front of the line and get zero priority. Please make it make sense.

Does that really happen all the time, though?

I think I’m gonna send messages like this every day to them till I hear something more informing… I know it’s so stupid to even try to get any kind of information out of them through the app. just will be funny to hear how they respond to me…

Sidenote,
do you guys think it’s because I have it on the app that I’m paying cash instead of financing?
do you think they’re holding it back and taking care of everybody that financed from them first?View attachment 1057500

Hello everybody sorry to just start posting stuff without saying hi first lol
I’m from the other waiting rooms since January just found this one
It’s horrible and nice to see people going through what I’m going through. Been through it all from selling my car to borrowing cars to buying my 16-year-old a car that he doesn’t have a license yet so I can get around
to tense situations
with family members and wife
to a room full of accessories collecting dust and a charger installed

 

[arkhos]

Got a VIN this morning, as well as the ability to schedule pickup Thurs or Fri.

Unfortunately, the default location is Fife, which is neither ideal coming from Eastern WA, nor convenient for the person who I was going to hitch a ride with as they are headed to Everett.

I sent a message asking if I could change to any other delivery center in the Seattle area or more northern, but have not heard back yet.

Has anyone in the Seattle area had success in changing the delivery day location?

Awesome! Yakima even! You plus a few Portland folks, I gotta pray that I am in the mix soon, too! Woohoo!

Still counting on July delivery, of course.

Grats!!!

 

[brianman]

Yes, sure. Best practice is just to time the completion of the 100% charge as close to your leaving time as you can (but that means "within the hour" not down to the minute or anything).

A bit faster than "within the hour" if you're at a supercharger though, please.

 

[ads230]

Nice! did you get a new EDD/delivery date? I thought the waiting was a lot easier when you get a VIN, but now I am just eagerly awaiting them to schedule me an actual delivery date haha

Edd changed to 6/18-6/25 . Earliest date available is 6/20. Which I took lol

 

[ads230]

for my down payment do I need a cashiers check or can they take it out of my savings not sure how this works.

Also there shouldn’t be a problem with uploading the insurance the day of right? Since I already scheduled my pick up date

 

[HBDesiato]

Plaid payments has been around for years. They act as a middle man between your institution and your bank, that way you don't have to give your bank creds directly to whatever company you are working with.

OK, wow. Thanks. I just used plaid to pay for my M3P - That was super easy and fast, except, you know, I don't have the car yet. I felt a bit uneasy connecting my checking account but I'm going to change my password soon.
Maybe I'll get an actual delivery date now, fingers crossed.

 

[terranx]

for my down payment do I need a cashiers check or can they take it out of my savings not sure how this works.

Also there shouldn’t be a problem with uploading the insurance the day of right? Since I already scheduled my pick up date

You can pay with an ach transfer

 

[CHB12312]

Edd changed to 6/18-6/25 . Earliest date available is 6/20. Which I took lol

Nice! Got my vin last week as well. 6/28-6/30 here but they told me that it’s expecting to arrive early next week. Still no delivery date yet though

 

[ArrghMatey]

Wanted to add in some info for those still waiting or debating switching to the LR. My love of the adaptive suspension shot through the roof today.

It was my first day commuting into the office since getting the M3P. I wandered off the main roads through the country in the general direction of the office to enjoy the drive - never went that way before. At one point the road switched from asphalt to dirt, and it was pretty heavy washboard and I thought crap. Shouldn’t have gone this way.

In my old car I would have had to go about 20 mph, and be shaken half to death the whole way. But omg! Had the M3P in standard mode for the suspension and I just cruised at about 45 mph over all of it. It was surreal! Whatever magic sauce they put in the suspension is incredible.

 

[AAKEE]

No, 80% is "forum myth" as far as it doing anything appreciable as far as battery degradation is concerned. For a super duper high level "TL ; DR" its 60% or less if you want to have any real impact on battery degradation... but thats if your into min maxing.

Answering you @jjrandorin but it is for @CHB12312, I got the quotes in the wrong order…(I guess/know you know this )

For the US M3P it is actually 55% or less (Panasonic NCA chemistry) to be sure to be below the sharp step thst reduces degradation.

In this test, they also found the reason for the step, the central graphite peak. It is positioned at 57% true SOC, wich is thexsame as 55% displsyed SOC in a Tesla LR/P (the buffer below 0% displayed offsets the reading).

So has there been any consensus on what you should typically charge the new M3P to? Is it still 80%? Is it okay to charge to 100% occasionally if you know you will be going on a longer trip?

This will be my first Tesla so I am trying to familiarize myself with this stuff

To maximize power you would like to have high SOC, and a warm battery.

So to get all out of the car, 80% + would be needed.
It is recommended to charge late, just before leavijg on the drive. This makes the battery warmer (better power) and also reduces the time at high SOC.

You should not worry too much about degradation but it might be good to know that 80% and around (actually any number above 55-60%) will give about double calendar aging compared to low SOC.

The battery in the M3P is not the battery with the lowest degradation so be prepared to loose some, specially the first year. It is normal and a part of having an EV.
You will probably be told by a lot of people that 80% is the best SOC, but they have in that case gotten bitten by the common myth that @jjrandorin wrote about.

 

[popolocrois]

So I had ordered a m3p but switched to the long range today. It’s what I was aiming for to begin with but didn’t due to the better deal at the time with the ev credit on the m3p. Not gonna lie, was kind of stoked thinking “well, i guess I’m forced into getting a bad ass model 3! My hands are tied!” But once the LR also got it, it just made more sense for my personal usage. Hope someone in the east coast gets my spot . Here was the previous latest info:

M3P
RN12154xxxx
Atlanta
SG/White
OD: 4/24
Time: 12:09 AM EST
Latest EDD: July 28 - Sept 1

Good luck you guys! I got a vin about 5 minutes after changing with the same color combo. Guess that’s not too surprising. I’ll keep checking back in here just out of curiosity, and also i suppose I should delete my info on the tracker… or just change it to let people know it’s been switched ? But anyway…

Another one bites the dust.

 

[Raptor911]

Answering you @jjrandorin but it is for @CHB12312, I got the quotes in the wrong order…(I guess/know you know this )

For the US M3P it is actually 55% or less (Panasonic NCA chemistry) to be sure to be below the sharp step thst reduces degradation.

View attachment 1057643
In this test, they also found the reason for the step, the central graphite peak. It is positioned at 57% true SOC, wich is thexsame as 55% displsyed SOC in a Tesla LR/P (the buffer below 0% displayed offsets the reading).


To maximize power you would like to have high SOC, and a warm battery.

So to get all out of the car, 80% + would be needed.
It is recommended to charge late, just before leavijg on the drive. This makes the battery warmer (better power) and also reduces the time at high SOC.

You should not worry too much about degradation but it might be good to know that 80% and around (actually any number above 55-60%) will give about double calendar aging compared to low SOC.

The battery in the M3P is not the battery with the lowest degradation so be prepared to loose some, specially the first year. It is normal and a part of having an EV.
You will probably be told by a lot of people that 80% is the best SOC, but they have in that case gotten bitten by the common myth that @jjrandorin wrote about.

So keep the SOC between 55-80 for battery longevity?

 

[Firehawk]

any number above 55-60%) will give about double calendar aging compared to low SOC.

This means half the degradation by fully charging compared to going very low SOC?

 

[dd_720]

Answering you @jjrandorin but it is for @CHB12312, I got the quotes in the wrong order…(I guess/know you know this )

For the US M3P it is actually 55% or less (Panasonic NCA chemistry) to be sure to be below the sharp step thst reduces degradation.

View attachment 1057643
In this test, they also found the reason for the step, the central graphite peak. It is positioned at 57% true SOC, wich is thexsame as 55% displsyed SOC in a Tesla LR/P (the buffer below 0% displayed offsets the reading).


To maximize power you would like to have high SOC, and a warm battery.

So to get all out of the car, 80% + would be needed.
It is recommended to charge late, just before leavijg on the drive. This makes the battery warmer (better power) and also reduces the time at high SOC.

You should not worry too much about degradation but it might be good to know that 80% and around (actually any number above 55-60%) will give about double calendar aging compared to low SOC.

The battery in the M3P is not the battery with the lowest degradation so be prepared to loose some, specially the first year. It is normal and a part of having an EV.
You will probably be told by a lot of people that 80% is the best SOC, but they have in that case gotten bitten by the common myth that @jjrandorin wrote about.

So what does this mean exactly? Doesn't matter much if you charge to 80 vs 100?

 

[hkarthik]

Everyone who's waiting on a end of Q2 M3P VIN, but staring at the early delivery options for a LR every hour.

 

[phantasms]

So I had ordered a m3p but switched to the long range today. It’s what I was aiming for to begin with but didn’t due to the better deal at the time with the ev credit on the m3p. Not gonna lie, was kind of stoked thinking “well, i guess I’m forced into getting a bad ass model 3! My hands are tied!” But once the LR also got it, it just made more sense for my personal usage. Hope someone in the east coast gets my spot . Here was the previous latest info:

M3P
RN12154xxxx
Atlanta
SG/White
OD: 4/24
Time: 12:09 AM EST
Latest EDD: July 28 - Sept 1

Good luck you guys! I got a vin about 5 minutes after changing with the same color combo. Guess that’s not too surprising. I’ll keep checking back in here just out of curiosity, and also i suppose I should delete my info on the tracker… or just change it to let people know it’s been switched ? But anyway…

Another one bites the dust.

Can you message your SA that I’ll take that car. Cash now and I’ll drive anywhere. I’m in NH.

 

[HereComeTheSun]

Surprisingly not hard to see out at night even with the windshield tinted too, I am also very used to tints but these do seem darker than I usually go and are still not bad for seeing out at night. In fact I think these tints help me at night since my eyes are sensitive to light, before other car headlights would blind me and now they don't, way safer for me personally.

I have the car in the shop getting 30% all around and 70% on windshield being put on as we speak. I personally still wanted to get some of the nice Tesla natural light.

 

[bmil03]

So what does this mean exactly? Doesn't matter much if you charge to 80 vs 100?

I’m sure OP will reply, but here’s how I interpret this and will continue to charge my 2024 M3P when delivered, which is the same way I’ve charged my 2021 M3P and MY LR for the last 3+ years.

For typical use charging to 80% is fine. Does it degrade the battery more as compared to charging to 55-60%? Yes, but does it also provide you with balance of having ample range for longer range trips without needing to charge to 100% unnecessarily or being able to do it on a whim? Also yes. At the end of the day if you are buying an EV with a hyper focus on optimizing the battery degradation, in my opinion, that is weird. No need to start a debate though, so everyone can continue to do what they feel is best for their situation.

 

[BustinJeebs]

Picked up the car today at Scottsdale, AZ center. Pretty busy delivery day for them as they had at least 10-20 others doing the same with the various cars. Of course with my luck, everything was good except a dent on the trunk lid. Had the guy come out along with a service manager and they said to open a ticket, and they'll do the same. They'll replace the trunk lid. The guy said that it came from factory like that... Come on Tesla!