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Wiki Model S Delivery Update

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Another Tesla moment on the way in this morning.
Sitting at a light. The car is intermittently moving just a bit. Think somewhere between small aftershocks and an ICE miss that is most certainly going to result in a dead motor. It was slight but you could even see it in the mirrors as they vibrated just a tad.

Turns out it was the stereo next to me. You know, the kind that rattles the fasteners out of the door panels and license plate. I could not hear it. The only indication I had was a very subtle shake of the car that felt nothing like the base notes you normally feel next to one of the these mistakes of a sound system.

Neat stuff Tesla.
 
Forgive my ignorance, but can someone who's been through the process let us (who have not and haven't been able to get ahold of a human at Tesla) know how the journey looks from varying EDD to taking delivery?
  • How do we know when we've been assigned a VIN? Will we be called on the phone or sent an email? So far I've just been relying on scraping the value from the Tesla.ProductF.Data.Vin element in my account page but I have no idea if/when that'll be updated.
  • How many days is it usually between VIN assignment and delivery? I imagine this is a function of delivery location and insurance status, but is there a general trend?
  • The account page says "you will be notified once your agreements are available for review." How does this happen? Is it the same mechanism that notified us of VIN assignment?
  • The account page also says "pay the final balance with an ACH transfer prior to delivery." Can we do this through the website by adding a bank account and initiating the transfer, or do we need to initiate a direct debit from our bank? I bank with USAA and am slightly concerned about account withdrawal limits/banking secrecy act/IRS notifications.
  • I've heard stories of folks who have been threatened to lose their place in line unless they're able to pick up the car within two days of delivery. How much flexibility is there in this delivery acceptance window if we're not in town to accept the car?
  • When does the car show up in the Tesla app? Will I add it at delivery or doe it show up automatically? I see no option for adding it in the app.
  • Are there other "gotchas" or things we should look out for once we're within a few of weeks of our estimated delivery dates?

Thanks in advance for any insight you can provide!
I will respond to what I can on this. Anyone feel free to update my post where I might be wrong.
  • Email will typically prompt you for "final payment" from what I have been seeing. From there, you login and have a VIN. Depending on state laws, you can hold payment until you take delivery. No clue on the element you are referring to.
  • This is entirely dependent upon logistics and there is no hard and fast number. CA deliveries? A day, two? Washington? Seven days seemed to be? Texas? Seen as much as 14 days.
  • Yes
  • You can use the Tesla account to do so. They leverage a service called Plaid - different than the car.
  • The MVOA says you have to pick it up in three days. I think the LR thread has people discussing how they might be out during their delivery range and their SA said three days was it. The good news (if you can call it that) is that you would not go back to the end of the line, you would just be matched the next time a vehicle build is matching your config.
  • Delivery, automatically.
 
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Interesting Delivery!

Picked up my MS LR(?), MSM, 21s on Saturday, no major quality issues, but one thing that was a bit crazy......
it has a carbon spoiler and a Plaid badge!! (Yes I checked the VIN, it is my car)

I'm pretty sure its a badging mistake, seats are not Plaid, SW is for LR, and 0-60 is in the low 3s (although SW may limit that).
So unless I get motivated to take the car apart to see what the drivetrain looks like I'm assuming its a badging
mistake and not some Franken-Tesla with LR seats and SW and a Plaid drivetrain and badging.

Now the question is what do I do?
  1. Keep it as is, its an interesting Tesla built combination that maybe has some value when I resell? (I'm guessing nobody would care unless they were inclined to re-badge anyway, which you could do yourself with a little $ and work)
  2. Remove the Plaid badge (nothing against those who want to rebadge their LRs, I just wouldn't do it...on my own :))
  3. Modify the Plaid badge (PLAID-, PAID, PLAID? or maybe others from earlier in this thread)
I'm leaning toward #2, but would be interested in hearing what folks on this thread think/would do?
Also, any advice on how to remove the badge if I go with #2 or #3?
(note I'm keeping the spoiler in all scenarios, it looks great on the car)

Overall the car is incredible, its the best car I've ever owned. A few things that stand out:
  1. Yoke is still a mix for me. Love it on the highway, love the visibility, but a few things I notice that are particularly annoying:
    1. If you drive up to a stop where you're had to turn the wheel sharply then put your blinker on, the arrows are upside down or vertical, its quite confusing selecting the correct signal, especially since you might need to activate the signal with the right hand.
      1. Maybe I'll get use to it, or will get use to turning the signals on earlier, but its definitely going to take re-learning
    2. Backing up the old fashion way, right arm across the passenger seat and looking out the back window doesn't work well because you can't spin the yoke (easily) with your left hand. Yes the backup camera is great, but I still like my eyes pointing in the direction the car is moving. Maybe I'll get over that and get use to using the camera.
    3. If I had to pick after just a few days of driving I think I would take a wheel and a signal lever, we'll see if that changes after 2 weeks, months, years (I guess it will be FSD by then so I won't care).
  2. Was worried about the ride quality of the 21" but they feel great, even on the rougher roads in NH, I will be buying winter rims/tires in the coming months though
  3. I find the audio system to be ok. I played with the EQ and got a sound that I thought was acceptable, but I'm definitely not getting the clarity and imaging that some people have said they've enjoyed about the system. That said its my car, so I'm not expecting audiophile quality while driving.
  1. Post photos of your LR;
  2. Modify the badge to say PLAIDISH;
  3. Turn on your blinkers earlier, before you turn the wheel;
  4. When backing, use your cameras and mirrors. When your older, you won’t be able to turn and look. DISCLAIMER: I live in Florida.; and
  5. Enjoy your new Tesla and drive it in good health!
 
Please say it isn’t true… the “chrome delete” is just old chrome parts panted black?!

I will respond to what I can on this. Anyone feel free to update my post where I might be wrong.
  • Email will typically prompt you for "final payment" from what I have been seeing. From there, you login and have a VIN. Depending on state laws, you can hold payment until you take delivery. No clue on the element you are referring to.
  • This is entirely dependent upon logistics and there is no hard and fast number. CA deliveries? A day, two? Washington? Seven days seemed to be? Texas? Seen as much as 14 days.
  • Yes
  • You can use the Tesla account to do so. They leverage a service called Plaid - different than the car.
  • The MVOA says you have to pick it up in three days. I think the LR thread has people discussing how they might be out during their delivery range and their SA said three days was it. The good news (if you can call it that) is that you would not go back to the end of the line, you would just be matched the next time a vehicle build is matching your config.
  • Delivery, automatically.
You do not have to use the Plaid service. When you get the "final payment" message, just click through it. On the last page of the MVPA will be instructions for mailing in a cashiers check or initiating a wire transfer. I'm also a USAA customer--initiated the wire transfer first thing in the morning and it took about 2 hours for it to complete and post.
 
Can folks who have taken delivery provide their perspective on the cabin noise (or hopefully lack thereof)? How does it compare to other Teslas, and perhaps more importantly, how does it compare to other luxury car manufactures?

I'm not expecting it to be quieter than the Germans, but am certainly hopeful that it is at least in the same ballpark. Like many of you, I'll end up taking a good number of work / conference calls while driving on the highway, and I heard previous Teslas, even the previous S model years didn't have great cabin noise insulation...

Thanks!
 
Can folks who have taken delivery provide their perspective on the cabin noise (or hopefully lack thereof)? How does it compare to other Teslas, and perhaps more importantly, how does it compare to other luxury car manufactures?

I'm not expecting it to be quieter than the Germans, but am certainly hopeful that it is at least in the same ballpark. Like many of you, I'll end up taking a good number of work / conference calls while driving on the highway, and I heard previous Teslas, even the previous S model years didn't have great cabin noise insulation...

Thanks!
The noise floor is much lower than any other Tesla I have been in. Not Lexus/S Class levels, but its good. I expect ANC will further help.
 
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Another Tesla moment on the way in this morning.
Sitting at a light. The car is intermittently moving just a bit. Think somewhere between small aftershocks and an ICE miss that is most certainly going to result in a dead motor. It was slight but you could even see it in the mirrors as they vibrated just a tad.

Turns out it was the stereo next to me. You know, the kind that rattles the fasteners out of the door panels and license plate. I could not hear it. The only indication I had was a very subtle shake of the car that felt nothing like the base notes you normally feel next to one of the these mistakes of a sound system.

Neat stuff Tesla.

Can folks who have taken delivery provide their perspective on the cabin noise (or hopefully lack thereof)? How does it compare to other Teslas, and perhaps more importantly, how does it compare to other luxury car manufactures?

I'm not expecting it to be quieter than the Germans, but am certainly hopeful that it is at least in the same ballpark. Like many of you, I'll end up taking a good number of work / conference calls while driving on the highway, and I heard previous Teslas, even the previous S model years didn't have great cabin noise insulation...

Thanks!
A few posts above was a good perspective ;)
 
I read this again. You have both a NEMA14-50 outlet AND your charger is hardwired? If that's right, and again focusing on protection, the gen 3 wall connector has built-in GFCI protection. The wall connector can run at 48A, so the onboard GFCI protection would be fine at that level.

I'd let your building know about this. If you complain loudly enough (and with what COULD have happened, I believe loud complaining is warranted), you might get them to come back and replace the breaker with a 60A and run 4 gauge wire to the wall connector. This assumes the gen3 is hardwired (as it can pull 48A continuously). If the gen3 is plugged into the 14-50, I don't know what happened as my understanding is it should only pull 40A.

I'm having my gen3 hardwired. 60A breaker with approx 25 ft run of 4 gauge wire. With that setup, charging at 48A continuously shouldn't be a problem. Do you agree, @doubleshot?
We have two. One that is hardwired. With 60amp breaker and a second 50amp breaker that is ran to a 1450 recep. The 1450 WC is the one in question. But the builder did come out recheck everything on both WC. everything is good in that end. It’s a WC issue. The wire run is short maybe 12 ft 15ft max.
 
In MD, a 14-50 outlet requires its own GFCI protection, irrespective of GFCI protection at the charger. @Tholland is in MD, I mentioned the requirement under code because I knew it applied to him as well. I do not know what other states require. My question to @Tholland -- was the gen 3 hardwired or plugged into the 14-50? Sorry for multiple questions/answers. I just wanted my responses to be complete.
I knew what you meant. The WC in question was plugged in to a 1450. it has always been that way since I had it. And moved from another house and never had a issue before.
 
I agree with that. That merger is great for both companies. Bugatti wants to remain king of the hill and the only way is electric. The hyperEV race will be mind boggling.

Do you think Brooks will sell all his cars to finance the Rimac?

If Tesla could produce the Roadster, the whole hypercar EV market would take a serious hit. Especially for lesser known brands. How much will the Rimac be worth used if Tesla was to release the Roadster that looks bettter (personal opinion I know) has better range and similar performance for 1/10 the price? Would Brooks be willing to take that kind of gamble? We’ll see soon enough I guess.

I think he will pass.
That's the biggest issue IMO. I remember either some guy posting here or that I saw it somehow, where on the Porsche forum, by far the biggest thread is: "Is Tesla an existential threat?" Which I thought was hilarious tbh. Tesla is going to exacerbate those companies' thinking with Roadster.
Think if the Roadster has 700+ mile range, 0-60 in 1.84 to spite the Rimac, 1/4 mile in the mid 8s, and costs $200,000! It will be crazy.
 
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So after watching @MrExitStrategy's YT video about quality issues, Demuro's video, and reading the Model S issues thread, here's my updated plan/thoughts:

- seems like the software is half baked. Tesla's software will always have glitches and stuff like that (just like any sw), but some of the stuff seems sort of egregious at the moment.

- promised features (notably, ANC) aren't there yet and we may be 3-6 months from those.

- quality on many of the cars just seems bad. squeaks, rattles, loose pieces, imperfections abound. I've watched a handful of videos + read that issues thread here and a lot of this stuff seems very common.

So, here's what Im going to try and do:

- I ordered a LR Model 3 4 days ago. Website said November, initially it said November, now says Sept 18-30 (LOL, like I'd take delivery EOQ). If that comes in the next few weeks, Ill take it, if they try EOQ Ill push it back (as I am OOT anyway).

- My LR Model S says October 21-November 10 right now. Whenever it does show up, Im going to tell my SA that I can't take it for a variety of reasons and my hope is that they push me off until Q1 or later of 2022. Tesla needs a revision on the new model s, imo.

- personally, I do have a lot of interest in a new model y from Texas (depending on the changes they make) and the Rivian (pre-order is in, not likely until Q4 2022).

I will let you all know when I get a Model S VIN still, but my hope is just to take it next year, assuming they have found and corrected some things.

IF Tesla refuses to honor the initial reservation price because I dont/cant take delivery of the Model S, then Im going to cancel and go with something else. Hey, you made me wait 8+ months, so...

Anyway, I'll stay here, lurk around and make smartass comments (and let you know when my initial model s VIN comes in), but at this point sadly, I dont think I feel comfortable taking the S at this time. Too much money for me to deal with that stuff.
 
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So after watching @MrExitStrategy's YT video about quality issues and reading the LR Model S issues thread, here's my updated plan/thoughts:

- seems like the software is half baked. Tesla's software will always have glitches and stuff like that (just like any sw), but some of the stuff seems sort of egregious at the moment.

- promised features (notably, ANC) aren't there yet and we may be 3-6 months from those.

- quality on many of the cars just seems bad. squeaks, rattles, loose pieces, imperfections abound. I've watched a handful of videos + read that issues thread here and a lot of this stuff seems very common.

So, here's what Im going to try and do:

- I ordered a LR Model 3 4 days ago. Website said November, initially it said November, now says Sept 18-30 (LOL, like I'd take delivery EOQ). If that comes in the next few weeks, Ill take it, if they try EOQ Ill push it back (as I am OOT anyway).

- My LR Model S says October 21-November 10 right now. Whenever it does show up, Im going to tell my SA that I can't take it for a variety of reasons and my hope is that they push me off until Q1 or later of 2022. Tesla needs a revision on the new model s, imo.

- personally, I do have a lot of interest in a new model y from Texas (depending on the changes they make) and the Rivian (pre-order is in, not likely until Q4 2022).

I will let you all know when I get a Model S VIN still, but my hope is just to take it next year, assuming they have found and corrected some things.

IF Tesla refuses to honor the initial reservation price because I dont/cant take delivery of the Model S, then Im going to cancel and go with something else. Hey, you made me wait 8+ months, so...

Anyway, I'll stay here, lurk around and make smartass comments (and let you know when my initial model s VIN comes in), but at this point sadly, I dont think I feel comfortable taking the S at this time. Too much money for me to deal with that stuff.
Why don’t you want to take delivery EOQ?
 
That's the biggest issue IMO. I remember either some guy posting here or that I saw it somehow, where on the Porsche forum, by far the biggest thread is: "Is Tesla an existential threat?" Which I thought was hilarious tbh. Tesla is going to exacerbate those companies' thinking with Roadster.
Think if the Roadster has 700+ mile range, 0-60 in 1.84 to spite the Rimac, 1/4 mile in the mid 8s, and costs $200,000! It will be crazy.

Would love it!