Mike_Schlechter
Model S - P457
I have to agree. I've now done this at least four times, and I've only had the car since Wednesday. It is a safety issue and a rare miss in the design.
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Model S Technical / Mechanical Issues
- Thread starter DrComputer
- Start date
I have to agree. I've now done this at least four times, and I've only had the car since Wednesday. It is a safety issue and a rare miss in the design.
lolachampcar
Well-Known Member
Norbert
TSLA will win
I remember pedal overlaps happening a few times in my last ICE, except it didn't give a warning. It may be a more common thing than we'd think, without warnings. Such a warning feature is apparently quite unique. A warning, in itself, is not a safety issue. For example, it would be much worse if some drivers would miss the brake pedal because of a larger spacing, in a situation where it is really needed. Perhaps Tesla has carefully evaluated the situation. We need to have some trust that Tesla is committed to finding the best solution, and if there are any problems, make sure to communicate them to Tesla Service directly. I suppose we should allow Delivery Specialists to focus on the deliveries themselves (at least in general).
mnx
2018 M3P
kishdude
P #130
Ok all,
got my car delivered on Sunday evening and wanted to post on issues (latest firmware). Overall the car is awesome.
Issues others have had:
1) FM reception - no problems
2) buzzing with ambient lighting - haven't noticed this
3) volume control has too large an adjustment with each click - don't notice this
4) headlamp fogging - this I noticed for a short 5 minutes after a quick drive last night in the passenger side headlamp - it went away after sitting in the garage and I haven't noticed it since then.
Here are the issues that I have had with resolutions where available:
1) Sunroof wouldn't open fully - This was strange. When I slid the control back to say 50% the roof would only open to the vent position and stop. Then if I slid back to 50% again then the roof would go all the way back to 50%. I thought this was a design feature, but was told by my Telsa ranger Nick (great guy by the way) that this was not so. He came and looked at the car and thought maybe the roof had to be replaced - not something going over well with me. After a few calls to some Tesla repair guys in California, they said that they had run into this before and that the culprit is some extra sealant that gets near the track of the sunroof mechanism that causes it to stop prematurely. Sure enough, we found the extra sealant and removed this and the roof now works fine. Great database of problems that they have!
2) The car would charge on 110v but not 240v. This was not a Telsa issue but I'm putting it here so that if anyone else has this problem, here is the solution. When I plugged into the 240V NEMA 14-50 - the car would not charge - even the light on the charger would not light up. I had my electrician come by and check the outlet and it showed power to both hot outlets. Had Nick from Tesla come by with a different charge cable with the same result (can charge on 110 but not 240). My breaker box didn't have any available slots to put in a new 50-amp breaker so my electrician had used a half-height 50-amp breaker. This breaker is still 50 amp rated and has the two phases needed for 240V but is half-height. Thinking that this may be the problem, we switched the connection to another full-height 50-amp breaker and everything worked. I guess that there is something about the half-height breaker that the charger doesn't like.
3) My screen shows 19inch wheels while my car has 21 inch wheels - this was fixed by Nick.
4) Homelink issues. Programming my gate - I have a gate at the end of my driveway with a remote. I've programmed my other cars homelink for this with no problems. The Tesla did learn the code, but it takes me pressing and holding the button on my transmitter on my button for 20 seconds for it to learn. The problem is that when I try to open the gate using home link, The gate starts to open and quickly closes again. It is like the home link is sending two signals each time I press it or the signal is being sent for too long a period of time and the gate thinks that there are two signals being sent- an open and a close. I'm going to try to resolve this with my DS. The second issue is that when in reverse, the backup camera automatically displays on screen which is fine. The problem is that this overlays on top of the home link display such that only the top line of the home link display is shown (in my case it is for my garage door). The problem for me is that I have to back out of the garage and I also have a gate at the end of the driveway. With the car in reverse and the backup camera displayed, this gate item is covered up. Therefore I have to put the car back in park, open the gate, and then finish backing out of my driveway. I think Tesla should overlay the home link on top of the backup camera display which would fix this.
5) Bluetooth audio issue - I have an iPhone and I've been able to pair this over bluetooth and the music plays great using the bluetooth connection. But when I stop the car and get back in, I have to reselect my phone and start playing the media again each time. I would think that the car should remember this and automatically do this. Hopefully this will be fixed by a future update.
But like I said, the car is awesome!
got my car delivered on Sunday evening and wanted to post on issues (latest firmware). Overall the car is awesome.
Issues others have had:
1) FM reception - no problems
2) buzzing with ambient lighting - haven't noticed this
3) volume control has too large an adjustment with each click - don't notice this
4) headlamp fogging - this I noticed for a short 5 minutes after a quick drive last night in the passenger side headlamp - it went away after sitting in the garage and I haven't noticed it since then.
Here are the issues that I have had with resolutions where available:
1) Sunroof wouldn't open fully - This was strange. When I slid the control back to say 50% the roof would only open to the vent position and stop. Then if I slid back to 50% again then the roof would go all the way back to 50%. I thought this was a design feature, but was told by my Telsa ranger Nick (great guy by the way) that this was not so. He came and looked at the car and thought maybe the roof had to be replaced - not something going over well with me. After a few calls to some Tesla repair guys in California, they said that they had run into this before and that the culprit is some extra sealant that gets near the track of the sunroof mechanism that causes it to stop prematurely. Sure enough, we found the extra sealant and removed this and the roof now works fine. Great database of problems that they have!
2) The car would charge on 110v but not 240v. This was not a Telsa issue but I'm putting it here so that if anyone else has this problem, here is the solution. When I plugged into the 240V NEMA 14-50 - the car would not charge - even the light on the charger would not light up. I had my electrician come by and check the outlet and it showed power to both hot outlets. Had Nick from Tesla come by with a different charge cable with the same result (can charge on 110 but not 240). My breaker box didn't have any available slots to put in a new 50-amp breaker so my electrician had used a half-height 50-amp breaker. This breaker is still 50 amp rated and has the two phases needed for 240V but is half-height. Thinking that this may be the problem, we switched the connection to another full-height 50-amp breaker and everything worked. I guess that there is something about the half-height breaker that the charger doesn't like.
3) My screen shows 19inch wheels while my car has 21 inch wheels - this was fixed by Nick.
4) Homelink issues. Programming my gate - I have a gate at the end of my driveway with a remote. I've programmed my other cars homelink for this with no problems. The Tesla did learn the code, but it takes me pressing and holding the button on my transmitter on my button for 20 seconds for it to learn. The problem is that when I try to open the gate using home link, The gate starts to open and quickly closes again. It is like the home link is sending two signals each time I press it or the signal is being sent for too long a period of time and the gate thinks that there are two signals being sent- an open and a close. I'm going to try to resolve this with my DS. The second issue is that when in reverse, the backup camera automatically displays on screen which is fine. The problem is that this overlays on top of the home link display such that only the top line of the home link display is shown (in my case it is for my garage door). The problem for me is that I have to back out of the garage and I also have a gate at the end of the driveway. With the car in reverse and the backup camera displayed, this gate item is covered up. Therefore I have to put the car back in park, open the gate, and then finish backing out of my driveway. I think Tesla should overlay the home link on top of the backup camera display which would fix this.
5) Bluetooth audio issue - I have an iPhone and I've been able to pair this over bluetooth and the music plays great using the bluetooth connection. But when I stop the car and get back in, I have to reselect my phone and start playing the media again each time. I would think that the car should remember this and automatically do this. Hopefully this will be fixed by a future update.
But like I said, the car is awesome!
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Thanks kishdud, great write-up of the issues! wrt the breaker, a 1/2 height 50amp breaker doesn't seem right. My electrician had to re-arrange my existing breakers so that he could get room for a full-height breaker, and never even mentioned using 1/2 height. An electrician on the forum can probably chime in here, but I'd say something was fishy with your electrician's initial installation.
Did you try putting the key in the "no power" position, in the lower side of the front windscreen, passenger side?
I'll bet both hot sides were on the same phase. If it were wired that way, Model S would see NO voltage across its input.
And once again, anyone that expresses a concern, in the "mechanical issues" thread no less, immediately risks the tar and feathers routine. DrComputer, I've given you a +1 reputation to counter the negative ones you'll likely receive.
Mike_Schlechter
Model S - P457
@Steve841 any news? I'm keenly interested in what went wrong and how Tesla responded. I hope it all gets sorted shortly!
sublimaze1
8Dec2012 / Leeroy Jenkins
I guess I'm not as OCD as my wife. She noticed this right off the bat - and I've been driving it over a week.
sublimaze1
8Dec2012 / Leeroy Jenkins
+1 av99 - I actually play the "let's see if I can judge the distance to the stop sign and not touch anything" game quite frequently. Note to self: Change Brake Pads at 250,000 miles ....
NigelM
Recovering Member
Ditto. Probably why my projected range was always ~20-30miles over my rated range (pre-firmware update)
Since I have the same issue, can you please either take a picture or describe exactly where you found this extra sealant?
Did you notice the huge gap between the frunk hood and the fenders?...on both demo cars in Portland the gap goes small then gets huge!
kevincwelch
Active Member
My car has alignment issues as well. My chrome is a bit misaligned in areas, as is the trunk and one of the front quarter panels. Nothing major, but yes, a bit disappointing at this juncture.
Mod Note: the discussions regarding pedal sizing/spacing have gone into their own thread: Model S Brake Accelerator Pedal Positions
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steve841
Active Member
I had both remotes.. And I tried that too.
1:00pm. Still no response from Dania service center. Spoke to them early 9am ish. Called again at noon... Still NOTHING!
They are implying 12v battery but I never saw any warnings...
Unfortunately roadside is totally worthless. All they suggest is tow. Funny that there is no power, no way to shift or raise the vehicle and they still suggest towing.
UPDATE.. They just called and we have a date set for 4pm today.
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It's likely they used a half-height double-pole breaker (e.g., GE type THQP) in a slot that wasn't intended to have a double-pole breaker. There are only certain positions in most panels in which tandem breakers can be used -- they don't have the stabs for 240V service.
Either that, or they wired it up as a 50A, 120V circuit instead, but then I'd have to ask where you found your electrician...
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That's what happens when a half-height double-pole breaker is used in the wrong slot. The two hots end up on the same buss stab. This could also happen if someone did something very unsafe, like using 2 non-joined single-pole breakers in the wrong slots, but in that case I'd have to ask who the electrician was and bop them on the head.
Nit-pick: it's "same leg". With rare exception, home services are center-tapped, single-phase.
