Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Modern Spare for Model Y

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
It wasn't a nail, it was the sidewall that took some damage on the rugged road and then blew out.

I do separately carry a good compressor. Fwiw the one I carry currently and am happy with is

Yeah, I'm definitely going to upgrade my jack. I haven't started looking at the options, but thanks for the link to some suggestions for what to get
Yeah I used to 4 wheel with my Toyota for years but the MY’s just aren’t made for it IMO - wait for the cybertruck!
 
I got a 2.5T Jack from Amazon. I had to remove the top rail guide, and screwed instead a hockey puck.
I would also recommend getting a second jack, I have an aluminium Audi/Porsche Jack for the front.
I also installed a hockey puck on top of it.

The second jack helped me to raised first a little bit the car (I have a Model 3)
I put the smaller jack to the front location (under the driver door).

I could then insert the rear jack to the rear location (under the rear passenger door) after raising a little bit the front.
Having two jacks help also to make raising the car less difficult, as I alternatively was lifting the front and the rear jacks.

I would also recommend to carry a square 12" piece of plywood to put under each jack, for better stability especially on dirt.

2Ton Jack .jpg Audi Porsche Jack .jpg
 
A bottle jack could work. Bottle jacks can lift heavy trucks, can certainly lift vehicles within the weight range of the Tesla Model Y. The low clearance bottle jack I have found needs ~6.25 inches of clearance to fit underneath the vehicle. The Tesla Model Y's ground clearance is 6.6 inches, slightly less for the Performance Model Y. With such limited clearance you would not be able to use a lift puck.

If your tire is flat you might also need to drive one wheel up onto a board for the additional height needed to enable the bottle jack to slide underneath the vehicle. If the ground was soft you could dig a shallow hole, place the bottle jack inside the hole to fit underneath the vehicle.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L1QRK5Y/
 
Last edited:
A bottle jack could work. Bottle jacks can lift heavy trucks, can certainly lift vehicles within the weight range of the Tesla Model Y. The low clearance bottle jack I have found needs ~6.25 inches of clearance to fit underneath the vehicle. The Tesla Model Y's ground clearance is 6.6 inches, slightly less for the Performance Model Y. With such limited clearance you would not be able to use a lift puck.

If your tire is flat you might also need to drive one wheel up onto a board for the additional height needed to enable the bottle jack to slide underneath the vehicle. If the ground was soft you could dig a shallow hole, place the bottle jack inside the hole to fit underneath the vehicle.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L1QRK5Y/
Did you check the height with a flat tire? If I recall you need to well below 4” with a flat on a model 3. And about 6-7” of lift.

Bottle jacks tend to be tall, tippy and not a lot of lift. About the worst thing you can use.

Good luck digging a hole in winter.

There are plenty of better choices than a bottle jack.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: jcanoe
The biggest failure for the modern spare kit is the included jack. The metal bent and it collapsed.

Sorry your Modern Spare jack failed. Can you describe better how it bent? Do you think it might not have been square to the car? Their jack looks like the one described by Watts_Up, if I remember right. His advice to carry along a 12" square of plywood might help.

I love the ratcheting action of that jack and have used it to remove tires a couple of times (flat discovered at home, hauled the bad tire into town for a repair). Planning to use it to tediously rotate tires as needed.
 
Did you check the height with a flat tire? If I recall you need to well below 4” with a flat on a model 3. And about 6-7” of lift.
Bottle jacks tend to be tall, tippy and not a lot of lift. About the worst thing you can use.
Good luck digging a hole in winter.
There are plenty of better choices than a bottle jack.
It's were have a second cissor jack can be very helpful on the other lift location,
help for lifting up a little bit the car, allowing inserting then a car jack near the location of the deflated tire.

The scissor jack is a light duty jack. If you plan to regularly lift the Tesla vehicle then a floor jack would be faster, easier to use and safer.
I don't know about the Model Y, but for the Model 3 you need a very low (and more pricey) floor jack.
But using first a secondery scissor jack to lift the front then allow you to use a floor jack that you might previously purchase.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 101dals
I love the ratcheting action of that jack and have used it to remove tires a couple of times (flat discovered at home, hauled the bad tire into town for a repair). Planning to use it to tediously rotate tires as needed.
I agree that the ratcheting is nicer to use than the cumbersome crank mechanism, requiring a lot of space, making it also difficult to use on a side road.

cissor jack .jpg
 
I agree that the ratcheting is nicer to use than the cumbersome crank mechanism, requiring a lot of space, making it also difficult to use on a side road.

View attachment 792511
Would an 18V or 20V cordless drill have enough torque to raise the Tesla Model Y using a scissor jack? That's what I would want to bring on a trip. I would also bring a 21mm socket and socket adapter for the drill for starting the lug nuts. I have even thought about whether the reaming tool in a tire plug kit could be fitted to the cordless drill. (Reaming a tire puncture hole takes a lot of effort as you have to push the reaming tool through the steel cords inside the tire.)
 
Would an 18V or 20V cordless drill have enough torque to raise the Tesla Model Y using a scissor jack? That's what I would want to bring on a trip. I would also bring a 21mm socket and socket adapter for the drill for starting the lug nuts. I have even thought about whether the reaming tool in a tire plug kit could be fitted to the cordless drill. (Reaming a tire puncture hole takes a lot of effort as you have to push the reaming tool through the steel cords inside the tire.)

Yes, a really beefy cordless should work.

Whenever I see something like this, I think is keeping yet another battery charged more work than the amount of work it’s trying to save? And if I have to remember to only bring it on that trips I need it for. It will be that one trip I need it I skip it or forget. I don’t want to think about anything.

That’s why I like a simple GOOD scissors jack and ratchet. And a manual plug kit. Yeah it will be slow. But I might never need it and way faster than a tow truck.

Although I have used it once already and it was a front tire so it didn’t need to remove tire. And I got the damn flat from being smart and pulling over to do something on the phone than trying to do it why driving. This was on a slow road with nobody around.

I also avoid reaming as much as possible. More likely to damage a cord. I sometimes thin the plug too, to get it in. Less is more.

It’s crazy to ream out a finish nail puncture. But it can be a bitch getting even a thinned out plug in.

I’ve never had a plug fail. I thought I did once and redid it a couple times. Turns out I had two punctures.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: jcanoe
Yes, a really beefy cordless should work.

Whenever I see something like this, I think is keeping yet another battery charged more work than the amount of work it’s trying to save? And if I have to remember to only bring it on that trips I need it for. It will be that one trip I need it I skip it or forget. I don’t want to think about anything.

That’s why I like a simple GOOD scissors jack and ratchet. And a manual plug kit. Yeah it will be slow. But I might never need it and way faster than a tow truck.

Although I have used it once already and it was a front tire so it didn’t need to remove tire. And I got the damn flat from being smart and pulling over to do something on the phone than trying to do it why driving. This was on a slow road with nobody around.

I also avoid reaming as much as possible. More likely to damage a cord. I sometimes thin the plug too, to get it in. Less is more.

It’s crazy to ream out a finish nail puncture. But it can be a bitch getting even a thinned out plug in.

I’ve never had a plug fail. I thought I did once and redid it a couple times. Turns out I had two punctures.
I bought my plug kit from Home - Safety Seal
I have no affiliation with Safety Seal but the kit is Made in the USA (not China) with beefy tools and two different size of self vulcanizing plugs so you don't have to thin them.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: MaskedRacerX
Yes, a really beefy cordless should work.

Whenever I see something like this, I think is keeping yet another battery charged more work than the amount of work it’s trying to save? And if I have to remember to only bring it on that trips I need it for. It will be that one trip I need it I skip it or forget. I don’t want to think about anything.

That’s why I like a simple GOOD scissors jack and ratchet. And a manual plug kit. Yeah it will be slow. But I might never need it and way faster than a tow truck.

Although I have used it once already and it was a front tire so it didn’t need to remove tire. And I got the damn flat from being smart and pulling over to do something on the phone than trying to do it why driving. This was on a slow road with nobody around.

I also avoid reaming as much as possible. More likely to damage a cord. I sometimes thin the plug too, to get it in. Less is more.

It’s crazy to ream out a finish nail puncture. But it can be a bitch getting even a thinned out plug in.

I’ve never had a plug fail. I thought I did once and redid it a couple times. Turns out I had two punctures.
I once posted about plugging tires on a BMW board and this retired tire guy, who apparently was an expert witness at trials if he's to be believed, went almost full blown Scanners (showing my age) on me re the hazards of plugging tires and how I could end up on the witness stand, etc.... I had a bit of fun with him.... :)
 
  • Funny
Reactions: mswlogo
I once posted about plugging tires on a BMW board and this retired tire guy, who apparently was an expert witness at trials if he's to be believed, went almost full blown Scanners (showing my age) on me re the hazards of plugging tires and how I could end up on the witness stand, etc.... I had a bit of fun with him.... :)
I think the HUGE inside plug-patches potentially do more structural harm than a outside plug. They ream out huge holes and you can hear they filing against the cords.

Using a simple plug from outside is not much different than a self sealing tire.

Structurally the tire is fine (as long as it’s away from sidewall). Your just trying to keep the air in. If it doesn’t leak it’s no different than a plug patch. Neither the outside plug or the inside plug-patch is structurally holding the tire together.

Either the cord is damaged from the puncture or it isn’t. What’s done is done. Reaming it with 1/4 file is not helping.

I try to keep any on any repair. Often impossible to find after a couple 100 miles. Sometimes I spot it when I swap seasonally.