MPP AWD/Performance Coilover Impression and Installation

[dfwatt]

Thanks make sense. I got to redo my settings. My compression is turned from full soft. I had turned them the same direction as rebound.

Mountain Pass' basic guideline is correct if you are looking at the adjustment dial face on - clockwise tightens and counterclockwise loosens the valve assembly. That makes it really easy. Where things get screwy is if you're looking at the adjustment dial for the compression upside down then you can easily spin it the wrong way. It's harder to mess up the rebound because the rebound is at the top of the shock and you have to be looking at the dial from the rear or on top of the dial in terms of the front strut assembly. So there it's much harder to make that basic mistake.

 

[Eddie1218]

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I confused myself with your first pic. I didn't realize the shocks in your first pic were facing opposite of each other. Assumed that the +/- are opposite on the top and bottom. Thx for the help!!!!

 

[Eddie1218]

San Diego has a mix of excellent and horrible roads. I hit them all on a 30 min commute to work daily. I tried everyone's settings but some most were too stiff or too floaty. I tried the MPP low Grip / Technical Track Damper Settings and they were awesome on smooth roads but rough on roads near work. I +2 all the settings and dropped my tire PSI from 46 to 38 and it is perfect. Not sure what made the biggest change but this will be my DD settings

• Tire PSI 38
• Front Compression: 11
• Front Rebound: 10
• Rear Compression: 8
• Rear Rebound:9

 

[ElectricGhost]

You will not have interference with the control arms, but you will have some pokiness of the tire/wheel sticking out beyond the bodywork, in particular for the front.

Ive got gray calipers. Looking to mount some 20 x 9.0 with 255/35/20's. Do you think a +38 offset will work or should I stick with +35. I want to minimize poke, but rubbing the knuckle with the 255/35/20's is not an option.

For now I've got UPP mild springs (0.5 in drop) until I have money for MPP coil overs (next after the wheels!).

 

[MountainPass]

San Diego has a mix of excellent and horrible roads. I hit them all on a 30 min commute to work daily. I tried everyone's settings but some most were too stiff or too floaty. I tried the MPP low Grip / Technical Track Damper Settings and they were awesome on smooth roads but rough on roads near work. I +2 all the settings and dropped my tire PSI from 46 to 38 and it is perfect. Not sure what made the biggest change but this will be my DD settings

• Tire PSI 38
• Front Compression: 11
• Front Rebound: 10
• Rear Compression: 8
• Rear Rebound:9

I am back to the low grip/technical track settings for daily driving and loving it!

 

[SK360]

I am back to the low grip/technical track settings for daily driving and loving it!

Accidently charged to 100% yesterday so went for a ride last night to burn some off, the RE's are still on it and dampers are still in low grip/technical track settings (I have an event every Sunday until June). Wife went with me. Had to apologize when we hit the really rough road by the house lol. Otherwise I love it. Will go back to 10/8 when I put my stock wheels back on so I don't have to hear about it as much

 

[MOD220]

noob question, but how easy is it to adjust ride height, and do the coilovers cause any toe/camber issues, any additional adjustments they provide versus lowering springs to avoid killing tires?

 

[SK360]

Ride height is easy to adjust on each corner with the included wrench. The rear adjusters can be challenging to get leverage on but once you figure it out it's pretty easy.

Coilovers themselves would have no ability to provide any alignment adjustments, my rear camber ended up at -1.5 at my ride height which is right what I was looking for however my factory toe adjustment is basically maxed out to give 0 toe.

 

[dfwatt]

noob question, but how easy is it to adjust ride height, and do the coilovers cause any toe/camber issues, any additional adjustments they provide versus lowering springs to avoid killing tires?

With any of the Mountain Pass coilovers set ~an inch to an inch and a half below stock ride height you're not going to get into camber issues that would really chew up tires. Indeed the lowering typically provides some useful negative camber for both front and rear suspensions which do just great on the street at around 1 to 1 and 1/2 degrees negative. That's not enough for the track but it's good for the street. You will need the car realigned because the camber changes will also produce toe changes and that will chew up your tires. However a useful adjunct to the coilover kits are the mountain pass rear camber arms and if you're more ambitious there's also an upper control arm for the front suspension that allows you to dial in more or less negative camber. Most people don't need those and again typically camber is still within spec if you're not slamming the car.

 

[MOD220]

Thank you, would it be a lot easier doing camber bars during coilover install? Rather not buy them if I don’t need them, but if it’s a whole new install expense vs just popping them in when coilovers go in, might be worth considering.

 

[dfwatt]

Thank you, would it be a lot easier doing camber bars during coilover install? Rather not buy them if I don’t need them, but if it’s a whole new install expense vs just popping them in when coilovers go in, might be worth considering.

In the front yes the upper control arms probably would save you quite a bit of grief if they're installed with the coilovers. In the rear it's a different story and you can take the rear camber arms and put them in anytime you like it's pretty easy.

 

[SK360]

Ok I designed a replacement knob so that you can drill a small hole and then leave your trunk plastics in place. Here is the CAD file:

KW Coilover Knob (For Long Reach Applications) by Davidss

View attachment 485877 View attachment 485878


Ok I made a ride height gauge and got it measured:
Ride Height Gauge 90-130mm For Tesla by Davidss

Front Left: 110mm (perch height 58mm)
Front Right: 108mm (perch height 74mm)
Rear Left: 109mm
Rear Right: 114mm

This is with the factory 20" performance wheels/tires.

Just wanted to say thanks for the CAD file. Finally drilled my Frunk and had a buddy with a 3D printer make me one. Not planning on leaving it in but rather just making a longer tool to change each side. The clicks are so light I like having the reference point. Now I just need to find a long enough hex key to sacrifice

 

[whatsupsor]

With any of the Mountain Pass coilovers set ~an inch to an inch and a half below stock ride height you're not going to get into camber issues that would really chew up tires. Indeed the lowering typically provides some useful negative camber for both front and rear suspensions which do just great on the street at around 1 to 1 and 1/2 degrees negative. That's not enough for the track but it's good for the street. You will need the car realigned because the camber changes will also produce toe changes and that will chew up your tires. However a useful adjunct to the coilover kits are the mountain pass rear camber arms and if you're more ambitious there's also an upper control arm for the front suspension that allows you to dial in more or less negative camber. Most people don't need those and again typically camber is still within spec if you're not slamming the car.

Thanks for all the great info.

If toe is the biggest issue with regards to tire wear, would you recommend getting the rear toe arm? I'm only planning on lowering the car 3/4" - 1" so I'm hoping I won't need any other components besides the adj comfort coilovers.

Thanks.

 

[dfwatt]

Thanks for all the great info.

If toe is the biggest issue with regards to tire wear, would you recommend getting the rear toe arm? I'm only planning on lowering the car 3/4" - 1" so I'm hoping I won't need any other components besides the adj comfort coilovers.

Thanks.

Rear toe is adjustable and front toe is adjustable on the car stock but the rear toe is one of those Funky eccentric cam Contraptions that overtime become Rusty and extremely difficult to use. The toe arm that MPP makes is a breeze to adjust on the other hand and it means you don't have to worry about rust on the Eccentric cam mechanism you can just leave the bolt tight and forget about it.

 

[whatsupsor]

Rear toe is adjustable and front toe is adjustable on the car stock but the rear toe is one of those Funky eccentric cam Contraptions that overtime become Rusty and extremely difficult to use. The toe arm that MPP makes is a breeze to adjust on the other hand and it means you don't have to worry about rust on the Eccentric cam mechanism you can just leave the bolt tight and forget about it.

Thanks for the great answer. Just waiting now to buy the coilovers and for the family to go to Hawaii so I can install it on the downlow.

 

[Davidss2]

Just wanted to say thanks for the CAD file. Finally drilled my Frunk and had a buddy with a 3D printer make me one. Not planning on leaving it in but rather just making a longer tool to change each side. The clicks are so light I like having the reference point. Now I just need to find a long enough hex key to sacrifice

View attachment 662090View attachment 662092

Where did you get those rubber plugs at? Makes it look a lot cleaner!

 

[SK360]

Where did you get those rubber plugs at? Makes it look a lot cleaner!

I have this rubber grommet set, found a size in there that worked

 

[skrtskrt]

I'm thinking of getting coilovers but the whole conversation of "compression" and "you have to turn it counter clock wise x amount of times" etc is a little overwhelming for me. How much of this do I actually have to worry about?

 

[Mash]

I'm thinking of getting coilovers but the whole conversation of "compression" and "you have to turn it counter clock wise x amount of times" etc is a little overwhelming for me. How much of this do I actually have to worry about?

Adjustment is easy - 2 knobs with number marks on every damper and if you're not going to the track, chances are that you won't do it at all and would keep the default settings from the manual.

 

[dfwatt]

I'm thinking of getting coilovers but the whole conversation of "compression" and "you have to turn it counter clock wise x amount of times" etc is a little overwhelming for me. How much of this do I actually have to worry about?

It's not that complicated. You can have the shop that does the install set the coilovers at the default 12/10 and just leave it. If you want to track the car that might be the only reason to move away from the default. If you want a firmer ride you can set at 10 / 8 and again just leave it.