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Performance vs. Performance Upgrade - Confused

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Maybe it's the influx of owners from... more pedestrian cars... but I have never in my life been on a car forum with so many people making up reasons to not get the full performance package performance car. Usually when you buy a performance car you end up with bigger brakes that don't fit small wheels, you end up with more fragile/bigger wheels with summer tires, none of this is a surprise. Maybe it's because most manufacturers make their performance models a complete package?

Perhaps it's unique to this car, an EV. Software is what is making most of what *I want* from the package, the rest is less interesting to me - also, and it's changed anyway, but my Stealth is just an AWD to my insurance company. That doesn't hurt either, at least now.
 
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This depends on if you're aware of the pricing prior to the P3D- being added to the website.

The price you see listed is the P3D+ price. ie with the cost of the upgrade package already built in.

The change that happened was adding the option to pay the SAME price for the P3D- (which you couldn't buy via the website at all since late 2018)


That's the opposite of the PuP being free. Instead you're paying for it regardless of if you add it or not.

But if you're unaware of the previous pricing you wouldn't realize that is what's actually going on.

I'm aware. Followed it all since day one. I can tell you that none of that matter though because none of us are looking to buy a new MP3. The site is for new prospects or new orders. To them it's free.
 
I'm aware. Followed it all since day one. I can tell you that none of that matter though because none of us are looking to buy a new MP3. The site is for new prospects or new orders. To them it's free.

That's just silly! It's NOT FREE. I mean what's next? Tesla raises the price $5k and then offers an instant $5k off? Are you going to go around telling your friends/family that the Model 3 is now $5k cheaper?

Bottom line is that the PUP is NOT free. It's the same price as it has been for months, and it's really important that new buyers are aware of this.
 
Maybe it's the influx of owners from... more pedestrian cars... but I have never in my life been on a car forum with so many people making up reasons to not get the full performance package performance car. Usually when you buy a performance car you end up with bigger brakes that don't fit small wheels, you end up with more fragile/bigger wheels with summer tires, none of this is a surprise. Maybe it's because most manufacturers make their performance models a complete package?

I'm sure that's part of it. Let me tell you it was the exact same crying on VWVortex about large wheels etc back when I had my Golf R prior to trading it in for the 3. I didn't get it then (and had no issues with the wheels), and I don't get it now. Yes, you can get whatever brakes you want for your Model 3, and yes you can replace the wheels with marginally lighter ones if you want, and yes you can get a different suspension if you want etc etc.

BUT, some of us actually like having all that stuff from the factory, with the warranty covering all of it, too. I don't have to piss about with any of it, or make posts asking why the aftermarket brakes or suspension are clicking or creaking or doing something they shouldn't be (aftermarket is not a perfect science).

Anyway, to each his own, of course.
 
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Yes you can still get it- but it does not make the car the equivalent of the P3D- it only gets you halfway there.

The P3D- is still the P3D- (well, depending what turns out to happen with track mode I guess) it just costs more than 2k extra now. It still costs LESS "more" than the LR AWD when compared to summer of 2018 though (it was a roughly $11,000 upgrade back then)




They want the quicker acceleration but don't want 20" wheels and would rather do their own, better, brake/suspension upgrades.

Yeah but its free. So if you are going to replace the 18s why not replace the 20s that are worth more second hand. Same thing with the brakes.
 
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I am at a loss to understand why anyone would pay $8000 more for a Model 3 Performance without the Performance Upgrade than an AWD Long Range, considering the only difference is a 1.2 second 0-60 improvement, when one could simply add the $2000 Performance Boost to the AWD Long Range and be within .7 seconds 0-60 of the Model 3 Performance. That extra $6000 for .7 seconds seems to be quite a premium for little return.

As others have said, might as well take the "free" Performance Upgrade package and swap out the wheels if one doesn't want 20" wheels.
 
Yeah but its free. So if you are going to replace the 18s why not replace the 20s that are worth more second hand. Same thing with the brakes.

Because I wouldn't need to replace the 18s. Unlike the 20s they're not heavy boat anchors that don't even have the decency to be wider for the weight.


I am at a loss to understand why anyone would pay $8000 more for a Model 3 Performance without the Performance Upgrade than an AWD Long Range, considering the only difference is a 1.2 second 0-60 improvement, when one could simply add the $2000 Performance Boost to the AWD Long Range and be within .7 seconds 0-60 of the Model 3 Performance. That extra $6000 for .7 seconds seems to be quite a premium for little return.

In 2018 folks were paying $11,000 for exactly that.

So obviously some people would happily pay $6000 or 8000 for it.
 
Well, yes, some people pay lots of money for incremental improvement. The high end audio world is all about that.

I don't understand it in the case of the Model 3 Performance vs. AWD + Acceleration Boost, but that's me.

I tend to agree with you. If you’re not going to get the PUP with your Model 3 Performance, get the LR AWD + $2k boost. Then again, some people just want the fastest available Model 3 (and I totally get that).

And that said, the 3P as it is now would be much more attractive if Tesla released a boost update for it, too. Make it happen, Elon!
 
Now with the way they're being sold it seems more like they're Performance and Performance +

When you count the previous Stealth, there's now so many versions it's impossible to know what car you're running into on the street.

Previous Stealth had track mode. Current Stealth doesn't (at least according to Tesla's site). Then you have the previous 3P without PUP that never had a spoiler etc - or badge!

All Model 3s are awesome, so meh! Personally never understood the whole Stealth thing, anyway. They're all Teslas!
 
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Because I wouldn't need to replace the 18s. Unlike the 20s they're not heavy boat anchors that don't even have the decency to be wider for the weight.




In 2018 folks were paying $11,000 for exactly that.

So obviously some people would happily pay $6000 or 8000 for it.

Umm boat anchors? Stock 18" wheels and tires with the Aero covers have been posted on the forums to weigh 48 lbs. When I did my first tire rotation, I weighed my 20" OEM wheels with the Pilot 4S 235/35/20 tires, total was 52 lbs each. For the extra diameter, width, and way better styling, I'd say the extra 4 lbs per corner is worth the small range penalty. Higher performance always comes with some trade-offs.
 
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Umm boat anchors? Stock 18" wheels and tires with the Aero covers have been posted on the forums to weigh 48 lbs. When I did my first tire rotation, I weighed my 20" OEM wheels with the Pilot 4S 235/35/20 tires, total was 52 lbs each.


Ahem...

The Tesla Model 3 Wheel and Tire Guide

Factory 18s- 21.6 lbs

Factory 20s- 28.75 lbs.


That's over 33% heavier going from the 18s to the 20s.

So yes, boat anchor rims.

Plus far fewer choices if you want to replace the 20s than if you wanna replace the 18s as well.


For the extra diameter, width

Again, no.

The wheels are exactly the same diameter

And the rims are exactly the same width. (hell, I even told you that already in the post you were replying to... they're both 8.5" rims.

The 20s are just heavier and more prone to damage for 0 benefit.


So you might wanna quit while you're behind on this one :)
 
When the Stealth was only $2K more than the AWD it was a very good deal. In fact it was so good that when Tesla built a bunch of Stealth cars word spread so quickly that they were all gone in a very short period of time.

Now that the AWD has a $2K software boost, it would make no sense to Tesla to keep selling the Stealth for $2K more than AWD. But it seems they have gone to the opposite extreme by now selling the Stealth for the same price as the P3D+ package. So now I suspect most people will either go for full Performance, or buy the AWD and possibly add the software boost to it.

I still find it odd that Tesla is doing this. It seems like there is a market to sell the Stealths for a price that falls between the AWD+Boost and the full Performance. Having an upgrade package that cost nothing is just weird.
 
Seem ridiculous that Tesla is making these two configurations the same price. I wanted the Stealth, but couldn't find one because all I wanted was the increased 0-60 time. Don't want a lowered car, or 20" wheels that are prone to getting flats, don't care about shiny pedals or a rear spoiler. And the larger brakes are overkill for the street, especially when the stock brakes are better than most cars have. I'll never track my car, so that option is useless to me. But I guess now I'm keeping my current Model 3 AWD LR because I won't pay the same price for a Stealth version as the Performance Upgrade option is. Don't understand Tesla's frequent price configuration changes, it's exhausting at times. And what's with the range reduction of the Performance? 310 miles down to 299 miles, with the same wheels.
 
Ahem...

The Tesla Model 3 Wheel and Tire Guide

Factory 18s- 21.6 lbs

Factory 20s- 28.75 lbs.


That's over 33% heavier going from the 18s to the 20s.

So yes, boat anchor rims.

Plus far fewer choices if you want to replace the 20s than if you wanna replace the 18s as well.

If you include the Aero wheel covers, the factory wheels have been posted on the forums as 23 lbs, the tires 25 lbs = 48 lbs. You need to compare apples to apples, factory wheel AND tire.

I weighed my personal 20" wheels and tires and measured 52 lbs, so real numbers show 8% heavier for the Performance model.
 
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And what's with the range reduction of the Performance? 310 miles down to 299 miles, with the same wheels.

The car could never do 310 miles of range on 20” wheels. They were posting incorrect information previously and I know a lot of people were complaining about it. I believe there is a rule that says that if only a small percentage of people choose an option that lowers the EPA rating they do not need to publish a separate EPA rating for just that option.

But if you look at the Tesla range chart that has been posted here frequently you will see that it was always much lower for 20” wheels.
 
Does anyone know if the $2K acceleration boost option is still available for (new) AWD vehicles now that the Performance w/out PUP seems to have replaced the ‘stealth’ configuration?

Can one purchase an AWD instead of the Performance today, then add the acceleration boost via the app after delivery, or has that gone away with the new config options?