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Plaid handling improvements: better wheels, tires, brakes, suspension options

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I wanted to get an update on these wheels from you. Still happy? Any vibration or complaints? Did they provide hubcentric spacers with the wheels or are they made to fit perfectly? Any performance run/range comparisons? I’m seriously considering these wheels over the Signature wheels which cost A LOT more for a little weight savings. Oh and about the 25 vs 25 offset for the front… would you have been able to run a small spacer on the front to give you the desired look and more match the front or do you prefer the look as is? Thanks for the responses in advance. My Plaid should be delivered here within the next month or 2. I would PM you but I’m brand new to this forum and it doesn’t give me that option yet.
After a long wait, I finally got a new 20" wheel setup for my Plaid.

The rims are flow-formed Fast Wheels FC04 in metallic black finish, specs below:
Front = 20x9.5 ET35 weighing 24.2 lbs each
Rear = 20x11 ET25 weighing 27.8 lbs each

The tires are Michelin PS4S, specs below:
Front = 275/35ZR20 XL 102(Y)
Rear = 305/30ZR20 XL 103(Y)

The rears poke out a tad more than the fronts, but Fast Wheels doesn't make that rim in 35mm offset (only 25 or 45, which would have been too far in).

But overall I think they look great, and the black metallic finish really matches the glossy "chrome delete" trim around the windows - definitely worth the ~3 week wait.

Best part: I only paid about $1,200 for the rims, including shipping from Canada and import duties! So much more affordable than forged wheels. Tires were about $1,800 total, so for $3,000 I myself got a nice set for spirited driving :)

Here are some photos from tonight:

View attachment 712981

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I wanted to get an update on these wheels from you. Still happy? Any vibration or complaints? Did they provide hubcentric spacers with the wheels or are they made to fit perfectly? Any performance run/range comparisons? I’m seriously considering these wheels over the Signature wheels which cost A LOT more for a little weight savings. Oh and about the 25 vs 25 offset for the front… would you have been able to run a small spacer on the front to give you the desired look and more match the front or do you prefer the look as is? Thanks for the responses in advance. My Plaid should be delivered here within the next month or 2. I would PM you but I’m brand new to this forum and it doesn’t give me that option yet.

Not so little for 15lb+ in rotational mass😁. Here's the weight of the SV104 20x10 & 20x11.

239028776_176204814478600_4954132291568912199_n (1).jpg
 
Not so little for 15lb+ in rotational mass😁. Here's the weight of the SV104 20x10 & 20x11.

View attachment 719686
Sounds good but…

1) you didn’t answer my question directed to you in the previous post.
2) Still not showing much (if any) performance gains in time or mph by saving 15+ lbs of rotational mass in the wheels of a Tesla Model S Plaid.
Personally for me I’m not sure if saving ~4 lbs or less per corner of rotational mass is worth the $4,500 price increase considering other wheels would still save weight and soo far from what I’ve seen still having no difference of affect on straight line acceleration in terms of time or mph. Please correct me if I’m wrong but I’ve yet to see anyone substantiate this yes by actual proof, only theory this far.
I understand how weight generally helps but again, just not seeing really any positive affects other than looks.
Don’t misunderstand, I’m still considering Signature wheels… just need to see some actual tests. Which is why I asked you if you had any updates to the testing Brooks was doing using different tire sizes. It may just be as simple as we aren’t able to get to the optimum tire size when changing to a 20” wheel to get the best acceleration from a plaid vs the OEM 19” wheels (as we are learning the OEM 21’s are slower).
 
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Sounds good but…

1) you didn’t answer my question directed to you in the previous post.
2) Still not showing much (if any) performance gains in time or mph by saving 15+ lbs of rotational mass in the wheels of a Tesla Model S Plaid.
Personally for me I’m not sure if saving ~4 lbs or less per corner of rotational mass is worth the $4,500 price increase considering other wheels would still save weight and soo far from what I’ve seen still having no difference of affect on straight line acceleration in terms of time or mph. Please correct me if I’m wrong but I’ve yet to see anyone substantiate this yes by actual proof, only theory this far.
I understand how weight generally helps but again, just not seeing really any positive affects other than looks.
Don’t misunderstand, I’m still considering Signature wheels… just need to see some actual tests. Which is why I asked you if you had any updates to the testing Brooks was doing using different tire sizes. It may just be as simple as we aren’t able to get to the optimum tire size when changing to a 20” wheel to get the best acceleration from a plaid vs the OEM 19” wheels (as we are learning the OEM 21’s are slower).
Brooks from Dragtimes and @KnoxPlaid have been able to get 1.99 (1 foot rollout) and better 0-60 with signature wheels on the street. Dragy slips are in the other thread. That should answer #2
 
From my vantage point, acceleration/decelleration improvement is likely minimal with this much less rotating mass. It's physics and I'm certain we can quantify the affect if we really wanted to spend the time (confirming real world results already reported).

The decision for me has always been the qualitative improvement in ride and handling that comes from less unsprung weight versus the cost and fragility of the rims. Moving to 20" gives me a bit more sidewall over the stock 21"s which helps with rim damage in pot holes. Using flow formed rims provides 2/3rds of the weight benefit at 1/3 to 1/2 the cost. It is the sweet spot for me.

Love those carbon composite rims but that is just plain nuts from a cost and fragility standpoint :0

The above said, knowing that Tesla's new 21s have noise deadening, I would have gone 21s and kept the stock tires. The foam makes a noticeable difference.
 
From my vantage point, acceleration/decelleration improvement is likely minimal with this much less rotating mass. It's physics and I'm certain we can quantify the affect if we really wanted to spend the time (confirming real world results already reported).

The decision for me has always been the qualitative improvement in ride and handling that comes from less unsprung weight versus the cost and fragility of the rims. Moving to 20" gives me a bit more sidewall over the stock 21"s which helps with rim damage in pot holes. Using flow formed rims provides 2/3rds of the weight benefit at 1/3 to 1/2 the cost. It is the sweet spot for me.

Love those carbon composite rims but that is just plain nuts from a cost and fragility standpoint :0

The above said, knowing that Tesla's new 21s have noise deadening, I would have gone 21s and kept the stock tires. The foam makes a noticeable difference.
I agree, the foam make a noticeable difference.

I did find on tire rack that 265/40 and 295/35 in 20” Pilot Sport 4s come with the noise foam. I will go that route on my next set of tires vs the 285/305 I’m running now with no foam.
 
From my vantage point, acceleration/decelleration improvement is likely minimal with this much less rotating mass. It's physics and I'm certain we can quantify the affect if we really wanted to spend the time (confirming real world results already reported).

The decision for me has always been the qualitative improvement in ride and handling that comes from less unsprung weight versus the cost and fragility of the rims. Moving to 20" gives me a bit more sidewall over the stock 21"s which helps with rim damage in pot holes. Using flow formed rims provides 2/3rds of the weight benefit at 1/3 to 1/2 the cost. It is the sweet spot for me.

Love those carbon composite rims but that is just plain nuts from a cost and fragility standpoint :0

The above said, knowing that Tesla's new 21s have noise deadening, I would have gone 21s and kept the stock tires. The foam makes a noticeable difference.
Well said
 
I agree, the foam make a noticeable difference.

I did find on tire rack that 265/40 and 295/35 in 20” Pilot Sport 4s come with the noise foam. I will go that route on my next set of tires vs the 285/305 I’m running now with no foam.
Tell me more about this foam!! I like to buy my tires as Discount Ture bc they are everywhere. I’m hoping they will be able to source this as well. I wonder if they can get it in a 305 or if it has to be closer to OEM sizes?
 
Tell me more about this foam!! I like to buy my tires as Discount Ture bc they are everywhere. I’m hoping they will be able to source this as well. I wonder if they can get it in a 305 or if it has to be closer to OEM sizes?
7174B204-4CC4-483A-AD40-221018A09A61.png

See bottom left where it say “Acoustic Tech” —> that is what you are looking for.

I only thought it came in 21”s so was surprised to find it on 20”s last week
 

I found this article interesting (may have been posted in the past). For me I noticed no perceivable audible difference between the OEM 21” Michelins and the 20” Pirelli P-Zeros (without acoustic foam) I’m running. I was *really* paying attention to it when I made the switch.
 
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My experience was with Tesla OEM Pilot Sport 4S with foam versus 20" Pilot Sport 4S without foam. Of course, the rims were changed as well and it was my obvious go to that the foam made the difference. It could well have been the rims :0. A proper back to back test changing only one component at a time would be required (which would also require 21" rims, not 20s).

Reading the article does help my OCD side by placating it with "they really are not that good". That being said, there is a noticeable difference in my car and one that is worthy of a different approach next time around to keep the sound deadening advantage.
 
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My experience was with Tesla OEM Pilot Sport 4S with foam versus 20" Pilot Sport 4S without foam. Of course, the rims were changed as well and it was my obvious go to that the foam made the difference. It could well have been the rims :0. A proper back to back test changing only one component at a time would be required (which would also require 21" rims, not 20s).

Reading the article does help my OCD side by placating it with "they really are not that good". That being said, there is a noticeable difference in my car and one that is worthy of a different approach next time around to keep the sound deadening advantage.
Fully agree re ”one component at a time” test. If acoustically insulated tires were available in the size I wanted I would have, for certain, chosen those as I’d opt for every advantage in that regard. I initially ordered the A/S Michelins but after reading reviews that they were noisy changed my order. I’m glad it worked out this time for me as these are obviously not cheap :)
 
Suspension
It is flipping massive cast aluminum stuff. The torque link in the back is perfectly placed for monster power. I think it is possible to now run less toe in on the rear and still not have rear steer on corner exit. The upper rear a-arm is now attached with two bolts through the pivot axle which makes it possible to shim out the axle mount from the chassis and reduce rear camber if necessary. Yiiiippppeee.

All load bearing joints appear to be metal on metal which explains the increased tire noise coming through the chassis. The car is quieter on most fronts but tire through chassis noise has increased on Plaid for me.

You will be VERY happy with the new suspension. I expect LRs to have exactly the same components (as this is the Tesla low part count way) so longevity is going to increase dramatically from good to excellent. Goodonya Tesla!
Apply the accelerator and brake at the same time if you're having problems getting bedded and heated up. It will eliminate the regen and keep some motor torque.