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Plug Adapter on my Universal Mobile Connector has melted...

FlasherZ

Sig Model S + Sig Model X + Model 3 Resv
Jun 21, 2012
7,024
1,013
Just got back from service where they replace my UMC. They looked at it right away and said it had to be replaced anyway because it was an early model and I heard something about a tech note on the 14-50 adapter. For those early sig owners out there, it might not be a bad thing to call your local service and ask them if you need to get yours replaced.

I dropped a note to my service center about this as well. I noted that my plug was getting very hot to the touch this weekend. I suspect I might be one of those "earlier" UMC holders.
 

NigelM

Recovering Member
Apr 3, 2011
13,386
555
Northern Virginia
I was at Tesla today (getting tires for the Roadster) and they did confirm that certain early UMC's are having the connector plug exchanged. Also asked me to drop by with the UMC at some point so they could inspect the cable.

You can check if there are any issues simply by pulling off the plug adapter and checking the inside for any signs of overheating or melting. Mine looked OK but was on the list to be changed in any case.
 
Last edited:

FlasherZ

Sig Model S + Sig Model X + Model 3 Resv
Jun 21, 2012
7,024
1,013
Thanks Nigel. Service manager and I were swapping e-mails earlier today and he mentioned he would order one for me.
 

Discoducky

P100DL, 2021 M3, 3 CT reservations and counting
Dec 25, 2011
3,413
3,211
Seattle
They overnighted a UMC from the service center( used), because they are on back order.

Vince at the LA service center is going to overnight a replacement UMC to arrive tomorrow to us in Palm Springs. Since we are leaving Wednesday morning back to Seattle it is a very necessary item and very much appreciated!

And thanks very much to FlasherZ and everyone else for all the great advice!
 

cinergi

Active Member
Sep 17, 2010
2,176
40
MA
I dropped a note to my service center about this as well. I noted that my plug was getting very hot to the touch this weekend. I suspect I might be one of those "earlier" UMC holders.

It should be cool, maybe luke-warm to the touch. Never anywhere near hot. I think mine was going well over 200F and now it runs at like 80F.
 

Puyallup Bill

Member
Sep 7, 2012
605
2
Puyallup WA
What FlasherZ says, plus you shouldn't even be able to turn it up beyond 40 amps from the touchscreen anyway.
Sorry to go off topic, but that comment raises a question. My car has dual chargers, and I have only used the charge cable with the 14-50 adapter. The charge screen shows 40 Amps available - if I use a Roadster adapter (70 Amps) or a high power wall changer, does the 40 Amp figure change?
 

dsm363

Roadster + Sig Model S
May 17, 2009
18,278
151
Nevada
Sorry to go off topic, but that comment raises a question. My car has dual chargers, and I have only used the charge cable with the 14-50 adapter. The charge screen shows 40 Amps available - if I use a Roadster adapter (70 Amps) or a high power wall changer, does the 40 Amp figure change?

You may have to dial it up on the screen but it changes. When I've plugged into a HPWC it went up to the max that was being offered (80A when I used one).
 

mknox

Well-Known Member
Aug 7, 2012
10,103
1,866
Toronto, ON
Sorry to go off topic, but that comment raises a question. My car has dual chargers, and I have only used the charge cable with the 14-50 adapter. The charge screen shows 40 Amps available - if I use a Roadster adapter (70 Amps) or a high power wall changer, does the 40 Amp figure change?

Mine is the same, and I believe it's because it senses the NEMA 14-50 adapter and "knows" 40 amps is the max it can draw from that. If I pull in to a public station, my screen shows 80 Amps until I plug in using the adapter, then it seems to adjust down to the capacity of the charger.
 

hcsharp

Active Member
Jun 7, 2011
3,373
1,340
Vermont
Mine is the same, and I believe it's because it senses the NEMA 14-50 adapter and "knows" 40 amps is the max it can draw from that. If I pull in to a public station, my screen shows 80 Amps until I plug in using the adapter, then it seems to adjust down to the capacity of the charger.

The EVSE or "charger" as they're commonly called lets the car know how many amps are available on the pilot signal. Examples of EVSE are the HPWC and the UMC. In the case of the latter, it senses which adapter you have plugged in and lets the car know the amps available from that type of receptacle. It's up to the car when it starts drawing current to make sure it doesn't draw more than the amount of amps that the EVSE said were available as communicated over the pilot signal.

- - - Updated - - -

As FlasherZ and others have pointed out, it's critical that you install any charging system, receptacle, home-made adapter, extension cord, etc using the right size of cable and breaker according to the NEC. One reason is that the UMC will auto-sense the adapter and signal the current accordingly. But if you have a weak link that can't handle the amps, you have a recipe for disaster. Please don't use a sub-standard cable or cord thinking that you will just limit the amps from the screen.
 

ElSupreme

Model S 03182
Jan 13, 2012
4,303
89
Atlanta, GA
I just looked at my adapter and UMC socket. I have a small amount of melting, and some heat build up when plugged in. I also found out that my adapter doesn't actually latch to the UMC outlet and wasn't 100% seated.

I'll give Atlanata service a call today and see what they want to do.
 

pete8314

Vendor
Jun 4, 2012
2,355
655
DFW, ex UK
Mine has melted. It was always very hot to touch up to the adaptor (not skin sizzling, but not particularly comfortable to hold onto for very long). Charging was always at 40A (via the 6-50 adaptor). Adaptor was still providing a charge to the car, and showing a single green light when not charging. Sent an email to Ownership, so waiting on reply. I'm overseas at the moment, but my wife noticed a burning smell the day I left, so she unplugged it from the car, but didn't notice the outlet had melted, until today when I asked for it to be plugged back in. I assume stuff melting inside the outlet which caused it to pull away from the wall, she's not had a chance to check. Not good.

6-50 adaptor.jpg


outlet.jpg


Plug outlet.jpg
 

markb1

Active Member
Feb 17, 2012
3,034
640
San Diego, CA
until today when I asked for it to be plugged back in.

That's crazy. Don't use a damaged outlet. Shut down the circuit breaker until all the damaged parts are replaced. This is the sort of thing that can burn down your house. And I would imagine, if your house burns down now, your insurance company will deny your claim as the outlet was used after the damage was noticed. (Not that this is the worst thing than happen when a house burns down.)

Edit: I hope I misread that. I occurred to me that my interpretation is off, and you didn't ask her to plug it back in after the problem was noticed.
 

jerry33

(S85-3/2/13 traded in) X LR: F2611##-3/27/20
Mar 8, 2012
19,565
21,936
Texas
Those photos look like a loose socket connection and not a UMC connector fault. If the plug blades are loose in the socket, especially with high currents, overheating and results like this are common.

Perhaps Tesla should supply a heavy duty receptacle. Overheating seems far more common than I would have expected. I keep mine at 32 amps as that charges fast enough for me.
 

FlasherZ

Sig Model S + Sig Model X + Model 3 Resv
Jun 21, 2012
7,024
1,013
Those photos look like a loose socket connection and not a UMC connector fault. If the plug blades are loose in the socket, especially with high currents, overheating and results like this are common.

I've seen a number of receptacles lately with loose connections, either on the ground pins or some of the hot pins. This has been especially the case on some Hubbell 14-50's that I've seen installed.
 

pete8314

Vendor
Jun 4, 2012
2,355
655
DFW, ex UK
Edit: I hope I misread that. I occurred to me that my interpretation is off, and you didn't ask her to plug it back in after the problem was noticed.

Correct :) I try not to deliberately injure my wife, or burn the house down when I'm not there :) The whole family noticed a bad smell the day I left (car was plugged in), but, of course, we'd bought a couple of packs of rubber floor mats for the other garage, so everyone assumed they were just off-gassing. My wife had previously unplugged the car thinking that was the problem, but didn't even think to look at the outlet (which is a little above eye level, expecially if you have a fringe/bangs!).

- - - Updated - - -

Those photos look like a loose socket connection and not a UMC connector fault. If the plug blades are loose in the socket, especially with high currents, overheating and results like this are common.

I don't think so. It was a very tight fit, it wasn't moving anywhere. The weight of the cable was supported by a cable hanger on the wall, so there was very little downward pull.
If you mean the actual socket/outlet fixed to the wall, then it's possible I guess. It was obviously installed after the house was built, so it's secured to the wall with the little tabs, but still, there wasn't a lot of pull on it, and I think I would have noticed the weakness when unplugging it.

My local Service Manager will be swinging by in the morning to delivery a replacement UMC (go Tesla!), obviously for use with a lowly 110v until I get the 6-50 fixed. He said over the phone (to my wife, so facts might be getting distorted) that it looked like the 'springs' in the outlet had opened up as a result of excessive heat. I've no idea what that means without seeing it myself. I'm sure he'll take a look when he's there.
 

mknox

Well-Known Member
Aug 7, 2012
10,103
1,866
Toronto, ON
I don't think so. It was a very tight fit, it wasn't moving anywhere. The weight of the cable was supported by a cable hanger on the wall, so there was very little downward pull.

If you mean the actual socket/outlet fixed to the wall, then it's possible I guess. It was obviously installed after the house was built, so it's secured to the wall with the little tabs, but still, there wasn't a lot of pull on it, and I think I would have noticed the weakness when unplugging it.

It sure looks like the heat was coming from the socket side and not the UMC. There could have been a loose connection of the house wiring to the receptacle itself which would also generate heat. This heat then caused the nearest melt-able substance (the UMC plug) to melt. You or your electrician should check the wires behind the receptacle also.
 

pete8314

Vendor
Jun 4, 2012
2,355
655
DFW, ex UK
Here's some more photos, I agree, it appears the heat was coming from inside the socket. Jack (Dallas SC Manager) did a great job of dropping by a replacement (with the shiny faceplate!) within a day, he'll be taking the melted unit to the factory today for further analysis to determine whether it's a warranty claim or if I need to pay (and go after the electrician).

melty socket3.jpg


melty socket2.jpg


melty socket1.jpg
 

FlasherZ

Sig Model S + Sig Model X + Model 3 Resv
Jun 21, 2012
7,024
1,013
Here's some more photos, I agree, it appears the heat was coming from inside the socket. Jack (Dallas SC Manager) did a great job of dropping by a replacement (with the shiny faceplate!) within a day, he'll be taking the melted unit to the factory today for further analysis to determine whether it's a warranty claim or if I need to pay (and go after the electrician).

From the pics, this *looks* like there was a loose connection from wire-to-receptacle, as if the wire wasn't fully in when tightened, or the connection weren't torqued tight enough (or at all). That said, looks can be deceiving. Good luck.
 

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