Yeah I’m starting to learn that now. Bought a cheap ICE vehicle a few years back for our 2nd vehicle. Just going to keep that and our Model Y for the time being.
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Vendor Preventative Maintenance regarding Battery Failures in early Model S vehicles (2012-2014)
- Thread starter wk057
- Start date
henderrj
Active Member
I haven't had that much problem with my December 2014 build. Little things, of course, but with over 268,000 miles on it, one can hardly complain!
Also, when you're under $25,000 purchase price on a used EV you get the tax credit. I think it's $3,750, correct? Probably should figure that into the calculation as well I suppose. I'm buying a model x, so nowhere near the $25k cap. (Which I think is unreasonably low. Should have been 50k.)
Also, when you're under $25,000 purchase price on a used EV you get the tax credit. I think it's $3,750, correct? Probably should figure that into the calculation as well I suppose. I'm buying a model x, so nowhere near the $25k cap. (Which I think is unreasonably low. Should have been 50k.)
I believe it needs to be purchased from a dealer in order to get the tax credit. I could be wrong though.
I have an October/November 2014 build Model S 85 with AP1. I have rebuilt 2 front door handles and I was going to extend the AC drain line so it didn’t drip onto the battery but it had already been extended, which I’m hoping means the battery includes some of the later improvements. I have also replaced headlight globes which are a bit tricky and a few other trim issues. Otherwise the car is on its third motor, replaced under warranty.
Not terrible for a car that recently passed 220,000Km.
Recently the battery heater has gone faulty and I have an appointment to repair it with a quote of Australian $2,500, but in the meantime it’s operating without it; it will only throw an error if you navigate to a Supercharger where it triggers battery conditioning and tries to use the battery heater.
At least that’s my theory.
Not terrible for a car that recently passed 220,000Km.
Recently the battery heater has gone faulty and I have an appointment to repair it with a quote of Australian $2,500, but in the meantime it’s operating without it; it will only throw an error if you navigate to a Supercharger where it triggers battery conditioning and tries to use the battery heater.
At least that’s my theory.
Plasmid_Boy
Member
add one more to the list. I love my 2014 P85+. I have no plan to sell it. More than once I was tempted to buy another one of similar age.
That was a sarcastic response about the Civic, but there's some helpful truth to it. A Civic is a boring, featureless, transportation appliance that only does exactly what it's supposed to and basically never needs anything. It's simple and cheap, if that's what you are wanting. Fancy gadget-filled cars like the Teslas are have more things to go wrong and break that don't really have much to do with the fuel type or drivetrain.
Exactly that’s what I meant. If you want worry free “new” transportation for 26.5k get the civic sport. I’d personally rather have the new 3 base for 31.9k but that’s just me. It’s actually impressive the 3 is competitive with such low end price points. But buying a 100k s for 18k and then whining about a potential 8k in repairs it sounds like an s isn’t the car for him
Have you all not seen the issues with Honda's 1.5T? It's in the Accord, Civic, & CR-V and is prone to oil dilution, injector issues, and head gasket failures before 80K miles. Replacing the headstuds with aftermarket after breaking in the engine seems to the solution but it's amazing that Honda which was known for robust reliability has fallen prey to the bean-counters, poor design, and endurance testing.
I don’t doubt that. I had an 04 civic vtec and it was junk at 122k. Even Honda couldn’t figure out the problem. I ended up selling it on eBay for whatever I could get. Now assuming you buy a new civic and don’t race it and take good care of it, these may problems may not show up.
Don’t get another car. That’s idiotic, you already have a car and all it needs is a shop that can work on it.
This is what I did:
P85D with an old battery that was kicking out roughly 130 ish miles on full charge (even though it said 220 on the IC). I checked out battery replacement options like wk057 replacement, but that was too pricy for me. I looked up Salvage battery packs on car-part.com and found a 100 kWh pack from a ‘19 non-raven MS. Drove with a Home Depot 3Ton and picked up the pack and drove it to a shop that can swap packs. Paid the shop 500 to do the swap. LazY did the software configuration. Went from a P85D > P100DL. (I rooted the car prior and changed the performance in the gateway.cfg so that it was Lud). Purchased a new rapid mate connector that can handle the extra amps. After the shop swapped the battery, I got 300 miles of range, faster supercharging speeds, and a MUCH faster car. I then took the old battery and removed all the modules in my garage. This was at first challenging without a fork lift. But I rented that 3 ton truck from home depot and the dumpt trailer. After I backed the battery into my driveway I dumped the battery onto some old tires in my garage. This got the old battery out of the shop so that I could harvest the modules at my own pace. I sold the modules online via FB market place and ebay. Luckly I met a local guy so we could do business outside of Ebay and save on fees. All in all, I spent roughly $6K on the swap. There are reasonably priced battery packs that will breathe new life into your Car. It won’t have a warrenty, but these packs are well built enough that you should get another 6 to 8 years without trouble. Hopefully by then, there will be more affordable solutions available. But I would check with eletricified garage and the like to see what it would cost to do a simple battery swap. Requires a car lift and a table to capture the battery once the car is lifted off it. Any collision center that does work on Tesla’s is also capable of battery swaps in the event they have to repair damage in and around the battery. You just need to pay them under the table and they will do swaps. There is nothing wrong with your car, it just needs a heart transplant. Don’t give up hope. Keep you unlimited supercharging and restore the functionality of your model s.
brainhouston
Active Member
Nice! Def the route i'd take (although i can swap myself, have access to lift)
Was 100kWh pack from P* car?
If u don't mind sharing, how much was the 100kW pack n how much u sold modules for? at least ball park, just curious...
10K for the pack. Roughly 2K in transport costs and installation misc. sold the modules for $6k. Net was roughly 6 to 7K. Pack was from a non raven 19.
Ron Burgundy
Member
Just an update, it has been almost a year, and through the summer, I have noticed on the garage floor "puddling" where the hose extension drains out. So it does appear to be working!
Now keep in mind, this is from a fairly cooler temperate Seattle climate, not the higher humidity midwest, east or SE.
iCAR
Member
Just read this thread about moisture related HV battery failures and your post referencing the p/n of your replaced battery pack. Can you post a picture of the battery label? I have a 2014 S85 with the original pack and my p/n is similar, 1014114-00-E, so maybe this group can identify the design changes(vents and condensate drain) based on the battery pack p/n?
@mr_hyde repairing his battery pack. Has Tesla's extended AC drain but still caused a rust spot on battery hump's edge where its sealed to the battery chassis. Probably way better than dumping it on the back but still could be improved. I guess at least its not salt water 
Note the rust spot is in between 2 bolt holes. Anyhow, dependent on a few sealed edges to not have intrusion.
2014 P85D 67k miles. Car lived in temperate Seattle entire life. Drain tube pic has battery pack removed so no hump.
Note the rust spot is in between 2 bolt holes. Anyhow, dependent on a few sealed edges to not have intrusion.2014 P85D 67k miles. Car lived in temperate Seattle entire life. Drain tube pic has battery pack removed so no hump.
To confirm, this upgraded/rerouted condensate drain still dumped on the flange of the hump. Part of my reassembly will be to extend it so it can drip directly to the ground like... every other OEM ever built. Seriously Tesla...@mr_hyde repairing his battery pack. Has Tesla's extended AC drain but still caused a rust spot on battery hump's edge where its sealed to the battery chassis. Probably way better than dumping it on the back but still could be improved. I guess at least its not salt water
2014 P85D 67k miles. Car lived in temperate Seattle entire life. Drain tube pic has battery pack removed so no hump.
View attachment 981313View attachment 981314
Just bought my first Tesla, a 2014 P85D. ($24k price assuaged any nervousness I had about an early model.) I read through the thread and was hoping to get help with a couple questions:
1. Is the location of the AC drain hose/accessing through frunk and rerouting different for dual motor set ups?
2 Does anyone know the outer diameter of the existing hose? I can obviously measure once I am in there but would love to already have the larger hose in hand when I do so.
1. Is the location of the AC drain hose/accessing through frunk and rerouting different for dual motor set ups?
2 Does anyone know the outer diameter of the existing hose? I can obviously measure once I am in there but would love to already have the larger hose in hand when I do so.
Here's some info with pics.
Vendor - Preventative Maintenance regarding Battery Failures in early Model S vehicles (2012-2014)
Thanks @Peter_P and @dark cloud for confirming my understanding that the extended hose doesn’t terminate downward enough to directly drain to the ground. I think the DIY done by @beastman is the correct way. Unsurprisingly, the Tesla's extension method looks like a haphazard job to me and that...
teslamotorsclub.com
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