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aerodyne
2 of 3 EV's - Defect Free!
I've been on their developers, with logs, test cases and instructions to reproduce. They recieve my feedback very politely, then never do anything with it.
MX and MX+ behave exactly the same from what I've seen. MAYBE the MX+ lasts a bit longer before hanging, but not sure if it's just placebo.
60 packets per second, that's cute! OBDLink LX does 750 packets per second if you add enough signals to the Perf tab
I suggest looking at some of the more expensive OBD2 competitors to OBDLink. But I don't think any of them are nowhere near the speed of OBDLink, but still many of them are near the price!
So, just finished reading all 26 pages....Shoulda done that first I guess, my first posts seem kinda dumb now...
First, awesome work Amund7! When the MX allows it, the App is amazing! Just knowing the car charging and consumption history since new is invaluable, (I am second owner) might save me from buying a newer car in a few years when the warranty runs out.
Now, I still have a problem with the OBDLink MX failing to connect. Last night it would not connect at all, to the MS and to an old ICE. Called CS, they are sending me a new MX, also ordered the cheaper version mentioned above on Amazon.
Is one work around to have both an MX, for logging, and the cheapo Kannwei for driving with a separate tablet?
Lastly, by some miracle in the last few weeks, is there a lead on a better solution for those that care mostly about a solid connection?
Thanks!
Does it not help to unplug/replug the MX? That always fixes mine. I think also, in my cars, the adapter goes to sleep at night (because car cuts off 12v, not sure of this, just a theory) - which makes it occur very rarely for me.
But, I see when testing a buggy beta version with heavy UI for Android, the MX hangs a lot more often. Either it's a bug in my code that I never found, or it's deeper than that, that the bluetooth stack / buffering of the phone when the phone cpu is busy causes the MX to run into a wall. OBDLink is on the case now finally, gathering logs from users and trying to understand the problem. Hopefully there will be a firmware fix (or - if it turns out that way, a bugfix in Scan My Tesla - in which case I owe OBDLink a huge apology).
There are OBD2 splitters out there readily available, so you can run 2 adapters at the same time if you so choose. Would probably be quite cool to have 1 device with 4G always logging towards Teslalogger, then the 2nd could be fast and fun in your dashboard.
Actually I have a splitter on my desk now. I can use it for testing both Android and IOS versions at the same time, also keeping Teslalogger updated, sucks to have holes in your data which I alwas get when testing other stuff.
IOS version looks so awesome! You guys are in for a surprise. Stay tuned!
aerodyne
2 of 3 EV's - Defect Free!
Hi, guys. Dont know if it is a proper topic to ask. I am author of can2sky.com free CAN bus cloud decoder.
You can upload raw log CAN bus files and see data in readable format
I have a codec for Tesla CAN bus messages but don't have any Tesla CAN bus log to test it.
If somebody can share log this would be great!
Supported formats : candump (linux), csv, trc-format (can-hacker)
More info here:
can2sky.com - manual
thanks!
You can upload raw log CAN bus files and see data in readable format
I have a codec for Tesla CAN bus messages but don't have any Tesla CAN bus log to test it.
If somebody can share log this would be great!
Supported formats : candump (linux), csv, trc-format (can-hacker)
More info here:
can2sky.com - manual
thanks!
scottf200
Well-Known Member
Looks very promising!
If you want to support Scan My Tesla can formats, they are super simple - just hex without spaces (3 chars are packet ID) - I can send you examples if you want.
Should add timestamps at some point, but it hasn't happened yet.
ratsbew
Active Member
Hello, just bought your app and the cables. I'm having trouble powering off my Model 3. I go to the menu in the car and tell it to turn power off, but as far as I can tell the car stays on. The screen goes dark, but it seems like the car stays on...(interior lights stay on and screen immediately comes back on if you open the door). Am I doing something wrong?
I waited 4-5 minutes and I can still hear pumps too.
I waited 4-5 minutes and I can still hear pumps too.
Only thing you're doing wrong is opening the door, that wakes the car up again
I like to open both rear doors, then sit in the back seat and press power off. Then wait until it goes silent. Possibly Tesla app or cloud services you use if any keeps the car awake, a shortcut to killing those is turning off "mobile access" from the Safety & Security menu (or what it's called)
ratsbew
Active Member
Thats great, i think i can do whatever I need in excel with your data. I can easily convert them in csv, i believe. And add timestamps too.
I can add your format in service when it will contain timestamps, because it is required to built plots.
send please, some to [email protected]
aerodyne
2 of 3 EV's - Defect Free!
So, got my replacement OBD MX, from ScanTool. Only took a few days, great service.
This time, I did not use the Device app, nor did I power down the car. I just plugged it in, hit the BT button, paired to my phone, opened SMT and connected right away.
Can't drive because of the Virus lockdown, but found a good way to mount the device without cutting holes or removing the cubby or interfering with my aftermarket cubby drawer. The following may only work for an older MS with the "Yacht Floor"
Coiling the adapter cable in the recess under the MCU, ran the cable from the back side to the front. There is enough gap between the cubby and trim if done at a downward angle, such that the cable is not pinched, and can be pushed, pulled or tucked in the gap.
Then, using the 3M high temp black Dual Lock (Used by Tesla in many places) I attached the cable backshell under the cubby.
If I have to unplug, I can do it easily, without even unlatching the dual lock.
This time, I did not use the Device app, nor did I power down the car. I just plugged it in, hit the BT button, paired to my phone, opened SMT and connected right away.
Can't drive because of the Virus lockdown, but found a good way to mount the device without cutting holes or removing the cubby or interfering with my aftermarket cubby drawer. The following may only work for an older MS with the "Yacht Floor"
Coiling the adapter cable in the recess under the MCU, ran the cable from the back side to the front. There is enough gap between the cubby and trim if done at a downward angle, such that the cable is not pinched, and can be pushed, pulled or tucked in the gap.
Then, using the 3M high temp black Dual Lock (Used by Tesla in many places) I attached the cable backshell under the cubby.
If I have to unplug, I can do it easily, without even unlatching the dual lock.
scottf200
Well-Known Member
MarcG
Active Member
Nice, congrats! Does that mean you also have an updated version for Android that lets you choose temperature and distance units independently from each other?
aerodyne
2 of 3 EV's - Defect Free!
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