Vendor Scan My Tesla, a CANBUS reader for Android

[AlanSubie4Life]

But in the end you can just look at 100% rated range to crosscheck this (the degradation threshold and vehicle constant for Model S 2022 is provided elsewhere here, probably)

Specifically, what I mean here is: at 94.x, I don’t think you’ll see full rated range. At 98.4kWh you certainly would. But you said you don’t see full range, so you’re probably around 94kWh or so if that is what Tessie says (this would be including buffer).

 

[aerodyne]

Specifically, what I mean here is: at 94.x, I don’t think you’ll see full rated range. At 98.4kWh you certainly would. But you said you don’t see full range, so you’re probably around 94kWh or so if that is what Tessie says (this would be including buffer).

According to Tessie, the average new pack capacity for cars at zero miles (Refresh MS) is 96.3. That implies few see full rated range on delivery. I don't think that is the case based on fleet data from Teslafi.

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

the average new pack capacity for cars at zero miles (Refresh MS) is 96.3. That implies few see full rated range on delivery.

No it does not imply that necessarily.

The degradation threshold is lower than the “FPWN” value and the pack nearly always exceeds the degradation threshold (but may not reach FPWN) at some point.

You can see full rated range and not reach FPWN for this vehicle, I believe. (Depends on the degradation threshold.)

 

[terranx]

Does scan my Tesla let you see individual motor output? With some theorizing the vibration fix coming in 2023.44 reducing the front power at certain speeds, I’d be curious to see a before and after

 

[AAKEE]

According to Tessie, the average new pack capacity for cars at zero miles (Refresh MS) is 96.3. That implies few see full rated range on delivery. I don't think that is the case based on fleet data from Teslafi.

Tessie has a lot of ”issues” if it is ok to use that term. Not to bash it, but to sort out some if them.
Tessie using OTA data can not see the nominal full pack number. They need to calculate the capacity. They do it by using the charged energy nymber and compare to the SOC change = that gives the capacity, but the whole capacity as the cars report the charged energy but adds the 1/0.955 (4.7%) buffer to this.
The cars shows the true 100% capacity at 100% but progressively hides the buffer during the drove when the SOC reduces.
Charging “Un-hides” the buffer, thus adding 4.7% more than the true charged energy to the “+XY kWh” on the screen.

So, Tessiea capacity is the whole capacity inlcuding the buffer. (They changed it from “usable” to “capacity” which was good).

Looking at the EPA tests the Plaid on 21” got 99.3 kWh out of the battery and the Plaid with 19” got 99.4kWh. This is very much inline with the 99.4 kWh full pack when new.

I did a 300 km drive to the SC today, at the SC there was 2.4% used from I leaved the car until getting it ~ 6hrs later (part of it was waiting before/after service with sentry on.
I drove another 132 km on the way back before charging (btw, very happy with 432km highway winter range in -8C) including preconditioning for supercharging.
88kWh was used (driving) plus the 2.4% at the SC plus 3% rest at arrival.

I had 4.5% buffer, 3% left and SC burned 2.4%. Thats about 9.9% of the total capacity not used to drive.
88/0.901= 97.7 kWh.

Look at the lower picture for NFP and nominal remaining!

What I mean is that the original capacity in normal cases is close to the FPWN and the energy delivered in the EPA test.

Plaid EPA test:

S LR EPA test:

The BMS is probably wrong initially, reporting much lower than the true value.

My had 95.7kWh the day after delivery (after a 1000 km drive home).

I thought it was too low and did a check (described on a few other places here), which confirmed the capacity to be 98kWh despite the BMS NFP value still below 96kWh.

So the initial capacity value is not the same thing as the initial or new capacity.
I think 99.4 kWh is the correct number to start from.

 

[AAKEE]

Filtering out the 21" wheel fleet data.

Well yes!

I made a ticket about that this summer but dodnt hear anything since.

I once tried to change the wheels to 19” and from that day 637km is my high range, and despite maxing out the displayed range like today, teslafi shows me a 12% “loss”.

While this is “true data” it is not valuable for me.
The data need to be separated wheel selection wise.

Pack temperature

Is most certainly not coming with the OTA data. If it was, I’m sure tessie, teslafi etc would have given them to us.

Seeing the NFP. If you know how to do this on Teslafi, let me know)

Is not coming with the OTA API data.
Teslafi has only range and no capacity number due to this.
Tessie makes their own calculation (its not hard to do that based on delta SOC and added energy) simply because the NFP data isnt there in the OTA API.

To get the real interresting data, straight from the BMS with (almost) no “guesstimates” like for example Tessie does you should get scan my tesla.
Teslafi also guesstimates the full range by the SOC after charge and the range. This gives a rounded result often jumping up and down several km and in average it shows a lowef range than teslafi does.
When the NFP is the same, the calculated range should be about the same which it is when looking at Scan my tesla/tealalogger.
A stable flat line, above the teslafi line.

 

[AAKEE]

No it does not imply that necessarily.

The degradation threshold is lower than the “FPWN” value and the pack nearly always exceeds the degradation threshold (but may not reach FPWN) at some point.

You can see full rated range and not reach FPWN for this vehicle, I believe. (Depends on the degradation threshold.)

Yes, on the Plaid I think the full range is reached at about 97 kWh, give or take 0.5kWh.
I do not know for the LR, but it shouldn’t be too far away.

 

[David99]

What's the cable/adapter I need for the newest Model Y?

 

[scottf200]

What's the cable/adapter I need for the newest Model Y?

Perhaps these: Model 3/Y CAN Diagnostic Cable (For 2021+ Model)

 

[scottf200]

Does scan my Tesla let you see individual motor output? With some theorizing the vibration fix coming in 2023.44 reducing the front power at certain speeds, I’d be curious to see a before and after

Testing using ScanMyTesla software connected to canbus on my '17 TMX

With range mode

Regen uses both still.

 

[David99]

Perhaps these: Model 3/Y CAN Diagnostic Cable (For 2021+ Model)

Thanks! Looks like that's the one. The store has the latest variant available. I just ordered one.

 

[AAKEE]

Does scan my Tesla let you see individual motor output?

For RWD and Dual motors yes no problem.
But SMT has not been made to read three motors, at lesst not before.

With some theorizing the vibration fix coming in 2023.44 reducing the front power at certain speeds, I’d be curious to see a before and after

The front motor torque can most probably be seen/ read but as for the rear torque, either none of the motors or only one of them, I did not check.

I know there was a small update recently but it mostly fixed some minor bugs for NFP and some other small bugs. Most probably it wasnt updated to read all three.

I guess we need allt three or at least front and one rear to be able to judge the distribution, unless they are to keep power but alter the frequency etc.

 

[AAKEE]

Checked today, no usable values from neither motor on my Plaid in SMT.

 

[aerodyne]

Just ordered the cable for my MS from EV offer as recommended by @scottf200

They even have instructions how to install.

Now, what is the best reader? I had the MX+ last year, but it would crash often.

 

[JzCastle]

The BMS is probably wrong initially, reporting much lower than the true value.
My had 95.7kWh the day after delivery (after a 1000 km drive home).
I thought it was too low and did a check (described on a few other places here), which confirmed the capacity to be 98kWh despite the BMS NFP value still below 96kWh.
So the initial capacity value is not the same thing as the initial or new capacity.
I think 99.4 kWh is the correct number to start from.

So, what's the best way to get SMT show / car to use the total capacity?

I am a bit baffled with my car's 95.4 kWh figure @ 7000 km especially since I've pretty much always (~90% of time) only stored the car at 50%-60% SOC, etc. really looking after the battery. Maybe that's my problem?

 

[BrownOuttaSpec]

Now, what is the best reader? I had the MX+ last year, but it would crash often.

Have you done a firmware update for the MX+? It seems like there have been quite a few updates:

Scan Tools

Scan tools compatible with all OBD-II cars, light trucks, and motorcycles. Free, open source, and commercial automotive diagnostic software.

www.scantool.net

 

[aerodyne]

So, what's the best way to get SMT show / car to use the total capacity?

I am a bit baffled with my car's 95.4 kWh figure @ 7000 km especially since I've pretty much always (~90% of time) only stored the car at 50%-60% SOC, etc. really looking after the battery. Maybe that's my problem?

Stored my '22 car for two months at 55% unplugged. "Lost" maybe 2 miles of range, which came back when I charged to 70%.

The same thing happened 4 years ago on my 85D.

I'm not a believer that extreme charging or discharging of a healthy MS/MX pack does anything significant to Rated Range, either by BMS calibration or pack equalization.

Do you have a screen shot you can share of the BMS tab?

 

[aerodyne]

Have you done a firmware update for the MX+? It seems like there have been quite a few updates:

Scan Tools

Scan tools compatible with all OBD-II cars, light trucks, and motorcycles. Free, open source, and commercial automotive diagnostic software.

www.scantool.net

The MX went away with the old car last year. I guess it does not hurt to try again, it's "The devil I know"

 

[AAKEE]

So, what's the best way to get SMT show / car to use the total capacity?

I am a bit baffled with my car's 95.4 kWh figure @ 7000 km especially since I've pretty much always (~90% of time) only stored the car at 50%-60% SOC, etc. really looking after the battery. Maybe that's my problem?

Do you use sentry overnight?
If sentry is on most of the time, the BMS might have a harder time measuring the real SOC.

Well, as your car might have started low and maybe doesnt get to see the capacity if you alwsys have it around 50-60%
try a BMS calibration if you like to help the BMS.

Actually, it would be enough to charge ~ 30% from any SOC to do a rather precise capacity calculation. I do not know why the BMS is so slow to adjust from appearently very ”off” situations.

You will not damage the battery by charging it full*, or to 90%. Do that and let it sleep for a couple of hours, 3 hours or so.
Then let it get to low SOC, single digit and let it sleep there.
These (sleep at high and low SOC) might need to be repeted a few times.

BTW, I would not use more than 55% if not more is needed as the upper ”often parked at limit” as the calendar aging increases over 55% displayed SOC.

*) If you think it is nessesary to drive down the SOC after the full charge, driving it down to 80% will not help much. 55% or lower is what to think if as ”lookikg after the battery”.

 

[JzCastle]

Do you use sentry overnight?
If sentry is on most of the time, the BMS might have a harder time measuring the real SOC.

Well, as your car might have started low and maybe doesnt get to see the capacity if you alwsys have it around 50-60%
try a BMS calibration if you like to help the BMS.

Actually, it would be enough to charge ~ 30% from any SOC to do a rather precise capacity calculation. I do not know why the BMS is so slow to adjust from appearently very ”off” situations.

You will not damage the battery by charging it full*, or to 90%. Do that and let it sleep for a couple of hours, 3 hours or so.
Then let it get to low SOC, single digit and let it sleep there.
These (sleep at high and low SOC) might need to be repeted a few times.

BTW, I would not use more than 55% if not more is needed as the upper ”often parked at limit” as the calendar aging increases over 55% displayed SOC.

*) If you think it is nessesary to drive down the SOC after the full charge, driving it down to 80% will not help much. 55% or lower is what to think if as ”lookikg after the battery”.

This is basically everything (the good things you mentioned) what I have been doing since I got my car in June.

This is my 3rd Tesla, got my first one more than 6 years ago. I've reading a lot of these threads during the years.

Keeping it below 60% / close to 50% pretty much all the time. And car sleeps every night and with different SOC and then charge after 3 or 6 hours during the night.

The BMS range has dropped from 604km to 600km (SMT shows 598km). 21" wheels summer and winter.

I need to try the BMS calibration.
Thanks.