How? You have no idea what version will be installed when you allow it to be installed. (Though since 2018.4.6 is going around now, you are not likely to get something older.)
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How? You have no idea what version will be installed when you allow it to be installed. (Though since 2018.4.6 is going around now, you are not likely to get something older.)
seattlite2004
Active Member
Hmmm.....maybe OTA updates ain't such a good idea since one could end up with a disabled vehicle. Can one restore to factory defaults if one suspects an issue....kinda like a cellphone?
There's no way for an end user to do that; I'm not positive if Tesla can do that remotely or by a Ranger or not.
I knew that. I wasn't sure if they could trigger some sort of factory reset if the firmware leaves the car unbootable or frozen, which is what I thought the previous poster asked.
I have a service center appointment next Friday for other issues. I know they'll put on whatever is latest (at least 2018.4.6), so I'll just not install any update if I get it in the meantime.
There are a couple reports of a 2018.6 firmware today...
(Meanwhile I'm stuck on 2017.50.2, without all the promised heated seat improvements until the cold weather goes away. :-/)
Joe F
Disruption is hard.
If it's just battery problem, then you need power ranger.
Yup. It's also interesting that it happened to have a charging-related message quirk. I have no idea if it could have been introduced in .13 or already existed. It's quite possible it has always been there and it's related to cold weather (as speculated above). Remember, this was one of the first batches to leave California. All I know is they're telling me is that 2018.4.6 appears to have fixed the issue.
I received what I believe to be the latest firmware at the time about 5 days prior to the problem. It wasn't the firmware that came with the car.
seattlite2004
Active Member
Sounds like this future owner's Mod 3 couldn't get firmware updated at the service center: Model 3 VIN53XX Delivery Fail - 1 hour notice
Sounds like they are pushing out barely "blue label" firmware. They should really test in the lab/mules before pushing out to the public....specially if the firmware has the potential of disabling the vehicle.
Sounds like they are pushing out barely "blue label" firmware. They should really test in the lab/mules before pushing out to the public....specially if the firmware has the potential of disabling the vehicle.
lunitiks
Cool James & Black Teacher
On my Model S, I did have had the firmware rolled back to a previous version one time. There were no errors to my knowledge and I'm not sure why they did it, but it is possible. I don't believe there's a "factory reset" in the same way a motherboard might have a redundant firmware/bios stored somewhere. "Factory resets" like you'd do with a paperclip on a router typically don't change the firmware, but reset all the custom settings and user configurations that may be causing an error. That said, I wouldn't be surprised if Tesla had a way to update firmware with special tools--possibly hardwired to the car--in the event of a serious firmware update issue.
Leaf battery is managed by air and direct heating elements.
Bolt battery is managed by air and glycol.
i3 battery is managed by air, refrigerant gas and direct heating elements.
Still, 12C is nonsense. It doesn't mean it is not true.
navguy12
Active Member
Just found this thread. I've been away for a while. Posting so that the thread will show up on my New Posts list. I commented way back after the reveal that not having a mechanical key was a big shortcoming. It wouldn't get the car started, but a person would at least have access to anything left inside. I'm especially concerned because I placed my order two weeks ago, and I'd really prefer not to get delivery until they figure this out and fix it.
It is not possible any longer to downgrade firmware. The gateway prevents it.
The Tegra has a firmware recovery mode with a protected boot loader. I’d imagine the Intel board in the Model 3 has a similar feature.
I really wouldn't worry much. As long as you have a 12V source, it's easy to get in even if this happens. The OP didn't want to do that because he was talking to Tesla and wanted to leave it untouched to be easier to diagnose, but it would probably take all of five minutes.
I don't have a 12V source. And I'd probably break the plastic cover trying to get it off. And if it happens when I'm away from home I'd be totally SOL. If the car is so completely dependent on the 12V battery, perhaps there should be a secondary 12V battery whose only function is to boot the car when the main 12V battery dies. 12V car batteries have limited life and in a few years this is going to become an issue.
I am a total Tesla fanboy. I LOOOOOVE my Roadster. I'm not going to try to get out of my Model 3 order because of this. But I do feel that this is a significant design flaw, and there should be redundancy in a part that is so critical that its failure makes the car completely inoperable and inaccessible.
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