This is a very amateur issue to have. I've worked with Daimler before on their powernet management system and they would instantly know of quiescent current draw issues from any one of their 80+ ECUs.
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JRP3
Hyperactive Member
Good thing they've never ever had anything wrong with any of their vehicles....
Which is recycled more and is eco friendlier battery compared to LiFePO4 BTW
Doesn't really matter.
Maybe I am wrong, but it just looks like a defective 12 Volt battery to me. They would have updated the firmware as a matter of a normal Service Center visit.
The update was to get his phone to work with the firmware. They always update mine when I go in with my S. Are we going to normally be all this fuzzed up about a dead 12 volt battery? I realize this is a premature battery death but 25 pages... Wow!
I see the reasoning behind why the OP did it the way he did and sympathize with his plight. I would have jumped it myself, and then worked from there. Charged it up, tested it, and if it went dead again after that, Service Center here I come!
The update was to get his phone to work with the firmware. They always update mine when I go in with my S. Are we going to normally be all this fuzzed up about a dead 12 volt battery? I realize this is a premature battery death but 25 pages... Wow!
I see the reasoning behind why the OP did it the way he did and sympathize with his plight. I would have jumped it myself, and then worked from there. Charged it up, tested it, and if it went dead again after that, Service Center here I come!
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Hi, Arnis! I don't have cabin overheat protection activated on my car. The car automatically works at cooling whether the key is present or not. I am not referring to the (cabin) interior of the car.
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ℬête Noire
Active Member
I was told specifically by Tesla that a firmware error caused the 12V battery to improperly drain. Only after updating the firmware did the 12V drain stop. They had the vehicle for about five days. Simply replacing the 12V battery would not have remedied the problem. The service notes don't accurately reflect what I was explained.
If you go a quick search online, you'll see I'm not the only one who had a dead 12V that was blamed on firmware.
When we purchased our 2013 P85 from a non Tesla dealer - I know, I know, it was completely dead. The dealer was clueless (kept chaning key fob batteries to no avail) but I having read everything Tesla, knew about removing the nose cone to access the 12 volt battery terminals. The computer had apparently taken the main batteries off line so no brick, sorry Sarah Palin. There were a few sparks when the guy connected to the typical used car jumper machine on wheels, but fortunately polarity was correct and sleeping beauty came to life. Apparently it was already scheduled for a 12 battery replacement across the street at Tesla. I am hoping there is something similar to remote access to 12 bat charging post w/o allowing access to frunk by thieves in the know.
Asymmetry
Member
So the car was fixed in 5 days and this whinge thread is 3 weeks now. I thought my wife was bad...
On the 3, there are terminals that with open frunk if you apply 12V, but only if the vehicle's 12V battery is dead. Then you can access/jump the 12V battery.
JRP3
Hyperactive Member
Which is recycled more and is eco friendlier battery compared to LiFePO4 BTW
Lead is worse than anything in a lithium ion battery.
Spent lead-acid battery recycling in China - A review and sustainable analyses on mass flow of lead. - PubMed - NCBI
Recycling used lead-acid batteries:
@MarkS22 does this mean you are on a one-off firmware from the rest of the Model 3 Fleet? Kinda curious if the root cause is firmware, why aren't ALL the other Model 3s affected. And what happens at the next firmware update? Wouldn't that wipe out your one-off fix?
I won't claim to understand, but I guess I'd much rather prefer a firmware-caused problem than a hardware-caused problem.
I won't claim to understand, but I guess I'd much rather prefer a firmware-caused problem than a hardware-caused problem.
To my knowledge, I was one of the first to get 2018.4.8 but I see two others reported getting it on the Firmware Tracker since then. I’m assuming the fix will remain the future code.
Based on some Google searches, there were other reports similar to mine they’ve been working on. Pure speculation, but perhaps it was a combination of (for example) cold weather protection, charging at 120V/15A, the fact I still haven’t named the car, and a connectivity error because of poor LTE reception. The point being, there are so few cars on the road, early adopters are bound to run into unique situations.
I’d like to think my early inconvenience will help hundreds (or thousands) when sales are in the millions.
Hmm. I was able to pop the trunk using a portable battery without the 12V being dead when I got my car back. I even made a video of it. Maybe because my phone was nearby so it allowed it? I’ll have to experiment with that one.
Okay, I verified this: Turns out, even without the phone nearby, the Model 3 locked, and the 12V fully charged, you can pop open the frunk with a portable power supply.
I was responding to the fact some people believed it would only open using this method if there was no 12V power detected (e.g. the battery was dead). Just testing the hypothesis and also hopefully helping people understand how to pop the frunk on their own.
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