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Tesla requires 60A Disconnect switch w/charger?

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Well, I guess you're the victim of another "ridiculous gotcha". The thing on the wall does NOT charge your car. It simply manages/controls the electrical flow.

What's ridiculous is that legit terminology can become a "ridiculous gotcha."

No. Your being pedantic. It’s a useless difference for the average person.
 
What's ridiculous is that legit terminology can become a "ridiculous gotcha."
“Legit terminology” that provides no meaningful or relevant distinction to 99% of the population exposed to it is useless. There is no “necessary” distinction here that fundamentally changes the practical application or colloquial understanding of the thing being discussed. Pedantic distinction is pedantic.

This is the sort of hair splitting that gets regular people rolling their eyes real hard at the EV community. Ever been on an ICE forum where that one guy comes along in every thread just to say “can we all agree that we should NOT be calling it a gas cap? It doesn’t cap the gas. It’s a fuel filler neck cap and yeah it’s a bit of a pain in the ass, but it’s necessary.”

Yeah, me either.
 
All good points. I guess we all have to accept the same confused terminology about wheels/tires, bumpers/fenders, windshields/windows.

ucmndd: It's hard for me to understand that there are "regular people rolling their eyes real hard at the EV community" when informed EV owners use the correct terms when discussing their complex state-of-art vehicles. Knowledge and correct terminology is hardly pedantic.

I get your point, though. That ship has sailed.
 
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No. Its a ridiculous gotcha. The thing on the wall chargers my car. I’m gonna call it a charger.

The thing on your wall, the EVSE, is basically a fancy extension cord. Its intelligence doesn't go much beyond testing for ground faults, telling the car how many amps it can support, and turning itself on and off. The real battery charger is in a box buried deep in the car.
 
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What happens when the charging cord is no longer needed, will people still call it the charger? WiTricity's wireless charging option will be available for Tesla vehicles in select locations in the US starting in late 2022. We can expect wireless charging to be widely available by 2023.

WiTricity Wireless Vehicle Charging

Do you still call the wireless Qi pad for your phone a charger?

Even though the electronics controlling the current and negotiating the session are in the phone?
 
The thing on your wall, the EVSE, is basically a fancy extension cord. Its intelligence doesn't go much beyond testing for ground faults, telling the car how many amps it can support, and turning itself on and off. The real battery charger is in a box buried deep in the car.
I’m aware brodensky. But it’s a stupid technical gotcha that doesn’t have to be rehashed every time someone has a question about the thing on the wall.
 
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Probably off topic to where the thread is now. But I was curious if maybe they quoted the disconnect for running aluminum vs copper. Depending on the run it might be easier to install SER for 95% and convert to copper at the charger. Not sure that’s the best idea but think it’s legal to do.
 
Probably off topic to where the thread is now. But I was curious if maybe they quoted the disconnect for running aluminum vs copper.
That shouldn't be a relevant deciding factor. Whether NEC requires the disconnect is based on the amp rating of the circuit. You have to use a wire type and gauge that meets that amp rating requirement, but that is not directly relevant to the decision for the disconnect.

Depending on the run it might be easier to install SER for 95% and convert to copper at the charger. Not sure that’s the best idea but think it’s legal to do.
Yes, it is legal based on this condition: Are the connection lugs you are screwing it into labeled and rated to accept either copper or aluminum wire? A lot are for copper only, so you could not directly use aluminum into those. The Tesla wall connector wire lugs are for copper only. Depending on the type or brand of receptacle, some are for copper only and some others are for either.

Most breakers can be for both (check first). You could run most of the distance in aluminum wire to get to the garage, and then terminate that in a sub-panel. Most sub-panel lugs are rated for AL or copper. There could be significant cost savings there if you're getting up toward 100 feet or more. Then from the sub-panel, you can do the final short run in copper wire to the wall connector or outlet.
 
That shouldn't be a relevant deciding factor. Whether NEC requires the disconnect is based on the amp rating of the circuit. You have to use a wire type and gauge that meets that amp rating requirement, but that is not directly relevant to the decision for the disconnect.

He is suggesting the disconnect was included (required) to switch from aluminum to copper conductors.
 
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That shouldn't be a relevant deciding factor. Whether NEC requires the disconnect is based on the amp rating of the circuit. You have to use a wire type and gauge that meets that amp rating requirement, but that is not directly relevant to the decision for the disconnect.


Yes, it is legal based on this condition: Are the connection lugs you are screwing it into labeled and rated to accept either copper or aluminum wire? A lot are for copper only, so you could not directly use aluminum into those. The Tesla wall connector wire lugs are for copper only. Depending on the type or brand of receptacle, some are for copper only and some others are for either.

Most breakers can be for both (check first). You could run most of the distance in aluminum wire to get to the garage, and then terminate that in a sub-panel. Most sub-panel lugs are rated for AL or copper. There could be significant cost savings there if you're getting up toward 100 feet or more. Then from the sub-panel, you can do the final short run in copper wire to the wall connector or outlet.
My Tesla recommended electrician did exactly what you said. He used #2 Aluminum wire for a 150 ft run from my 200 amp basement breaker panel to the sub panel in my garage.
 

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He is suggesting the disconnect was included (required) to switch from aluminum to copper conductors.
Yes, this, in fact, is basically the cheapest way to transition from heavy-gauge aluminum to copper wires. A 60A non-fusible disconnect is <$15 and you get to transition all 3 wires in it. Polaris connectors are the best choice for transitions in J-boxes, and they are like $15 each, plus you need the J-box. Technically the cheapest approved option is probably split bolts, but they are super finicky, annoying to work with, and you gotta tape 'em right. Using an AC disconnect is the "life hack" answer. :D
 
GFCI is required by code on all EV charging outlets. It’s not required if the Charger is hardwired like a Wall Connector. It doesn’t matter if the plug in charger has GFCI built in. It’s the fact the plug is exposed and needs to be protected.
You are correct.... the death knell to plug in chargers eh? Nevermind the fact that the EVSE -is- a GFCI.... here's the quandry: Code allows for an EVSE to trip at 20ma, but a wall socket must trip at 5ma. Frustrating.
 
You are correct.... the death knell to plug in chargers eh? Nevermind the fact that the EVSE -is- a GFCI.... here's the quandry: Code allows for an EVSE to trip at 20ma, but a wall socket must trip at 5ma. Frustrating.
You are correct that the EVSE has GFCI protection however the GFCI in the EVSE is there to protect the user when plugging and unplugging the J1772 connector. The now required GFCI protection for the receptacle protects the user when plugging or unplugging the EVSE from the receptacle. When the EVSE is hard wired this additional GFCI protection is not needed. If users read the EVSE owner's manual they would see that if the EVSE has a power plug then the manual states to always turn off the power at the circuit breaker before plugging or unplugging the EVSE.
 
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