Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register
This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
Very good stuff. I wonder if the aftermarket is going to step up to the plate and make better cooling for the guys that really want to track these things??
Did not look that complicated

I believe the S/X motors are just harder designs to cool and the permanent magnet on the 3 easier.

Also I believe all those little cells are a lot harder to cool than you think. It is not like an ICE where everything is metal and can be operated in a couple hundred degree temp range.
 
I used the free Scan My Tesla DEMO app with a cheap bluetooth ELM327 OBD2 dongle (from China for like $4) and read all the thermal management system values (and other stuff like battery module voltage & temp).

Car was parked (for last couple of days) in 2 degrees C garage (northwest winter) but battery was at 20C with me just sitting in the car for like 5-10min capturing the diag app screens. Cabin temp set about 70F. Factory 40A charger was plugged in but charge was at the set limit. Not sure if it was trickling in here and there.

Whats is interesting is coolant heater is at 0% and battery is at 20C compared to ambient of 2C. Only "heat" I can see is the stator at 33C. Maybe the onboard AC/DC convertor can generate some heat too? if trickling power in. Interesting mystery haha. Here is my full data set to cross reference with the pics in post #1.

Vendor - Scan My Tesla, a CANBUS reader for Android
 
Found the answer in the Scan My Tesla DEMO app developer's notes. Left and right heater is reported by BMS and both running at 90C so presumably thats whats heating my battery. I guess not in the first post's diagram.

You should probably know that the DEMO app is just a UI demo, it plays back a log from my car driving to work a cool spring morning :)

Left and right heaters are for cabin air. No battery heating on me that morning, since the battery already was above 8c or what the heating limit is usually at.
 
So I would like to explain everything I understand about Model S (very likely Model X is similar) thermal
management system.
Number in yellow is slightly to the left of the object it refers to.
It's easier to open the picture in different window, drag it to the left screen portion while keeping text to the right.

View attachment 219794
1. Main coolant radiator. Does not have a fan apparently. When vehicle is in motion air passes through the fins cooling the liquid. Coolant enters from the right side. This radiator can be bypassed with device #10.
2. Coolant circulation mode selector. A device that switches between two modes: Series and Parallel. If series, coolant passes from #1 to #3 and then from B to #7. If is parallel, one loop passes from #1 to #7 and other loop from B to #3.
3. 12V coolant pump. Percents indicate pump running speed. Slower speed consumes less energy, prolongs pump life and slows the coolant flow.
4. Adjustable coolant redirection valve. Sends 100% of coolant from #3 to #5, 100% form #3 to #13 or anything in between.
5. Coolant heater. Apparently is rated for 6kW. Runs on high voltage. If activated, coolant will be heated up. This is used to heat the Battery fast. Heat generated by #6 #8 #9# can also be used to for pack heating. Cold pack will also cool down those devices.
6. DC-DC converter. Takes energy from high voltage pack, keeps 12V battery charged and all 12V devices powered up. Small part of coolant is directed into this device as heat generation is small.
7. 12V coolant pump. This pump is required to keep second loop of coolant flowing if #2 is in parallel mode. Acts as a backup to #3. In series mode both pumps run at equal speed.
8. On-board charger. Is used for vehicle charging. Converts AC grid electricity to suitable DC for main battery. Second charger is not available any more. There is a coolant bypass. Likely required due to single charger has up to half the coolant throughput. Number on the left indicates temperature of the electronics inside.
9. Drivetrain. Coolant enters the motor. Circulates in the stator. Also circulates in inverter (power electronics) and then exits (with temperature value shown). Transmission (reduction gear and differential) doesn't require cooling though it gets some heat as it is between warm motor and inverter. Which raises the temperature of the oil and makes vehicle slightly more efficient. Also rotor temperature is shown (most likely calculated estimation) and Inverter electronics temperature (PCB).
10. Adjustable coolant redirection valve. Same as #4. Either sends 100% of coolant through the radiator, bypasses 100% or anything in between. If coolant is not directed to the radiator it can be used to heat the Battery.
11. AC condenser. Required to cool down refrigerant. Does have a fan. Fan speed indicated in percents. There are two condensers each having a 12V fan. Are between fog lights and front wheel arches. Air enters through louvers and exits to the wheel arc. Louvers can be closed for better drag coefficient.
12. Electric Air Conditioner Compressor. Runs on high voltage. It is used for two purposes. To cool the air for the cabin using #16 and/or to cool the glycol loop using #13. Percents indicate compressor running speed. If cooling requirements are very small compressor will be temporarily stopped to allow cabin air evaporator to stay above freezing point. Sensors before and after indicate temperature and pressure of the refrigerant before and after the compressor.
13. Refrigerant-coolant heat exchanger. Functions the same way as #11 #16 but instead of air it cools glycol coolant passing through it. While #16 is not allowed to get below 0*C/32*F chiller can go colder as coolant will freeze at much lower temperatures. Though it's more efficient to pass as much of coolant as possible. Chiller can be disabled with #14. To keep #16 functional (if user requested) #4 can redirect only some of the coolant.
14. Chiller activation valve. Is an on-off valve that either blocks the refrigerant from expanding into #13 or not.
15. Cabin evaporator activation valve. Is an on-off valve that either blocks the refrigerant from expanding into #16 or not.
16. Cabin air evaporator. Radiator inside HVAC system that cools the air that passes through. If climate control AC setting is "ON" or precooling is activated remotely this will cool and dry the air that passes it. Air gets here through cabin air filter and continues to #17.
17. Cabin air PTC heater element. Apparently is rated for 6kW maximum power. Runs on high voltage. Due to it being Positive Thermal Coefficient device, it can generate 6kW of heat only if air that enters is very cold and is moving very fast. If the element gets hot, it will reduce its draw even if it is activated to 100%. Usually air that exits doesn't get scalding hot no matter what. Temperatures between 55*C - 80*C can be expected at full requested power.

B. Main traction high voltage battery. Some data is shown on the picture.
Trend - Temp - Trend is coolant temperature that enters the battery. If it is hotter, battery will heat up. If is colder, it will cool the pack. Coolant temperature after the pack is to the left, below #7.
Max/Min Cell Temp: extreme values of the sensors in the pack. There are lots of those all mostly being very close to each other.
Passive Cooling Target: this is the value system tries to bring the pack to passively. If B is below this value, heat that has been generated by #6 #8 #9 will bypass #1 and will be absorbed by the B.
Active Cooling Target: this is the upper value for B temperature. If #1 is not capable to cool enough and trend is to go above that value, active cooling measures will increase. This means: #14 activates #13 and #4 selects a portion of coolant to be chilled. Depending on requirements #13 speeds up, as will fans on #11. At some point if cooling is not capable to cope other parameters can be limited (charging speed, vehicle power/regen limits).
Active Heating Target: This is the lower value for B. Anything below that and vehicle will use active measures to heat the pack. Apparently #5. It appears that active heating to that limit can be disabled with range mode. This will compromise battery charging capability/regen a lot and also some of the power output.

There are some more pictures that help to understand Parallel-Series loops and values.
View attachment 219795


I just came across this post. Great work! Very Helpful! How did you get access to diagnostic mode?
 
  • Love
Reactions: arnis
If u take your frunk out, u can see the coolant cooler, it is a very small metal box below the power steering. It has 2 coolant hoses, and 2 refrigerant tubes. A valve opens allowing 134k to cool the coolant. There r 4 diverter valves. It's insane to follow.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20200208_132122241_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20200208_132122241_HDR.jpg
    625.8 KB · Views: 321
  • Tesla Thermal Screen.jpg
    Tesla Thermal Screen.jpg
    239.4 KB · Views: 225
  • Informative
Reactions: arghx7
My battery heating system is not working, I used a digital thermometer to read coolant temperatures. When it's cold the coolant is same temp. My gearbox coolant temp was 120 yesterday. They say the reason I cannt super charge is my coolant is never 70. It was 85 yesterday, and I only charged at a 30kw rate. So u figure, I cant?
Tesla says pump 2 is bad, yet pump 1 runs all the time. Which I see no correlation to the heater never turning on?
 
My battery heating system is not working, I used a digital thermometer to read coolant temperatures. When it's cold the coolant is same temp. My gearbox coolant temp was 120 yesterday. They say the reason I cannt super charge is my coolant is never 70. It was 85 yesterday, and I only charged at a 30kw rate. So u figure, I cant?
Tesla says pump 2 is bad, yet pump 1 runs all the time. Which I see no correlation to the heater never turning on?

Maybe the system won't turn the heater on when it detects the pump is bad. And maybe it runs the other pump overtime to make up for it.

Why do you think you know what the problem is better than them?
 
  • Like
Reactions: scottf200
I was parked a week ago. A guy walked over, he heard me on the cell with help desk, he typed my Vin in his cell, he says "u have coolant error codes, your coolant is not up to operating temp." He got in his car and drove off before I could talk. Evidently he was a technician that had access to any car.
I have have had RE Gen and high speed warnings for months. I called so many times. "Nothing is wrong". I have log of every charge for 4 yrs . Pictures.
I got on here, there are a lot of posts. If battery temp is too low, car wont super charge or RE Gen. The guys up north know this. Yesterday it was 80 here, my car still go higher than 30kw. So, I will change pump 2. See what happens.
I think they have throttled all the antique cars to get us out of warranty. My opinion. Last November, before v10, I was always close to 100kw, or above. Teslafi has it all stored also.
Dont get me wrong, I love the car. Just Tesla's Karma has gone down lately. I ordered a truck.
 
You should probably know that the DEMO app is just a UI demo, it plays back a log from my car driving to work a cool spring morning :)

Left and right heaters are for cabin air. No battery heating on me that morning, since the battery already was above 8c or what the heating limit is usually at.

Quick question, I have smt and my heater R is bouncing from 55 F to 415 F which is causing my PTC to shutoff and not warm the cabin. Where is the physical location of Heater R probe. Is it in the heater box or ducting or is it within the PTC itself? Thank you
 
We are expecting some traffic here, as first post was mentioned by Sandy Munro (Munro Live):


A lot has changed during those years, Heat Pump is awesome, but I'm not happy that there is
no plan B for heat generation on those new models. HP's usually struggle at -20*C or below.
Also problems with frost near freezing, -1*C. I'm not sure how to defrost at highway speeds.
Louvres must be really airtight 🤨

PS: If you are not subscribed to MunroLive, transition to sustainable transportation is postponed for 1 minute 😣
 
Well, I've seen reports of failed HP compressors and no heat.
HP, that can go down to -30*C is cool, but it is plan A2, not B, as it still requires compressor.
-40*C, in that I do not believe. Condenser is not big enough for that.
And extracting heat from drivetrain/battery doesn't count. No heat when stationary (preheat).
 
A lot has changed during those years, Heat Pump is awesome, but I'm not happy that there is
no plan B for heat generation on those new models. HP's usually struggle at -20*C or below.
Also problems with frost near freezing, -1*C. I'm not sure how to defrost at highway speeds.
Louvres must be really airtight 🤨

I think you may be missing the point that Tesla heat pumps are liquid-to-liquid