I generally preheat to 68-70, and keep the driver seat heater on low or off. At home it is in my garage which is not insulated but usually warmer than outside temps. I also usually have the car plugged in at home, although not at work. At work it is in an open above ground parking garage. I have the stock 18"s and tires.
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What Wh/mi are you getting with AWD and P cars?
- Thread starter Thomas Edison
- Start date
I generally preheat to 68-70, and keep the driver seat heater on low or off. At home it is in my garage which is not insulated but usually warmer than outside temps. I also usually have the car plugged in at home, although not at work. At work it is in an open above ground parking garage. I have the stock 18"s and tires.
AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
With your described situation:
40F
Preheated
Stock 18” tires
Dry conditions?
I don’t think you should see 500Wh/mi if it is flat. How long a commute? If it is uphill, even slightly, to work, be sure to measure the roundtrip.
After preheating, I would just use the seat heater and press and hold to disable the climate control (temp goes from white to gray) while you drive to/from work, and see how you do. Should be able to do this with a preheat with minimal fogging if your commute is not too long. I don’t think it should be any worse than 300Wh/mi in those conditions, assuming it is reasonably flat. You can use the seat heater on max; it draws less than 100W. So at a 20mph average speed that would would only add at most 100W/20mi/hr = 5Wh/mi.
In above conditions, if you’re above 350Wh/mi with no heat use, properly inflated tires, etc., standard conservative driving, for a commute of more than 5-10 miles, I’d say there might be something you should have checked out just in case. Because in ideal conditions at 40 degrees you should easily be below 300Wh/mi.
The rubbercompound in the all-season tires is not good for consumption at that temps. When I compare mye Goodyear all season tires vs my Nokian Winter tires consumption is 5-10% in favour of the Nokians when outside temps are 10-20C, but when temps are about 0C, then consumption on short trips is up to 20% worse With the all-Seasons. The rubber becomes really hard. My advice would be to get wintertires if temps often lie around 0C where you live in Winter. Also, extra air in tires helps quite a bit
Johann Koeber
Happy Owner
Love my M3P, have put more than 1,700 km on it in just a few days.
Average was 228 Wh/km. Part of it was checking if it will really go over 235 km/h (it does). This is a badass machine. Contrary to the MS it did not limit power even when going stretches over 200 km/h.
Hope to get the consumption down. Anything over 150 km/h is really expensive.Off the Autobahn 155 Wh/km seems doable.
Average was 228 Wh/km. Part of it was checking if it will really go over 235 km/h (it does). This is a badass machine. Contrary to the MS it did not limit power even when going stretches over 200 km/h.
Hope to get the consumption down. Anything over 150 km/h is really expensive.Off the Autobahn 155 Wh/km seems doable.
I'm averaging 238Wh/Mi but only 600 odd miles so far - Spirited driving with a mix of chill driving (not chill mode). Enjoying the acceleration too much but trying to aim for efficiency. Just did a school run, nice 70's outside, windows open no AC, 190Wh/Mi average, on the way back was actually 166Wh/Mi (with a good downhill section) just relaxed driving with traffic, 50 max speed but mostly 30-45.
Just looking it up 190Wh/mi = 192.89 Mpg Equivalent.
To get Mpg divide 36,650 / Wh/mi number...US Gallon, UK is 44,016
Just looking it up 190Wh/mi = 192.89 Mpg Equivalent.
To get Mpg divide 36,650 / Wh/mi number...US Gallon, UK is 44,016
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MacGreiner
5YJ
I believe I read that for road tripping actually setting regen to standard from max improves efficiency. Can anyone confirm this?
StealthP3D
Well-Known Member
The Model 3 has 2 regen options:
1) Standard
2) Low
If you get better road trip economy on "Low" then it's time to work on your throttle control. Because the only reason you would get worse economy with more regen is if you were using regen braking when it was unnecessary to be slowing down in the first place.
My father-in-law drives with a very on/off throttle control style. So much so that you don't have to be a sensitive person to feel it. He is always amazed at the MPG the trip computer shows after I've driven his car on a road trip with him. This is on a fossil car but the effect of poor throttle control will have similar results on an EV.
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AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
I really think this is more likely to hurt efficiency, if you are driving “properly”. When you want to slow down, it is good to maximize recaptured energy. But on the other hand you never want to regen unless you have to - so steady speed is critical (which guarantees no regen on flat ground).
MacGreiner
5YJ
My experience is that I drive more energy 'responsibly' than AP does. I see congestion before it does so I lighten off the accelerator before AP does. I make less hard decelerations and less hard accelerations to get back up to speed. So my logic would would be if you are road tripping using AP (which is what I do), standard would be more efficient to take advantage of the more rapid decelerations.
I'm guessing then that whether the traffic is free flowing of bumper-to-bumper makes a difference.
I'm guessing then that whether the traffic is free flowing of bumper-to-bumper makes a difference.
AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
The two settings are standard and low, not max and standard. So yes...standard in that context. The original question asked “max” or “standard”. If those were the two setting names (which they aren’t), answer would be “Max” is better, assuming the correct driving style and assuming the extra regen is not used as a crutch.
Jedi2155
Model 3 has Arrived.
So I just drove to Borrego Springs and back home, and I could "almost" make it on 1 charge which surprised me greatly.
Managed just about where Teslike's range indicator would suggest even with thousands of feet of elevation change lol.
Also had a random bug with the "scheduled" charging feature where an event occured at 4 AM, and the car stopped charging so I woke up to a car with 88% charge instead of 95% as set. Oh well.
Managed just about where Teslike's range indicator would suggest even with thousands of feet of elevation change lol.
Also had a random bug with the "scheduled" charging feature where an event occured at 4 AM, and the car stopped charging so I woke up to a car with 88% charge instead of 95% as set. Oh well.
It’s easy to get the same efficiency or better if on low regen. Just do it on the highway and engage TACC / AP / NoA.
Around town it’s quite a bit harder because you tend to need quicker stops.
I tend to not stop on the highway
Long hills will just coast more and regen less. You’ll barely notice the difference. But you can actually get slightly more efficient on low. Coasting is more efficient than regen. But you can’t always coast around town. But you usually can on the highway. No hyper miling is needed. It’s natural to coast down hills. Coasting is 100% efficient. Regen is 92% efficient.
StealthP3D
Well-Known Member
It’s easy to get the same efficiency or better if on low regen. Just do it on the highway and engage TACC / AP / NoA.
Around town it’s quite a bit harder because you tend to need quicker stops.
I tend to not stop on the highway
Long hills will just coast more and regen less. You’ll barely notice the difference. But you can actually get slightly more efficient on low. Coasting is more efficient than regen. But you can’t always coast around town. But you usually can on the highway. No hyper miling is needed. It’s natural to coast down hills. Coasting is 100% efficient. Regen is 92% efficient.
Sigh...Having regen set to "Standard" doesn't prevent you from coasting unless you have poor throttle control.
The world is not flat, traffic speeds up and slows down, "Standard" regen is the most efficient. That's why it's the "standard" setting from the factory.
I’m not controlling the throttle with TACC or AP or NoA. I rarely control the throttle on the highway.
Just did 120 miles and got 216 wh/mi with regen on low. That’s one of my best runs for that trip. And AC was running too.
Wish it knew to use standard off highway and low on highway.
Mild changes in speed don’t require any brakes on low or standard regen.
Stop and go traffic would need it on standard. But with traffic moving along, hills or not, even low regen, will slow the car enough to not need any brakes.
I have my distance to car in front always max.
If you’re a tailgater that’s different.
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Been trying some low Wh/mi short runs locally back from library (where I take my kid after school) and getting some pretty crazy low numbers, last run average was 108Wh/mi - over 2 miles. (OK images are showing 114Wh/mi but this is taken many hours later, the numbers shifted in that time for some reason)
Granted 50% downhill dropping from 135 ft down to 20 ft above sea level, but some uphill and lots of flat roads.
At one point it was showing 102 and I thought it would be cool if I could get below 100Wh/mi, but I figure that'll be my goal.
Conditions are mild, no ac, windows open, lower than 35mph generally, but not driving super slow (it's a 25 mph speed limit and cops are very watchful around my area), good use of regen, lots of long green bars, but accelerating at 'normal' car speeds...I'm not supermiling it.
I'm curious if anyone has got below 100Wh/mi, in semi mixed driving, I guess if you drive downhill all the way you'll get a negative (meaning positive) Wh/mi number, and that is why people are using round trips, I get that, it's just my trips are rarely round.
A couple other images showing my recent averages.
Attachments
AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
When you put the vehicle in park it "finalizes" the numbers. It does not zero out the numbers until the next time you put the vehicle in drive (you must also exit the driver's seat to initiate the reset of the "drive" trip meter).
That will improve your efficiency on a 2-mile trip by approximately 90Wh/mi (115ft*1.6kWh/1000ft/2mi). So your baseline is about ~205Wh/mi which seems like it could be about right for an LR AWD at low speed.
Let us know about the return trip in the exact opposite direction! I would expect about 290Wh/mi.
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