BeastMode13's Dual Purpose P3D Build Journey

[beastmode13]

Back to the topic of this thread. New spanking new rotor ring for the new season. New ring comes with brand new mounting hardware as well. The only part that is reused is the aluminum hat. Will try to get this installed this weekend.

It looks enormous, even thought it’s the same size. I do like the all black plating, keep it rust free.

 

[Skione65]

Back to the topic of this thread. New spanking new rotor ring for the new season. New ring comes with brand new mounting hardware as well. The only part that is reused is the aluminum hat. Will try to get this installed this weekend.

View attachment 519289

It looks enormous, even thought it’s the same size. I do like the all black plating, keep it rust free.

Dayum.....that rotor looks HUGE.....love it. Is that a RB rotor? The black plate is killer.....would love to put those on mine.

Ski

 

[destructure00]

Back to the topic of this thread. New spanking new rotor ring for the new season. New ring comes with brand new mounting hardware as well. The only part that is reused is the aluminum hat. Will try to get this installed this weekend.

View attachment 519289

It looks enormous, even thought it’s the same size. I do like the all black plating, keep it rust free.

What's the reason for the new rings? Just because? Or necessary?

 

[beastmode13]

What's the reason for the new rings? Just because? Or necessary?

Black rings are faster than silver rings.

 

[beastmode13]

UPS delivered these stubby links today.

 

[Skione65]

UPS delivered these stubby links today.

View attachment 519366

@beastmode13,

Nice! Those literally look half the length of the ones you’re replacing. A side by side when you pull the others would be great.
(Don’t want to drift but did you see @Bigtuna00 ‘s UP Sways update)? I believe you’re running them.

Ski

 

[beastmode13]

@beastmode13,

Nice! Those literally look half the length of the ones you’re replacing. A side by side when you pull the others would be great.
(Don’t want to drift but did you see @Bigtuna00 ‘s UP Sways update)? I believe you’re running them.

Ski

Good for UP for proving him a new set. I have documented my issue and resolution with the length of the front UP sway bars, here Sway Bars, End Links, and Rear Control Arms Installation & Impression

Eddy from UP reached out to me after a few weeks ago after @Bigtuna00 made them aware they problem wasn’t just one off. I informed Eddy that I’m happy with my own resolution to the issue, no action needed from UP for me.

What @UnpluggedP @MountainPass should do is recruit me as a beta tester.

 

[beastmode13]

Time to take some baseline measurement at the start of our rotor ring replacement process.

Pad is looking good at 15.46mm. This is after one track day and 3k street miles.

7 track days and over 15k street miles. Just about .33mm thinner than new. Still plenty of meat on this rotor.

New RB rotor is at 32.11mm.

Yep it’s 380mm diameter. Go HAWKS!

 

[beastmode13]

Close-up of mounting an eye on the rotor ring. The elongation allows for the ring to expand and contract as it heats up and cools down.

This needs a bit of cleaning. The old mounting hardware will be removed and tossed.

Inserting new hardware in to the eye.

Looking much better with a bit of cleaning and new hardware.

Test fitting the ring onto the hat. Making sure everything is aligned.

Loctite all the bolts.

Torque all the bolts in to 105in/lb. The sequence is 1/6, 2/7, 3/8, 4/9, 5/10. After torquing, paint a strip across each bolt.

 

[beastmode13]

I would like a double, double, animal style. From the reflection you can see the wavy on the used rotor surface. That wavy came from one track day with Porterfield R4, I’m not using that pad ever.

 

[beastmode13]

Black sexy. It’s already making the car faster by 1.23seconds. Only thing that can make it faster is some anodized Blue or Gray calipers.

 

[beastmode13]

What the rotors look like 1/3 of way through the bedding process. 10 stops from 30 to 5 mph.

@Skione65 That looks similar.

 

[beastmode13]

What the rotors look like after additional of 10 stops from 50 to 5mph. Brake over heating warning came on after the fifth stop. I can feel green fade by the seventh stop.

 

[beastmode13]

After 10 more stops from 60 to 5mph. The bedding process is good enough for street use. I would love to do some 80 to 5mph stops, will save those on the way to the next track event when the highway are empty in the wee hours.

Nice black mirror effect on one of the rotor provided a good view of the backside of the spokes.

 

[Skione65]

@beastmode13,

Awesome!...thanks for the step by step. Great photos and narrative. Very helpful. Was going to head out to re-bed today to clean mine up but family stuff got in the way. Will try and hit it tomorrow. If it doesn’t rain! “Hell with Efficiency Day”!!!

Ski

 

[beastmode13]

A good video from Essex about bedding procedure with lots of nuance information. Skip to 12:30 mark to watch bedding of street pad in action.

 

[beastmode13]

Without @MountainPass Fore Upper/Lower Trailing arms.

With trailing arms installed. So much more colorful.

 

[beastmode13]

Time to swap out the KLC102 for KLC140-135, KLC140-135 is about 23mm shorter.

Side by side comparison of the two.

The ends are identical, the differences are the middle barrels. KLC140-135 is 103mm.

KLC102 is 80mm.

Left side with KLC140-135, close to 40mm of spacing between sway bar and fore lower arm.

Right side with KLC140-135, over 30mm of spacing between sway bar and fore lower arm.

There appears to be plenty of room above the arms of sway bar to accommodate the full compression of suspension system. I think KLC140-135 or something of the same length could be the default recommendation. @MountainPass @Skione65

 

[Skione65]

@beastmode13,

Wow. That’s an impressive difference from the set you’ve set swapped out. MUCH more clearance. No Dremel needed!!! You should be much more comfortable with that clearance and operational space available. Looks like the 140’s was definitely the answer. REALLY appreciate the time you’ve put in documenting these installs. Priceless. No issues getting zero preload on the sway? Did you corner balance at all?

Ski

 

[beastmode13]

@beastmode13,

Wow. That’s an impressive difference from the set you’ve set swapped out. MUCH more clearance. No Dremel needed!!! You should be much more comfortable with that clearance and operational space available. Looks like the 140’s was definitely the answer. REALLY appreciate the time you’ve put in documenting these installs. Priceless. No issues getting zero preload on the sway? Did you corner balance at all?

Ski

140-135 is the way to go. Plenty of room to properly set the links for corner balance. At this time I have only set the links so there is zero preload with my weight in the driver seat. Once I have the MPP front lower arm bushing installed that’s when I will have a professional alignment and corner balanced.