BeastMode13's Dual Purpose P3D Build Journey

[P3D-R]

12 ton Central Machinery hydraulic press is ready for action.
View attachment 524084


Typical HF tolerance issue. The holes on the jack base and the mounting plate is 1/16” off. Fixed the alignment issue with 3/8” drill bit on the two mounting holes on the jack base.
View attachment 524085

So do you just want a key to the shop and we'll just setup all the equipment already? lol.

 

[beastmode13]

Let us know if the 12 ton works for you. I need to do mine, just haven't had time.

@MasterC17 @MountainPass 12 ton press works like a champ. Even a child can operate it.

 

[beastmode13]

Weight comparison between stock bushing and MPP spherical bearing.

MPP is 518g heavier. The stock bushing is steel tabs held in place with rubber inside a aluminum sleeve. Lots of play from rubber and not much control. MPP spherical bearing is sealed, tight, and precise. Well worth the weight gain.

 

[beastmode13]

Since MPP already had excellent instruction for this product, I will only highlight insights that I learn from my installation.

These are the torque Spec per Tesla service manual.
Knuckle nut - 180NM, 132lb/ft
Lateral link/Spherical bearing - 106NM, 78lb/ft (MPP instruction called for 95-100lb/ft)
Struct to arm - 106NM, 78lb/ft (compress suspension to normal riding height before torquing this to spec)

Special Tools
22mm, 21mm, 19mm box wrench, T45 torx, 12-ton hydraulic press.

I break torque on all the bolts first, before removing any bolts/nuts. Keeping the suspension intact provides the rigidity necessary to break toque. Then I disconnect the strut from the lower arm. The next to go are the two bolts holding the lateral link in place. Last is the nut on the knuckle. The sequence for installation is reversed.

About a tablespoon of water dripping down from behind this bolt during the removal process.

The bolts have some surface rust and corrosion, a quick metal wire bush cleans it right up. On further inspection, the rust and corrosion appear to be coming from the subframe. I'm in Northern California which doesn't get a lot of rain. I wonder that it will be like for cars in places where there are lots of rain and salt. I use Loctite 242 on pretty much all the bolts/nuts.

Here is a look into the subframe. Yep, green stuff in there.

 

[beastmode13]

Test fitting the dowel and bearing. It fits my car just right, without any issue. @MountainPass

 

[beastmode13]

I calculated then mark the location where the press tool will align with the edge of the arm when the other end of the bearing is flush. Once it is close to the mark, it was couple of light presses and check to get it precisely flush.

Pro Tip: Before pressing, make sure the orientation of the tabs is close to the stock tabs orientation. Also, the face with the recess is facing up, the dowel pin will rest in the recess. This will save you time trying to rotate the tabs into the right orientation later. They are not the easily bearing to rotate.

What! A hydraulic press video?

 

[beastmode13]

A large screwdriver or long rod will be required to manipulate the bearing into the right alignment with the subframe hole/dowel pin. These are things that make a simple job much more time consuming.

All done. Torque everything to spec. Safety paint to facilitate inspection in the future.

Including assembling of the hydraulic press, this job took me six hours. I took my time on this job since there isn't anything else to do or places to go under the shelter in place order. Also, things just take much longer when you are on your back most of the time.

 

[beastmode13]

So do you just want a key to the shop and we'll just setup all the equipment already? lol.

Sure. I will take a spare key next time we meet.

 

[MasterC17]

Awesome write-up, thanks for sharing so much info! Makes it easier when I get to doing these. I see you changed the front sway bar to the medium setting, any feedback there?

 

[beastmode13]

Awesome write-up, thanks for sharing so much info! Makes it easier when I get to doing these. I see you changed the front sway bar to the medium setting, any feedback there?

Keen eyes, nothing gets by you.

Short answer. Balance handling.

Long answer. Experimenting. Before FUCA at zero shim my sway bar setting was soft/med, f/r, the car had neutral handling through out the entire corner. With FUCA at #noshimparty, there is so much more front traction the car had corner exit oversteer. The sway bar serving changes are to dial in the neutral balance that I like with my car on track. Changing front to med while keeping rear at med is one option. The second option is to have both ends at soft setting. I think the soft/soft setting is where I’ll end up, for a more compliant ride on the street.

 

[beastmode13]

Here is my initial impression of MPP Solid Lower Front Control Arm Bushing.

Direct and immediate are two things that jump out for me during my shakedown drive with MPP front lower spherical bearing installed. My journey lasted 50mins and covered 40miles of freeway, street, and twisties, including Moody Road, Page Mill, Skyline Drive, Highway 9, I280, and I85. It is fun for the driver, challenging on the suspension, and vomit-inducing for the passenger.

Notes:

• Setup, 255/40/19 PS4S, MPP Sports 13c/12r.
• Steering inputs transferred to the wheels with the immediacy that I have never experienced in P3D.
• The response of the wheel/tires to steering input is direct and precise. Point the steering, the nose goes. Well, as much as 4000lb can be.
• There is almost no increase in NVH from the bearings.
• There is a slight increase in return to center force.
• Because the steering is much more direct and immediate, this will make you aware of your steering inputs. IMHO, this will improve my steering input.

Overall, another winner by @MountainPass Can you jump on a vaccine for covid19?

1.2g brake for a squirrel.

 

[MountainPass]

Awesome write-up Allen, thanks for posting!

I have to agree that this is one of my personal favorite modifications for the car as well. It makes the car feel half a ton lighter - it's so direct and sharp now, very fun on the road for when you just want to have a bit of fun.

Glad to hear that the dowels are fitting in just right for everyone so far, one less thing for us to worry about

And thanks for saving that squirrel!

 

[Occhis]

Is an alignment necessary after installing these bushings?

 

[beastmode13]

Is an alignment necessary after installing these bushings?

Not necessary, but ideally yes.

 

[Lucky13]

Awesome write up. All I can think about though is your lucky to have a rubber gloves... I ran out like two weeks ago and didn't think much of it and now can't get that *sugar* anywhere. Hoping to do this project in the next week or so.

 

[beastmode13]

Wheel studs from Dorman and ARP have arrived.

Spec: published (actual)
Dorman 610-490.1 - 15.7mm (15.86mm) knurl, 69.75mm length (69.25mm)UHL
ARP 100-7736 - 15.875mm (15.85mm) knurl, 68.58mm (68.55mm) UHL

ARP is ~$11.50/stud, Dorman is $4.99/stud. In this case the extra cost of ARP can be observed in the higher accuracy of the parts to its specification.

 

[MountainPass]

Wheel studs from Dorman and ARP have arrived.

Spec: published (actual)
Dorman 610-490.1 - 15.7mm (15.86mm) knurl, 69.75mm length (69.25mm)UHL
ARP 100-7736 - 15.875mm (15.85mm) knurl, 68.58mm (68.55mm) UHL

ARP is ~$11.50/stud, Dorman is $4.99/stud. In this case the extra cost of ARP can be observed in the higher accuracy of the parts to its specification.

View attachment 524782 View attachment 524783 View attachment 524784 View attachment 524785

Make sure you inspect them all, one time I opened a package of ARP studs and one of them didn't have any threads cut in it! - Jesse

 

[Firehuntah]

Wheel studs from Dorman and ARP have arrived.

Spec: published (actual)
Dorman 610-490.1 - 15.7mm (15.86mm) knurl, 69.75mm length (69.25mm)UHL
ARP 100-7736 - 15.875mm (15.85mm) knurl, 68.58mm (68.55mm) UHL

ARP is ~$11.50/stud, Dorman is $4.99/stud. In this case the extra cost of ARP can be observed in the higher accuracy of the parts to its specification.

View attachment 524782 View attachment 524783 View attachment 524784 View attachment 524785

Great comparison of these 2. You can definately tell the ARP ones are much better quality. Those threads look much cleaner. But yeah, of course with that price tag you do expect them to be better. I'll be receiving my Dorman ones tomorrow, will be interesting to see if they match your measurements and they're slightly different to spec as well. As long as they're all about the same it should be fine.

So you're going to install the ARP I assume, let us know how that goes.

 

[beastmode13]

Great comparison of these 2. You can definately tell the ARP ones are much better quality. Those threads look much cleaner. But yeah, of course with that price tag you do expect them to be better. I'll be receiving my Dorman ones tomorrow, will be interesting to see if they match your measurements and they're slightly different to spec as well. As long as they're all about the same it should be fine.

So you're going to install the ARP I assume, let us know how that goes.

Did you order the same Dorman studs? If not, can you share the part number?

 

[Firehuntah]

Did you order the same Dorman studs? If not, can you share the part number?

Yes, they're the exact same ones, 610-490.