Well I hope he's a good electrician or his salvage career could real short and smokey.He's the salvageking > likely his business to rebuild cars and sell for a profit- good hunting!
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Clean shiny salvage Tesla, should I buy this? - Noob question
- Thread starter salvageking
- Start date
My dad's told me that many time, and how I have been burned many times.
I'm not a dealer, but just a guy who can tackle a small project and likes to have some fun driving around. I'm not ready to lose big time without having seen the car from what I've learned here.
RayK
Active Member
You could throw $40 at Carfax.com and see what they say. A quick check of the VIN with them says they have 6 history records on the car.
Unfortunately, the title hasn't caught up to it. I ran a quick search which didn't show anything.
Check Any VIN - It's Free | Free Vehicle History and VIN Check
ibGeek
Member
If you get this car, there is a process to have Tesla re-certify it. If memory serves it is around $2500.00. That assumes that the car is in working order. In one of the pictures you can see the internal screen is on so that's a good sign. It does sound a little weird that the car is in this lot for the price it has looking the way it does. But it might be worth looking at.
There's certainly a lot of potential. If you can pick it up for 20k even if the battery needs to be replaced you'll likely be okay. Once you get to 30k Id be seeing red lights. 35k+ no way. I mean the salvage title is that there is greater than 75% value damage. Its there somewhere.
Watts_Up
Well-Known Member
I wonder if the propusion battery is still there?
The rear body seems a little lifted up (see the gap between the wheel arch and the rear tire).
ibGeek
Member
yep I bet the battery is gone. From what I've been told, the battery equates to about 1/3 to 1/2 of the cost of the car depending on the options included. And I'm not sure that you could get one from Tesla, so you'd be looking to get one out of another wrecked car. Doable, but a lot of work and at the end of the day probably not worth it when my Standard Plus only cost me 45k out the door with FSD.
I wonder if the propusion battery is still there?
The rear body seems a little lifted up (see the gap between the wheel arch and the rear tire).
I may have made that exact point a few hours ago upthread...
The listing says 75% damage, sounds like a headache. I would stay away from this one.
If anything, part it out, you can make more then the 10k selling it’s parts on EBay. The Battery if in good condition, $25,000 right there.
Fred
If anything, part it out, you can make more then the 10k selling it’s parts on EBay. The Battery if in good condition, $25,000 right there.
Fred
I don't think anyone is going to pay $25K for a used Tesla battery when a LR one from Tesla costs less (from what I've read).
bart_dood
Member
I may have made that exact point a few hours ago upthread...
Ad says runs and drives, so it will have the battery pack
That being said, I would always suggest seeing a car before bidding on any of these auto auctions.
I understand this one is far away from you, but get someone to go see it. These ones where you don't know the damage scare me more than the ones with damage. At least with damage, you know where the damage is, the cars are actually usually pretty easy to fix if it's all body damage.
As someone mentioned before, undercarriage damage would be a concern.
Maybe you have had a bad experience but I have not. Just bought a 2014 Dodge caravan SXT for only 2600 with 88k miles. Hit in rear, replaced hatch and bumper and it runs perfectly. Came with two keys and even found all dealer service records. Deals can be found at copart but I highly recommend viewing the cars in person. You can get scammed with covered up damage and other unscrupulous activity. Although rare, it does happen.
There have been other threads on TMC about "runs and drives" copart Teslas that turned out not to have the packs installed (no way it can actually drive without one, of course.)
I wouldn't bet on it having a pack.
Also know that the inside screen will power on as that will run on the 12 volt battery alone. The fact that the screen is on means nothing. Also, California is mostly where there were third party sellers that would list teslas on copart after they removed the main battery. This is why you really need to see it in person.
I'm surprised by this. Could you link any of those threads by any chance?
If this was the case, you can usually get the car returned and refunded. I have bought from a similar site to copart and had a car returned. I also had a friend buy a Tesla that the insurance document said was an AWD, but turned out to be a RWD and they offered to take it back (he decided to keep it though lol, the blinders these cars put on us)
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