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Hey All,

I usually keep my range gauge set to percentage but since I’ve only had the car a few days I flipped it to miles just to see. It looks like at 80% I’m at 257 miles…is that the norm for everyone. It didn’t make sense to me because I thought at 100% the EPA range on Tesla’s website is 335 so 80% of that should be like 270ish. Not a big deal but I recall on my last brand new Tesla it was pretty close to advertised range for the first few months. Curious what everyone else is seeing?
 
Hey All,

I usually keep my range gauge set to percentage but since I’ve only had the car a few days I flipped it to miles just to see. It looks like at 80% I’m at 257 miles…is that the norm for everyone. It didn’t make sense to me because I thought at 100% the EPA range on Tesla’s website is 335 so 80% of that should be like 270ish. Not a big deal but I recall on my last brand new Tesla it was pretty close to advertised range for the first few months. Curious what everyone else is seeing?
my 80% range is 278 on 20's and 264 on 22's with 6176 miles on the X. My EPA range from Tesla was 348. Im sure your car will average out as its still new and most likely trying to calibrate the battery.
 
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Hey All,

I usually keep my range gauge set to percentage but since I’ve only had the car a few days I flipped it to miles just to see. It looks like at 80% I’m at 257 miles…is that the norm for everyone. It didn’t make sense to me because I thought at 100% the EPA range on Tesla’s website is 335 so 80% of that should be like 270ish. Not a big deal but I recall on my last brand new Tesla it was pretty close to advertised range for the first few months. Curious what everyone else is seeing?
That is interesting. I don't have my X yet but my Y has 262 miles at 80% so I would assume X to have much higher than that at 80% for sure.
 
Hey All,

I usually keep my range gauge set to percentage but since I’ve only had the car a few days I flipped it to miles just to see. It looks like at 80% I’m at 257 miles…is that the norm for everyone. It didn’t make sense to me because I thought at 100% the EPA range on Tesla’s website is 335 so 80% of that should be like 270ish. Not a big deal but I recall on my last brand new Tesla it was pretty close to advertised range for the first few months. Curious what everyone else is seeing?
When new the range on my Y and my X was at the EPA range stated. It quickly fell over the next month by about 10-15 miles or so and then stabilized and has the slow creep down. I charge my X to 75% only to try to maximize the battery life and charge at home with my wall charger at 48A. My Y is a lease and only a standard range so I charge it to 85% because I don't want to get too low.
 
I am sure 2024 has the problem still since it is a design issue unless they engineered a better half shaft to deal with the suspension angles better. My end of 2023 X only has the issue if I 'get on it' at low speed and only feel it between 25-45MPH. It is a bit annoying but not like I hit the accelerator hard very often and it does not affect the traction or steering at all so it does not feel dangerous.

People have also complained about excessive camber in the rear wheels causing premature inner tire wear. I have 9K miles on mine already and see no extra tire wear on the inside tread so I don't seem to have it (or not nearly as bad) as some people have experienced stating at 15K miles their inner tire tread in the rear is bald.

There are solutions out there to permanently solve the tire wear issue with aftermarket parts but the front half shafts are a geometry issue that needs a redesign of the motor/transfer case position or some type of fix to the half shaft geometry.
Agree - my 2020 MX has three half shafts replacements - basically every 13k. Just picked up the 2024 MX, so far it's smooth like butter but expecting this to come up again (even though the techs say the new equipment should address it..)
 
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Agree - my 2020 MX has three half shafts replacements - basically every 13k. Just picked up the 2024 MX, so far it's smooth like butter but expecting this to come up again (even though the techs say the new equipment should address it..)
I really wonder what makes these half shafts wear out even faster. I see people having issues within 10K miles but then other cases like my neighbor who bought a 2017 new and never had half shaft issues and still drive it daily. Their commute on weekdays is about 100 miles a day. The car was so trouble free they bought a new one in 2022 and still have the 2017. The only maintenance they have done on the 2017 is a low voltage battery (regular car battery) replacement about a month ago. Since then, still going strong with no issues other than the creaks and rattles that plagued those cars. Falcon wing doors working great also with no issues.
 
This weekend my case was approved to go on a short hold after rejecting a vin with flaws. Just came off hold and was assigned to the same rejected vin.
Any advice? Considering another case to modify my order to include yoke steering instead. That's the only sacrifice I'd be willing to make.

Did you communicate that you already rejected the vin? Or inspect it again?
 
Did you communicate that you already rejected the vin? Or inspect it again?
Yeah, I mentioned I rejected the vin once before. She asked if I’d want it if they fixed the issues. I said no since the issues inside required removing panels. I’ve read enough SC stories to know it’s a huge risk you’re taking on day 1 with $100k when you let them put their hands on it.

They ended up adding the yoke to my order which I was already strongly considering when ordering.
 
Not much gravel roads around my Southern California concrete jungles. The freeways around LA are rough with varying sizes of potholes. So far with the sway bar, the ride is still good (of course that's subjective). I use to have the suspension comfort set to sport, that was a bit rough. I now have it set to Auto and feel it works well with the sway bar on uneven roads while still able to eliminate the body roll on turns/loops.
 
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Not much gravel roads around my Southern California concrete jungles. The freeways around LA are rough with varying sizes of potholes. So far with the sway bar, the ride is still good (of course that's subjective). I use to have the suspension comfort set to sport, that was a bit rough. I now have it set to Auto and feel it works well with the sway bar on uneven roads while still able to eliminate the body roll on turns/loops.

It sure does feel a bit like a horse carriage when stock. Is ok but doesn't go nicely together with the power. Soon I'll know. I'm just wondering if I should go straight to stiffest like many here, or even softest?
 
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It sure does feel a bit like a horse carriage when stock. Is ok but doesn't go nicely together with the power. Soon I'll know. I'm just wondering if I should go straight to stiffest like many here, or even softest?
I put on stiff from the get-go and in 4 months haven’t felt the need to adjust but also have not done AB testing of medium to stiff. On really bad pot holes the car can feel jarring but is otherwise great and these are the times you want to slow down anyway. Also not sure if the stock bar would do better on really bad holes this is mostly a suspension jolt, the sway bar is not a shock absorber, it just keeps the roll in check and can help with more neutral steering feel. It has to do more with cornering forces and in my experience has a positive effect on most but the harshest road imperfections of keeping the rear movements in check.
 
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