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Don’t you need an adapter cable from the propriety Tesla port to the standard OBDII port?
For my 2018 MS, I bought a standard OBD2 extension cable, localized the 12V source and crimped the ends to connect my device. I just plugged it straight into the port. Actually, now that I think about it, I did the same thing on my 2016 MS. Both times, the OBD port was located in the footwell, under the driver's side dash.
Here is what I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PAHHWM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
I forgot I also had a photo of the inside of that little trap door above the wireless charger pad, which shows the non-standard ODBII port:

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Yes, in my 2014 Model S there was a similar connector in the same area.
Thank you. I kind of jumped to the end of this thread, and was totally lost. My apologies for that. Yes, I see that this connector has been present on prior cars, and likely within all of mine. I am interested in getting a lighted applique for my refresh (as long as it works) and will need this port for that. It therefore will not be available as 12V access for my radar. I may have to get power directly from the battery, as it looks like there may not be a tradional OBD2 port as in my previous MS's, though I heard a rumor that it is in the rear on the M3, under the vent or something like that.
 
Thank you. I kind of jumped to the end of this thread, and was totally lost. My apologies for that. Yes, I see that this connector has been present on prior cars, and likely within all of mine. I am interested in getting a lighted applique for my refresh (as long as it works) and will need this port for that. It therefore will not be available as 12V access for my radar. I may have to get power directly from the battery, as it looks like there may not be a tradional OBD2 port as in my previous MS's, though I heard a rumor that it is in the rear on the M3, under the vent or something like that.
In my Model 3 there was a port behind the center console under the rear vents, between the two front seats, but it was also not a traditional ODBII port. I need to buy an adapter such as this one.
 
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I'll bet you your P85D does have a standard OBDII port.
It's in the driver's footwell tucked up under the dash above the dead-pedal.
I'm pretty sure all MS/MX up until Raven had this port.
I thought it was a US DOT legal requirement to have an OBDII port, even for an EV with no emissions info to report. But I've never plugged in a scan tool into mine to see what happens.
 
I thought it was a US DOT legal requirement to have an OBDII port, even for an EV with no emissions info to report. But I've never plugged in a scan tool into mine to see what happens.
That is what I thought too. Perhaps Tesla convinced them of the lack of utility for it, and hence it's removal. Alternatively, it is still there and hidden out of site.
I have been having discussions with a few people, both inside and outside of TMC. On the MS refresh, there is currently no known 12V access at this moment, with the exception of what has been discussed above. The new Li-ion battery apparently has no posts to connect to, having a proprietary (?) connector.
 
That is what I thought too. Perhaps Tesla convinced them of the lack of utility for it, and hence it's removal. Alternatively, it is still there and hidden out of site.
I have been having discussions with a few people, both inside and outside of TMC. On the MS refresh, there is currently no known 12V access at this moment, with the exception of what has been discussed above. The new Li-ion battery apparently has no posts to connect to, having a proprietary (?) connector.
I just checked my refreshed (2021) Model S and I’m pretty sure that there is a OBDII port in the driver’s footwell.
 

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I ordered a connector from Amazon. Hopefully it’s a 12v switched power on the port. Will report back tomorrow.
There is definitely an OBDII port in the refreshed (2021) Model S. Got connected to it and there is a 12 v pin there. However, it’s not switched power.

Also, checked the Tesla diagnostic port above the wireless charging pad and the best I can tell it is not switched power either. Still have power there with the car turned off. I’m using pin 20 for ground and pin 1 for the 12v. Maybe @rhuber can confirm?

I‘m trying to figure the best way to get power to a radar detector and want to make sure it’s switched power to avoid unnecessary battery drain.

Thanks. Brian
 
There is definitely an OBDII port in the refreshed (2021) Model S. Got connected to it and there is a 12 v pin there. However, it’s not switched power.

Also, checked the Tesla diagnostic port above the wireless charging pad and the best I can tell it is not switched power either. Still have power there with the car turned off. I’m using pin 20 for ground and pin 1 for the 12v. Maybe @rhuber can confirm?

I‘m trying to figure the best way to get power to a radar detector and want to make sure it’s switched power to avoid unnecessary battery drain.

Thanks. Brian
I’ve found the 12v on the Tesla diagnostic port (the one by the wireless charger) does shutdown after a period of time. Thanks.
 
I’ve found the 12v on the Tesla diagnostic port (the one by the wireless charger) does shutdown after a period of time. Thanks.
Thank you very much for your investigations. This is helpful.
Yes, others confirmed that the diagnostic port is switched.
As far as the OBD port goes, that is definitely non-switched in my current MS, and has been in my and MS's as well. That being said, I have an installed Escort 9500ci plugged into the OBD, and leave it on all the time. In fact, I have left it plugged in for many days with the car unplugged and undriven. Never have I had an issue. My guess is that the drain on the 12V battery is small, and readily recharged by the main battery.
 
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Super happy now 😁 Lol. I found a four pin connector that is not connected to anything behind the driver’s footwell. Took the multimeter to it and found switched 12v and a ground. Connected my old mirror tap to it for test and it works like a champ. Shuts down when I get out of the car and close the door. Turns back on when I open the door. It was a pain to get a good picture - sorry.
 

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Super happy now 😁 Lol. I found a four pin connector that is not connected to anything behind the driver’s footwell. Took the multimeter to it and found switched 12v and a ground. Connected my old mirror tap to it for test and it works like a champ. Shuts down when I get out of the car and close the door. Turns back on when I open the door. It was a pain to get a good picture - sorry.
That is fantastic. Strong work once again. I am not clear on exactly where In the footwell you found that. Can you please explain? I would also love to know the specific type of connector if anyone recognizes it. Would be nice to make a plug and play harness.
 
Super happy now 😁 Lol. I found a four pin connector that is not connected to anything behind the driver’s footwell. Took the multimeter to it and found switched 12v and a ground. Connected my old mirror tap to it for test and it works like a champ. Shuts down when I get out of the car and close the door. Turns back on when I open the door. It was a pain to get a good picture - sorry.
That is great news. Have you tried connecting anything with a load to it to see if it is monitored and causes alerts?

I have a Thinkware u1000 that prefers both switched and unswitched power. This port and the drivers footwell OBDII might have solved that problem for me.
 
That is fantastic. Strong work once again. I am not clear on exactly where In the footwell you found that. Can you please explain? I would also love to know the specific type of connector if anyone recognizes it. Would be nice to make a plug and play harness.
That is great news. Have you tried connecting anything with a load to it to see if it is monitored and causes alerts?

I have a Thinkware u1000 that prefers both switched and unswitched power. This port and the drivers footwell OBDII might have solved that problem for me.
I connected my Escort radar detector to it and it worked. Only backed in and out of the garage to make sure the power didn’t go off - didn’t get any alerts or anything but I’ll admit it wasn’t on much more than 10 minutes. Also, I figure the radar detector isn’t much of a load.
 
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