Coming soon in an update to my 3/Y DBC
(trying to find a few more messages first)
have you allready checked the factor of the power signales?
I think the factor is wrong, the power is to high on each motor.
vBat * MotorCurrent looks good.
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Coming soon in an update to my 3/Y DBC
(trying to find a few more messages first)
Thanks for posting this wiring diagram @rhuber !! Could you please share a link to the non-crimped cable I can buy, as well as what crimping tool I would need to create my own cable?Just to RE-UP on this, you cannot buy a premade Tesla diag cable and use it on the refresh cars, unless you have a device that is wired read can messages from OBD-II pins 12,13. If you use one of the existing cables, you will not have access to the Vehicle bus, which has arguably the most important/useful data. I have had success re-pinning a premade cable from Maxwell (they sent me some pre-crimped ones by mistake), but I don't recommend this, as the connector is troublesome to deal with.
Also, as a followup, I am finally posting info on the pins you want to crimp to get data on refresh cars. I'll add links to the Maxwell Auto cable datasheets as a reference for the sumitomo connector.
Note: (Pins 18 and 19 on the sumitomo are also populated on refresh and likely relate to the redundancy (party) bus, but there isn't much useful data on that bus and this is unconfirmed.)
View attachment 697205
This is the one you want for the tesla side (NOTE: not all pins are wired, and the ribbon cable is only 11 conductors, so use the reference sheet to figure out how to wire it up)Thanks for posting this wiring diagram @rhuber !! Could you please share a link to the non-crimped cable I can buy, as well as what crimping tool I would need to create my own cable?
Thank you so much - ordered both! Any recommendations on a decent Bluetooth ODBII scanner? I had a cheap ELM327 reader from Amazon that did fine with my Model 3, albeit with slow refresh rates (under 60fps), but I'm wondering if I should up the game and go for ODBLink LX or MX+.This is the one you want for the tesla side (NOTE: not all pins are wired, and the ribbon cable is only 11 conductors, so use the reference sheet to figure out how to wire it up)
And then buy any generic crimpable obdii connector. I've used these cheapos from amazon, and they've been fine so far:
Amazon.com: KIMISS OBD2 II 16Pin Female Connector J1962 OBDII Cable Car Auto Adapter Plug Shell Kit for GM J1962 : Automotive
Buy KIMISS OBD2 II 16Pin Female Connector J1962 OBDII Cable Car Auto Adapter Plug Shell Kit for GM J1962: Code Readers & Scan Tools - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchaseswww.amazon.com
Awesome work! How can we help with begging Maxwell to update the cables? Do you know a specific contact there?I also need help begging Maxwell to update the Model S cables to make the pin swaps needed for 2021 Model S, and apparently now 3 as well.
I submitted feedback / request for a new cable a while back using this contact form but haven't heard anything from them since:Awesome work! How can we help with begging Maxwell to update the cables? Do you know a specific contact there?
MX+… I'm wondering if I should up the game and go for ODBLink LX or MX+.
As I mentioned earlier, I had a cheap (like $12) ELM327 BT device that ran just fine with SMT, albeit with a low data rate, but it was good enough for my utilization.Save yourselves the learning expense and go for a dual bus CANserver, don't even bother with any BT devices. They neither have the data rate nor the dual bus capability to keep up. CANserver lets you log the full data stream to SDcard for later analysis - or connect in real-time via Wifi (which has enough bandwidth as opposed to BT).
Sweet! Does it work well with ODBLink's MX+?tesLAX 2.0 is rolling out to the app store and y'all should go get the new version!
https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/model-s-delivery-update.9489/page-3090#post-5830998
Yep, works pretty well with that one. The downside of the OBDLink ones is that they are only single-bus. Most of what you want will probably be on the Vehicle bus, but you'll miss some goodies. Drag strip timer may depend on two busses (GPS is on Chassis iirc), but I don't recall for sure.Sweet! Does it work well with ODBLink's MX+?
Thanks, I'll check out canserver. Do you have a link handy to where I could buy one?Yep, works pretty well with that one. The downside of the OBDLink ones is that they are only single-bus. Most of what you want will probably be on the Vehicle bus, but you'll miss some goodies. Drag strip timer may depend on two busses (GPS is on Chassis iirc), but I don't recall for sure.
Still highly recommend @JWardell and friendz canserver as a solid device for this. As a bonus, there is a huge empty space under the wireless phone charger in the S, so you can hide everything down inside that spot very easily. Super clean install, especially with a bluetooth or wifi CAN device.
Thanks, I'll check out canserver. Do you have a link handy to where I could buy one?
Cool, thank you. Any issues leaving it "on" all the time, such as vampire drain, car not going to sleep, 12V battery depleting, etc?![]()
You want the "dual bus obdii" one.