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Sorry not to check in for a few days. Seems we can't convince you that Powermagic at any size is more of a drain than without. You really really don't need it. Anyway, seems like an utter waste of money and time to use Power magic, but it's not harmful. Power magic just wastes power and will reduce your range a tiny amount no matter how it's connected (unless it has zero connection to the car). Going to the accessory socket just means it will waste more power over time as it discharges and requires to be recharged later on. Perhaps someone else can explain it better than I can.
I mean, it's a really minor difference. Lithium ion charging is ~95% efficient, so it's not going to waste that much power.
 
Used the ODB-II plug (pins 16 & 5) to hardwire a Uniden DFR7 with no issues. Ended up being the quickest hardwire install I've done in years.
So the radar turns off immediately when you get out of the car?
What about when you park at a mall with sentry mode in, is the radar on or off?

That’s my biggest issue, I feel I’m wasting extra power with the car locked and sentry on as the radar never turns off using many other power connection methods. I’m not sure about the obd switched power.
 
So the radar turns off immediately when you get out of the car?
What about when you park at a mall with sentry mode in, is the radar on or off?

That’s my biggest issue, I feel I’m wasting extra power with the car locked and sentry on as the radar never turns off using many other power connection methods. I’m not sure about the obd switched power.
Turns off within a minute or so of leaving the car
 
With all Teslas, the power remains in Sentry mode on most circuits, but a few do turn off like the 12v power plug in the console. For radar detectors, some units offer an option to turn off automatically if no vibration is detected.

Here is my in-depth testing and analysis of various Tesla models, various power tap points, and when they stay on and turn off: Accessory Power Guide 12v/5v – TeslaTap

I haven't got my hands on a Cybertruck to run the same tests yet!
 
With all Teslas, the power remains in Sentry mode on most circuits, but a few do turn off like the 12v power plug in the console. For radar detectors, some units offer an option to turn off automatically if no vibration is detected.

Here is my in-depth testing and analysis of various Tesla models, various power tap points, and when they stay on and turn off: Accessory Power Guide 12v/5v – TeslaTap

I haven't got my hands on a Cybertruck to run the same tests yet!
Have you found a good high-power tap point? I was thinking the audio amp power would be good for ~30A or so.
 
Have you found a good high-power tap point? I was thinking the audio amp power would be good for ~30A or so.
Sorry no. There may be other good tap points, but the eFuses may trip. Not super serious, but it can take time to reset. I blew the driver controls eFuse when I tried to pull 2 amps (for testing) and it took more than a week to reset. And before you ask, reboot and power down do not reset the eFuse. In my case, a software update reset the eFuse (just before I was going to take it in for service to fix). Now some eFuses also reset faster than others. The 12v power plug in the console should reset after 90 minutes and it's good for 12 amps continuous (16 amps peak).
 
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Hello, Has anyone found a 12V power source in the doors for the Refresh S yet?
Installing ambient light strips, got the dashboard done, but stuck at the doors as I cant find a 12V source

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I found this video where the installer used power from a module in the X doors, but it doesnt look like the S has that module
 
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Hello, Has anyone found a 12V power source for the Refresh S yet?
Installing ambient light strips, got the center console down, but stuck at the doors as I cant find a 12V source

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I found this video where the installer used power from a module in the X doors, but it doesnt look like the S has that module
I used this power tap (white connector in photo) in my 21 Plaid. As I recall it was for towing/trailer equipment. I think it went away after a while but if it is in your harness it is perfect.
 

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I used this power tap (white connector in photo) in my 21 Plaid. As I recall it was for towing/trailer equipment. I think it went away after a while but if it is in your harness it is perfect.
I have a 21LR, so it seems I should most likely have that, thats in the driver side footwell?
Still need to find a source for the other 3 doors then... hmm
 
I have a 21LR, so it seems I should most likely have that, thats in the driver side footwell?
Still need to find a source for the other 3 doors then... hmm
Yes. That is in the drivers side footwell. I used it to power my dashcam so I ran it up the A pillar and across the top of the windshield. It should be easy to run it from one side of the dash to the other.
 
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Hello, Has anyone found a 12V power source for the Refresh S yet?
Installing ambient light strips, got the center console down, but stuck at the doors as I cant find a 12V source
First, a minor point - there are no 12v sources in the 2021+ S/X, as they are 16v (usually around 15.7v). This means those 12v LED strips will run a bit hot and may fail over time. If you use a controller, you can dim the brightness a bit and I expect you'll be ok. If the LEDs are specifically designed for cars, then they are meant to run at 13.5v or so - typical in older cars with Lead-acid batteries. Still, everyone calls the 16v system 12v for convenience - just be aware it's not 12v.

I made an extensive list and tested each for power capability and when they turn on and off. This includes the latest S/X/3/Y as well as some of the older models back to 2016. Different models work differently. Here are the details: Accessory Power Guide 12v/5v – TeslaTap

For my 2022 Model S I use the power from the phone charger for my LED lighting. In my design, I use 5V addressable LEDs, so I use a DC-DC inverter to get the 5V I need. The phone charger is very easy to access (no screws) and it has relatively high power (at least 2 amps). Here's how to make a tap along with all the connector information. Power Tap – TeslaTap
 
First, a minor point - there are no 12v sources in the 2021+ S/X, as they are 16v (usually around 15.7v). This means those 12v LED strips will run a bit hot and may fail over time. If you use a controller, you can dim the brightness a bit and I expect you'll be ok. If the LEDs are specifically designed for cars, then they are meant to run at 13.5v or so - typical in older cars with Lead-acid batteries. Still, everyone calls the 16v system 12v for convenience - just be aware it's not 12v.

I made an extensive list and tested each for power capability and when they turn on and off. This includes the latest S/X/3/Y as well as some of the older models back to 2016. Different models work differently. Here are the details: Accessory Power Guide 12v/5v – TeslaTap

For my 2022 Model S I use the power from the phone charger for my LED lighting. In my design, I use 5V addressable LEDs, so I use a DC-DC inverter to get the 5V I need. The phone charger is very easy to access (no screws) and it has relatively high power (at least 2 amps). Here's how to make a tap along with all the connector information. Power Tap – TeslaTap
Thanks, I checked earlier and the manufacture rates this kit good for 9-20v so 16v is ok, thanks for the heads up.
I've actually been using your website for this install, super helpful, thanks for making that!
I used the phone charger power for the dashboard lights per your website, and will use it for the center console lights as well.
But doors are where im stuck. I found a power source for the X, but doesnt seem to be anything for the S unfortunately.
 
The power feed to the centre console charger tray is an excellent candidate for low voltage power.

@Get Your Wheels.... I started a thread here to collect installs of ambient lights in Palladium S cars. Appreciate if you could find and post your solution as I find people all over the threads looking for this.
 
It is more + than 2 amps. I use that power tap to drive my manually operated screen tilt motors with no problem. I put a safety breaker inline (5 amp) as the motors torque up when they reach the end limits and it will pop the 5 amp breaker without affecting power to the tray
 
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