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So I have been lazy... finally got off my ass and installed it...
Here is my solution to that problem!
I just did the same today to upgrade my 2018 Model 3 to a LR AWD so I put in my order and immediately got a VIN within 30 minutes.Hey everyone I am going through the thread searching to see what is new. Can anyone point me in a direction or let me know what to look out for ie which VIN I should be wanting over the other, which specs are new etc. I know there are always new things. I have a 2021 model Y and 2022 model 3. Looking to see if I should trade my model 3 and get another model y. Thanks
Thanks will search these keywords.I just did the same today to upgrade my 2018 Model 3 to a LR AWD so I put in my order and immediately got a VIN within 30 minutes.
It assigned me a VIN from Austin which doesn't have the new Matrix LED headlights so I asked them to reassign me a VIN which they did to a Fremont build. Looks like cars built now all have HW4 too which seem to be the two big things (rule of thumb is any VIN over F789500).
I’m guessing that site’s info is just outdated. An F in the 8th character means Performance trim, I don’t think it necessarily designates which motor type. Another source makes no reference to the motor type for that character: https://cdn.motor1.com/pdf-files/tesla-my2023-vin-decoder.pdfGot my VIN for the 2023 YP order last week, it has an F for the 8th character, which apparnetly is “F = Dual Motor – Performance – standard winding (designated for Model Y)”. I thought all the new stuff was getting hairpin winding? You guys talk of 4D1 rear drive unit being indeed hairpin, but how can that be if the F shows standard winding (according to findmyelectric .com)?
Thx. So has Tesla just stopped producing the standard winding units all together? At least for the Performance variants (which would mean all 3 factories that make them, Fremont Berlin and Shanghai)?I’m guessing that site’s info is just outdated. An F in the 8th character means Performance trim, I don’t think it necessarily designates which motor type. Another source makes no reference to the motor type for that character: https://cdn.motor1.com/pdf-files/tesla-my2023-vin-decoder.pdf
I have the same seat covers as you.So I have been lazy... finally got off my ass and installed it...
It looks pretty damn good.. I did it during the day and picked up my daughter for summer school.. she didn't recognize it's me... As our interior change from black to white
I have not seen that warning in my Y. That really sux sorry to hear.I have the same seat covers as you.
Do you have an issue with the passenger seat airbag not activating with a passenger <120 lbs sitting in the seat?
The airbag activates without an issue with the cover off.
Thank you. I'm glad I'm no the only one. QMerit is a needless middle man and a scam. You pay them $150 to find a local electrician, then that local electrician gouges you. They wanted $2,700 to install my wall connector. I had a licensed electrician do it for $800.QMerit is a rip off. They were quoting me like $2,000 to install the NEMA 14-50 plug. I got my local LICENSED electrician to do it for like $400.
I spent around $2500 for installation of a Tesla charger + overhead run to our detached garage and a separate external NEMA 14-50 on the side of our house. Prices will vary depending upon where you live. Urban and wealthier suburb areas will likely pay more.Thank you. I'm glad I'm no the only one. QMerit is a needless middle man and a scam. You pay them $150 to find a local electrician, then that local electrician gouges you. They wanted $2,700 to install my wall connector. I had a licensed electrician do it for $800.
I'm in SoCAL and was charged $225 by a local electrician. We're a high price target here, and since local utilities offered subsidies the quotes have 'adjusted'.I spent around $2500 for installation of a Tesla charger + overhead run to our detached garage and a separate external NEMA 14-50 on the side of our house. Prices will vary depending upon where you live. Urban and wealthier suburb areas will likely pay more.
Also hey all!!! - thought this thread was dead!
My MYLR has been working really well so far - the only issue was the driver seat sensor (a known MY issue) stopped working which they replaced under warranty. Other than that it's been fantastic.
- I bought a roof cage to go on top of the roof rack which we use for our soft carrier when vacationing.
- I just recently installed the front screen swivel which works great and recommend.
- I ended up removing the Hansshow rear screen - it seemed to cause glitches in the system. To be fair there is a newer model available that likely works better but I am $$$ tapped out..
- Just got some wheel lock nuts am going to install soon.
Anyway hope everyone's experiences have been good.. kinda bummed about the Model Y getting updated so soon after purchasing but that's life I guess.
Wow that is crazy cheap... I'm near Philadelphia - one run was 50 feet the other was more like 100. The local electric company does have incentives as well.I'm in SoCAL and was charged $225 by a local electrician. We're a high price target here, and since local utilities offered subsidies the quotes have 'adjusted'.
He ran 8 feet of wires between service panel and outlet and installed a new breaker, after I put in conduit to the service panel and mounted a Hubbell NEMA 14-50 outlet.
He provided the breaker and conductors, and the labor, thru to the service panel.
In short, I did most of the manual labor and he did the electrical. An couple hours of my time, an hour of his in the end.
Pricing seems to depend on how you present your needs.
Which Hubbell NEMA 14-50 receptacle - HBL9450A or RR450F?...and mounted a Hubbell NEMA 14-50 outlet.
I just used the Mobile Connector, and it was only 8 feet of conductors plus a breaker. Stupid simple for the electrician.Wow that is crazy cheap... I'm near Philadelphia - one run was 50 feet the other was more like 100. The local electric company does have incentives as well.