Today, for the first time, I rotated the wheels on my 3LR. Approx 17,000kms. Total time 1hr25m which included getting the car out of the garage, emptying the boot, assembling materials, doing the work, retrieving a lug nut which roiled down a drain which was under the car, returning car to garage and refilling boot, doing tyre reset in the car.
I used two pucks, one 10T chassis stand, 200NM torque wrench set to 175NM. 21mm socket with short extension. Wheel Brace (good quality). two wheel choks.
Tyre wear looks good and same as far as I can tell front and rear.
I did passenger side first, jacking the front. I first loosened all nuts and discovered to my surprise that every nut was about half the specified torque! Glad I did this work now before the wheels fell off......
The front wheel was very high (250mm or more) before I got the rear off the ground and with the chassis stand under there, the rear had about 80mm clearance. The jack managed but it would not have gone much further (spec says max 380mm).
I used a Vevor 2.5tonne single cylinder trolley jack. This worked fine. However a 3 tonne twin cylinder would be better.
I minimised the wheel-off time for the jacked wheel as the jack is less trustworthy than the chassis stand.
For the driver's side, I tried jacking the rear and this was slightly easier so I'll do it that way next time.
Overall, a simple and relatively quick job. I'll be faster next time. The wear probably did not need rotation, but it won't do any harm and it is good to have the wheel nuts all at the correct torque. I cannot imagine they have all loosened themselves so the conclusion is that they were probably not torqued right at the factory.
I used two pucks, one 10T chassis stand, 200NM torque wrench set to 175NM. 21mm socket with short extension. Wheel Brace (good quality). two wheel choks.
Tyre wear looks good and same as far as I can tell front and rear.
I did passenger side first, jacking the front. I first loosened all nuts and discovered to my surprise that every nut was about half the specified torque! Glad I did this work now before the wheels fell off......
The front wheel was very high (250mm or more) before I got the rear off the ground and with the chassis stand under there, the rear had about 80mm clearance. The jack managed but it would not have gone much further (spec says max 380mm).
I used a Vevor 2.5tonne single cylinder trolley jack. This worked fine. However a 3 tonne twin cylinder would be better.
I minimised the wheel-off time for the jacked wheel as the jack is less trustworthy than the chassis stand.
For the driver's side, I tried jacking the rear and this was slightly easier so I'll do it that way next time.
Overall, a simple and relatively quick job. I'll be faster next time. The wear probably did not need rotation, but it won't do any harm and it is good to have the wheel nuts all at the correct torque. I cannot imagine they have all loosened themselves so the conclusion is that they were probably not torqued right at the factory.