Is there an app available for Teslas to convert kWh’s added into miles added. The Tesla app doesn’t show this info as far as I can see.
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kWh to Miles
- Thread starter Pagemakers
- Start date
tonyj01
Member
No app, as you cannot say how many miles you have added.
When you used to buy petrol you don't roll up and say "I'll have 200 miles, please" - you buy £50 or 7 gallons, or fill up to top. If you bought 7 gallons in a car that generally does 30mpg, you might get 210 miles. But it might be warmer, you go on a ling run, you get 230 miles from those gallons. Or it might be cold and wet, you get 180 miles, and you notice the car is down to a quarter full, you top up again.
Tony
When you used to buy petrol you don't roll up and say "I'll have 200 miles, please" - you buy £50 or 7 gallons, or fill up to top. If you bought 7 gallons in a car that generally does 30mpg, you might get 210 miles. But it might be warmer, you go on a ling run, you get 230 miles from those gallons. Or it might be cold and wet, you get 180 miles, and you notice the car is down to a quarter full, you top up again.
Tony
ACarneiro
Active Member
I don’t see the point, any more than you deciding to say how many miles of petrol you’ve added to your ICE car.
Sorry, this is a wholly unhelpful post but I really wish people would just use proper units, it messes with my OCD
Sorry, this is a wholly unhelpful post but I really wish people would just use proper units, it messes with my OCD
Fair cop. I guess why I’m asking is after charging and getting the 2nd bill of the day I was thinking “I wonder how many miles I’ve added for £36”. Just seemed expensive to me. I do see your points though.
When charging you can tap the miles or % on the screen and it will toggle between the two so you can see how many rated miles you’ve added for the kWh added. Alternatively, if you want real world miles, use the trip computers. You just need to do the division yourself either way.
Appreciate that but after the event there seems to be no way of knowing how many miles were added.
Astrape
Member
Teslafi gives a an average conversion into miles added on each charge. If you like having lots of visualisation of what charging and driving is doing with the battery its a helpful tool and allows you to review charging / driving history. It’s a £5 monthly sub with a months free trial so you can see what it looks like and decide if it gives you anything.
I agree though kWh is obviously going to have a level of rounding error. They need to report it in how many electron-volt's are added to the battery to be accurate.I don’t see the point, any more than you deciding to say how many miles of petrol you’ve added to your ICE car.
Sorry, this is a wholly unhelpful post but I really wish people would just use proper units, it messes with my OCD
Um. The math is pretty simple. On the car's sticker, there's the efficiency number: Watt-hours/mile. On my 2018 M3 LR RWD, this was listed as 250 W-hr/mile.
Now, in most places in the U.S., the charges at a Supercharger are listed in $0.xx/kW-hr. So, it's pretty simple: ($0.xx/kW-hr) * (0.25 kW-hr/mile) = $0.xx/4 dollars/mile. In other words, just divide the cost per kW-hr by 4 and One Is There.
It gets a bit more difficult if one is at one of those Superchargers where they charge per minute, and the charge per minute changes based upon the wattage one is using. So, (making something up) if one is charging at 50 kW, then the charge might be $0.15/minute; at 75 kW, then it might be $0.20/minute; if at 200 kW or up, it might be $0.30/minute. Which makes the simple math above, well, ridiculously complex.
But there's an easy out: On the charging screen, after one has finished charging, there is both the amount of kW-hr's of the last charging session and the cost, never mind all the funny business with changing rates. In which case:
Cost_per_mile = (Total_Cost_of_Charging_Session/Number_of_kW-hrs_for_that_session) * (Car_efficiency (in kW-hr/mile))
And that works whether one is playing in U.S. Dollars, Pounds, or Euros.
The only problem, if one can call it that, is that the Efficiency number for the car, well, that varies. It's better in warm weather than cold; it's better when one is driving slower rather than faster; and jack-rabbit starts and stops dings a car's efficiency just as badly with a BEV as with an ICEV.
For some probably anal-retentive reason, during all the time I drove an ICEV (and we're going back to the 1970's, sheesh) I kept one of those little books into which one would write how much one paid for gas, as well as the odometer reading. When I was good and bored I'd take out that little book and do math:
MpG = (Current_mileage - Previous_mileage)/Amount_of_Gasoline_Bought.
It was mildly useful: If the gas mileage dropped substantially, then there was something wrong with the car. The VW I used to drive back in the day got itself a carburetor overhaul a couple of times and, on one memorable occasion, the distributor (whose bearings had were worn) was swapped out, all of which put the car back to its (original) 30 mpg rating. That kind of thing pretty much stopped around year 2000 or so, when cars got electronic engine controls. Or they got more reliable, or both. I guess that kind of thing might be useful for a Tesla, seeing as Tesla's are relatively new and Strange Things Might Happen that could be picked up by such a log. Dunno, though, probably not worth the trouble.
Now, in most places in the U.S., the charges at a Supercharger are listed in $0.xx/kW-hr. So, it's pretty simple: ($0.xx/kW-hr) * (0.25 kW-hr/mile) = $0.xx/4 dollars/mile. In other words, just divide the cost per kW-hr by 4 and One Is There.
It gets a bit more difficult if one is at one of those Superchargers where they charge per minute, and the charge per minute changes based upon the wattage one is using. So, (making something up) if one is charging at 50 kW, then the charge might be $0.15/minute; at 75 kW, then it might be $0.20/minute; if at 200 kW or up, it might be $0.30/minute. Which makes the simple math above, well, ridiculously complex.
But there's an easy out: On the charging screen, after one has finished charging, there is both the amount of kW-hr's of the last charging session and the cost, never mind all the funny business with changing rates. In which case:
Cost_per_mile = (Total_Cost_of_Charging_Session/Number_of_kW-hrs_for_that_session) * (Car_efficiency (in kW-hr/mile))
And that works whether one is playing in U.S. Dollars, Pounds, or Euros.
The only problem, if one can call it that, is that the Efficiency number for the car, well, that varies. It's better in warm weather than cold; it's better when one is driving slower rather than faster; and jack-rabbit starts and stops dings a car's efficiency just as badly with a BEV as with an ICEV.
For some probably anal-retentive reason, during all the time I drove an ICEV (and we're going back to the 1970's, sheesh) I kept one of those little books into which one would write how much one paid for gas, as well as the odometer reading. When I was good and bored I'd take out that little book and do math:
MpG = (Current_mileage - Previous_mileage)/Amount_of_Gasoline_Bought.
It was mildly useful: If the gas mileage dropped substantially, then there was something wrong with the car. The VW I used to drive back in the day got itself a carburetor overhaul a couple of times and, on one memorable occasion, the distributor (whose bearings had were worn) was swapped out, all of which put the car back to its (original) 30 mpg rating. That kind of thing pretty much stopped around year 2000 or so, when cars got electronic engine controls. Or they got more reliable, or both. I guess that kind of thing might be useful for a Tesla, seeing as Tesla's are relatively new and Strange Things Might Happen that could be picked up by such a log. Dunno, though, probably not worth the trouble.
MrBadger
Badger out
Except car efficiency varies considerably for numerous reasons and is not a fixed constant.
Plus in the UK we don't get a windscreen sticker so most will have no clue as to what efficiency figures mean let alone in real life. Best guess is average figure in e
Oh yes, and we (mostly) run our boilers on gas...
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For what it's worth: I've heard scary things about the EU's idea of gasoline and BEV efficiency numbers. Like, for example, car manufacturers putting duct tape over door handles and doing unrealistic things that result in wildly inflated efficiency numbers.
On the other hand: The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (why them? No clue) are the people who actually hand out efficiency numbers in the 'States. Now, I've heard complaints about them, too: But, in my experience, the numbers they put up match pretty blame close to what I've actually gotten. And, when it turns out that some auto manufacturer has Fudged The Numbers, they got Lawyers with Teef Like This that go to said manufacturers and hit them with fines that make said manufacturers very, very sad. And upset. And that they pay. Poster Child of EPA Lawyer Action: VW Group and Diesel Gate. You all do realize that VW is putting in DC Fast Chargers everywhere in the U.S. because of the settlements from Diesel Gate, right?
In any case, chase over to the EPA web site, get the efficiency number for your make and model, and you'll be roughly in the center of the range, plus or minus one's day at the track.
Um. The furnace here is on (natural) gas, as well. Strange, we use the same word for both items.
The energy screen is your friend here, as it will help you judge the "true" energy use of the car for your driving style. You will notice, even more than an ICE car, how widely energy use varies, but after a while you will get a ball-park feel for the cars consumption, and thus what to expect from each kWh you "pump" into the battery.
ZenRockGarden
Active Member
LiamPope
Member
Do you remember what your battery % was before you charged? See how many miles it takes to get back down to that.
Astrape
Member
So this needs an always on device to poll the data off the API and collate it?
I guess thats not quite free if you dont already have an always on device, and the know how to set the tool up.
Looks nice. Would it run in my QNAP NAS? Is it hard to get going if you never ran anything in the NAS box except the file storage?
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