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Mini Spare For Model 3, Hyundai Genesis 18" works

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I like this one for front and rear :) :)
 
I was just wondering if there is any issue with using the compact spare thats a different width than the stock wheels? I know that cars with LSDs / AWD would have gear issues by running the wrong sizes but I didn't know if that was a real concern with electric motors...
 
I bought a Hyundai Genesis 18" spare on ebay for $100 with free shipping. I mounted it front and back and took a drive each time for a few miles. It works perfectly. The standard Tesla lug nuts fit the wheel just fine. The tire that comes on this spare is easily rated for the weight of the Model 3. Diameter is the same as tires that come on the 3. This mini spare takes up way less room in your trunk and weighs 15 pounds less than bringing along a full size Aero wheel and tire.

I would suggest only carrying a spare if you are going off to areas with little to no Tesla service and especially no cell service. I spend a fair amount of time on the Navajo and Hopi lands where one needs to be self sufficient. In most cases a plug kit and compressor is all you need but there is always the small chance of a complete blowout.

I recommend you buy one or two of these jack pads to carry with you along with a scissors jack and breaker bar with short extension and 21mm socket. My preferred: Jack Pad: Tesla

I’m originally from Navajo-Hopi land. Tuba City High School graduate (1988), and Rocky Ridge boarding school (elementary). Thanks for the info on the spare! I bought a mini Beemer replacement that works well, but cost double what you paid. Great find! Where can you charge up besides Holbrook? The distances on the Rez are so great. I’d like to take a Monument Valley trip with my kids over Christmas break.
 
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I’m originally from Navajo-Hopi land. Tuba City High School graduate (1988), and Rocky Ridge boarding school (elementary). Thanks for the info on the spare! I bought a mini Beemer replacement that works well, but cost double what you paid. Great find! Where can you charge up besides Holbrook? The distances on the Rez are so great. I’d like to take a Monument Valley trip with my kids over Christmas break.
For charging you have Superchargers in Flagstaff, Holbrook, and Blanding. Destination charging in Tuba City. Gouldings, Monument Valley, and Tuba City have RV spaces with Nema 14-50. Fabulous La Posada Inn in Winslow has 80 amp Tesla chargers as well. In Bluff Ut, the wonderful Recapture Lodge of "The Monkey Wrench Gang" fame has 120 overnight and also in Bluff, the Twin Rocks Trading Post has two J1772 free chargers. With a long range Model 3, and even my previous S85, Navajo lands are pretty easy. When I visit friends at Hopi First Mesa, I always end up giving the folks rides in my car. Rumor has it Kayenta will have a Supercharger coming, it will be a perfect location. If you do not have the Plugshare app on your phone, I would highly recommend it.
 
For charging you have Superchargers in Flagstaff, Holbrook, and Blanding. Destination charging in Tuba City. Gouldings, Monument Valley, and Tuba City have RV spaces with Nema 14-50. Fabulous La Posada Inn in Winslow has 80 amp Tesla chargers as well. In Bluff Ut, the wonderful Recapture Lodge of "The Monkey Wrench Gang" fame has 120 overnight and also in Bluff, the Twin Rocks Trading Post has two J1772 free chargers. With a long range Model 3, and even my previous S85, Navajo lands are pretty easy. When I visit friends at Hopi First Mesa, I always end up giving the folks rides in my car. Rumor has it Kayenta will have a Supercharger coming, it will be a perfect location. If you do not have the Plugshare app on your phone, I would highly recommend it.
Thank you for the great Rez charging info!
 
I bought a Hyundai Genesis 18" spare on ebay for $100 with free shipping. I mounted it front and back and took a drive each time for a few miles. It works perfectly. The standard Tesla lug nuts fit the wheel just fine. The tire that comes on this spare is easily rated for the weight of the Model 3. Diameter is the same as tires that come on the 3. This mini spare takes up way less room in your trunk and weighs 15 pounds less than bringing along a full size Aero wheel and tire.

I would suggest only carrying a spare if you are going off to areas with little to no Tesla service and especially no cell service. I spend a fair amount of time on the Navajo and Hopi lands where one needs to be self sufficient. In most cases a plug kit and compressor is all you need but there is always the small chance of a complete blowout.

I recommend you buy one or two of these jack pads to carry with you along with a scissors jack and breaker bar with short extension and 21mm socket. My preferred: Jack Pad: Tesla

Gene, Thanks for the great information. I am new to TMC so I hope I am doing this correctly. I am looking at getting a Hyundai Genesis 18". However there seems to be a number of different options (e.g., 10-16, 10-18, etc. HYUNDAI GENESIS SEDAN OEM 18" 135/80/18 DONUT SPARE TIRE). Which one did you purchase and did you have an issue with the 10mm brake rotor bolt?

Thanks in advance for your help

John
 
Hi John,
The specs you mention 10-16 and 10-18 I have no knowledge of. I simply bought on ebay: HYUNDAI GENESIS SEDAN OEM 18" 135/80/18 DONUT SPARE. Maybe someone else can comment.

In regard to the 10mm bolt securing the rotor to the hub, I simply carry a 10mm wrench to remove the bolt should I need to mount the spare. I have been a pro mechanic over 40 years. That 10mm bolt is not necessary, it is simply there for manufacture and service convenience so that if the wheels and calipers are removed, the rotor will not slip off. Once you bolt down a wheel to the hub in which the rotor is sandwiched between hub and wheel, that rotor ain't goin' nowhere! Most cars do not even have a rotor bolt nor screw.
 
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Hi John,
The specs you mention 10-16 and 10-18 I have no knowledge of. I simply bought on ebay: HYUNDAI GENESIS SEDAN OEM 18" 135/80/18 DONUT SPARE. Maybe someone else can comment.

In regard to the 10mm bolt securing the rotor to the hub, I simply carry a 10mm wrench to remove the bolt should I need to mount the spare. I have been a pro mechanic over 40 years. That 10mm bolt is not necessary, it is simply there for manufacture and service convenience so that if the wheels and calipers are removed, the rotor will not slip off. Once you bolt down a wheel to the hub in which the rotor is sandwiched between hub and wheel, that rotor ain't goin' nowhere! Most cars do not even have a rotor bolt nor screw.

Thanks Gene
 
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I only have my phone with me so its hard to look up. You need to get the specs for both tires, essentially the diameter. You can go to tirerack.com. Get the tire that is closest diameter to the stock tires on the Model 3. Too much differential between tire diameters may set off alarm bells on the Model 3. What's more, on any car, if you use different diameters on any drive axle you, at the least overwork the differential or, trick the car into thinking one wheel is spinning too fast and set into action traction control.
In my case, I have a RWD Model 3. On any RWD car or truck, if I was to have a rear flat, which is the drive axle, I would take a good tire off the front, move it to the rear, then put the spare up front where there is only a passive axle with, obviously, no differential nor traction control.
 
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It's not that Tesla feels it is unnecessary, it is just general trend across the whole industry. In the ever more increasing push for more fuel economy, carrying dead weight of spare and jack that may never be used was easy place to cut out weight. Most times the pump and tire sealant are just as adequate in a pinch without the weight penalty. Last time I had a vehicle with an actual spare tire was 2000 when I had a pickup truck. Every car since then just had pump and tire sealant and have never needed to use. I'm sure I just jinxed myself. :p
I had a blowout on my Suburban this past weekend and called AAA. Their first question was “do you have a spare” I thought it was a weird question, but perhaps that is the way it is nowadays.
 
I only have my phone with me so its hard to look up. You need to get the specs for both tires, essentially the diameter. You can go to tirerack.com. Get the tire that is closest diameter to the stock tires on the Model 3. Too much differential between tire diameters may set off alarm bells on the Model 3. What's more, on any car, if you use different diameters on any drive axle you, at the least overwork the differential or, trick the car into thinking one wheel is spinning too fast and set into action traction control.
In my case, I have a RWD Model 3. On any RWD car or truck, if I was to have a rear flat, which is the drive axle, I would take a good tire off the front, move it to the rear, then put the spare up front where there is only a passive axle with, obviously, no differential nor traction control.

Thanks Gene
 
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Reviving this thread 6 months later, because I just finished this. Bought an 18" spare from a Hyundai Genesis on eBay. About $90. It was in great shape. Didn't come w/ the tire and valve stem. Bought the tire from tirerack.com. Got a valve stem from Autozone. Took it to a place in the barrio who mounted it for $7. And, he damaged the wheel. :mad: I don't think I saw anything mentioned, but the Hyundai spare has a hub size of 67.1mm. The Tesla is 64.1. So, I found some aluminum hub centric rings on eBay (67.1 to 64.1) and they fit perfect. Mounted the spare tire this evening and took it for a spin, hitting 50mph a few times to see if I needed to get it balanced. The car rides smooth at that speed, even w/ the damaged spare wheel. As for mounting. I bought a couple of ratchet tie downs from Harbor Freight Tools. Took off the plastic at the top of the trunk edge and mounted the wheel there. It doesn't move at all!
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Hi John,
The specs you mention 10-16 and 10-18 I have no knowledge of. I simply bought on ebay: HYUNDAI GENESIS SEDAN OEM 18" 135/80/18 DONUT SPARE. Maybe someone else can comment.

In regard to the 10mm bolt securing the rotor to the hub, I simply carry a 10mm wrench to remove the bolt should I need to mount the spare. I have been a pro mechanic over 40 years. That 10mm bolt is not necessary, it is simply there for manufacture and service convenience so that if the wheels and calipers are removed, the rotor will not slip off. Once you bolt down a wheel to the hub in which the rotor is sandwiched between hub and wheel, that rotor ain't goin' nowhere! Most cars do not even have a rotor bolt nor screw.

True, the 10mm bolt is not needed. on my aftermarket wheels, I ended up using a lower profile bolt and it worked too.