brulaz
Member
It's in the manual IIRC. Yep:Really? That's excellent, if true. Do you have a reference?
NOTE: The following will not open the front trunk if Model 3 is locked and has 12V power.
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It's in the manual IIRC. Yep:Really? That's excellent, if true. Do you have a reference?
NOTE: The following will not open the front trunk if Model 3 is locked and has 12V power.
Really? That's excellent, if true. Do you have a reference?
This seems like too much work for something that will probably never occur.This seems to be the best strategy.
1. Hide a 12v A23 battery behind the tow access cover, so you can open the frunk if your car's 12v is dead.
2. Keep a battery jump starter in the frunk, to allow you to start the car and drive to a service center,
I stopped at this location yesterday to try and get a quick charge on my way home but only got 34 kW! I wasn’t sharing stall and the location was about half full. What’s up with that?
I believe the Cody pin on the Tesla SuC map was removed. I wish they would try Greybull as an option. Even if just seasonal with a couple portable units in the Void area. We love tent camping up in the Big Horns but Sheridan is on the wrong side for us with little to no L2 options either any where near where we stay up on US16 Alt.
It would really nice to have a charger between Laytonville and Eureka to split that 112 mile gap..... Such as Garberville or Benbow or Garberville. Then again if CCS1 adapter ever gets released then the CCS stations at Benbow and One Log House could be used.
I would just replace it on your birthday.How long does an A23 or 9V stay fresh, stuck behind the tow eye cover?
The only references are that I've tried it, and it states the exact same thing in the owner's manual. I'm sure if you wanted to you could find YouTube videos showing the same. But by all means, you should try it. Then you will have practice and know what to do if your 12v battery dies.Really? That's excellent, if true. Do you have a reference?
It really isnt much work, it's going to take about 5 minutes to hide a battery, and a lot of people already own battery power packs as it is way more convenient than having to ask a stranger. You can buy them at costco for less than $100.This seems like too much work for something that will probably never occur.
And if your battery dies suddenly, there is a very big chance that a battery jump starter won't be able to raise the voltage enough to get the car started because at that point the 12V battery will be acting like a giant current sink.
If the car stopped charging the 12V battery, there's a good reason. Charging a battery that failed leads to bad things happening.
AND, EVERYTHING YOU WANT TO ACCOMPLISH CAN BE ACCOMPLISHED WITH A HELPFUL STRANGER WITH JUMPER CABLES.....
so how did you test the A23? you disconnected the 12V first?Not unless you leave the car unlocked. The frunk will only jump open if the 12v battery is dead or the car is unlocked.
A better idea is to put an A23 battery in a ziplock and stick behind the tow hook cover. That's what I did and I've tested to make sure it works. The A23 battery is a tiny 12v battery that's used in my keyfobs.
I tested it by unlocking my car and popping open the frunk 3 times. If I ever have issues with the A23 not putting out enough current, I can use 2 in parallel because I put 2 behind the tow hook cover in a ziplock bag. They come 2 to a pack and 2 for perfectly behind the tow hook cover.so how did you test the A23? you disconnected the 12V first?
surprising that such small batteries can provide sufficient current to pop open the frunk, with the A23 being less than half the size of a 9V, therefore less than half the current output.... it appears that standard alkaline 9V are about 500maH whereas A23's are 50-100maH. So quite a bit less current output from an A23.
(anybody know the current required to pop the frunk?)
Hey are you still making the USB-C retrofit adapters?This seems like too much work for something that will probably never occur.
And if your battery dies suddenly, there is a very big chance that a battery jump starter won't be able to raise the voltage enough to get the car started because at that point the 12V battery will be acting like a giant current sink.
If the car stopped charging the 12V battery, there's a good reason. Charging a battery that failed leads to bad things happening.
AND, EVERYTHING YOU WANT TO ACCOMPLISH CAN BE ACCOMPLISHED WITH A HELPFUL STRANGER WITH JUMPER CABLES.....
so how did you test the A23? you disconnected the 12V first?
surprising that such small batteries can provide sufficient current to pop open the frunk, with the A23 being less than half the size of a 9V, therefore less than half the current output.... it appears that standard alkaline 9V are about 500maH whereas A23's are 50-100maH. So quite a bit less current output from an A23.
(anybody know the current required to pop the frunk?)
I tested it by unlocking my car and popping open the frunk 3 times. If I ever have issues with the A23 not putting out enough current, I can use 2 in parallel because I put 2 behind the tow hook cover in a ziplock bag. They come 2 to a pack and 2 for perfectly behind the tow hook cover.
No - it gets power from emergency leads. I've tested it - others on here have, too.Could the leads in the tow hook cover just signal the hood actuator and it’s really getting the power from the cars 12v battery? I think it really needs to be tested with the 12v disconnected, to see if the a23 has enough energy to power the hood actuator, if your 12v was truly dead. Has anyone tested it with a dead/disconnected battery?
As far as a jumper battery. I picked up the Hulkman 85, came shipped with 75% SOC. Tested it on a g35x with a completely dead battery and it started right up. I‘d imagine it would do the job closing the contactors on a Tesla.
Yeah, I had this question also, as it is surprising to me that a tiny A23 battery (50-100maH) has enough juice to power whatever solenoid pops the frunk open. Already it is surprising that a 9V battery (500maH) has enough, but its somewhat more plausible. Does a zinc-carbon (non-alkaline) 9V have enough juice to work? They are typically rated at 400maH, a bit less than alkaline, though more than the A23. But of course the internal resistance/high current discharge characteristics are different...No - it gets power from emergency leads. I've tested it - others on here have, too.
No - it gets power from emergency leads. I've tested it - others on here have, too.
Tested it with 12v disconnected and contactors open?
The reason the A23 or 9V battery put out enough current to work is that the frunk latches are not normal electromagnetic solenoids that directly pull on the release cable. They are actuated by an electric motor that is geared down to pull a steel cable. I'm pretty sure there's a worm gear in there. But my point is that not a lot of torque (and therefore current) is needed because of the mechanical advantage of the gearing. If you pay attention from right by the frunk latch when you pop it open, you will hear motor noise for a fraction of a second before it unlatches.Yeah, I had this question also, as it is surprising to me that a tiny A23 battery (50-100maH) has enough juice to power whatever solenoid pops the frunk open. Already it is surprising that a 9V battery (500maH) has enough, but its somewhat more plausible. Does a zinc-carbon (non-alkaline) 9V have enough juice to work? They are typically rated at 400maH, a bit less than alkaline, though more than the A23. But of course the internal resistance/high current discharge characteristics are different...
Some one should just measure the current (power) needed.