The chart doesn't claim that peak power is reached at 28°C. Maximum Power overall needs 100% and 50°C+.
It merely indicates that expected BMS max power and actual battery max power is matched the last time at 28°C cell temp. As you point out it is around 1300A and somewhere around 55mph / 88kph at high SOC and dropping afterwards. With lower SOC the peak power is also at lower speeds and high speed power is highly altered by cell temp (and SOC).
From the same metadata of five cars (M3P 2021/2022 82kWh) over several years I could also produce a speed vs. power vs. soc vs. temp chart.
In case you haven't seen that one:
View attachment 1024413
View attachment 1024414
The 5D1 Plaid would mostly have pro arguments with maintaining high speed power being the most important one. The 5D1 is a modified 3D1 motor, which is the one from the 2018 M3P with good ol' wire windings. So not a modern motor and maybe not the most efficient choice.
The 4D1 is the latest generation of Tesla motors and it is a completely new design with hairpin stator. I seems to hold up power with speed similar to the older 3D6 motor, while not being as efficient, which is strange. In WLTP testing it performed up to 4% worse meaning it had up to 4% higher consumption / less range than the older 3D6 motor.
The main arguments pro 4D1 are not on the customer side, but for Tesla. Less to no rare earth in the motor and cheap to produce, were the 5D1 is an expensive premium motor in comparison with its carbon sleeved rotor.
In the past Tesla was always looking to have simple production with unified parts. This would point towards the 4D1 which is already used in every version of the Model Y. By just adjusting the inverter limits you get a performance motor that will look like a solid step up from the old motor/car and hopefully not only on paper.
Hard to tell now as the 4D1 is currently only paired with the old battery packs and therefore can't show its true limits.
At least here in Germany on unrestricted Autobahn I am not able to heat up the motors in any meaningful way. What I can do is stress the brakes to their limits easily and the main issue with battery overheating on the Nordschleife is the Regen Setting in Track Mode. Stronger brakes would mean you can reduce regen and then see the battery perform longer. Though, there are German Youtube Channels who do M3P track driving with completely stock cars and they manage to do one round on the Nordschleife without reaching the battery limit or only just before finishing the lap. So even the old cars are not that bad IMO.
you guys can keep conjecturing and I’ll keep watching
