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Model 3 Sound Project

Model 3 Sound Project


After months of effort, days of writing, and countless hours researching, I'm finally ready to share the Model 3 Sound Project.

From the project overview:

These posts are my way of documenting my journey, a journey I didn't make alone. I'd like to thank all of the members who have contributed to my knowledge. I especially want to thank Travis Llado for his impeccable 9-part series on the subject. These people have been my guides and saved me immense time. I hope these posts give back so that others can benefit from everything I learned along the way.

The project consists of these parts:

Project Overview

How the project came to be. Direct links to all the articles.


Ported vs Sealed. How to build a custom enclosure for the 3. How to make your box almost 50% lighter!


It is possible to have a large enclosure without totally giving up on storage. Here's an easy way to create some space while also making a form-fitting shelf for the Model 3.


Power is one of the most challenging things to get right in the Model 3, but I strive to get this down to a science. I show plans for a compact yet highly reliable trickle charging circuit as well as provide a photographic map of where everything connects in the car.

Tap and Layout

Did you realize that nobody seems to completely agree on how to tap the stock subwoofer? In this post I cover my tap as well as how (and why) I arranged the equipment the way I did.

Level Control

Without a dash, finding a good place to mount the level control can be a bit of a task. Several users have documented where they mounted their RLCs, but I never saw how anyone hid the connection box or routed the wire. I cover both in detail.


Did you know the Model 3 Performance edition can accelerate at 0.83 G's? Watch a video of what happens when an enclosure isn't anchored down, then a look at (non-damaging) ways to fix it.


Even if you don't read any other posts, this is the one to see. I'm sure you've seen people say things like "There's a ton of bass, probably too much" or "It's really boomy, I need to make some adjustments". When I first finished my install I was not happy. It didn't sound right at all, and no amount of messing with gain or low-pass filter could fix it.

I finally sat down and learned how to use a DSP. The good news is that subwoofers in the Model 3 can be tuned to sound amazing. I've done all the legwork and I provide you with the only file you need. This mod will run you about $100 bucks, but it's worth every penny and I have the science (and photos) to back it up.


Do you have a Model 3 without premium sound? Or do you have any other vehicle that you'd like to DSP like the article above? This final post shows how to calibrate any speakers for any vehicle using the same hardware and a $90 microphone.

I had fun with this project and I learned SO much. Thanks again to everyone who helped along the way, and if you have any questions at all please don't hesitate to ask!
Fun but true story.
I used to work at a high end stereo shop that also did car audio. This was in college so quite some time ago.
Several of the guys had expensive systems with thumping base that would shake the windows of other cars and scare small children.
Over the span of a couple of years these guys kept making their systems louder and louder.
They were doing that because without realizing it they were destroying their hearing.
Those guys, now all in their 40’s are partially deaf.
The end.
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Reactions: Kamban and nvx1977
Or the rear bumper falling off or the glass roof cracking. Personally I’d be worried, given the high amounts of people complaining about poor build quality, that stuff will start to rattle off your car.

If I was going for raw SPL, I might be worried about those things. But If that's all I cared about I also wouldn't have put the time, effort and passion into the project that I did. This was about quality sound for me. The volume levels in those videos are not how I usually listen to it. I might demo something like that once in a while, but most of the time I'm just enjoying rich, full, deep-reaching sound.
If you are really worried about that resistors getting hit enough to cause a fire you could put a thermal fuse there in line with the power to the ssr.

Wow, I had no idea such a thing existed. I just looked up a video on YouTube about how they work. Thank you for that information! For now, since I have it mounted to a massive heat sink, and since there is an audible clue when the SSR isn't working right, I don't think I'll go back and retrofit it. But if I ever have any issues at all, I will certainly think about getting one of these. Thank you @qdeathstar!
Nice work! How much was your total cost?

Hey @hydro 481

Keep in mind that by far the most expensive components of an installation like this are the amplifier and the speakers.

The amplifier I went with, the HD1200/1, was $1,250.00 USD on it's own.
The speakers I already had, but JL Audio 10w6v3's will run you about the same as the amp at $1,200.00 USD.
Everything else in the system combined was about $1,000.00 bucks.

So my total was about $3450.00, but you could still do most of that install for a lot less if you bought audio equipment on a budget.
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