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Only a poor choice if one does not want to spend more money. Maybe most of us don't care much. I have a Tesla plug but attached to a generic old Bosch wall unit. I suppose I see no reason to spend more money.

The is an honest question from someone who does not know electricity, but how does charging faster cost more money? Don't I pay by the kwh whether it takes 5 mins or 5 hours to fill the same spot?

Or are you talking about the cost of the charging equipment itself?
 
Why is getting a wall charger and quick charging a poor choice? Is there harm in charging faster at home?

You want to deliver the least charge sufficient to charge your battery. Typically a trickle charge can more evenly fill the cells than dumping a bunch of energy at once into the battery. Tesla actively manages the pack better than anyone. Their BMS is also vastly superior to anyone else. I trust that they can adequately protect the pack and individual cells while charging at WHATEVER rate you can but, from a pack chemistry perspective, the least charge for the most time is the best for the battery.

I typically charge only to 75% but I do charge to 100% for road trips and have been known to discharge my battery down to <5 miles because I know my car and its capabilities. I will then spend less time super charging as the taper is more favorable. When I reach home (or my destination) will likely sleep and therefore set it to 20A even with a full 40A available (my car is older and can charge faster). With a deep discharge, I really baby the battery and BMS to allow it to recalibrate the cells and itself.

I'll normally charge at 32A (I have a NEMA 6-50 plug because I had an old EVSE that has since died) even though I could charge at 40A because 32A is plenty fast and I've never, in 5 years (7 years of EV ownership) needed to charge faster.
 
You want to deliver the least charge sufficient to charge your battery. Typically a trickle charge can more evenly fill the cells than dumping a bunch of energy at once into the battery. Tesla actively manages the pack better than anyone. Their BMS is also vastly superior to anyone else. I trust that they can adequately protect the pack and individual cells while charging at WHATEVER rate you can but, from a pack chemistry perspective, the least charge for the most time is the best for the battery.

I typically charge only to 75% but I do charge to 100% for road trips and have been known to discharge my battery down to <5 miles because I know my car and its capabilities. I will then spend less time super charging as the taper is more favorable. When I reach home (or my destination) will likely sleep and therefore set it to 20A even with a full 40A available (my car is older and can charge faster). With a deep discharge, I really baby the battery and BMS to allow it to recalibrate the cells and itself.

I'll normally charge at 32A (I have a NEMA 6-50 plug because I had an old EVSE that has since died) even though I could charge at 40A because 32A is plenty fast and I've never, in 5 years (7 years of EV ownership) needed to charge faster.

Again, asking because I do not know, but is 11kwh (48A) really charging fast for the batteries? Relative to supercharges, it seems pretty tame.
 
I initially charged as fast as my NEMA 14-50 would allow me, but when the first winter came I turned it down to 20A or 25A and scheduled it to start later, so it would be done right around when I planned to leave, to ensure the battery was nice and warm when I left for work.

I've just kind of stuck with that, because it doesn't matter how fast your charge is done if you're still asleep, and as @croman said, it's (theoretically) better for pack chemistry. Of course, the BMS always has the final say in regards to that.
 
Again, asking because I do not know, but is 11kwh (48A) really charging fast for the batteries? Relative to supercharges, it seems pretty tame.
It is possible that traditional battery charging gurus still assume their new car batteries are the old cellphone batteries. :) whats good for the cellphone must be good for the car :)

that being said.... i also charge at 20amps :) despite my car and gen 1 wall charger being able to go up to 80amps!... so...
 
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This is the most negative forum I have ever seen.
Congrats on your first first internet forum. You do realize that all of the "polite" forums are simply overly policed by moderators. It gives a false sense of pleasantry, but it is also the most dishonest experience you can ever find.
 
You want to deliver the least charge sufficient to charge your battery. Typically a trickle charge can more evenly fill the cells than dumping a bunch of energy at once into the battery. Tesla actively manages the pack better than anyone. Their BMS is also vastly superior to anyone else. I trust that they can adequately protect the pack and individual cells while charging at WHATEVER rate you can but, from a pack chemistry perspective, the least charge for the most time is the best for the battery.

I typically charge only to 75% but I do charge to 100% for road trips and have been known to discharge my battery down to <5 miles because I know my car and its capabilities. I will then spend less time super charging as the taper is more favorable. When I reach home (or my destination) will likely sleep and therefore set it to 20A even with a full 40A available (my car is older and can charge faster). With a deep discharge, I really baby the battery and BMS to allow it to recalibrate the cells and itself.

I'll normally charge at 32A (I have a NEMA 6-50 plug because I had an old EVSE that has since died) even though I could charge at 40A because 32A is plenty fast and I've never, in 5 years (7 years of EV ownership) needed to charge faster.
Wish I could give this an "informative", "helpful" AND thumbs up!! Thanks for this!!
 
Long time lurker, first time poster. I ordered my MS LR in early May. I've seen a few videos on YouTube and it seems that the LR 21's are all shipping with the Michelin all-season tires. Being this is my first Tesla and live in MN, wondering if we've actually confirmed which tires are coming on the 19 inch rims?
Welcome.

My LR with 21's came with MICHELIN® Pilot® Sport 4 S. These are summer tires, you will need to either swap out the tires, I wouldn't, or buy a 2nd set of dedicated winters. The reason why to not use 21s is that the profile is very low and could easily cause wheel damage when driving in chunky/icy conditions.

I plan to buy a set of TS Sportline winters wheels/tires here soon.
 
The is an honest question from someone who does not know electricity, but how does charging faster cost more money? Don't I pay by the kwh whether it takes 5 mins or 5 hours to fill the same spot?

Or are you talking about the cost of the charging equipment itself?
It is only the cost fo the equipment and installation. Otherwise the advantage of higher amperage is quicker charging, with a maximum of 60 amps and 240V for AC charging. Depending on your location there are time of day cost factors that also might benefit from faster charge rates.

Practically, more is better so long as cost is not a factor.
 
Again, asking because I do not know, but is 11kwh (48A) really charging fast for the batteries? Relative to supercharges, it seems pretty tame.

lol - no, its not. This forum smoking some good new sweet Cali hash for the past couple of pages.

The home charger isn't going to hurt your battery, at all, zip. Also, it charges more efficiently, so you'll save $3 a month depending on how insane your local geographic region is with utility costs.

The home charger is great, I also charge with a NEMA 14-50 (a bit slower) and that's great. You don't want to supercharge every single day, but feel free to do so on your trips, you'll be fine. Literally some people supercharge as their only method and those batteries maybe lose ~5-7% after 50,000 miles. That's stressing the battery to the max. Home charging is going to do nothing, you're fine.

Charge to ~80% each day, and plug in each night. Continuously driving the car from 80% to ~20% does nothing to hurt your battery either.

No matter what you do, your battery will lose some range here and there - I'll put my money on that even if you drive 50-60k miles in the car, it won't be enough for you to ever notice.
 
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+ for those who have not experienced the stickiness of the PS4…don’t you dare swap it out ;)
Kidding, but they are my favorite street perf tires. If you want a street car with near track-performance tires but still livable characteristics for the street (noise, wear, wet, etc), these are it, none better. If you don’t push the car and grip isn’t important, then yes, slap something with high treadwear and super low noise levels on, you will enjoy. Michelin AS4 are a good compromise for those wanting all season performance but a bit better livability than the PS4’s. Otherwise, again, I bet the LR is badass with some fluffy quiet rubber on there :)
 
Again, asking because I do not know, but is 11kwh (48A) really charging fast for the batteries? Relative to supercharges, it seems pretty tame.

Relatively, sure. but remember DC goes direct as DC. AC has to be converted through your charger in your car. It is definitely more taxing for the car but not necessarily the battery. Then again, it is all relative. 90% of your charging will be at home. 11kwh isn't a ton so we're splitting hairs but definitely it is better for the pack to dump the least you need.

As @DukeofURL points out, I also time my charging sessions in winter to condition the battery. If it is set to 32A or higher, my battery usually finishes charging and then freezes before I drive again. Then my pack needs to heat itself up instead of using the thermal energy byproduct from charging to accomplish the pack conditioning. The nice thing about Teslas is that you have charging speed flexibility. Get your EVSE and wiring together where you can charge however fast at home makes you comfortable, but you'll soon see there is nothing to be gained from charging very quickly at home. In fact, you'll probably lose more in terms of time and enjoyment if you pace and charge only as fast as required. Your battery will be conditioned (big safety benefit in winter due to loss of regen braking and overall sluggishness (cold battery is both top end limited and regen limited)).

Either way, Tesla has you covered.
 
Only a poor choice if one does not want to spend more money. Maybe most of us don't care much. I have a Tesla plug but attached to a generic old Bosch wall unit. I suppose I see no reason to spend more money.
I installed this wall charger in early 2020 before the batteries were installed purely for eventually maybe getting a 2nd Tesla. I don't park in this spot, a Corolla does. Didn't want to try and open up the wall after the batteries were installed so it was essentially a wall decoration until the Plaid arrives. Then I have to hope I can convince the Corolla to switch to the S75. Then hope they finally release wireless load balancing soon or I'll have to play musical chargers or just set one to 24A and other to 16A to not exceed 40A combined until they do (on 50A circuits). So ya...didn't so much care about the cost.

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lol - no, its not. This forum smoking some good new sweet Cali hash for the past couple of pages.

The home charger isn't going to hurt your battery, at all, zip. Also, it charges more efficiently, so you'll save $3 a month depending on how insane your local geographic region is with utility costs.

The home charger is great, I also charge with a NEMA 14-50 (a bit slower) and that's great. You don't want to supercharge every single day, but feel free to do so on your trips, you'll be fine. Literally some people supercharge as their only method and those batteries maybe lose ~5% after 50,000 miles. Home charging is going to do nothing, you're fine.

Charge to ~80% each day, and plug in each night. Continuously driving the car from 80% to ~20% does nothing to hurt your battery either.
FWIW:
One model s I had I plugged in to NEMA every night and woke up to a full charge.
Another I only used super chargers and wall outlet at home. Didn’t drive it a ton around town, used a lot for road trips.

Neither experienced any battery issue. The first car degraded maybe 8 miles or something after 3yrs. 2nd car maybe 4 miles after 2yrs. about the same mileage.

so the point, per this poster’s comments - any way you slice this you’ll be fine. Not worth a thought unless you’re into tracking this stuff for fun
 
+ for those who have not experienced the stickiness of the PS4…don’t you dare swap it out ;)
Kidding, but they are my favorite street perf tires. If you want a street car with near track-performance tires but still livable characteristics for the street (noise, wear, wet, etc), these are it, none better. If you don’t push the car and grip isn’t important, then yes, slap something with high treadwear and super low noise levels on, you will enjoy. Michelin AS4 are a good compromise for those wanting all season performance but a bit better livability than the PS4’s. Otherwise, again, I bet the LR is badass with some fluffy quiet rubber on there :)
It depends on location. If I lived in TX, FL, CA, then I would never switch from the PS4s. However, the PS4s could be sketchy in the cold NE winters.