Model S - HPWC (High Power Wall Connector)

[Fiver]

Just a final update to show my solution to prevent the cord from pulling out of the HPWC. PVC pipe cut in half over the cord, held on with hose clamps. Puts the strain point lower down. The cord is pushed up so the bend between the PVC and the bottom of the HPWC is actually slightly loose. I haven’t trimmed off the excess hose clamp yet but hopefully this gives you an idea of a way to keep your cords in working order.
One pedestal has two chargers (one on each side) and the other is a single.

 

[miimura]

Also the setup I was working on was a little odd as usually there is one 100amp (or whatever) breaker that feeds a Jct box that in turn feeds the 3 (in my case) chargers. That way the max load is only 80 amps, and the comm cable keeps all the chargers in line and prevents them from puling more then 80 amps total as a group.

The setup where I just was working had all three fed by their own 100amp breakers, each wired independently. So if the communication cable is disconnected, and the dip switch settings changed, they could pull 80amps each, which on a 125amp (total) sub-panel could be bad. Thankfully they are set so one is master and if the cable becomes disconnected or whatever the slaves will just stop working. When the dip switch's are set to slave, they won't work unless they get communication from the "master" unit.

The individual breakers for each Wall Connector is actually the preferred setup for load sharing. It allows you to cut the power to them individually if needed for service. The risk you cited if the switch settings were changed would be the same as the hard junction setup.

 

[Skione65]

View attachment 324508 @FlasherZ,

Have read your threads for years! Just configured a P3D+, still awaiting VIN. Getting ready to install the Tesla Wall Charger and want to “future proof” it. Possibly a second 3 in the future or an S, who knows. So I’m putting the Tesla HPWC in my garage (2 bay) and understand there’s a code requirement for a lockable disconnect due to my Main Panel (200A Service) being in the basement and not “line of sight”. Correct?
I’m going to run #2 AWG from 1” EMT from the Main Panel in the basement to the garage and across 2 bays to the Tesla Wall Charger, and am trying to decide if I should use the GE 100A “Fused” disconnect or “non-Fused” disconnect.
At first I got the fused disconnect but then read the attached forum post which explained the electricians reason for going non-fused. I’m of the feeling that a fused disconnect provides another layer of protection for the Wall Charger in addition to the Main Breaker Panel. But then you have to deal with the 2 fuses in the disconnect panel. He says the cb’s in the panel are enough.
In argument to his thread if I have backup fuses it’s not an issue, but definitely would be simpler non-fused.
Someone else mentioned it’s nit even required if I put a lockable cb on the main panel downstairs but I don’t believe that’s true because it’s not “line of sight” and “readily accessable”.
What are your opinions? Specifically on which is better “fused”or “non-fused” disconnect? And also if a disconnect is even required?

Thanks for any opinions and/or advice.



Ski

 

[MorrisonHiker]

We had three wall connectors installed by Tesla in our garage two weeks ago. We have a subpanel in our garage. Originally they were going to just upgrade the subpanel but ended up adding a sub-subpanel with breakers for each individual wall connector. There's no cover and the sub-subpanel is located in line-of-sight from the three wall connectors.

So, you might be able to just install a subpanel instead of a disconnect or switches at each wall connector (if you ever add more).

(BTW, we will be painting everything eventually. We are just waiting for the final inspection.)

 

[boaterva]

View attachment 324508 @FlasherZ,

Have read your threads for years! Just configured a P3D+, still awaiting VIN. Getting ready to install the Tesla Wall Charger and want to “future proof” it. Possibly a second 3 in the future or an S, who knows. So I’m putting the Tesla HPWC in my garage (2 bay) and understand there’s a code requirement for a lockable disconnect due to my Main Panel (200A Service) being in the basement and not “line of sight”. Correct?
I’m going to run #2 AWG from 1” EMT from the Main Panel in the basement to the garage and across 2 bays to the Tesla Wall Charger, and am trying to decide if I should use the GE 100A “Fused” disconnect or “non-Fused” disconnect.
At first I got the fused disconnect but then read the attached forum post which explained the electricians reason for going non-fused. I’m of the feeling that a fused disconnect provides another layer of protection for the Wall Charger in addition to the Main Breaker Panel. But then you have to deal with the 2 fuses in the disconnect panel. He says the cb’s in the panel are enough.
In argument to his thread if I have backup fuses it’s not an issue, but definitely would be simpler non-fused.
Someone else mentioned it’s nit even required if I put a lockable cb on the main panel downstairs but I don’t believe that’s true because it’s not “line of sight” and “readily accessable”.
What are your opinions? Specifically on which is better “fused”or “non-fused” disconnect? And also if a disconnect is even required?

Thanks for any opinions and/or advice.



Ski

See my sig for my setup... I've never heard of line of sight for this... that's a Hot Tub thing, I think, so you can't be in the water when disconnecting?

In any case, you can see the locking adapter my guys used and the subpanel (for the 14-50) served as the disconnect.

I think you can get too hung up on extra fusing unless you are in a high-lightning probability area. Sometimes a lot of these blackmagic additions are people trying to make their next boat payment.

 

[Skione65]

We had three wall connectors installed by Tesla in our garage two weeks ago. We have a subpanel in our garage. Originally they were going to just upgrade the subpanel but ended up adding a sub-subpanel with breakers for each individual wall connector. There's no cover and the sub-subpanel is located in line-of-sight from the three wall connectors.
View attachment 324514

So, you might be able to just install a subpanel instead of a disconnect or switches at each wall connector (if you ever add more).

(BTW, we will be painting everything eventually. We are just waiting for the final inspection.)

@MorrisonHiker,

This appeals to me much more than those Ugly Disconnects. I may entertain this with a sub panel then run from that to the Wall Connector.

Ski

 

[Skione65]

See my sig for my setup... I've never heard of line of sight for this... that's a Hot Tub thing, I think, so you can't be in the water when disconnecting?

In any case, you can see the locking adapter my guys used and the subpanel (for the 14-50) served as the disconnect.

I think you can get too hung up on extra fusing unless you are in a high-lightning probability area. Sometimes a lot of these blackmagic additions are people trying to make their next boat payment.

@boaterva,

I hear ya! Agreed. However we ARE in a lightning/storm prone area....I even have (forgot the count) I believe half a dozen lightning rods on my house grounded out properly for the Strikes.

Ski

 

[boaterva]

@boaterva,

I hear ya! Agreed. However we ARE in a lightning/storm prone area....I even have (forgot the count) I believe half a dozen lightning rods on my house grounded out properly for the Strikes.

Ski

Well, then, you don't need anything else!

Lol, Tesla has said the car and equipment is supposed to be self-protected, but I don't know how far that would go in event of lightning damage. I don't think any 'normal' fusing would open quick enough to stop lightning level current/voltage. But do what makes you happy!

 

[AWDtsla]

Well, then, you don't need anything else!

Lol, Tesla has said the car and equipment is supposed to be self-protected, but I don't know how far that would go in event of lightning damage. I don't think any 'normal' fusing would open quick enough to stop lightning level current/voltage. But do what makes you happy!

There is nothing that opens quick enough to stop 300,000 volts from a direct strike. Lightning rod is the only way. I would doubt it can open fast enough for indirect strikes either, you'd need sacrificial PTC's

 

[MP3Mike]

See my sig for my setup... I've never heard of line of sight for this... that's a Hot Tub thing, I think, so you can't be in the water when disconnecting?

In any case, you can see the locking adapter my guys used and the subpanel (for the 14-50) served as the disconnect.

In most jurisdictions a device capable of >= 60A has to have a disconnect in the line of sight from the device. (If something goes wrong you need to be able to see, and get to, the disconnect quickly.)

 

[Rocky_H]

In most jurisdictions a device capable of >= 60A has to have a disconnect in the line of sight from the device. (If something goes wrong you need to be able to see, and get to, the disconnect quickly.)

It has been in NEC for a really long time, so I would think it's "all jurisdictions". The requirement is for greater than 60A, by the way, not greater than or equal to.

 

[boaterva]

In most jurisdictions a device capable of >= 60A has to have a disconnect in the line of sight from the device. (If something goes wrong you need to be able to see, and get to, the disconnect quickly.)

Gotcha. I suppose it just means not somewhere between the device and the breaker box where you have to hunt for it. More useful when the device isn’t in the same room (garage) as the breaker box!

 

[eprosenx]

In most jurisdictions a device capable of >= 60A has to have a disconnect in the line of sight from the device. (If something goes wrong you need to be able to see, and get to, the disconnect quickly.)

So the code reference I am aware of is in the Electric Vehicle charging article. 625.43 Here is what it says:

So yeah, only applies to 120/240v residential electrical service if your branch circuit is *over* 60a.

Now, with that being said, I am not so sure you need to have it within line of sight... Here is one take on "Readily Accessible":

Readily Accessible | Electrical Contractor Magazine

I am curious how different AHJ's interpret this?

My reading is that in many (most?) cases you could just install a metal device on your breaker to allow it to be locked in the off position if the circuit is over 60a. (even if your breaker is a ways away)

From a personal standpoint, I really don't think that EVSE's are going to need frequent service. There is nothing really that needs servicing once installed... About the only thing that would commonly go bad would be the contactor. So I think local disconnects make a ton of sense for outside HVAC units and such (to keep maintenance tech's from working on them hot due to it being difficult to shut it off or inaccessible), but it seems overkill for EVSE's... Just shut it off at the breaker!

I think I am going to contact my local AHJ to ask their take, but I am also curious what others have experienced?

 

[eprosenx]

So the code reference I am aware of is in the Electric Vehicle charging article. 625.43 Here is what it says:
View attachment 325583
So yeah, only applies to 120/240v residential electrical service if your branch circuit is *over* 60a.

Now, with that being said, I am not so sure you need to have it within line of sight... Here is one take on "Readily Accessible":

Readily Accessible | Electrical Contractor Magazine

I am curious how different AHJ's interpret this?

My reading is that in many (most?) cases you could just install a metal device on your breaker to allow it to be locked in the off position if the circuit is over 60a. (even if your breaker is a ways away)

From a personal standpoint, I really don't think that EVSE's are going to need frequent service. There is nothing really that needs servicing once installed... About the only thing that would commonly go bad would be the contactor. So I think local disconnects make a ton of sense for outside HVAC units and such (to keep maintenance tech's from working on them hot due to it being difficult to shut it off or inaccessible), but it seems overkill for EVSE's... Just shut it off at the breaker!

I think I am going to contact my local AHJ to ask their take, but I am also curious what others have experienced?

Actually, here is the full definition of Readily Accessible in Article 100:

I don't see anything saying it has to be within line of sight... But it could be open to wide interpretation. I am curious what various AHJ's think.

 

[mknox]

Now, with that being said, I am not so sure you need to have it within line of sight..

The Ontario (Canada) Electrical Code has the same provision. Inspectors here seem to interpret it as being "within reach" as opposed to "within sight" despite the code language. I installed 2 EVSE at my former workplace parking lot and had metering and disconnect devices on the building wall, within sight, but about 200' away. They made us put disconnect switches on the back of the pedestals that the chargers were mounted on.

 

[boaterva]

Well, it has to be jurisdiction-dependent, then. My subpanel (with the lock and breakers for cutoff) is a few feet from one HPWC, but across the garage from the other. So, interpret that as you will!

 

[mknox]

Well, it has to be jurisdiction-dependent, then. My subpanel (with the lock and breakers for cutoff) is a few feet from one HPWC, but across the garage from the other. So, interpret that as you will!

It is definitely dependent on the inspector (at least here in Ontario, Canada). What you describe should, in my mind, be perfectly acceptable.

 

[cityberty]

Has anyone out there had their cable from the HPWC start peeling away at the bottom with the glue starting to show? Its about 3 months old. Not sure how this happened. Ok for now charges just fine but concerned about long term.

Thanks in advance

 

[rhumbliner]

Well, it has to be jurisdiction-dependent, then.

+1

My local inspector was not aware of an EV section in the code — I had to point it out to him. When I installed my WC with a 100-amp breaker he said it either had to be lockable or accessible and line-of-sight.

 

[boaterva]

+1

My local inspector was not aware of an EV section in the code — I had to point it out to him. When I installed my WC with a 100-amp breaker he said it either had to be lockable or accessible and line-of-sight.

That actually makes sense. If you can’t see it (and have control over it) you want it to be lockable. Logic, who woulda thunk it.