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Model S Technical / Mechanical Issues

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They have the upper hand. They've already proven it to me more than once. If you do happen to have them refuse a claim, your only recourse is to sue them.

So what are YOU going to do if they decide to blame your aftermarket accessories on something? I had to capitulate or do without AP (or sue them).

Fair enough. The only anomaly in my car is the dash cam that I wired in (with in-line fuse) to the dongle under the microphone grille. Tesla knows it's there because they unplug the camera every time I'm in for service. They haven't said anything to be about it (yet)!
 
Interesting about the aftermarket equipment. Here in Hong Kong I had my windshield replaced and they even reattached my blackvue camera with new tape in the process. They have no problem with cameras and they are not mentioned in the service receipt.
 
Super easy fix. I have had this happen 4 times and the Tesla #800 support gave me the instructions. While seated in the car foot on the brake - go to control settings and press the e-brake button then the "power off" button. Remove your foot from the brake. Wait about 90 seconds and press the brake and the car will restart and you should be good to go.

Agreed. This worked for me also and was recommended by Tesla.
 
We got an email from service to bring our car in for a switch and power supply update that could take a couple of days... Does anyone know what this is about or heard of this before?
If the BMS (Battery Management System) detects high contactor resistance it's likely a sign of impending contactor failure. The car will then send an alert to service and if they get too many of them, I think they schedule a preventative contactor replacement.

The contactors are located in the battery pack and are effectively large high-voltage relays. There are 2 large main ones, one for positive and one for negative and there is also a smaller precharge relay that acts to prevent arcing in the main contactors by allowing them to switch "softly". These 2 contactors act as remote controlled switches that enable the ~400 volt high-voltage power to leave the battery and power things such as the Drive Unit and Climate control system, as well as recharge the 12V battery when it's low.

When you get in your car, you can hear the contactors closing as a "clunk clack" noise under the car in the back, and when the car goes to sleep you hear them open dull "thunk" sound. When the car is off in this state, there is a small 12V Lead-Acid (AGM) battery that powers the so-called "house" or "hotel" loads, such as the Touchscreen, Gateway, Security controller, etc. It also keeps the cellular modem powered so the car can be contacted by Tesla's servers. Because of this, the Gateway keeps an eye on the 12V charge level and when it gets low, it will ask the BMS to close the contactors to enter 12V support mode and recharge it using energy from the main pack. Once it's charged the contactors will again open and the car will go back to sleep. This happens several times each day and night. Since this cycles the 12V battery each time, and it's very small compared to most car batteries, it has a relatively short life. Tesla's 12V battery choice in the early cars was not as good as the red C&D ones they now use, so those rarely even made it to a year old before failure.
 
If the BMS (Battery Management System) detects high contactor resistance it's likely a sign of impending contactor failure. The car will then send an alert to service and if they get too many of them, I think they schedule a preventative contactor replacement.

The contactors are located in the battery pack and are effectively large high-voltage relays. There are 2 large main ones, one for positive and one for negative and there is also a smaller precharge relay that acts to prevent arcing in the main contactors by allowing them to switch "softly". These 2 contactors act as remote controlled switches that enable the ~400 volt high-voltage power to leave the battery and power things such as the Drive Unit and Climate control system, as well as recharge the 12V battery when it's low.

When you get in your car, you can hear the contactors closing as a "clunk clack" noise under the car in the back, and when the car goes to sleep you hear them open dull "thunk" sound. When the car is off in this state, there is a small 12V Lead-Acid (AGM) battery that powers the so-called "house" or "hotel" loads, such as the Touchscreen, Gateway, Security controller, etc. It also keeps the cellular modem powered so the car can be contacted by Tesla's servers. Because of this, the Gateway keeps an eye on the 12V charge level and when it gets low, it will ask the BMS to close the contactors to enter 12V support mode and recharge it using energy from the main pack. Once it's charged the contactors will again open and the car will go back to sleep. This happens several times each day and night. Since this cycles the 12V battery each time, and it's very small compared to most car batteries, it has a relatively short life. Tesla's 12V battery choice in the early cars was not as good as the red C&D ones they now use, so those rarely even made it to a year old before failure.

The red C & D ones you are referring to is that the 12v battery? I know we have a D pack for our main pack.

Thank you very much for the detailed response. It is really helpful.
 
Yes C&D is the manufacturer of the 12v battery. This has nothing to do with the main pack.

Speaking of 12V battery, I am an Amateur Radio Operator and would like to put a small UHF/VHF transceiver in my MS. I need to find access to 12V (switched or unstitched) in the Frunk or the Trunk area that would support about 1 amp most of the time and about 6-7 amps for brief moments when transmitting. Do you have any experience with adding 12V accessories on a MS?
 
Speaking of 12V battery, I am an Amateur Radio Operator and would like to put a small UHF/VHF transceiver in my MS. I need to find access to 12V (switched or unstitched) in the Frunk or the Trunk area that would support about 1 amp most of the time and about 6-7 amps for brief moments when transmitting. Do you have any experience with adding 12V accessories on a MS?
In the frunk, the passenger side fusebox under the cowling cover is a good place. The only thing in the rear would probably be the feed for the hatch lift motor. Even f you don't have that option, the wiring is still present. It's unlikely you'll be transmitting while the hatch is opening/closing, so that will save a lot of wiring.
 
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@Ingineer - How can I read raw 12 V voltage (what the gateway sees when determining when the close the contactors and boot up the DCDC)? Is this on the powertrain or body can bus?
It's likely available on CAN, but I haven't bothered to map it yet. It's available by JSON query to 192.168.90.100:4035 on the Ethernet network as "12VBatteryVoltage". Current is also available as "12VBatteryCurrent".
 
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Not sure if this has been observed, reported on a previous page. I'm seeing some rust on the rear hatch door strut. Strange, that this area is generally kept dry. The photo below is of the passenger side strut. The driver's side strut is showing only a tiny rust mark.
Anyone else had this issue?
IMG_5536.jpg
 
Not sure if this has been observed, reported on a previous page. I'm seeing some rust on the rear hatch door strut. Strange, that this area is generally kept dry. The photo below is of the passenger side strut. The driver's side strut is showing only a tiny rust mark.
Anyone else had this issue?View attachment 174903

I've got exactly that, replaced under waranty. They actually replaced the whole strut including the part that goes on the hatch door.

trunk_strut_replace.png


2015-09-02 Power-liftgate c-clip.JPG
 
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Not sure if this has been observed, reported on a previous page. I'm seeing some rust on the rear hatch door strut. Strange, that this area is generally kept dry. The photo below is of the passenger side strut. The driver's side strut is showing only a tiny rust mark.
Anyone else had this issue?View attachment 174903

Timely. Yesterday I was scratching at the rust on mine to see how bad it was. I am also still getting water dripping out of the bumper pads of the hatch when I open it after a rain.

Mine is going in a couple weeks for motor hum. I am at 120,000 km and have had my drive unit replaced once already. Wipers are also making a ticking noise.