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Model S Technical / Mechanical Issues

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Yeah my DS said you have to answer and dial with the car otherwise it goes to the phone... Odd behavior compared to what I'm used to but *shrug*

As for removing the phone.. I can never get to that menu! The image I posted is what I see if I tap the bt icon or if I go to the phone app and tap connect phone. I've reset the center screen and I've restarted my phone. I guess next ill try turning bt off and then approaching the car

Did you remove the Model S from your phone as well?
 
Did you remove the Model S from your phone as well?

Not sure that was the issue since I turned bt completely off, so the model s shouldn't have been trying to connect to anything. What ended up working for me... And I hope this doesn't cause a firestorm... Was the diagnostics menu that was mentioned elsewhere here. Once inside there's an "exit and restart" button.

Hitting that seemed to do a softer reset than holding in both scroll wheels, but once the screen was back on, I hit the Bluetooth icon and I was presented with my phone and the add new phone button. Turned bt back on on my phone and it connected instantly.
 
Yesterday evening I had 3 incidents where I put my foot on the brake to stop and the car 'dinged' a couple times and completely turned off.
I lost all power assist to the brakes and steering.
I would escalate this with Tesla. As you said, it seems like very unsafe behavior.

I wear New Balance 990-series sneakers, and I have wide feet. I did manage to brush both pedals at the same time briefly and got a dinging noise for a moment, but I haven't done it since then. I can't see any reason why the car shouldn't (as you said) just ignore the accelerator in this situation, while dinging away but still providing brake boost and so forth.

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Took the kids on a drive today and as I was coming up to town, where speed limit is 35, I did what I usually do, hold "down" on the cruise control to "regen coast". Suddenly the car lurched as full regen kicked in, the car did the three-beep alert, and "cruise control disabled" appeared with a message to "restart car" to re-enable.
That's a weird one!

I haven't had that happen, but I have noticed that I really dislike how the car behaves when you take it off cruise. Let's say that I'm approaching my off ramp on my commute home. On my RAV4, I disable cruise, and the car coasts and begins to decelerate. I apply brake or accelerator as needed to make my exit.

On the Model S, if I disable cruise as I approach the ramp, the car decelerates very hard as the regen kicks in immediately. I'm training myself to "pre-load" the accelerator pedal before disabling cruise, but I think the behavior is weird.
 
I haven't had that happen, but I have noticed that I really dislike how the car behaves when you take it off cruise. Let's say that I'm approaching my off ramp on my commute home. On my RAV4, I disable cruise, and the car coasts and begins to decelerate. I apply brake or accelerator as needed to make my exit.

On the Model S, if I disable cruise as I approach the ramp, the car decelerates very hard as the regen kicks in immediately. I'm training myself to "pre-load" the accelerator pedal before disabling cruise, but I think the behavior is weird.

It is definitely much different from ICE cars. But I'm not sure how I would solve it. The behavior is an inevitability, based upon how the car operates. I do find that the time it takes me to try to find the right accelerator spot (to avoid the aggressive regen) can become dangerous as I'm approaching the car in front of me. That's why ACC would really have been helpful...
 
It is definitely much different from ICE cars. But I'm not sure how I would solve it. The behavior is an inevitability, based upon how the car operates. I do find that the time it takes me to try to find the right accelerator spot (to avoid the aggressive regen) can become dangerous as I'm approaching the car in front of me. That's why ACC would really have been helpful...

I think regen could ramp up much more slowly when it's triggered by taking the car off of cruise.

I also think that, once regen has triggered the brake lights, they should remain on as long as the car continues to decelerate. Here's the scenario: You're coming to a traffic light. You ease up on the accelerator, which slows the car. Let's say for simplicity's sake that your foot is entirely off of the accelerator. During the initial deceleration, the accelerometer senses enough change in velocity to illuminate the brake lights. As the car slows further, the deceleration falls below that threshold, and the brake lights go out, even though you're still slowing. Eventually, you put your foot on the brake again, to hold the car still at the light. So, people behind you see your brake lights come on, go off, then come on again. Wouldn't it be less confusing to the people behind you if the lights simply came on and stayed on?
 
I haven't had that happen, but I have noticed that I really dislike how the car behaves when you take it off cruise. Let's say that I'm approaching my off ramp on my commute home. On my RAV4, I disable cruise, and the car coasts and begins to decelerate. I apply brake or accelerator as needed to make my exit.

On the Model S, if I disable cruise as I approach the ramp, the car decelerates very hard as the regen kicks in immediately. I'm training myself to "pre-load" the accelerator pedal before disabling cruise, but I think the behavior is weird.
Robert Boston started a thread on this but at the end of the day it's just doing what you're telling it to do. If you disable CC and have your foot off the accelerator then regen will kick in. This is no different than an ICE. With an auto xmission ICE it will "coast" as there is very little engine braking but in my manual Corvette when you cancelled CC it would start slowing down quickly. I learned to preload the accelerator on that car so w/ the Roadster and Model S it's no different. I do not want the car to "coast" when I disable CC - I want it to kick in regen immediately. If I want to coast I'll step on the accelerator.

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I also think that, once regen has triggered the brake lights, they should remain on as long as the car continues to decelerate. Here's the scenario: You're coming to a traffic light. You ease up on the accelerator, which slows the car. Let's say for simplicity's sake that your foot is entirely off of the accelerator. During the initial deceleration, the accelerometer senses enough change in velocity to illuminate the brake lights. As the car slows further, the deceleration falls below that threshold, and the brake lights go out, even though you're still slowing. Eventually, you put your foot on the brake again, to hold the car still at the light. So, people behind you see your brake lights come on, go off, then come on again. Wouldn't it be less confusing to the people behind you if the lights simply came on and stayed on?
I'm pretty sure it works the way you describe already. Have you driven w/ the backup camera on and verified that the lights go out?
 
With an auto xmission ICE it will "coast" as there is very little engine braking but in my manual Corvette when you cancelled CC it would start slowing down quickly.

I didn't have a cruise control in my M3, which was my last manual transmission, but I think if you're in a highway-appropriate gear, it wouldn't slow down as radically as the Model S does. I could be wrong.

(re: tail lights) said:
I'm pretty sure it works the way you describe already. Have you driven w/ the backup camera on and verified that the lights go out?

Yup. The brake lights do go out as the car's deceleration falls below a threshold, even though the car is still decelerating.
 
I can only suggest that you give it a try. The deceleration falls off as the car slows. I think it's probably at least partially a property of how regen works -- my experience in other EVs has been that the regen torque available seems to be less at lower speed. Or, maybe Tesla just wants to keep the car from jerking to a stop.
 
I can only suggest that you give it a try. The deceleration falls off as the car slows. I think it's probably at least partially a property of how regen works -- my experience in other EVs has been that the regen torque available seems to be less at lower speed. Or, maybe Tesla just wants to keep the car from jerking to a stop.

So below which speed does regen stop triggering the brake lights? I'd guess it is some specific speed (on a level road).
 
So below which speed does regen stop triggering the brake lights? I'd guess it is some specific speed (on a level road).

It's based on deceleration rate, not speed.

Except for a few moments while I'm doing something with my feet on a long trip, I haven't used cruise in years since it really kills mpg in the Prius (and presumably range in the Model S).

The way to make cruise behave more like an ICE is to set regen to minimum when you're going to use cruise. Then in won't aggressively regen when coming out of cruise.
 
It's based on deceleration rate, not speed.

Except for a few moments while I'm doing something with my feet on a long trip, I haven't used cruise in years since it really kills mpg in the Prius (and presumably range in the Model S).

The way to make cruise behave more like an ICE is to set regen to minimum when you're going to use cruise. Then in won't aggressively regen when coming out of cruise.
I'd also like the ability to set a wider tolerance. Instead of "set to 60mph", I'd prefer to be able to "set to 57-63mph" allowing the vehicle not to have to react until outside of the [57,63] mph range. Bonus points for being more clever along the lines of gradually increasing when it approaches 57, rather than flooring it at 56.
 
Why would the deceleration decrease if you have your foot off the pedal? It should continue to apply full regen, so does it depend on the speed whether full regen triggers the brake lights?

As you get to slower speeds the regen backs off. I believe that it becomes harder to pull power out of the motor at lower speeds. Also at some point it needs to feather off or you'd jerk to a stop.

Anyway the Roadster does this and I've been driving one for a couple of years and no one has complained yet! You are going pretty slowly by the time the brake lights turn off, essentially at that point you're coasting to a stop. If you were braking briskly your foot would already be on the pedal; if not you probably started regen braking too early. If you care you could lightly hold the brake pedal, but in my experience there's no reason to do so.
 
This happened to me too, and I realized I was touching the accelerator at the same time with my right foot (I'm a one-foot driver in an automatic), and I got the error several times in the first few hundred miles. But if the car shut off, that's something more serious.



These are the jacking / jackstand locations. I suspect your car was put on a lift or jackstands before delivery, either for inspection or to work on the wheels -- may be related to your scratches in your wheels.

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Took the kids on a drive today and as I was coming up to town, where speed limit is 35, I did what I usually do, hold "down" on the cruise control to "regen coast". Suddenly the car lurched as full regen kicked in, the car did the three-beep alert, and "cruise control disabled" appeared with a message to "restart car" to re-enable.

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I also had the case happen where I bumped the cruise lever by accident and the car momentarily shut off and I think it popped up the cruise control disabled message.
Very unnerving.
 
I've experienced one instance of the 'cruise control disabled' error,too: in my case it occurred when I attempted to engage the cruise control at highway speeds.

As for the problem of pressing both the brake and accelerator pedals simultaneously, it's been a repeated source of frustration. The pedals are too close together, or maybe the accelerator pedal should be located a little further forward, or both. My natural tendency is to plant my foot on the brake at a slight angle (because my knee/shin is against the center console), which tends to catch the accelerator, too. When I'm working the accelerator I also have to make sure my right foot is nearly touching the center console housing so I don't catch the edge of my shoe on the brake pedal when I lift off the pedal.

I have not had the car do more than squawk at me, though: it's never turned itself off and disabled the power boost. That's serious!
 
It's based on deceleration rate, not speed.

Technically speaking, it's based on forward G-force; not deceleration rate. And the regen starts to transition to coast when you get below 8mph, turning into complete coast at 5mph and below. I think it's really smooth and love the feel of that transition. I also think that the brake lights go, I think it works appropriately. When the forward G-force lowers, the brake lights go out. Warnings to people behind you aren't necessary at that point. I usually time it such that I don't need to use the brake at all, unless I'm on an incline or decline (I do not enable creep).
 
The more I read this thread the more nervous I am about the safety of the car and even more nervous about letting anyone drive it lest one of these core issues (such as the car shutting off) pop up mid-drive and someone already unsure on EVs panics a little bit :(. I know we're hearing only from people that have had issues, but we're also only small sampling of the overall ownership so this stuff must be happening to non-TMC members as well.