how did you get the front screen tinted? Its illegal in California - would love to do it as well, but the shops won't do it because of the legal implications.
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how did you get the front screen tinted? Its illegal in California - would love to do it as well, but the shops won't do it because of the legal implications.
Didn't have any issues getting my windshield tinted. Have you actually had tint shops tell you they won't or just assuming they won't? Lots of other people on the forums here in CA have done it.
Yeah, I think its probably illegal to tint the windshield in most states, it is here in Washington.
However the shop I was talking to is willing to do it with a light (75) tint which they say is just for heat rejection. I'm assuming that for "show cars" that aren't always road-legal and are trailer towed to shows, its obviously legal to tint those windshields. And the shops probably get away with it by claiming ignorance as to the customers' intent on what we will do with our cars.
However the shop I was talking to is willing to do it with a light (75) tint which they say is just for heat rejection. I'm assuming that for "show cars" that aren't always road-legal and are trailer towed to shows, its obviously legal to tint those windshields. And the shops probably get away with it by claiming ignorance as to the customers' intent on what we will do with our cars.
Did you speak with Premiere Mobile? They are in Fremont and from what I've seen personally at their shop, they do quite a few Teslas. Every single time I'm there, there's at least 3 in their shop. I got the windshield done too. Don't care about legality, I care about comfort.
billarnett
Member
The Model S specs says that the windshield is UV and IR blocking and that the rear window is "solar absorbing". Given that what's the advantage of tinting the front and rear glass?
Anyone with photosync 65 or 55 on the WINDSHIELD? Seeking advice
I want it to be a bit more darker on the windshield than photosync 75. I'm not worried about the legality. In central cali, ton of people have tinted windshields, but I still dont want it to look too dark. I've seen a ton of pics with 65 and 55 on the side windows, but thats at a straight angle and it really makes an difference. You can see that people who put 35 on the rear hatch it looks much darker than the 35 on the passenger window, for that reason. So has anyone done 65 or 55 on the front windshield and tell me their thoughts. Any Pics would be awesomely appreciated... many thanks...
Im talking about photosync specifically so no tinting arguments please
I want it to be a bit more darker on the windshield than photosync 75. I'm not worried about the legality. In central cali, ton of people have tinted windshields, but I still dont want it to look too dark. I've seen a ton of pics with 65 and 55 on the side windows, but thats at a straight angle and it really makes an difference. You can see that people who put 35 on the rear hatch it looks much darker than the 35 on the passenger window, for that reason. So has anyone done 65 or 55 on the front windshield and tell me their thoughts. Any Pics would be awesomely appreciated... many thanks...
Im talking about photosync specifically so no tinting arguments please
sickfox
Member
Premier Mobile
Former Vendor
We have been in the window tint and paint protection film industry since 1997, so hopefully our experience can assist Tesla owners here with their window film choices:
First and foremost, to understand window film, we need to better understand solar radiation
The Solar Spectrum consists of UV, Visible Light, and IR. Below is a breakdown of the 3:
*UV (Ultraviolet)- 300-380nm, which accounts for approximately 3%
*VIS (Visible Light) - 380-780nm, which accounts for approximately 47%
*NIR - (Near Infrared) - 780-2500nm, which accounts for approximately 52%-53%
Now that we know what the spectrum consists of, we can then compare various window films and see what all those numbers mean. Most quality window films reject 98%-99% of UVA, which causes sunburn, cataracts, skin cancer, wrinkles, etc. Now onto VIS (visible light) - when searching for window film, you would look at a film's VLT (Visible Light Transmission) to determine the amount of light transmitting through the glass with the film. The higher the percentage, the lighter the film. For example, the Tesla windshield is at 73%-75% VLT.
Next number to analyze, is IR. Now IR can be misleading as most window film manufacturers do not post at which range (between 780-2500nm) is it rejecting the posted IR rejection numbers. Many companies in China, Taiwan, and Korea use the highest IR rejection number at the lower range between 800-900nm. This can be deceiving as the higher range is what truly matters in a window film's performance. A good number used to compare a window film's performance is TSER (Total Solar Energy Rejection) - naturally the higher this #, the better the window film's performance.
Choosing a quality window film is only half the battle. Choose your installer wisely. Good film with a bad installation can ruin your experience with the product. Some things to focus on when searching window film companies:
1. experience - how long have they been in business? 2nd, how long have they been installing window film - some companies have been in business for many years, but only have started window film for a short period of time.
2. reviews - this is obvious, but do an extensive search and seek out references.
3. look at the work in person - quality window film companies would not hesitate to show you their work in person
4. is the company outsourcing their window tint services? Many companies do this and do not do it in-house. You may be able to save a buck or two going straight to the window film installer.
Hope this helps everyone!
First and foremost, to understand window film, we need to better understand solar radiation
The Solar Spectrum consists of UV, Visible Light, and IR. Below is a breakdown of the 3:
*UV (Ultraviolet)- 300-380nm, which accounts for approximately 3%
*VIS (Visible Light) - 380-780nm, which accounts for approximately 47%
*NIR - (Near Infrared) - 780-2500nm, which accounts for approximately 52%-53%
Now that we know what the spectrum consists of, we can then compare various window films and see what all those numbers mean. Most quality window films reject 98%-99% of UVA, which causes sunburn, cataracts, skin cancer, wrinkles, etc. Now onto VIS (visible light) - when searching for window film, you would look at a film's VLT (Visible Light Transmission) to determine the amount of light transmitting through the glass with the film. The higher the percentage, the lighter the film. For example, the Tesla windshield is at 73%-75% VLT.
Next number to analyze, is IR. Now IR can be misleading as most window film manufacturers do not post at which range (between 780-2500nm) is it rejecting the posted IR rejection numbers. Many companies in China, Taiwan, and Korea use the highest IR rejection number at the lower range between 800-900nm. This can be deceiving as the higher range is what truly matters in a window film's performance. A good number used to compare a window film's performance is TSER (Total Solar Energy Rejection) - naturally the higher this #, the better the window film's performance.
Choosing a quality window film is only half the battle. Choose your installer wisely. Good film with a bad installation can ruin your experience with the product. Some things to focus on when searching window film companies:
1. experience - how long have they been in business? 2nd, how long have they been installing window film - some companies have been in business for many years, but only have started window film for a short period of time.
2. reviews - this is obvious, but do an extensive search and seek out references.
3. look at the work in person - quality window film companies would not hesitate to show you their work in person
4. is the company outsourcing their window tint services? Many companies do this and do not do it in-house. You may be able to save a buck or two going straight to the window film installer.
Hope this helps everyone!
I'm picking up my baby today and driving it straight to get tinted. I got quoted $495 for Huper Optik Ceramic for all windows (30%) except for front windshield. The front windshield (70%) is an additional $300. From what I'm seeing on the forums, it seems like a good solid deal and I've seen their work... Never had the front tinted before, so I'm excited to feel the difference on my frequent trips from Sunny SoCal to blistering Las Vegas. Will post picture pre and post tint.
Premier Mobile
Former Vendor
I want it to be a bit more darker on the windshield than photosync 75. I'm not worried about the legality. In central cali, ton of people have tinted windshields, but I still dont want it to look too dark. I've seen a ton of pics with 65 and 55 on the side windows, but thats at a straight angle and it really makes an difference. You can see that people who put 35 on the rear hatch it looks much darker than the 35 on the passenger window, for that reason. So has anyone done 65 or 55 on the front windshield and tell me their thoughts. Any Pics would be awesomely appreciated... many thanks...
Im talking about photosync specifically so no tinting arguments please
Here's a Pagani done with Spectra 55 on the windshield - not done by us, by Fresh Window Tint in Southern California.
https://www.facebook.com/PrestigeFilmTechnologies/photos/pcb.852464061485645/852463141485737/?type=1&theater
trialcritic
Member
How long does it take for the car photosync? Do you have to drop the car off and pick it later?
Premier Mobile
Former Vendor
Premier Mobile
Former Vendor
We would like to post up our test results for another window film - CeraLuxe Quantum Ceramic. As always, we like to show objectively test results as these are the best way for members here to see what their options are. CeraLuxe (CLX) is made by the same manufacturer as PhotoSync - Prestige Film Technologies. We have been waiting for a long time for a quality window film manufacturer to come out with a reliable ceramic based film, and based on the following criteria, we believe Prestige made an exceptional tint:
1. Product clarity - both adhesive and base material is very clear with little to no orange peel texture
2. Shades available - 73%, 45%, 33%, and 20% (finally they made a 20% product because PhotoSync stops at 35%)
3. Performance - shy of PhotoSync by approximately 8%-10%, this is strong performing product that compares well to other top end films on the market
Photo 2 - Spectrum Analyzer for IRR (infrared radiation rejection)
900-1000nm - rejects 96% of IR
780-1700nm - rejects 93% of IR
*only a 3% variance between the two whereas 3M Crystalline 40 goes from 98% down to 85%
Photo 1 - you can see that the film rejects 99% of UV and has a net VLT (visible light transmission) rating of 42%.
**Note regarding the Spectrum Analyzer - runs with patented technology to analyze films with pinpoint accuracy while measuring with NFRC 300 rating standards.
Most Spectra PhotoSync Dealers should have access to CeraLuxe, so if you are not near us, contact your nearest Spectra Dealer.
1. Product clarity - both adhesive and base material is very clear with little to no orange peel texture
2. Shades available - 73%, 45%, 33%, and 20% (finally they made a 20% product because PhotoSync stops at 35%)
3. Performance - shy of PhotoSync by approximately 8%-10%, this is strong performing product that compares well to other top end films on the market
Photo 2 - Spectrum Analyzer for IRR (infrared radiation rejection)
900-1000nm - rejects 96% of IR
780-1700nm - rejects 93% of IR
*only a 3% variance between the two whereas 3M Crystalline 40 goes from 98% down to 85%
Photo 1 - you can see that the film rejects 99% of UV and has a net VLT (visible light transmission) rating of 42%.
**Note regarding the Spectrum Analyzer - runs with patented technology to analyze films with pinpoint accuracy while measuring with NFRC 300 rating standards.
Most Spectra PhotoSync Dealers should have access to CeraLuxe, so if you are not near us, contact your nearest Spectra Dealer.
Attachments
Please pardon the interruption
Hey guys, I'm not (yet) a Tesla owner, I came here for PhotoSync. I hope it's alright to ask some questions. Before I get started, I want to say that I'm (for the most part) pleasantly impressed with the quality of discourse in this thread, it makes me want to own a Tesla at some point even more.
I'm considering getting PS on my BMW F30 (current 3-Series sedan). First, some observations from driving ~200k miles w/ FormulaOne 30 (not sure which, it was installed 9 years ago) on a different car:
Now here's what I'm looking for in the tint on the BMW
Given all of that, I'm thinking:
Windshield PS75
Fronts PS65
Rears PS55 (or PS45?)
Back PS45 or PS35
Thinking a smooth gradient will reduce visual difference between fronts and rears.
Thoughts? Fronts need to be PS65 -- do you guys think front 65/rear 45 would look ok?
A few questions:
I've been quoted a good-compared-to-others-on-this-thread price, but it's still a pretty penny, about twice what the next highest-end solution would cost. The main attraction of PS is being protected while going lighter to be close to legal on fronts in CA. Now, I've driven the car w/ F1 30% in LA for 6+ months, and all over the state of CA, and never once I had an issue; I've found cops are reasonable and if you're not doing something stupid regarding/not regarding tint (as in, never stopped me). Now, another advantage of going with something cheaper is if I do get a fix it I'll be throwing away less money by ripping off the fronts. Other options would be F1 Pinnacle/Llumar CTX/3M Crystalline/Huper Optik, I don't think anyone in FLA is doing CeraLuxe right now, that would be another option. I would love to go to Premier once in Cali but can't drive the car NO MO' like this
Sorry for long post, it started out short enough!
P.S. I've read about some visual distortions on windshields w/ PS75 because of the angle of the MS' glass. One thing that's nice about the F30 is that the windshield is quite vertical, coming from a regular car it gives the impression of a tiny roadster windshield. I'm hoping this is an advantage as it relates to visual clarity once PS75 is applied as any distortion would annoy me to no end.
Hey guys, I'm not (yet) a Tesla owner, I came here for PhotoSync. I hope it's alright to ask some questions. Before I get started, I want to say that I'm (for the most part) pleasantly impressed with the quality of discourse in this thread, it makes me want to own a Tesla at some point even more.
I'm considering getting PS on my BMW F30 (current 3-Series sedan). First, some observations from driving ~200k miles w/ FormulaOne 30 (not sure which, it was installed 9 years ago) on a different car:
- no problem during the day, at dusk or at night
- exception: when making 90 degree left turn from a stop at night on a dark street, if there is a person crossing the street, may not see them
- the privacy of dark windows is nice
- I cry like a baby when driving an untinted car in South Florida any month other than January and February. During Jan/Feb, I cry like a grown man
- I tint all our cars, and my wife has come to appreciate and value tint as well
- never tinted windshield before, no experience; am of opinion that anything other than AB80 or comparable (i.e. PS75, anything minimal) is a really bad idea
Now here's what I'm looking for in the tint on the BMW
- my primary concern is heat reduction
- secondary concern is light reduction, primarily in the back (baby stares out back window)
- look on the car is somewhat important, don't want it to look weird, as I think 35% rears/65% fronts would. car looks very clean (can link pic if anyone interested) and don't want to mess it up -- uniform tint usually, IMO, improves the look; I'd like to at least not make it look bad. I'm tinting for utility/functionality.
- would like to go lighter to make visual difference between the darker rears and almost-CA-legal fronts less
Given all of that, I'm thinking:
Windshield PS75
Fronts PS65
Rears PS55 (or PS45?)
Back PS45 or PS35
Thinking a smooth gradient will reduce visual difference between fronts and rears.
Thoughts? Fronts need to be PS65 -- do you guys think front 65/rear 45 would look ok?
A few questions:
- I have a self-dimming rearview mirror -- would a PS35 tint on rear glass stop it from functioning?
- Tint on windshield: someone asked, didn't see a response -- what about required stickers? Florida doesn't require any stickers, does CA? I know NY & NJ do.
- Tint on windshield: what about suction cups? I currently have too many - phone holder, radar detector, SunPass. I can probably eliminate the first 2, but not the last.
I've been quoted a good-compared-to-others-on-this-thread price, but it's still a pretty penny, about twice what the next highest-end solution would cost. The main attraction of PS is being protected while going lighter to be close to legal on fronts in CA. Now, I've driven the car w/ F1 30% in LA for 6+ months, and all over the state of CA, and never once I had an issue; I've found cops are reasonable and if you're not doing something stupid regarding/not regarding tint (as in, never stopped me). Now, another advantage of going with something cheaper is if I do get a fix it I'll be throwing away less money by ripping off the fronts. Other options would be F1 Pinnacle/Llumar CTX/3M Crystalline/Huper Optik, I don't think anyone in FLA is doing CeraLuxe right now, that would be another option. I would love to go to Premier once in Cali but can't drive the car NO MO' like this
Sorry for long post, it started out short enough!
P.S. I've read about some visual distortions on windshields w/ PS75 because of the angle of the MS' glass. One thing that's nice about the F30 is that the windshield is quite vertical, coming from a regular car it gives the impression of a tiny roadster windshield. I'm hoping this is an advantage as it relates to visual clarity once PS75 is applied as any distortion would annoy me to no end.
ra-san
Member
So all I can do is give you my observations - but these are subjective things. My view of what looks ok may not be yours. I did have the same goals and idea though (as have many others on the other tinting threads too).
I did Photosync in basically that tint selection for the different windows. I may have done 55 on the frontside windows and 35 on the backside window - I can't recall and can't find my card that says at the moment. I'd intended 65/55 but they really weren't very dark at all (I wasn't looking for dark - was afraid of too dark actually, but 55 was barely noticeably different than 65, and 35 still wasn't particularly dark, especially for a rear window). It looks pretty smooth, windshield to fronts to rears to hatch and panoramic roof. I like it and would do it over again in a heartbeat. I haven't had anyone tell me it looks glaringly mismatched, and it doesn't to my eyes, but again it's subjective, no accounting for taste and all that.
My self-dimming rearview still works through the 35 on the rear, no issues - though the view itself is pretty dark at that point. Definitely no glare issues
Required stickers on the inside… well, you can put them on the film. Wouldn't count on getting them off it without pulling the film. Wouldn't worry about the film affecting the look of the stickers. You could also apply the film over the stickers and if you want, do a cutout. Have no experience with what would be better personally, though if the stickers were permanent, I'd probably want them on the film with no cutting around them.
Suction cups… Eliminate what you can
But they'll work. Maybe Premier or another installer will answer definitively, but if the tint is properly applied and it's given time to dry, then I doubt that any normal suction cup would be an issue in terms of causing separation of glass and film.I have Llumar AirBlue 80 all around, including windshield, on my 550. It's perfect. Suction cup, tags ok (but no inspection sticker here). It does have a very slight grey/blue tinge to it, which works on that car (it's Imperial Blue). I realize that's not the brand you're asking, but it's a fair guess results will be the same.
Actually, I mention the AirBlue and its color as I came to this thread looking for comments on it, and red Tesla Model S. That's what I'm considering for my new car, but I'm worried bluish tint on red car won't look good, and I can't find a Photosync installer around here.
Actually, I mention the AirBlue and its color as I came to this thread looking for comments on it, and red Tesla Model S. That's what I'm considering for my new car, but I'm worried bluish tint on red car won't look good, and I can't find a Photosync installer around here.
Mrav8tr
Paint Protection Film Crystalline Window Tint
MasterShield installs 3M Crystalline, 3M & Xpel Paint Protection Film to all Tesla.
Tinting Windows and Windshield. Paint Protection Film from Front Protection to Full Car coverage.
Tinting Windows and Windshield. Paint Protection Film from Front Protection to Full Car coverage.
Welcome to the forum. I'm an avid Photosnch user and have had it on our 1st Tesla (67k miles) with 75 on the windscreen and 35 everywhere else. I don't think you can be disappointed with photosynch with any shade as it is a signficant difference compared to my other cars. My BMW has huper and I can feel a difference everytime I drive it. On our 2nd MS, we had the same gradient done as well.
*no issues with auto dimming mirror
*no personal experience with suction cups, but the dealer did apply a service sticker to my windscreen and that came off just fine.
If you are serious about getting something that will stay light and keep your car much cooler don't bother considering anything else.
*no issues with auto dimming mirror
*no personal experience with suction cups, but the dealer did apply a service sticker to my windscreen and that came off just fine.
If you are serious about getting something that will stay light and keep your car much cooler don't bother considering anything else.
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