MPP AWD/Performance Coilover Impression and Installation

[Tim@adonisdetail]

Finally got our MPP coilovers installed, absolutely in love with the look and performance. The car now feels like a proper sports car:

 

[dfwatt]

Yes, the trailing arm is much easier. You need to loosen the brace to have enough room for the bolt to slide out, this is part of MPP's instruction.

Sorry to bother you again but this is where I'm stuck. I cannot get enough torque due to awkward angles to get the subframe (brace) bolts to loosen. Maybe they are over torqued. Does this mean that without loosening that bracket I will not have enough space to slide the bolt all the way out on the upper portion of the longer trailing arm? If so I may be stuck.

If I put a socket extender at the end of the bolt it measures plenty of distance before it runs into the subframe assembly, although I can't be absolutely sure that with the stocky 18 mm Bolt end coming out that way that in fact it will have enough space.

So I wonder whether based on your experience loosening that subframe is absolutely necessary? Obviously a worst-case scenario would be getting the thing half apart and then not being able to get it back together. I assume car would not be drivable without that trailing arm properly located.

 

[MountainPass]

View attachment 522455 View attachment 522454

Sorry to bother you again but this is where I'm stuck. I cannot get enough torque due to awkward angles to get the subframe (brace) bolts to loosen. Maybe they are over torqued. Does this mean that without loosening that bracket I will not have enough space to slide the bolt all the way out on the upper portion of the longer trailing arm? If so I may be stuck.

If I put a socket extender at the end of the bolt it measures plenty of distance before it runs into the subframe assembly, although I can't be absolutely sure that with the stocky 18 mm Bolt end coming out that way that in fact it will have enough space.

So I wonder whether based on your experience loosening that subframe is absolutely necessary? Obviously a worst-case scenario would be getting the thing half apart and then not being able to get it back together. I assume car would not be drivable without that trailing arm properly located.

I would definitely remove the undertray and that bracket, then loosen just the one point of the subframe so you can drop it down a bit. It only takes a few extra minutes and will make your life 10x easier!

 

[beastmode13]

View attachment 522455 View attachment 522454

Sorry to bother you again but this is where I'm stuck. I cannot get enough torque due to awkward angles to get the subframe (brace) bolts to loosen. Maybe they are over torqued. Does this mean that without loosening that bracket I will not have enough space to slide the bolt all the way out on the upper portion of the longer trailing arm? If so I may be stuck.

If I put a socket extender at the end of the bolt it measures plenty of distance before it runs into the subframe assembly, although I can't be absolutely sure that with the stocky 18 mm Bolt end coming out that way that in fact it will have enough space.

So I wonder whether based on your experience loosening that subframe is absolutely necessary? Obviously a worst-case scenario would be getting the thing half apart and then not being able to get it back together. I assume car would not be drivable without that trailing arm properly located.

Humm. With the underbody aero cover removed, you should have clear access to the three bolts on the subframe bracket. I'll DM you with the illustrations. I just followed instructions posted @MountainPass website.

 

[dfwatt]

I would definitely remove the undertray and that bracket, then loosen just the one point of the subframe so you can drop it down a bit. It only takes a few extra minutes and will make your life 10x easier!

I'm assuming that bracket has to come down to allow a little bit of extra room for the wider bolt end of that long Bolt to have space to be pulled out? Is that right?

 

[Skione65]

Finally got our MPP coilovers installed, absolutely in love with the look and performance. The car now feels like a proper sports car:

@Tim@adonisdetail,

Do you have spacers on that? Looks hella flush. More than standard. Maybe it’s just the drop?

Ski

 

[Tim@adonisdetail]

@Tim@adonisdetail,

Do you have spacers on that? Looks hella flush. More than standard. Maybe it’s just the drop?

Ski

Yes I do, 20mm front 25mm rear

 

[vogz]

Yes I do, 20mm front 25mm rear

What size and brand/model tire are you running? Any rubbing? Looks fantastic.

 

[Skione65]

Finally got our MPP coilovers installed, absolutely in love with the look and performance. The car now feels like a proper sports car:

@Tim@adonisdetail,

Not to drift but what’s your average energy consumption currently with that setup (I.e. Lowered MPP and the 20/25 spacers)? Looking at doing the same on my M3P+. I’m running 20’s with PS4s summer and 20’s with PA4s winter.

Ski

 

[darnelli]

is that a 20'' OEM wheel (offset is +35)?

so you run 20mm spacer front and 25mm spacer rear on +35 wheels front/back?

looks great!

Yes I do, 20mm front 25mm rear

 

[Tim@adonisdetail]

What size and brand/model tire are you running? Any rubbing? Looks fantastic.

Same as stock, Michelin PS4S, no rubbing or bottoming out. The coilovers are a huge improvement over stock suspension that would bottom out with any hard bump.

@Tim@adonisdetail,

Not to drift but what’s your average energy consumption currently with that setup (I.e. Lowered MPP and the 20/25 spacers)? Looking at doing the same on my M3P+. I’m running 20’s with PS4s summer and 20’s with PA4s winter.

Ski

I dont know the exact difference between before/after but It feels like energy consumption is the same if not better than before. The entire height of the vehicle is now about 1.7" lower than stock so the frontal surface area has been lowered pretty significantly.

is that a 20'' OEM wheel (offset is +35)?

so you run 20mm spacer front and 25mm spacer rear on +35 wheels front/back?

looks great!

Yea stock 20" wheel, not sure the exact offset.

 

[Tim@adonisdetail]

A few pics from the installation:

 

[beastmode13]

A few pics from the installation:

It’s nice to see all the parts spread out.

Yellow caliper looks great. Looks like it was spray painted without removing it from the car.

 

[DrZoidberg]

Riddle me this, why do the MPP instructions say to remove the OEM bump rubber and dust boot from the rear shock? They come with these as new components right?

 

[dfwatt]

Riddle me this, why do the MPP instructions say to remove the OEM bump rubber and dust boot from the rear shock? They come with these as new components right?

Yes. You can see this in the picture of the various kits on their website.

 

[DrZoidberg]

Anybody running just slightly below stock m3p height, like .5"? What is your rear spring perch measurement according to the MPP instructions. I assume greater than 18 mm.

 

[MountainPass]

Riddle me this, why do the MPP instructions say to remove the OEM bump rubber and dust boot from the rear shock? They come with these as new components right?

That wording is confusing. We wanted to make sure people don't use those components, but let's update that now to be more clear!

 

[N54TT]

Riddle me this, why do the MPP instructions say to remove the OEM bump rubber and dust boot from the rear shock? They come with these as new components right?

That wording is confusing. We wanted to make sure people don't use those components, but let's update that now to be more clear!

The dust cover is actually one of things I don’t like about the MPP coilovers. In all the pics I see there is always a decent amount of the piston rod showing...which I would presume predisposes it collecting dirt/sand. On the UPP and Redwood they use rubber accordion dust covers that cover and protect the entire piston rod. Any reason for using the sleeve vs rubber accordion? What holds the sleeve up when the shock is extended? In the pics of the rear it looks as if the dust cover is even sitting on top of the shock body and not really covering the piston rod at all. would think it should cover the bump stop as well no?

 

[MountainPass]

The dust cover is actually one of things I don’t like about the MPP coilovers. In all the pics I see there is always a decent amount of the piston rod showing...which I would presume predisposes it collecting dirt/sand. On the UPP and Redwood they use rubber accordion dust covers that cover and protect the entire piston rod. Any reason for using the sleeve vs rubber accordion? What holds the sleeve up when the shock is extended? In the pics of the rear it looks as if the dust cover is even sitting on top of the shock body and not really covering the piston rod at all. would think it should cover the bump stop as well no?

At ride height the piston rod is not exposed, you may be looking at photos of the coilovers at droop or uninstalled. Most aftermarket and offroad suspension do not use a rubber accordion like that. Ultimately the seal is responsible for keeping out dirt and debris. If you live in an area where this is a concern, there are readily available aftermarket solutions such as universal accordion boots and even some neoprene styles!

 

[DrZoidberg]

That wording is confusing. We wanted to make sure people don't use those components, but let's update that now to be more clear!

Makes sense now. You mean to remove those from the OEM top hat, so that you end up using just the hat. The dust boot and bump rubber can be stuck on the hat. Now back to my rear ride height question...