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NEMA 14-50 quotes

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Right under panel is under $50 in parts. I got an RV box, a 50a breaker (make sure right type for panel), 6ga wire, and some flex conduit. It was simple. If your not electricity aware, I wouldn't do it though.

I'm having it 'redone' by an electrician, I need a permitted installation to get the EV rates here. Permit cost is $200, plus electrician...
 
If I can borrow your Tesla, I will do it.
Wow! Didn't know parts were that pricey. I called an electrician I found on Yelp with google keyword search for "best electrician in Las Vegas." (Don't judge me :p). Called him - asked for quote - he said b/w 300-350. I have the breaker box in my garage and they installed the outlet adjacent to the box - bill came out to $350 - parts included in that fee.

I sent him the guide for the Nema 14-50 (as a precaution). He was well aware of the 50 Amp breaker, 6ga wire, copper wire (not aluminum), and my concerns on top or low ground.

I called a couple of people after the first guy - but they wanted to come out to my home to inspect and quote. Went with first guy and it was done in less than 20 minutes.
 
thinking about hiring someone to install a NEMA 14-50 in my garage where my panel box is located and wanting to get a ball park idea what I should be expecting to pay. I've heard don't use the tesla recommendations... I'm in the Tacoma Washington area
Evergreen State Electric did quality work for me a couple years ago. My install was a bit more complicated, with a long conduit run from the box to the outlet that took two workers to install correctly, but their pricing was reasonable (a little over $500, not including permits which were another $70+ or so at the time).

I've had issues with extremely particular inspectors in Puyallup who found issues that my contractors had never had questioned in the past, but Evergreen State Electric passed the first time, with no concerns, and even pointed out a few things they'd been extra cautious on based on past experience in the area. I hope they've kept that level of service.
 
Assuming you are installing a 50 AMP circuit, I believe you need #6 copper. Aluminum might be an option, but I don't like the aluminum stuff.
You need two hot, one neutral (common) and a ground.
I had to go outside from fuse box and then back into structure. For this run, I used 6-3 UF from fuse box into junction box located in garage. From junction box, ran three individual #6 wires and #10 ground to NEMA plug via 3/4 ridged thin-wall conduit.

Splices are accomplished using insulated splice per line.

Disclaimer: I'm not an electrician. I strongly recommend you consult your local building codes.
 
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I did an easy 14-50 surface install next to my surface mounted panel box. A local electrician who lives in my neighborhood charged me about $150 for parts and labor. Wire for the run was about three feet, 6 gauge of course, in 3/4 inch metal conduit. A flush mount inside a wall might be a bit more expensive but my garage walls are concrete so it wasn't an option.

I run the UMC cable along the ceiling on bicycle hooks so that it is out of the way and off the floor, which gets very dirty in winter:
Model S in garage1665edsf 4-16-16.jpg
 
I did an easy 14-50 surface install next to my surface mounted panel box. A local electrician who lives in my neighborhood charged me about $150 for parts and labor. Wire for the run was about three feet, 6 gauge of course, in 3/4 inch metal conduit. A flush mount inside a wall might be a bit more expensive but my garage walls are concrete so it wasn't an option.

I run the UMC cable along the ceiling on bicycle hooks so that it is out of the way and off the floor, which gets very dirty in winter:
View attachment 249986
Lol, I wish that's where my panel was. All you have to do is park nose in. I'm actually planning to run 14-50 where you're panel is. This way, I can have both Tesla nose in ( one in garage, one in drive way) and charge both of them. Of course, I have have to wait for m3 and mY deliveries :)
 
For what it's worth, I was quoted close to $1,000 from the Tesla recommended electrical companies. I asked the facility maintenance folks at the company I work at and they said it should be no more than 200-300 bucks when done by a certified electrician.

For about $1,000 I had an electrician run a cable underground and under the sidewalk (about 50 feet in all) to power my portable outdoor curbside charger. The Tesla recommended companies tend to be very expensive. What extras do they provide? A professional electrician is a professional electrician, whether he or she has the Tesla stamp of approval.
 
I paid to have the plug put in about 2 feet from elec.panel. I had a 50 amp breaker in the box for a hot tub that was no longer used. They couldn't use my breaker because it was GFI so they supplied a new one. I ended up paying about $200. I had quotes of $500+ so I guess I got off easy. I would sooner try to do surgery on my own spine than install a 50 amp breaker and plug.
 
Lots of folks in here say "do it yourself" but unless you're comfortable with it, it's definitely NOT something you should try based on just watching a youtube video IMHO.
I used a tesla-recommended electrician. Guy was fantastic to deal with, did the install for $500 and I paid for permits separately. It was a 10' run from my basement to the outside of my house. Was done professionally and cleanly. And when I changed my mind and wanted a HPWC instead, he swapped it for me.
 

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please share wire type (nm-b?) and conduit info/specs, links, any and all useful info. still trying to wrap my head around doing a 45 foot run myself.


No idea as to specifics. The conduit appears to be grey 1 1/2 inch PVC with clamps at intervals. The wire looked hefty but I don't know type or gauge. The wire was run from the box inside the wall to the ceiling, then inside conduit around the ceiling to the location where the receptacle was to be installed, then inside the wall to the receptacle. It took about an hour, most of which was installing conduit with two right angle corners.
 
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No idea as to specifics. The conduit appears to be grey 1 1/2 inch PVC with clamps at intervals. The wire looked hefty but I don't know type or gauge. The wire was run from the box inside the wall to the ceiling, then inside conduit around the ceiling to the location where the receptacle was to be installed, then inside the wall to the receptacle. It took about an hour, most of which was installing conduit with two right angle corners.

Based on NEC code, this is the current conduit fill table
Conduit Fill Table - Resources

for the 14-50 plug, you should be using qty 3-6 gauge cable, black, red, white and 1-10 gauge ground cable- green.
so min conduit size is 3/4 no matter which type of conduit you plan to use, rigid, pvc, or flex.
you need to support that conduit 12" from any connectors and about every 6'.

The cable is 6 gauge for the hots and neutral, and 10 gauge for the ground. You can either run all single strand gauge cables in conduit or get 6/3 THHN cable which has it all inside insulation. Its pretty much comparable in price depending on the length of run.

outside that, your panel needs to be able to support 40 additional amps continuous.

if your house only has 100amps coming in, which most houses are, there is very little room for you to add another 40amp load. This is the hardest part about the installation. Its not really the wire, breaker, conduit, or receptacle. Its understanding your electric usage and calculating your electric load as to not overload your panel and wiring. This is why electricians charge what they do. Anyone can pull wire and follow NEC code.

So if you dont fully understand what you are doing, spend the money and hire an electrician. Its not expensive, and it prevents your house from burning down. More importantly it prevents harm and injury to you and your loved ones. You do not want to electrocute yourself to save $500, thats just not smart.
 
Based on NEC code, this is the current conduit fill table
Conduit Fill Table - Resources

for the 14-50 plug, you should be using qty 3-6 gauge cable, black, red, white and 1-10 gauge ground cable- green.
so min conduit size is 3/4 no matter which type of conduit you plan to use, rigid, pvc, or flex.
you need to support that conduit 12" from any connectors and about every 6'.

The cable is 6 gauge for the hots and neutral, and 10 gauge for the ground. You can either run all single strand gauge cables in conduit or get 6/3 THHN cable which has it all inside insulation. Its pretty much comparable in price depending on the length of run.

outside that, your panel needs to be able to support 40 additional amps continuous.

if your house only has 100amps coming in, which most houses are, there is very little room for you to add another 40amp load. This is the hardest part about the installation. Its not really the wire, breaker, conduit, or receptacle. Its understanding your electric usage and calculating your electric load as to not overload your panel and wiring. This is why electricians charge what they do. Anyone can pull wire and follow NEC code.

So if you dont fully understand what you are doing, spend the money and hire an electrician. Its not expensive, and it prevents your house from burning down. More importantly it prevents harm and injury to you and your loved ones. You do not want to electrocute yourself to save $500, thats just not smart.

This is helpful but I've seen this page and still missing nm-b wire table. Any idea?
 
What conduit and size do I need for nm-b 6/3? I have a 45 foot run and 6 feet needs to be along brick wall so had to be in conduit.

from : 6-3 W/G NM-B Wire Black the cable is 0.62 inch (not sure if flattish or round).
Conduit max fill for one cable per http://ce.superioressex.com/uploade...guidelines/TG16-Conduit-Fill-Requirements.pdf is 53%.
So, worst case pi*(0.62/2)^2/0.53 = 0.57 required cross section.
2*sqrt(0.57/pi)=0.85 inner diameter
So one inch diameter should work for your 6 ft sleeve, but verify for yourself.