Preparing for your Model S: Selecting outlet, Solar City, etc.

[Darmok]

Turning it over may be easier said than done. The wire is very thick and difficult to bend, and if the wire comes in the box from the bottom it won't be just a matter of flipping the outlet over. I would think that the electrician should come back and handle that. If the homeowner does pull off the cover, at least make sure the circuit is off at the box.


P5265 Grey/Grey 60 kWH supercharging, air suspension, sound and tech packages
XP2065

 

[FlasherZ]

The normal way to install a 14-50 is with the "round" hole up. I'd be kind of nervous about the rest of the set up if the electrician mounted it upside down.

I'm not that concerned/nervous. Outlet orientation over the years has changed and has been the preference of the electrician. Personally, I mount outlets so that the safety ground pin is at the top -- that way if the plug gets pried out top-to-bottom, the hot terminals aren't exposed before the plug is nearly out. My machine shop was installed this way. However, my home was built with the ground pin down.

There is no code that defines this, and it is really up to the electrician. I wouldn't worry.

 

[jerry33]

I'm not that concerned/nervous. Outlet orientation over the years has changed and has been the preference of the electrician. Personally, I mount outlets so that the safety ground pin is at the top -- that way if the plug gets pried out top-to-bottom, the hot terminals aren't exposed before the plug is nearly out. My machine shop was installed this way. However, my home was built with the ground pin down.

There is no code that defines this, and it is really up to the electrician. I wouldn't worry.

Okay, All the diagrams I have seen show the round hole up, so I thought that was the standard way.

 

[FlasherZ]

Turning it over may be easier said than done. The wire is very thick and difficult to bend, and if the wire comes in the box from the bottom it won't be just a matter of flipping the outlet over. I would think that the electrician should come back and handle that. If the homeowner does pull off the cover, at least make sure the circuit is off at the box.

For what it's worth, while #6 is thick, I wouldn't call it "difficult" to bend. As to wiring coming into the box from the bottom vs. the top, if there isn't enough wiring to flip the receptacle, then your electrician isn't qualified. The code requires a reasonable wiring slack, and as wiring is inserted into the back of the receptacle, the maximum difference in length will be about 1.5 to 2 inches. 9 times out of 10, garage wiring will come from the top because the garage is a slab (and the OP noted a run through the attic).

I would feel confident telling the OP (or any reasonable homeowner) to turn the breaker off, take the screws out, and reorient the outlet. Of course, if they're nervous, and the electrician will come out to do it for free, by all means have them do it.

- - - Updated - - -

Okay, All the diagrams I have seen show the round hole up, so I thought that was the standard way.

Surface-mount NEMA 14-50's generally have the conduit break-out on the ground-pin side. If your conduit comes from the bottom, you have to mount it ground-pin-down:
Surface-mount 14-50 receptacle

 

[Babylonfive]

For what it's worth, while #6 is thick, I wouldn't call it "difficult" to bend. As to wiring coming into the box from the bottom vs. the top, if there isn't enough wiring to flip the receptacle, then your electrician isn't qualified. The code requires a reasonable wiring slack, and as wiring is inserted into the back of the receptacle, the maximum difference in length will be about 1.5 to 2 inches. 9 times out of 10, garage wiring will come from the top because the garage is a slab (and the OP noted a run through the attic).

I would feel confident telling the OP (or any reasonable homeowner) to turn the breaker off, take the screws out, and reorient the outlet. Of course, if they're nervous, and the electrician will come out to do it for free, by all means have them do it.

Surface-mount NEMA 14-50's generally have the conduit break-out on the ground-pin side. If your conduit comes from the bottom, you have to mount it ground-pin-down:
Surface-mount 14-50 receptacle

Thanks for the feedback everyone. I'll swap it myself, and if its too tight I'll get them back. Great to have experts on here!

 

[FlasherZ]

Thanks for the feedback everyone. I'll swap it myself, and if its too tight I'll get them back. Great to have experts on here!

By the way, if I weren't able to invert the outlet for any reason I'd consider using 16-penny nails to support the UMC above the outlet, I'd drive two nails at a downward angle, just far enough apart to fit the cable through, so that the UMC unit can rest on them, then I'd drive two nails above it to hold the long portion of the cable exiting the UMC unit in place; maintain a good bend radius in the cable and use two more nails as stress relief to get the cord pointed downward again.

Given the diameter of the UMC cable, those spring clips that hold brooms would also work to secure the UMC in place above the outlet too, observe the same bend radius to get the cord pointed downward again.

 

[pete8314]

Just had 2 calls from Solarcity (having finalized yesterday). first call was to confirm basic details, and to arrange a longer call for a remote estimate. Second call was to say 'Sorry, we are no longer able to do any installs in Texas, so we'll send your details on to our partner, Mr Electric'.

I'm starting to feel that anyone in Texas that manages to take delivery of a Model S needs a special perseverance prize.

 

[mnx]

followup

Is there any reason I would want to do a 14-50 over a 6-50? It seems I could save a bit by having 1 less wire (since the HPWC only requires 2 wires + ground as well).

I figure putting in 3ga now while more expensive is a good idea incase i decide I need/want the HPWC later.

Thanks!

It depends on what your confidence level will be that you'll need >40A charging.

First, I'd forego the idea of using a 14-30 unless you're only going to do overnight charging and you don't anticipate starting your charges with anything less than 50% SOC.

For any needs > 50A (HPWC or 70A J1772 EVSE), you'll need to run conduit and use because you can't get NM-B cable in gauges greater than #6 AWG. C&W2G sells 160' of #3 for $185.60 (assuming 4 wires @ 40 ft each), plus the conduit (1 1/2") and fittings. You're probably looking at roughly $250-300.

Compare this to a 14-50 install... at Home Depot, a 50' roll of NM-B 6/3 runs $118.

Hope this helps make a decision.

Both wire sizes can be used in most 50 amp breakers, so if you install the #3 you can upgrade the breaker and receptacle later.

 

[FlasherZ]

Is there any reason I would want to do a 14-50 over a 6-50? It seems I could save a bit by having 1 less wire (since the HPWC only requires 2 wires + ground as well).

If you would ever figure on powering an RV from this outlet, or you might find yourself wanting to plug an electric stove/range into this at some point, you want a 14-50 because you'd require 120/240v. (I have acquaintances who plug in an electric range to their RV outlet during holiday seasons because they need extra cooking/baking power.)

Otherwise, a 6-50 is sufficient for most EV charging needs (just make sure if you buy an EVSE that you purchase a 240V one).

Given a small cost difference, I'll install 14-50's over 6-50's any day of the week and use legal adapter cords to create a 6-50 if I need one. Legal adapter cords don't exist in the opposite direction.

Given the cost of wire, I might suggest this: size your conduit (1.25") for #3 wire now but install only #6 in it. If you want the HPWC or a high-power EVSE in the future, use your old #6 to pull #3 wires.

 

[efusco]

Is there any reason I would want to do a 14-50 over a 6-50? It seems I could save a bit by having 1 less wire (since the HPWC only requires 2 wires + ground as well).

I figure putting in 3ga now while more expensive is a good idea incase i decide I need/want the HPWC later.

Thanks!

Since I was running the wire, I had both the 14-50 and the set up for the HPWC placed at the same time. I hope that someday we'll acquire a Model X or some other EV and anticipate needing to have 2 cars plugged in at once. My original plan, actually, was to have a single 100amp subpanel and a switch to go b/w the HPWC and the 14-50, but my electrician just did both with negligible increase in cost.

 

[markb1]

If you would ever figure on powering an RV from this outlet, or you might find yourself wanting to plug an electric stove/range into this at some point, you want a 14-50 because you'd require 120/240v. (I have acquaintances who plug in an electric range to their RV outlet during holiday seasons because they need extra cooking/baking power.)

It seems to me the more likely benefit is you can charge your car at RV parks with the same adapter as you use to charge at home. This is important because Tesla generally only includes one 240V adapter with the car.

 

[FlasherZ]

Since I was running the wire, I had both the 14-50 and the set up for the HPWC placed at the same time. I hope that someday we'll acquire a Model X or some other EV and anticipate needing to have 2 cars plugged in at once. My original plan, actually, was to have a single 100amp subpanel and a switch to go b/w the HPWC and the 14-50, but my electrician just did both with negligible increase in cost.

Evan, that's what I'm recommending to most. Run a 125A feeder to your garage, put up a small 4-pole subpanel, and then you can have up to an HPWC + 14-50 there. This is what I did in my garage.

 

[gregincal]

The normal way to install a 14-50 is with the "round" hole up. I'd be kind of nervous about the rest of the set up if the electrician mounted it upside down.

Interestingly, here is the picture from the Tesla Mobile Connector Owners manual:

 

[spleen]

Interestingly, here is the picture from the Tesla Mobile Connector Owners manual

I think that's just to show you what a 14-50 plug looks like. But the document from Tesla on preparation of your home for charging and installing the UMC / 14-50 outlet shows this:

 

[Johan]

OK, some European perspective (if anyone is interested). I just finished the build of a new 2 car garage. I dug down (in a protective 50mm plastic tube) a wire called PFSP with 4 wires, each 10 mm2 diameter (a robust, well insulated cabel that cost me 8000 NOK = $1400 for 50 meters). It's rated at 40A at up to 500V. My grid connection is the "old style" EU 3-phase meaning 230Vx3, no ground (the more modern being 400V 3 legs/phases + ground). So my cable is future proof . I'm hoping to be able to charge at 230Vx3x32A (if Tesla will support this) which would give me something like 12.7 kW which is probably more than needed.

 

[artsci]

Signed a contract with Solar City today for installation of solar panels on my townhouse in March. The installation will likely be complete by the time my Model S is delivered so I'll be running on sunshine from day one. That makes me very happy.

 

[xhawk101]

Signed a contract with Solar City today for installation of solar panels on my townhouse in March. The installation will likely be complete by the time my Model S is delivered so I'll be running on sunshine from day one. That makes me very happy.

Good taste, multicoat red now solar here too


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[Princeton96]

For those of you that need to install an outlet outside or in a carport, here are some pictures and a description of my installation. I only have access to a carport and the outlet needed to be attached to a fence that is not under the carport roof. Based on a recommendation I received from a member of this forum, I purchased a Midwest Electric model U054 outdoor 15-40 receptacle. I had my electrician install it and it was a fairly simple process.

The door of the receptacle doesn't close all the way with the connector plugged in. That didn't surprise me, because the adaptor is pretty huge. However, we had a huge rain storm here last night and the outlet and the plug remained completely dry. The cover acts as a rain shield, even when it's not closed all the way. No issues at all with having the cord in the elements. The car and the charge port on the car are fully covered by the roof, so only the receptacle is out in the open.

Here are a couple of pictures. I did the painting and added the decal.

 

[aaron.s]

Thanks for posting this!

I purchased this same outdoor outlet a week ago and will be having a friend install it in early January.
I've never seen a picture of it with the UMC plugged in and was wondering about how good it would protect against the rain. Glad to see that it acts as a rain shield since it is able to come down a bit from the fully open position.

By the way -- love your nice touch of painting it green and putting a Tesla decal on it!

Aaron

 

[Al Sherman]

Ok all you smart people. I don't know anything about, or ever mess with anything that can electrocute me or burn down the house. I'm getting the HPWC and twin chargers. I want to be able to get the max performance (miles of charge per hour) from the system. My electrician is going to stop by thi week for a heads up planning session. I know nothing.
What specifically do I tell him I need (when all is said and done) for my HPWC? Thanks in advance. I'm gonna print out what yo tell me.