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Hahaa that’s me I keep wavering between a 2015 p85D or a new model 3P. P...is the key letter!Personally I would get the performance model. Not for any particular logical reason.
Hahahaha! Yes. Exactly!
Our rational side vs. our emotional side.
I'm trying to find a way to rationalize a way to change my order to a P.
But I know when I rationalize too much, all I get are rational lies!
Do you just pay Tesla with a debit/credit card when you wish the EAP unlock?Get the P easy decision ..since u are on the fence you can always add the software functions later ..EAP FSD the cams come with car regardless ..get aftermarket wheels...the P motors and whatever software tweak they do you can’t buy later
Get the P easy decision ..since u are on the fence you can always add the software functions later ..EAP FSD the cams come with car regardless ..get aftermarket wheels...the P motors and whatever software tweak they do you can’t buy later
...correct that was my point you won’t be able to buy the lot sorted motors or s/w later ......that’s why it’s best to get the P if on fence ...The P comes with the same motors the AWD does... they lot sort from the same parts bin, ,
yes you can pay that way thru your accountDo you just pay Tesla with a debit/credit card when you wish the EAP unlock?
That right there is a logical reason to get the Performance model! Woohoo!For many of us, the $7,500 tax credit overweight the color of the upholstery or desirable options.
Best reason to perhaps gamble on loosing the tax credit would be for people needing 4wd in snow country.
You're also paying for a bit extra testing up front and the warranty coverage, because uncorking is more wear thus risking damage within that first 120,000mi drive-train/battery warranty window.
I still get what you're talking about, though. Almost certainly a very large amount of margin in there for Tesla.
General warranty: 4 year (maximum 50,000 mile)What is the warranty on all Model 3's ?
Too many people speculate/think/assume Tesla might release a software to make it a P. The fact is only wheels/spoiler/brake are something you can get down the road with 101% certainty. Don’t bet or count on the software, let alone the lot sorted motor....correct that was my point you won’t be able to buy the lot sorted motors or s/w later ......that’s why it’s best to get the P if on fence ...
yes you can pay that way thru your account
Yeah I've been wrestling with this too. I keep looking at my loaded awd config and thinking "for a little more I could have a base performance" but it's really hard to mentally justify it when all you're getting for your 11k is faster delivery and better quality control on your motors. To me it seems like you're really spending 11k on an awd with a software performance limiter removed, which to me is just frustrating.
If they offered other mechanical differences/improvements it would be easier to justify.
I can see how the performance models are much higher margin for them. Costs them nothing to flip a software switch (that 11k is pure profit) but it makes me feel more like a sucker for paying it.
This is a narrative that's been playing recently on many threads. I don't believe however the folks thinking this way have engineering backgrounds. At least ee and me. If you believe the online calculators to propel a ~4000 lbs car 0-60 in 3.5 seconds you need over 700 hp. Going to let that sink in for a little as you think of other cars with 700 hp... Ok. Now lets talk about getting that power to the ground. The amps and thereby the cables alone are going to have to be thicker. The power electronics to generate the hp and torque needed have to be beefed up. The motor itself has to be able to take the energy dumped into it and not split in half. The S "p" models have special fuses to handle the large current. The rear motor is also bigger I believe.
If you think this is doable simply via software unlock I think you are fooling yourself. The physics of putting 700hp / 500 kw to the ground require otherwise.
Now the argument can be made that all awds come with all the upgraded electronics and mechanical parts. Tesla has done this before after all. Eg. Fsd hardware in all cars. Or 75kwh battery in s60 cars. Could be wrong here of course but I am doubtful they will eat that cost in every awd car hoping people will pay $11k so they can recoup their money down the road.
General warranty: 4 year (maximum 50,000 mile)
Powertrain/battery warranty: 8 year (max 100,000 mi for short range pack/ 120,000 mi for the long range pack)
Both batteries pack sizes are guaranteed minimum 70% of battery capacity retained....which isn't all that good in context that given Tesla's battery history it's quite likely that most batteries won't drop below about 90% in that time frame.
You've been looking at the wrong calculators if that's what they've been telling you. You only need ~450 hp to hit 3.5s 0-60 with a 4,000 lb. AWD direct-drive car. I imagine the P will have a bit more than that since Elon has said they can probably make it faster later.If you believe the online calculators to propel a ~4000 lbs car 0-60 in 3.5 seconds you need over 700 hp.
Have you looked at the Aeros with aero covers removed?
I think you just coppied my post from last weekSo I got a fully-loaded AWD with upgraded tires, EAP, and FSD with delivery date Sept-Nov.
That comes out to $63,500.
I am debating about changing my order to AWD P, white interior, without the performance package and just EAP without FSD. That comes out to $71,500.
With that, I may be able to get delivery in August. And with it, a possibility I'll get the full tax credit and not half with the AWD. But I know none of us are really sure about when the 200k mark was passed just yet.
Are any of you guys thinking of these two options?
I'm so annoyed that the AWP P only offers the nasty aeros and the $5k performance package with 20" wheels. I wish they offered just the 19"s. But I'm thinking I can get a new set $2-3k and either use the Aeros for long trips or just sell them.